Pleasure Dosing – The New Beauty Rapture

Photo: People Images

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation we have been tracking the beauty-as-empowerment trend, noting the elemental need for products that bring wellness through joy. A quick dopamine hit goes a long way in a post-crisis society, and consumers are discovering new ways in which to access pleasure through makeup and boldly express their individuality. 

 We’ve been following the upsurge in TikTokers creatively articulating a sense of unfiltered joy through bold and colorful looks applied with incredible artistry.  In recent months we have watched nail art grow from a niche into a mainstream form of self-expression, and we have traced the latest revolution of luxury color from understated to exaggerated.

 Consumers are Pleasure Dosing their way to wellness with products that approach the art of beauty as an act of self-expression. Brilliant neons, chameleonic colors, face stickers, nail art and body adornments - are all rising on the consumer radar. Spate data shows an uptick in searches for Glitter Eyeliner (+41,8%), Rhinestone Nails (+26,3%) and Eye Gems ( +38,4%). Bold lip and eye colors are also on the up - searches for Orange Lipstick are +161,6% and Green is up +38,2%. 

 Freed from restrictions there is a deep desire to revel in color and creativity, and use makeup as a tool of transformation. Brands must develop products that deliver an instant shot of happiness, and meet the demand for unrestrained glamor.

We see Pleasure Dosing developing in three distinct pathways: 

●      Dopamine Reality: Superbrights popped at NYFW, where designers played with autumn-winter conventions to deliver collections packed with saturated hues. There was brilliant yellow and citrus orange, Yves Klein blue and hot purple - colors that are resonating with pleasure-seeking consumers. Neon eyeliners, ultra-pigmented candy-colored lipsticks and punchy, one-swipe eye products can deliver the beauty dopamine hit that consumers are craving.

●      Luxury Reinvented: Consumers are creating an aesthetic diversion from the At Home lifestyle of the last two years. Mastering sophisticated looks with new beauty accents, inventive finishes and alluring enhancements, luxury is reinvented for the new “Age of Hedonism”. With searches for “Glam Makeup Look” up +76.3% (1), consumers are opting for saturated lip colours, glitter cut creases, high shimmer complexions and metallic chrome finishes - Studio 54 filtered through a Y2K lens. Features are enhanced and turned up to the max, with volumizing and plumping products that deliver ultimate sophistication and look-at-me moments. And as the masks come off, lips are once again the focus.

●      Festival of Fakery:  Freedom unleashes the beauty peacocks, who are taking the opportunity to express themselves with a maximalist’s approach armed with lavish adornments, including face stickers, body gems and false, embellished nails. This is the armory of pleasurable transformation, enabling consumers to creatively switch up their looks whenever the urge takes hold.  These products are also interesting in the context of an increasingly 2D, digitalized world, reintroducing three-dimensional color, opulence and texture into our daily lives. 

Don’t miss the conference/ workshop of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation at the MakeUp in Paris on June 16-17 (to be confirmed), 2022. In this conference, Leila Rochet, founder and Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, will decode the Pleasure Dosing trend and what it means for the industry, and share examples from the latest international launches. Leila will be joined by Julien Lutz of Spate, the partner company of the agency, who will share the latest market data from the Spate research tool.

Conference of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation with the participation of Spate.

Source: (1) Spate - Google Searches in the U.S. Year Over Year ending April 2022

Why the US is the land of luxury opportunity

Photo: Tanya Bernard

American consumers are in a flamboyant state of mind.  Since the pandemic, the US has made an impressive economic recovery, with Bloomberg confirming the country’s status as a global leader in luxury consumerism.  And according to Euromonitor’s Global Wealth and Luxury Report 2022, by 2030, the US will be home to the world’s largest population of high-net-worth individuals and ultra-high-net-worth individuals.

1- Revealing new luxuriant aspirations

Take inspiration from recent luxury launches, activations, and AW22 collections which capture the contemporary sophistication of the US luxurian.

Photo Credit: Oscar de la Renta / Tom Ford

• Overt Wealth: How do you show the world you’re a crypto-luxurian? A new limited-edition collaboration from Fendi and global digital asset management platform Ledger, has resulted in a collection of tech accessories designed to hold Ledger’s secure hardware crypto wallet. The collection was unveiled at Fendi’s Men’s AW22-23 fashion show on January 15.

• Day Luxe: For his AW22 collection, Tom Ford offset a monochrome color palette with sumptuous fabrications, that reinforced the desirability of the jewel box palette. Ford layered mono-colors to create depth and richness, bringing a heightened sophistication to daywear. 

• New Territories: Luxury brands are rediscovering the US and as the country gets wealthier, they are eyeing second - and even third-tier - cities as new retail hotspots. Prada is heading to Austin, Louis Vuitton will show its 2023 Cruise collection in La Jolla, California, and Kering has announced plans to expand its retail presence in Nashville and Atlanta.

2. Luxury’s new beauty codes

In our latest What’s Up US Makeup report, we highlight 10 of the latest trends for the US market, including the New Luxury Expression - a trend propelled by the buoyant US economy, ascending consumer optimism, a desire for higher sophistication, and to, quite frankly, look expensive.

The AW 22/23 catwalk season confirmed that sophistication is back. From haute hair styling to ultra-glam makeup, the luxury of freedom is being expressed through sophisticated new looks. And Americans are in the mood for a party - after months of restrictions, the return of socializing is a gift for those wanting to make a bold beauty statement.  In Beauty this manifests as a look that is equal parts Wall Street and 90s It Girl.

• Brown Brilliance: Intense chocolatey hues replace minimalist and neutral colors. Dark creamy lipsticks or coffee-and-cream nail polish are the new aesthetics to follow.

• Ultra-Comfort Matte: According to Spate, the number of searches using the term “Matte” has experienced +13,7% growth amounting to 762,4 K monthly searches. “Cream to Powder Foundation” was at +175,1% (Source: Spate NYC Tool - End March 2022 - Year Over Year).

• Monochromatic Statement: Color becomes a conduit for pleasure and self-expression, with vivid combinations and striking monochromes representing luxury’s new dynamism. Full-color looks make a bold statement, this is see-and-be-seen beauty that draws on layering mono-color to striking effect. 

This is an extract from our latest What’s Up US Beauty report for Spring 2022.

Our new What's Up report analyzes the latest evolution of the US Beauty market, decoding the societal changes and innovative paths of beauty brands, organized around ten inspirational trends.

Each trend is supported by examples of aspirational beauty archetypes, along with information on the new indie players, concepts and products that are changing the Beauty game. Every trend confirmation is backed by key data analysis provided by the Spate NYC Google search tool and Tribe Dynamics latest figures, allowing us to deliver you an even deeper level of actionable insight and market accuracy. 

Seventy pages, ten trends, unmissable insight.

contact us to ask for more information or for a quotation.

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Why brands should think more about adaptive Beauty

Photo: Ron Lash via Pexels

In a world where 15% of the population are living with some form of disability and the number of people aged over-60 is set to double by 2050, it is now critical for brands to consider Adaptive Beauty as part of their strategy.

Representing a quarter of the population in the United States, people with disabilities hold an estimated spending power of $490 billion, yet their needs continue to be overlooked by many brands. Forward-thinking companies are beginning to bring solutions with adaptive products, tools and packaging that allow those with particular needs to be part of the Beauty conversation - without any concessions or limitations. We are already seeing early signs of a new approach to Beauty taking shape, where holistic empathy for all humans and for the planet is driving new product innovation and creative expression. 

Beauty Brands can take inspiration from other industries, which are making accessibility a priority.

1. Innovation in adaptive fashion and sportswear

   In fashion, Tommy Hilfiger’s Spring 2021 Adaptive Collection was designed specifically for adults and children living with disabilities. Nike has created a handsfree sneaker in the Go FlyEase, which works due to the tensioner band and bi-stable hinge holding the shoe in a steady open position. While Gen Z brand Rebirth Garment tackles accessibility through a body non-conformist lens, creating bold wearables and accessories for people on the full spectrum of gender, size and ability. Similarly pitching at a younger demographic Intimately is a new, trend-led adaptive lingerie brand that designs for individuals with reduced hand dexterity and shoulder mobility. There is also an Intimately mobile app where members of the disabled community can connect with one another.

2. Facilitating in-store access

   Pantene have partnered with blind broadcaster and TikTokker Lucy Edwards for the launch of their new NaviLens codes on Pantene Miracles products and display shelving. NaviLens is like a next-generation QR code;. users download the NaviLens app to scan with their mobile camera to receive the distance to the product, along with the necessary information contextualized, in this instance product information including descriptions of the bottle shapes.

   A Starbucks store located inside the Seoul National University Dental Hospital sets the tone for what truly adaptive retail can look like. The entire store, including back-of-house, is fully wheelchair accessible, and all staff are trained in basic Korean Sign Language. Other features include contactless speech-to-text voice recognition through a tablet, a Braille menu, and digital signage which lets customers track the progress of their order.

   Amplifying its commitment to size and skin tone inclusivity, Savage x Fenty’s new Las Vegas flagship leverages tech to create a more inclusive and safer shopping environment. The store features Fit:Match AI technology, using an iPhone to scan a shopper’s body dimensions in a matter of seconds. The app then provides product recommendations based on the user’s size and shape, allowing them to purchase without having to try on in-store.

3. Adaptive Beauty underway

   In Beauty, inclusivity and accessibility are also moving beyond the issue of skin color. Kohl Kreatives is a post-inclusive beauty brand specialising in tools supporting individuals with motor disabilities, transgender people and individuals going through, or recovering from, cancer treatment. The Flex Collection makeup brush set is tailored towards anyone with a motor disability or disease.

   Olay has developed the open-source and unpatented Easy Open Lid to widen the accessibility of the brand’s moisturiser products. The lid has winged sides and a raised top with added texture for grip, higher-contrast product labels and Braille text. The lid was developed in consultation with physical therapists, occupational therapists, and UX experts to improve usability for people with a wide range of dexterity issues. 

Adaptive Beauty is one of the trends we highlight in our latest USA Trend Report - The New State of Being. It is also one of the key highlights or our White Paper - The age of Fluidity - Trends 2022 and beyond.

Contact us for more information.

Beauty’s Bounceback IN USA

Pic: Pexels - Guilherme Almeida

The latest figures from The NPD Group underscore the rising mood of consumer optimism, as the US beauty industry emerges from last year +30% versus 2020 (the equivalent of $22bn in sales).  Fragrance was the best performing category (+49%) YoY, followed by haircare (+47%), makeup (+23%), and skincare (+18%).  

For many, returning to the office and the revival of social activities has fuelled the appetite for new products. Coupled with a lockdown diet of TikTok tutorials, consumers are feeling more creative and experimental than ever. According to NPD’s data, there was a growth in sales of cream and stick blushes - two products that have gained particular popularity on social media. Further to that, brands helmed by high profile influencers and creators had the highest revenue gains among all the makeup brand types. 

In the skincare category, sales of facial cleansers, creams, and serums, grew between 15% and 24%, versus 2020. Sales of targeted products, like eye and lip treatments, also increased. Clinical skincare brands contributed the highest revenue gains to the category, and surpassed natural as the largest brand type in skincare, based on revenue.

“As we move through 2022, the beauty companies that will thrive are those that harness the industry’s unique ability to spread joy, while also recognizing the opportunities of a changed consumer and retail environment. We can expect more change to unfold in 2022, but, along with these changes, new opportunities for the beauty industry will present themselves.” Larissa Jensen, beauty industry advisor at NPD

In our latest trend report, The New State of Being - Makeup, our team charts beauty’s positive rebound and how optimistic consumer sentiment is not only driving the continued bounceback of the beauty market but is also translating into exciting new product directions. Our next report, The New State of Being - Skincare, will be available in March. 

Top 5 Beauty PREDICTIONS for 2021 ( and Beyond)

Photo Credit - Isco

2020 has been the year of acceleration of significant trends and a year that has reshaped the market forever, as consumers have disrupted their behavior in the way they shop, their needs, and their beauty aspirations. As 2021 has started, hopes are emerging, and brands need to prepare for the new normal. 

Consumers have lived through a year of new experimentations, more in-depth knowledge through digitalization, and have had the time to think about what they truly value in their lives (and their Beauty). 

 2021 will be essential to reinvent, find new dimensions of excellence and luxury, redefine values, meet new requirements, and participate in resilience.

This article highlights 5 of our predictions in 2021 and beyond, based on key highlights from 2020 and the evolutions we expect for the future.

An extract of a white paper available at the agency. 

1.      From Transparency to Radical Traceability

As trust is the new currency, safety and wellness become key; brands will need to explore radical traceability solutions. 

Transparency is a prerequisite of conscious consumption, and 2020 has reinforced the need to make a safe choice for anything applied on skin. Moreover, reaching global wellbeing implies ethical decisions, especially in luxury.  IPSOS Luxury survey shows that 90% of the affluent Chinese expect brands to have an ethical/ecological commitment, and 88% expect them to respect animal wellbeing. More than words, consumers call for facts. 

According to the UEBT 2020 survey, consumers expect more information on packaging: 82% want to know the origin of ingredients, and 78% wish to know the social impact of sourcing local ingredients. In 2020, the discussion on ethical sourcing accelerated.  In the USA, Beautycounter has made a massive communication on responsible sourcing, pointing out the “clean” origing of their Mica and the urgence to fight against hidden forced labor. 

British E-Retailer, Cult, has cooperated with the blockchain technology platform Provenance to collect information about the source, ingredients, craftsmanship, and requirements of its products, and then use evidence to prove the authenticity of this information

2.      From "Skinification" to augmented "Healthification."

"Skinification" was the major trend in 2020, as consumers shifted from makeup to the "pandemic-proof" skincare market. But what 2020 has taught us is the importance of prevention for our health. According to Innova's Consumer Survey 2020, "six out of ten global consumers are increasingly looking for F&B products that support their immune health. One in three says that concerns about immune health increased in 2020 over 2019". 

A healthy complexion has always been the quintessence of Beauty, but consumers are actively looking at ingredients that bring more than a quick fix or beautiful makeup. According to WWD, Vitamins, supplements, and even homeopathic remedies experienced unprecedented levels of demand during the April coronavirus pandemic in the US. We have seen skincare transitioning to self-care, as consumers were spending more time at home, dealing with anxiety and their mental health. Interest in wellness has increased, and new brands are taking the stand to answer this new need. Psychotherapy brand Disciple offers a holistic approach to stress-relief and answers to anxiety-related skin issues such as acne.

The Nue Co. - Forest Lung

The British wellness DTC brand Nue Co. launched Forest Lungs, a fragrance "supplement" intended to "deliver the healing effects of nature to the body [and] support the reduction of everyday stress."   

3.      From Skintellectualization to "Science Inside"

The "skintellectualization" of Beauty has emerged as a significant trend in 2020, propelled by Gen Z. 

Empowered by digital tools, these consumers are armed with in-depth Beauty knowledge and are now "ingredient wizards", even more attentive to INCI. Online, they are building a digital Beauty library, thanks to all the knowledge passed on forums, Reddit, Youtube, and social media.

@Skincare By Hyram

Simultaneously, a new generation of influencers such as skincare guru @Hyram in the US or @Secret de Peau in France, deciphers every product. Ready to make the next leap, ingredient-focused brand Inkey List drives the trend with a pedagogical approach to imperfections, specific protocols, and a radical education of consumers.

While recent years' fascination for mystical wellness was key, led by gurus such as Gwyneth Paltrow, we now see a renewed quest for scientific legitimacy. 2020 was the year of the emergence of scientific expert brands such as Dr. Barbara Sturm. Her website relaunch in September 2020 focused on more educational features, propelling the views to  + 400%, according to Glossy.Co, Dr. Barbara Sturm's success embodies this new quest for science reinforcement – calling for experts, doctors, PHD with solid backgrounds and claims backed with scientific facts. 

4.      From Sustainability to Eco Celebration

 The recent sanitary crisis led to an acceleration of the expectation of consumers for purpose-driven and sustainable solutions. Mc Kinsey mentions "sustainability first”, while 57% of consumers in Germany and the UK declared, "they had made significant changes to their lifestyles to lessen their environmental impact."

2020 was a significant year in sustainability stand up from brands in all markets. From zero-waste dining restaurants, zero-waste design, second-hand fashion or trashion (fashion with trash), innovation with eco-friendly solutions have accelerated, pushing brands to rethink packaging, product-delivery system, and delivery. New refills solutions (ex Unilever, Clarins Eco-Bar, Shiseido) have propelled the concept of zero waste beyond Indie. In the USA, Clean retailer Credo has sped up their Clean 2.O philosophy prioritizing sustainability by announcing that in 2023 they will banish single-use packaging, from single-use masks to testing wands in store.  Same for Selfridges in the UK, progressing in reducing its "plastic footprint" banning wipes to plastic-based glitter. All-over bold moves in the context of a sanitary crisis.

5.      From Lockdown Beauty to Unleashing Freedom 

 2020 lockdown transformed homes into safe life-spaces and wellness sanctuaries. 

This "home-hubbing" behavior created new needs, like self-care, intimate skincare, or the quest for minimalism. Lockdown was also an opportunity to self-experiment. Makeup became a powerful tool to fight boredom and fuel personal creativity. From maximalist nudes to extreme color payoffs, "lockdown looks", we witnessed the rise of highly creative looks shared on social media. Some 46% of women and 41% of men said they've spent more time on social media during the pandemic (source: Business.com). Instagram story, Tik Tok, and Twitch thus became the perfect platforms to boost self-expression, fight boredom, and seek inspiration. These platforms privilege movement, fun, freedom, far away from the lavish looks of Instagram and the hybridization of the virtual and real world.

Travis Scott x Byredo : Space Rage Perfume

Shining example: the collaboration Travis Scott x Byredo gave birth to the Space Rage perfume, which encapsulates the essence of space to fly from home. The virtual gathering also increased to connect meaningfully, express creativity, and feel alive. Beauty brands surfed the trend: Morphe collaborated with the d'Amelio sisters on TikTok, and ELF created ASMR-like videos for their new Mint Collection. New into cosmetics market, we also explore the impact of Twitch in Makeup.

The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, Consulting and Forecasting Agency, specialist of the Beauty world, just launched its latest Inspiration Makeup USA trend book. Interested? Feel free to contact us !

THE RISE OF THE INDIE FRENCH TOUCH - 3 GREEN SPOTS IN PARIS

Photo: Peter Bucks in Paris via Unsplash

Did you forget about French Touch? After a few explosive years driven by American indie brands, French Indies are on the rise…

A wave of optimism is arriving in Paris, with new indie beauty brands created by founders that propose creative and disruptive stories. More specifically, new French brands are opening the chapter of green beauty, with a contemporary French signature i.e. infused with sophistication, high refinement and sensoriality.

Here is a selection of new addresses in Paris we are happy to share. Crafted by young entrepreneurs who believe that the future is in experiential retail, the power of shareable spaces and green alternatives, these boutiques are truly innovative. These brands or retailers are also raising the bar in sustainability innovation, most of them proposing refillable products as a natural continuity of their concept. In France, more and more consumers favor more sustainable practices. In fact, 47% consumers have already bought products in bulk in 2017 (vs 38% en 1998 according to Credoc - one of the highest figures in Europe!). No wonder these new places expand the idea to beauty and personal care.

Have a look at the three "must visit" hot green spots in Paris.

Amalthea - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Amalthea - The Lab-Boutique

This young, organic, sustainable and 100% made in France organic skincare brand just opened a lab-boutique in the Marais. Simple formulation and a line organized by moments.

❤️: we love the design-minded, peaceful space, sustainable & refillable packs.

🏠 Amalthea (📸insta: @amalthea.bio)

39 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris

Kerzon - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Kerzon - “Madeleine de Proust”

Founded by two brothers, Kerzon is a home fragrance and personal care brand that draws inspiration in travels and childhood. The store is “a paradise for flaneurs from the world” as expressed by the brand.

❤️ : Parisian graphic design (chic and fun), refreshing fragrances and ethical values (local, fair price, transparency).

🏠 Kerzon (📸insta: @kerzon_maison)

68, rue de Turenne, 75003 Paris

The Naked Shop - photo: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

The Naked Shop - Zero Waste / 100% Style

The Naked Shop is one of the first zero-waste Beauty store in Paris, made with style and energy. Oils and cosmetics can be refilled directly with the beautiful taps.

❤️ : special mention to the "self-service" system to freely refill products.

🏠 The Naked Shop ( 📸insta: @the.naked.shop)

75, rue Oberkampf 75011 Paris

Thank you 🙏🏻 to the owners of these new spaces for sharing their stories and allowing us to take pics.

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation will be issuing a French Touch Trend Report. For more information or to book a Paris Beauty Tour - Contact us !

RAISING THE BAR OF CLEAN BEAUTY

Photo Credits: Airony Haut / Unsplash

Much like clean eating, clean beauty has recently taken the industry by storm. Yet, as the wellness movement continues to influence industry, more and more clean beauty products are being dropped into a market where there are no recognized clean-certified labels.

Initially driven by safety concerns, the clean beauty movement originally focused on what was NOT in a product, rather than what was. Today, as consumers want more, clean beauty is taking a new turn. From niche to mainstream, new clean products are not just “safe”; they are becoming increasingly sensorial and luxurious.

WHEN FEAR TURNS TO LOVE

Like many beauty trends, it all started with food. The #cleaneating hashtag has garnered over 42 million mentions on Instagram, to the point where it has its very own eating disorder, orthorexia.

Like many wellness trends (from organic to cruelty-free and green), a blend of fear and love has driven this new clean beauty movement, as much like food, cosmetics are meant to be both indulgent, but safe for consumers. Worn close to the body and against the skin, beauty products have always symbolized a soulful sense of love, self-care and intimacy.

In contrast, fear has been fueled by the opaque nature of beauty industry messaging, especially when it comes to ingredients, how products are made and the fear consumers have that they are simply being marketed to. . Knowing what’s in their product and learning how to read a label has become a top priority for consumers who are now buying with a digital driven mindset. According to a survey by Label Insight, 46% of consumers admit to using a smartphone to research product information in-store, with as many as 56% of Millennials admitting to doing so. With the arrival of Gen Z in the marketplace, future waves of consumers are more likely to be receptive to a clean approach to Beauty.

Photo - Lawrson Pinson / Unsplash

They are also less likely to respond to greenwashing, thanks to self-empowering digital tools and a new access to information. Especially given the rise in availability of label deciphering apps for smartphones such as Clean Beauty, Yuka, 화해(Hwahae), Inci Beauty, Pharmapocket, CosmEthics, Healthy Living or Beat the Microbead, all designed to break down what products actually contain.

So, according to the apps what are the clean rules?

Here is the thing: “clean” is more about what isn’t in the product rather than what is. Think: a policy of including “no nasties”, or in other words, beauty enemies including chemicals and artificial ingredients. Just like new French Beauty brand Seasonly puts it in its motto “the skin you want, minus the ingredients you might not.”

THE BEAUTY BRANDS DEFINING CLEAN BEAUTY

While some ingredients are banned for use in beauty products (more so in Europe than in the US), the legal definition of clean is still very much up for debate. All the same, clean usually means that a product is made in a safe lab using non-toxic ingredients, is made mindfully, free from synthetic materials and has been enriched with specially sourced ingredients. This is where indie brands thrive, as by virtue of having a small staff who can produce small batches, they are more likely to be perceived as clean beauty labels.

For clean brands, giving their own precise definition of what they consider to be “Clean Beauty” is key in their manifesto. Goop, one of the leaders in the clean movement writes:

“At Goop, we are creating a new standard of beauty. Clean, for us, is quite intense: It means a non-toxic product that is made without a long, ever-evolving list of ingredients linked to harmful health effects from hormone disruption, to cancer, to plain-old skin irritation. To name just a few: parabens, phthalates, PEGs, ethanolamines, chemical sunscreens, synthetic fragrance, BHT, BHA. “

Credit: courtesy of Goop

Tata Harper, one of the founding mother of the trend back in 2010, takes non-toxicity and traçeability to heart. “Every single product we make is a Complex Formula. We pack the most ingredients at the highest levels of concentration to deliver maximum results—without a single drop of artificial chemicals.” As such, the brand declares all of its products to be free from GMO, toxins, fillers, artificial colors, artificial fragrances and synthetic chemicals. Today, the Tata Harper brand is recognized as one of the most successful premium clean brands, boasting sales approaching $68 million dollars (source: WWD).

Photo credits: @_seasonly

FROM CLEAN RETAILERS TO MAINSTREAM RETAILERS’ SHIFT TO CLEAN

In the US, The Detox Market is a pioneer within the clean movement and a major actor in all things green beauty. Its focus has always been discovering and incubating new brands, and in showcasing brand founders’ stories that reflect a passion for non-toxic beauty choices. The retailer took a “safety pledge” promising to only sell products that are free from the banned ingredients featured on a comprehensive, continuously updated list that includes most parabens, synthetic fragrances, PEGS and petrochemicals -- among others.

Credo, the other big player in the Clean Beauty game, first started in 2015 in San Francisco and now boasts more than 8 shops and shops/spa across the US. The retailer displays a “dirty list” of toxic ingredients on its website, including aluminium powder, EDTA, petrolatum, paraffin, phthalates, colorants, glycols, lanolin, keratin etc.

Another shining example, the new kid on the Manhattan block, is Follain, a company which cultivates deep relationships with women, offers customers package-free options (such as refillable soaps) and a slew of clean alternatives via niche brands including French Girl, Osea, Rahua, Pai and Tata Harper. The retailer even goes as far as to claim that “less than 20% of cosmetics ingredients have been tested for safety”, with an impressive list of restricted ingredients.

Mainstream retailers in the US have also joined the clean beauty movement via initiatives such as the “Clean at Sephora” label. With this label, the retail giant promises to curate “clean stuff only”, under the motto “the beauty you want, minus the ingredients you might not.” This applies to products free from sulfates, SLS and SLES, parabens, formaldehyde, mineral oils, retinyl palmitate, oxybenzone, coal tar, hydroquinone, triclosan, and triclocarban. They also pledge that products will contain less than one percent synthetic fragrance. 

Photo credits: @thedetoxmarket

While Clean beauty is becoming mainstream in the USA, Europe and Asia trends are more towards “natural beauty” and “green beauty”.

 In France, le Printemps Department store just opened a « Green Market », a beauty corner dedicated to natural and sustainable beauty. In Japan, Cosme-Kitchen has become the "Natural & Organic” retailer with several point of sales featuring Japanese and international beauty brands.  

In a nutshell, the emergence of Green Beauty is worldwide, becoming more premiumized, and is the beginning of a mainstream movement that will impact the future of beauty: a safe, reassuring yet highly sensorial new chapter of Clean Beauty is underway.

Want to know more about clean beauty? Not only has The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency just released a new Skincare Edition of its US trend report, but it will be hosting the "Rise of the Natural & Clean Movement" roundtable discussion at the upcoming Makeup In L.A. conference. For a copy of Beauty Focus on Clean Beauty, prices and conditions, feel free to contact the agency.