At Cosmetic360 on October 16-17, 2024 in Paris, the Cosmetics IC team explored key innovations redefining the future of beauty, from eco-conscious alternatives to bio-inspired actives, advanced UV defenses, and transformative textures. These discoveries reflect the industry’s strategic response to rising demands for sustainability, biomimetic technology, and long-lasting efficacy. Here, we highlight the standout technologies that promise to shape the next generation of cosmetics, addressing critical market needs with groundbreaking solutions.

1. Eco-Conscious Innovations: The Rise of Microplastic Alternatives in Cosmetics

As consumers increasingly seek sustainable cosmetic solutions, interest in microplastic alternatives has surged (U.S. Google searches for microplastics are up +73.7% YoY - Spate (from Oct 2023 to Sep 2024 vs. Oct 2022 to Sep 2023)). This demand has fueled innovations in microplastic-free ingredients designed to offer functional and environmentally friendly replacements.

Codif - Sensory Apple Pomace

Derived from upcycled Brittany apples, this micronized apple powder provides an alternative to PMMA, a microplastic soon to be banned in Europe. Sensory Apple Pomace delivers a matte, blurring effect on redness and imperfections, while tribology tests demonstrate its enhanced softness, reducing friction sound on the skin for a smoother sensory experience.

Dionymer - Biowaste-Derived Polyester

A fully biodegradable alternative to petroleum-based polymers, Dionymer’s PHBV is made through fermentation and is 100% biobased. This microplastic-free solution replicates the functionality of PP, PE, and PLA without the environmental impact, supporting cleaner, sustainable formulations.

2. Nature’s Defense Mechanisms: Biomimetic Skincare Innovations

As bio-inspired ingredients gain popularity in skincare (global TikTok views for biomimetic have risen +21.3% YoY - Spate - (from Oct 29, 2023 to Oct 27, 2024 vs. Oct 30, 2022 to Oct 29, 2023)), novel active ingredients are emerging, rooted in nature’s adaptive mechanisms and refined through advanced biotechnology.

Solabia - Serenibiome

After eight years of research, Solabia developed Serenibiome, a bio-inspired ingredient derived from the epiphytic fungus Pseudozyma flocculosa, which naturally protects plants by producing lipids that guard against environmental stressors. This glycolipid-based active, stabilized through a biomimetic fermentation process, is designed for sensitive and atopic skin. Serenibiome selectively targets Staphylococcus aureus, a bacterium commonly linked to skin inflammation, helping to rebalance the microbiome, reduce neurogenic inflammation, and repair the skin barrier. Clinically tested, Serenibiome reduces redness, itching, and dryness, while increasing hydration and supporting the skin's overall resilience.

Provital - Shiloxome

Shiloxome is an innovative anti-aging ingredient designed specifically for mature skin, particularly those affected by menopause or post-menopausal changes. Using the pioneering Triplobiome™ Technology, Shiloxome draws from endophytic organisms naturally present in cork oak. This yeast-derived active mimics the cork’s defense mechanisms, which protect it from environmental damage. Shiloxome offers strong anti-pollution and antioxidant benefits and promotes relipidation by boosting ceramide NS synthesis, helping to restore the skin’s protective barrier and resilience against urban stressors.

3. Advanced UV Defense: Long-Lasting Protection and SPF Boosting

With growing interest in long-lasting UV protection (global Google searches for Long Lasting + Sunscreen are up +77.2% YoY - Spate (from Oct 2023 to Sep 2024 vs. Oct 2022 to Sep 2023)), new innovations are enhancing sunscreen efficacy and durability.

Seprify – SkyWhite

Awarded the COSMETIC360 Raw Materials Award, SkyWhite offers a multifunctional cellulose-based alternative to titanium dioxide. Its 3D structure reflects UV rays, boosting SPF without TiO2. SkyWhite also emulsifies formulas and adapts color intensity: added in water, it produces a whiter effect, while in oils, it amplifies color depth.

Skinosive - Bioadhesion Technology

Skinosive’s Bioadhesive Technology secures active ingredients on the skin’s surface, demonstrated in tests on chemical UV filters. It enhances protection by adhering sunscreen to the stratum corneum, preventing deeper penetration and offering up to 8 hours of proven UV defense, even under external stress.

4. Revolutionary Textures: Helical Emulsion in Cosmetics and 3D Printing

In the realm of innovative formulations, two cutting-edge technologies are reshaping cosmetic textures, merging precision and advanced design for a superior sensorial experience.

Experis - Helical Emulsion Technology

Experis introduces a new philosophy in natural formulation with its Helical Emulsion Technology, a sensory-driven, multifunctional approach (99% natural origin). Unlike traditional emulsions, where oil droplets remain separate and release rapidly, Helical Emulsion Technology distributes oil along this helical matrix, achieving a continuous, controlled release. This structure provides a gradual, immersive sensory experience, optimizing skin affinity, enhancing penetration, and creating a seamless fusion with the skin.

ABC Texture - 3D-Printed Cosmetics

This patented 3D printing technology creates futuristic, airy textures in solid cosmetics. By incorporating up to 99% air in a controlled three-dimensional matrix, these cosmetics offer a lightweight application, reducing the greasy or sticky feel of traditional balms and sunscreens. The unique 3D structure also improves foaming in rinse-off products by increasing air and water interfaces, while the design minimizes oil content, enhancing texture and sensory appeal.

The Cosmetics IC Take

The innovations showcased at Cosmetic360 illustrate a robust evolution toward products that blend functionality with sustainability, bio-adaptive properties, and sensory appeal. These advances affirm the cosmetics industry’s commitment to both environmental responsibility and scientific innovation, positioning it to meet growing consumer expectations with high-performance, eco-responsible solutions.

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