Transcendent Nature: Bold Ambitions for a Better Future

CATRIN DAVIES November 26, 2024

Pic: Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation at the MakeUp in NewYork - with Leila Rochet (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation), Sarah Jindal (Mintel) and Sebastien Bardon (Capsum)

At MakeUp in New York, key thought leaders Sarah Jindal from Mintel and Sebastian Bardon, CEO of Capsum, joined Leila Rochet to discuss the theme of Transcendent Nature, exploring the imperative to leverage visionary science and technology to realize a more holistic and environmentally responsible future for the beauty industry.

During this Beauty Talk, Leïla Rochet introduced the major changes and new initiatives seen internationally in ethical sourcing and sustainability. Sarah Jindal presented the latest analysis from Mintel’s consumer research, focusing on the latest international changes in the beauty market. The discussion continued with Sébastien Bardon, CEO and co-founder of Capsum, a science-driven contract manufacturer specializing in microfluidic technologies applied to Beauty.

“In the future, sustainability will be tackled with innovative ideas and partnerships across industries, leading to solutions that benefit both people and the environment. Responding to growing consumer pressure, eco-native brands will drive an industry-wide transformation, setting new standards in eco-desirable packaging and ambitious makeup innovations.”

— Leila Rochet - CIO - Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Consumer expectations are rapidly reshaping the industry when it comes to clean beauty, driving brands to demonstrate a deep commitment to sustainability and ethics that goes beyond surface-level trends. Here are the key highlights from the conference:

A New Consumer Imperative

Consumers are demanding solutions that benefit both people and the planet, driving brands to prioritize investments in ethical sourcing and production. Products backed by data and experts will gain traction with savvy, but skeptical, consumers - 30% say they trust a brand if it has strong sustainability initiatives, according to Mintel.

“We know consumers want to live more eco-friendly lifestyles,” said Jindal, who highlighted a significant shift in consumer power, with one-third of U.S. adults now saying they are committed to sustainability. “A few years ago, people wouldn’t have believed their actions mattered, but now there’s optimism. Positive sentiment like this is powerful, as it fully engages people with brand initiatives, creating alignment between consumer behavior and brand messaging.”

This shift is encouraging cross-industry collaborations between eco-native brands and innovators working in science and technology, a dynamic that is integral to the Capsum lab, admitted Bardon. As a company built on experimentation, Capsum is investing in B2B companies that are leading the field in terms of ingredient, packaging, and device innovation - ensuring their team is fed a steady stream of insights and inspiration. “Sustainability is central to our work,” he explained. “The dual focus on product attraction and environmental promises is challenging but vital.” Critically, Capsum’s CEO noted that they are guided by their clients, noting that constant engagement is key to staying ahead of their demands.

Biotechnology: A Transformational Force

“In fashion, food and product design, we are seeing ambitious new developments in sustainable innovation with the emergence of novel materials and ingredients that radically reduce our reliance on non-renewables,” explained Leila Rochet, CIO of Cosmetics IC. The agency highlighted the emergence of biologically engineered textiles or materials used in other industries.

Biotechnology is becoming more than a tool; it is becoming the backbone of sustainable innovation. “Over the past three years, we’ve seen an 89% increase in products mentioning fermentation, a 312% increase in references to the biome, and a 146% increase in the use of terms like biotech or biotechnology on packaging,” revealed Jindal.

Brands increasingly call out these aspects on packs to educate consumers and differentiate their offerings. By focusing on lab-grown sustainability benefits and using science-led influencers, brands can help overcome consumer uncertainty and appeal to the 24% of U.S. consumers who would like to learn more about lab-grown ingredients.

Advancements in this field are enabling the development of sustainable, lab-grown ingredients that rival—and often exceed—the performance of traditional ones, like Capsum’s microencapsulated active ingredients that deliver both superior results and sustainability.

Full Transparency

The shift toward sustainability demands more than innovation in formulation; it extends to ethical practices across the supply chain. Over one-third of consumers (39%) aged 18-44 now want products to be ethically sourced.

Young consumers are driving this shift, many of whom don’t differentiate between what’s good for the environment and what’s good for people. For Jindal, it comes down to younger generations feeling they have more to lose, noting that “eco-ethical positioning, covering topics like biodiversity and responsible sourcing, resonates deeply with younger generations because they’re more invested in ensuring the planet remains inhabitable for a longer time.”

Capsum is investing in vertical farms to ringfence its ingredient sources, allowing scientists to grow plants with boosted potency while retaining water and avoiding the wastage typical in open fields. “This level of control ensures consistent quality and traceability, meeting growing consumer expectations,” explained Bardon.

THE CIC TAKE

The future of beauty lies in applying science and technology to transcend nature. This means exploring regenerative practices and sustainable ingredient sources that severe the industry’s reliance on non-renewables. Brands will only unlock a greener future by thinking beyond clean, and by democratizing efficacy and adding value to forge a powerful pact between science, technology and nature.
Our What’s Up #21 report (out now) explores consumers’ desire to reconnect with the grounding elements of nature, as we grapple with the impact of climate change. This calls for brands to invest in novel biotech materials, botanical-infused products, and medicine and wellness practices that harness nature’s therapeutic healing powers, bringing nature-powered innovation to the fore.

Contact the team today for more information.

(All statistics provided by Mintel)

MEET THE FOUNDER: DANESSA MYRICKS TALKS ARTISTRY AND INCLUSION

CATRIN DAVIES November 13, 2024

At MakeUp in New York 2024, our Chief Inspiration Officer Leila Rochet sat down for an exclusive conversation with acclaimed beauty brand CEO and Founder, Danessa Myricks.

Renowned for its artistry, innovation, and comprehensive approach to inclusivity, Danessa Myricks Beauty has quickly gained recognition from global beauty fans. Rooted in creativity, the brand champions individuality and self-expression, chiming with the values of today’s Gen Z.

For these hedonistic beauty fans, makeup is integral to a new treat-based culture. The boom in concert makeup, couture-inspired makeovers, and character-driven narratives on social media, signals a new era of creativity as pleasure becomes a key driver for thrill-seeking consumers. This culture shift is enticing consumers to experiment with bold looks, explore new personas, and indulge in lavish artistry.

Discussing the trend for self-treating as a polycrisis coping mechanism, Leila and Danessa explored the imperative for joy in makeup and the rising call for sensory considerations when it comes to NPD.

“Danessa’s infectious passion for beauty and her intuitive understanding of the transformative power of makeup resonate deeply with today’s consumers. Her autodidactic approach has given her a unique perspective, allowing her to create products that are intimately attuned to the needs and desires of real people, regardless of their gender, age, or skin story. In Danessa’s world, makeup is not a mask but a tool of empowerment – an opportunity to celebrate one’s individuality and unleash creativity.”

— Leila Rochet, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Leila: Could you start by telling us a bit about your journey into this industry?

Danessa: I’m an accidental makeup artist, an accidental brand founder, and even an accidental photographer. I was simply living my life and adapting as things happened. At 30, I was a displaced worker; the company I worked for shut down. As a single mother with a newborn and a 7-year-old, I had to rethink my life. I was working at a publishing company that produced beauty magazines. The lives of the makeup artists and photographers there seemed exciting, while my job was just to feed my kids—nothing that sparked inspiration. My relationship with beauty was complicated; the industry wasn’t welcoming for someone like me. But seeing the artists in that space made me want to be creative. I decided to teach myself makeup in my basement. I worked for free for about a year, then landed my first commercial job, and the rest just unfolded from there. It’s been about saying “yes” to opportunities and having the courage to step into them.

Leila: What were the biggest challenges you faced as a self-taught artist? I imagine it wasn’t easy reaching the success you enjoy today.

Danessa: Oh, definitely not easy. The biggest challenge was my lack of knowledge. I was figuring things out as I went. But, honestly, I’m grateful for that ignorance because it allowed me to carve a different path without being told what was “possible” or “impossible.” I learned by dreaming and experimenting, and I had to overcome fear at every stage. Even now, every day feels challenging and a bit scary, but I keep moving forward with courage.

Leila: What was the social and political backdrop like at the time you started? Did it influence your vision?

Danessa: Absolutely. My brand is very personal; it’s a reflection of my story and the stories of the people I encounter. It’s deeply connected to the social and political climate. I create with a focus on solving problems people face and addressing what they feel is missing. So, yes, the backdrop has always influenced my brand’s vision.

“My inspiration comes from those who came before me—like my parents, whose struggles were far greater than mine. I feel a responsibility to keep going and make space for others who look like me. Every success, every “yes” I achieve, creates room for someone else to thrive in this industry”

— Danessa Myricks, MakeUp in New York 2024

Leila: Your brand is recognized for its inclusivity and versatility. How do you ensure that your products cater to such a diverse range of skin tones and types?

Danessa: My brand is about people’s stories. It’s about creating a space where everyone feels seen and represented. When I think about developing a product, I literally close my eyes and think about all types of people. My team represents the world, and we’re constantly listening to customers’ stories. The challenge has been finding partners who share our commitment to inclusivity, especially since some formulations are not designed to work across all skin tones. For example, certain base formulas are pure white, which can look great on lighter skin but doesn’t work for everyone. So, we’ve had to search for partners who understand our goal to create for everyone.

Leila: Makeup has become a form of self-expression, especially with “treat culture” gaining popularity. Consumers now see beauty as a source of creativity and comfort. How does that influence your brand’s vision?

Danessa: It’s everything. Makeup is about problem-solving, but it’s also about joy. I remember my mom introducing me to blue eyeliner, which made my eyes pop. Makeup has this incredible ability to make people feel something. So, when we develop products, we focus on how it affects all the senses. The goal is to bring joy inside and out. It’s not just about confidence; it’s about amplifying who you believe you are.

Leila: Speaking of product development, can you share some insights into your innovation process? How do you come up with new ideas, like the latest palette?

Danessa: We dream big. Our development process starts with what we call “DREAM”—D is for “Dreaming”, R is for “Reimagining”, E is for “Ease of Use”, A is for “Accessibility”, and M is for “Magic”. We create with everyone in mind. Each product is designed by dreaming and reimagining, and we focus on accessibility to make sure it’s available to everyone. It’s about creating things that didn’t exist before and approaching them from a new perspective.

Leila: That’s inspiring! Let’s talk about the future. What’s next for Danessa Myricks Beauty?

Danessa: Oh, I have big plans! We’re reimagining what skincare and makeup could be. Could they be one and the same? Do routines need to stay as they are? I want to explore new ways for people to experience skin and complexion products.

KEY STATS - DANESSA MYRICKS BEAUTY

+61.5% increase year-over-year in TikTok searches (1)
+25.9% increase year-over-year in UK Google searches (2)
#38 ranking in EMV, representing a +56% year-over-year increase (3)

Sources: (1) Spate NY Tool - US TIkTok views - from Sep 10, 2023 to Sep 8, 2024 vs. Sep 11, 2022 to Sep 10, 2023

(2) Spate NY Tool - US Google searches - from Sep 2023 to Aug 2024 vs. Sep 2022 to Aug 2023

(3) Tribe Dynamics - Jan 2024-Aug 2024

THE CIC TAKE

Our What’s Up #21 report (out now) explores the rise of feel-good makeup and the desire for beauty that brings glimmers of joy to the daily routine. The surging popularity of Danessa Myricks Beauty demonstrates the necessity for brands to expand access to artistry to all consumers, as self-celebration becomes a key driver for Gen Z consumers. Contact the team today for more information.

SOCIAL MEDIA SNAPSHOT: THE SLEEPMAXXING MOMENT

CATRIN DAVIES November 7, 2024

In the past few months, trends like #MorningShed and #SleepyGirlMocktail have blown up online. With the rise of the "Sleep Economy," sleep has become a focal point for both beauty and wellness, prompting brands to develop innovative products aimed at enhancing sleep quality. This movement goes beyond a fleeting trend—it's evolving into a lifestyle, as new narratives and rituals surrounding sleep gain momentum.

Sources : @maytemyers / @misspeytonsmith / @joatgains

The Sleep Surge

In this new phase, sleep optimization is about a lot more than clocking eight hours. It is about improving sleep hygiene, sleep quality, and the entire sleep experience. Brands are tapping into this by developing products designed to optimize bedtime routines, leading to huge growth in sleep-related searches across social media.

‘Sleep’-related searches grew +124% (YoY - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29)
Searches for ‘sleep hygiene’ skyrocketed by +222% (YoY - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29)

The Daily Shed

#TheDailyShed is a relatively recent trend that emerged in early summer. It involves revealing one’s wake-up beauty routine, focusing on the removal of nighttime products. Common elements include skincare treatments, like overnight peeling masks, anti-wrinkle patches, and undereye masks. It also extends to haircare, like silk bonnets or heatless curlers to maintain hairstyle and reduce frizz. Beauty enthusiasts also showcase the removal of mouth tapes, chin straps, and nasal dilators, used to regulate breathing.

‘Daily Shed’ searches grew +253.5% (quarter-over-quarter - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29)

The Sleepy Girl Mocktail

The #SleepyGirlMocktail is a beverage that gained popularity on TikTok in 2023 and has continued to trend into 2024. It's touted as a natural sleep aid, typically made with tart cherry juice, magnesium powder (+95.3% YoY TikTok views - Oct 29), and a splash of seltzer or lemon-lime soda. Proponents claim that the melatonin in tart cherry juice and the calming effects of magnesium can promote better sleep.

Brands like Moon Juice (+41.2% YoY TikTok views - Oct 29) have taken the opportunity to surf on the TikTok trend and deliver "Sleepy Girl™ Mocktail" supplements and recipes. Moon Juice’s signature sleep supplement is Magnesi-Om®, which contains three bioavailable forms of Magnesium and L-Theanine to enhance calmness. In October 2024, it also released the Cherry Sleepy Magnesi-Om, which more closely reflects the taste of the original Sleepy Girl Mocktail recipe, popularized by @gracie_norton. The brand even boldly claims to be the “Home of the Sleepy Girl Mocktail 🍒💤”.

‘Sleepy Girl Mocktail’ has over 118.6M views on U.S. TikTok ( +711.7% YoY U.S. TikTok views - Oct 29)

Nasal Dilators & Mouth Tapes

The most viral sleepmaxxing items on TikTok are mouth tapes and nasal dilators, which are often used in tandem to encourage breathing through the nose. Users claim they improve sleep quality, resulting in better overall health. Intake Breathing is one of the most popular nose strip brands on TikTok, however, some are taking a DIY approach, making their own breath-enhancing devices: @raizashow’s tutorial involving using two magnets and a strip of tape has garnered more than 28M views in less than 2 months.

With the increasing popularity of nasal dilators and mouth tapes, experts are raising safety concerns and skepticism over the lack of scientific evidence to support their beneficial claims. Instead, sleep experts recommend focusing on basic sleep hygiene practices like maintaining a constant sleep schedule and creating a comfortable sleep environment, as well as limiting screen time before bed. James Wilson, known as The Sleep Geek, says consumers need to exercise caution when it comes to the whole sleepmaxxing movement. He believes that overemphasizing sleep optimization can lead to ‘orthosomnia’: the unhealthy obsession with achieving perfect sleep, which ultimately increases stress and anxiety and thus worsens sleep quality.

THE CIC TAKE

The sleep economy is expanding, as consumers demand products that are increasingly personalized, high-performing, and nuanced - 37% of U.S. consumers are looking for enhanced sleep products that also address cognitive functioning, stress, and anxiety management. This is a dynamic and thriving market, where engaged consumers are open to experimenting with new tools, treatments, and rituals. Our latest Inspiration Report, Higher Perspectives - The Future of Skincare and Wellness, explores the emerging opportunities arising in sleep performance as consumers align their beauty and health goals. Contact us for more information.

“Moving beyond sleeping better, new products are focusing on helping consumers maximize every moment,
including their downtime. The Nighttime Performer is prominent amongst the one-third of Americans who are interested in sleep monitoring devices and sleep-optimizing products and will invest in high-performance nighttime treatments and services. For them, sleep is intrinsic to wellness, and they will invest in rest to unlock peak daytime performance. With almost 9-in-10 Americans recognizing that quality of sleep matters more than quantity, there remains a huge opportunity for recovery-focused products.”

— The Nighttime Performer, Higher Perspectives - The Future of Skincare & Wellness, Cosmetics IC

(U.S. TikTok data source: Spate)

COSMETIC360 - Strategic Innovations Shaping the Future of Cosmetics

Guest User October 30, 2024

At Cosmetic360 on October 16-17, 2024 in Paris, the Cosmetics IC team explored key innovations redefining the future of beauty, from eco-conscious alternatives to bio-inspired actives, advanced UV defenses, and transformative textures. These discoveries reflect the industry’s strategic response to rising demands for sustainability, biomimetic technology, and long-lasting efficacy. Here, we highlight the standout technologies that promise to shape the next generation of cosmetics, addressing critical market needs with groundbreaking solutions.

1. Eco-Conscious Innovations: The Rise of Microplastic Alternatives in Cosmetics

As consumers increasingly seek sustainable cosmetic solutions, interest in microplastic alternatives has surged (U.S. Google searches for microplastics are up +73.7% YoY - Spate (from Oct 2023 to Sep 2024 vs. Oct 2022 to Sep 2023)). This demand has fueled innovations in microplastic-free ingredients designed to offer functional and environmentally friendly replacements.

Codif - Sensory Apple Pomace

Derived from upcycled Brittany apples, this micronized apple powder provides an alternative to PMMA, a microplastic soon to be banned in Europe. Sensory Apple Pomace delivers a matte, blurring effect on redness and imperfections, while tribology tests demonstrate its enhanced softness, reducing friction sound on the skin for a smoother sensory experience.

Dionymer - Biowaste-Derived Polyester

A fully biodegradable alternative to petroleum-based polymers, Dionymer’s PHBV is made through fermentation and is 100% biobased. This microplastic-free solution replicates the functionality of PP, PE, and PLA without the environmental impact, supporting cleaner, sustainable formulations.

2. Nature’s Defense Mechanisms: Biomimetic Skincare Innovations

As bio-inspired ingredients gain popularity in skincare (global TikTok views for biomimetic have risen +21.3% YoY - Spate - (from Oct 29, 2023 to Oct 27, 2024 vs. Oct 30, 2022 to Oct 29, 2023)), novel active ingredients are emerging, rooted in nature’s adaptive mechanisms and refined through advanced biotechnology.

Solabia - Serenibiome

After eight years of research, Solabia developed Serenibiome, a bio-inspired ingredient derived from the epiphytic fungus Pseudozyma flocculosa, which naturally protects plants by producing lipids that guard against environmental stressors. This glycolipid-based active, stabilized through a biomimetic fermentation process, is designed for sensitive and atopic skin. Serenibiome selectively targets Staphylococcus aureus, a bacterium commonly linked to skin inflammation, helping to rebalance the microbiome, reduce neurogenic inflammation, and repair the skin barrier. Clinically tested, Serenibiome reduces redness, itching, and dryness, while increasing hydration and supporting the skin's overall resilience.

Provital - Shiloxome

Shiloxome is an innovative anti-aging ingredient designed specifically for mature skin, particularly those affected by menopause or post-menopausal changes. Using the pioneering Triplobiome™ Technology, Shiloxome draws from endophytic organisms naturally present in cork oak. This yeast-derived active mimics the cork’s defense mechanisms, which protect it from environmental damage. Shiloxome offers strong anti-pollution and antioxidant benefits and promotes relipidation by boosting ceramide NS synthesis, helping to restore the skin’s protective barrier and resilience against urban stressors.

3. Advanced UV Defense: Long-Lasting Protection and SPF Boosting

With growing interest in long-lasting UV protection (global Google searches for Long Lasting + Sunscreen are up +77.2% YoY - Spate (from Oct 2023 to Sep 2024 vs. Oct 2022 to Sep 2023)), new innovations are enhancing sunscreen efficacy and durability.

Seprify – SkyWhite

Awarded the COSMETIC360 Raw Materials Award, SkyWhite offers a multifunctional cellulose-based alternative to titanium dioxide. Its 3D structure reflects UV rays, boosting SPF without TiO2. SkyWhite also emulsifies formulas and adapts color intensity: added in water, it produces a whiter effect, while in oils, it amplifies color depth.

Skinosive - Bioadhesion Technology

Skinosive’s Bioadhesive Technology secures active ingredients on the skin’s surface, demonstrated in tests on chemical UV filters. It enhances protection by adhering sunscreen to the stratum corneum, preventing deeper penetration and offering up to 8 hours of proven UV defense, even under external stress.

4. Revolutionary Textures: Helical Emulsion in Cosmetics and 3D Printing

In the realm of innovative formulations, two cutting-edge technologies are reshaping cosmetic textures, merging precision and advanced design for a superior sensorial experience.

Experis - Helical Emulsion Technology

Experis introduces a new philosophy in natural formulation with its Helical Emulsion Technology, a sensory-driven, multifunctional approach (99% natural origin). Unlike traditional emulsions, where oil droplets remain separate and release rapidly, Helical Emulsion Technology distributes oil along this helical matrix, achieving a continuous, controlled release. This structure provides a gradual, immersive sensory experience, optimizing skin affinity, enhancing penetration, and creating a seamless fusion with the skin.

ABC Texture - 3D-Printed Cosmetics

This patented 3D printing technology creates futuristic, airy textures in solid cosmetics. By incorporating up to 99% air in a controlled three-dimensional matrix, these cosmetics offer a lightweight application, reducing the greasy or sticky feel of traditional balms and sunscreens. The unique 3D structure also improves foaming in rinse-off products by increasing air and water interfaces, while the design minimizes oil content, enhancing texture and sensory appeal.

The Cosmetics IC Take

The innovations showcased at Cosmetic360 illustrate a robust evolution toward products that blend functionality with sustainability, bio-adaptive properties, and sensory appeal. These advances affirm the cosmetics industry’s commitment to both environmental responsibility and scientific innovation, positioning it to meet growing consumer expectations with high-performance, eco-responsible solutions.

Our team of experts is available to work on your latest innovations or tailor an inspiration report specific to your need.

Contact the team for more details.

TREND INSPIRATION: SS25 beauty Snapshot

Coralie Arme October 22, 2024

Palomo Spain NYFW SS25 - Lexie Moreland WWD

Following a packed SS25 fashion week schedule, the Cosmetics IC team highlights the most inspirational beauty looks from Paris, Milan, London, and New York.

Loewe (PFW) went futuristic with oversized, silver cat eyes, giving the models an otherworldly and avant-garde appeal. There was a dramatic touch of nature at Simone Rocha (LFW), where floral masks made of carnation petals mirrored the collection for a breathtaking runway look.

Chopova Lowena LFW SS25 - @laurenfreynolds

Area (NYFW) marked its 10th anniversary with a striking, all-over beauty statement. Tattoo-like stencils across models’ faces and bodies echoed the fingerprint-like patterns on the garments. Colourful clusters of gems framed the eyes in a sharp, wing-like design at Chopova Lowena (LFW), adding charm and sparkle to a standout beauty look.

Marni (MFW) made waves with ultra-arched, pencil-thin eyebrows, blending old-school glamour with avant-garde beauty. Palomo Spain (NYFW) stunned with slicked-back hair and bleached brows, paired with bold orange accents for an avant-garde finish.

Diesel’s models (MFW) stunned with colored contact lenses, pushing fashion into sci-fi territory with a look straight out of Dune. Known for their bold designs, Mugler (PFW) pushed boundaries with sharp, V-cut bangs that covered the models’ faces, adding an ultra-edgy vibe.

The CIC Take

This is just a snapshot of our analysis from Fashion Week - contact us for our latest in-depth report.

Credits:
@theimpression_
Loewe
Simone Rocha
Area
@laurenfreynolds
Marni
Palomo Spain
Diesel
Mugler

I Feel Good 2024: Innovations in Wellness

CATRIN DAVIES October 14, 2024

*Death to Stock - Photo Shauna Summers_*

The latest advancements in clean formulations and natural beauty resources were showcased over two days at the recent I Feel Good event in Paris (September 17- 18, 2024). Ingredient and product innovations underscored the growing alignment between the worlds of beauty and wellness. Trend and Digital Assistant Anna shares her top 5 discoveries from the event, where award-winning innovations signalled the dominant role biotechnology would play in the future of clean beauty.

OUR TOP 5 INNOVATIONS:

Lutein-Fortified Beverage - Eye health support drink by Azelis

Winner of the Public Acclaim Achievement Award, the Lutein-Fortified Beverage is formulated to support eye health with three clinically-researched ingredients: lutein, lycopene, and zeaxanthin. These compounds are known for protecting against blue light and supporting visual function. The drink is flavoured with mandarin and features an innovative formula that keeps the active ingredients suspended in the liquid, ensuring consistent delivery. Consuming 2 to 3 mL daily for optimal eye support is recommended.

Vecollage Fortify L - Biomimetic vegan collagen by Adara

Vecollage Fortify L, winner of the Best Innovation Award, is a skin-identical collagen obtained via biotechnology through yeast fermentation. As a biomimetic collagen, it allows for improved skin penetration and effective action. Moreover, it is highly effective in protecting the skin's network and preventing degradation. The increasing demand for collagen in skincare stands out as it aligns with the current market trend. Additionally, it has a solid ecological advantage, neither synthetic nor derived from animal sources.

Charcoal scrub - 100% upcycled exfoliating treatment by Laboratoire LBP

This scrub, awarded Best Formulation this year, uses 100% natural, upcycled ingredients for sensitive skin. It includes charcoal from the food industry, rose water from Damask rose distillation, and a moisturizing agent derived from gin distillation with barley ferment. The treatment is applied in a thick layer and offers a pleasant sensory experience while being eco-friendly and completely clean.

Pschiit Beauté - Innovative nutri-cosmetics spray by Kares-Up

Aiming to simplify beauty routines, Pschiit Beauté is a nutri-cosmetics anti-ageing buccal spray that competed in the Public Acclaim Achievement category. Unlike traditional nutri-cosmetics, which often come in capsule formats that can feel too medicinal, this innovative spray offers a more approachable alternative. With just two sprays, it delivers a potent dose of anti-ageing ingredients, making it both practical and user-friendly. Its concentrated formula provides visible results with minimal effort. The sugar-free composition and pleasant rose flavour enhance the experience, encouraging seamless integration into daily habits.

Sensol 100 - Sustainable innovation in cosmetics by GreenTech

Sensol100, a functional ingredient that competed in the Innovation category, is derived from the refinement of upcycled avocado oil. A process of decolourization and deodorization transforms the oil into a light beige, butter-like texture. Rich in essential fatty acids, including oleic, linoleic, and palmitic acids, Sensol 100 plays a vital role in skin regeneration without relying on palm oil. Suitable for all types of emulsions, it is also ideal for tinted lip balms, providing excellent pigment dispersion and a silky texture similar to silicone, allowing for the replacement of silicones and mineral oils. Additionally, Sensol 100 has a coating effect on hair fibers, ensuring easy incorporation while offering beneficial biological properties. Its 100% natural composition features a simple and effective INCI.

THE CIC TAKE

Exhibitors demonstrated how beauty and wellness are increasingly interconnected as consumers’ well-being ambitions are closely tied to their relation to beauty. The event underscored the opportunity in targeted inner-outer solutions, while the realization of exciting new formats (beverages, buccal sprays) shows the potential to unlock new beauty rituals.

Our trend research and innovation consultancy is informed by our many visits to industry exhibitions and events, where our team tracks fresh-from-the-lab innovations and ingredients. Further insight and inspiration are available in the agency’s latest trend report, Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S.

Contact the team today for more information!

PARIS INSPIRATION TOUR: Must-see stores in Le Marais

Coralie Arme September 9, 2024

Continuing our Inspiration Tour of Paris, the team highlights its most inspiring new spots in Le Marais, a neighbourhood known for its mix of independent boutiques and innovative concept stores.

Discover some of our must-sees in Le Marais:

Korres

76 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003

The Korres boutique in Paris's 3rd arrondissement symbolizes the Greek brand's commitment to natural beauty and botanical science. The store seamlessly blends apothecary tradition with scientific innovation, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere reminiscent of an old pharmacy. The boutique’s material palette of stone, wood, and glass fosters an organic ambience that reflects the ingredients' purity.

Products are displayed by range and organized by skincare category or ingredient. Posters on the walls highlight the benefits of key ingredients such as honey and Greek yoghurt.

DOVER STREET MARKET

35-37 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004

The iconic retail concept of Dover Street Market, founded by the visionary designer Rei Kawakubo, has landed in a 17th-century Parisian mansion. The store experience is rooted in discovery and driven by experimentation, distinguished by its innovative fusion of art, fashion, and culture set within a disruptive retail environment. Unlike traditional stores, DSM is conceived as an artistic space where every corner offers a new narrative. The interiors are intentionally non-linear, featuring bold art installations, innovative architectural structures, and product displays that challenge conventional retail design. Clothing is showcased on rounded, curved forms, ensuring that no piece touches the walls, creating a fluid, immersive experience. Raw materials like concrete, metal, and wood create an industrial aesthetic, contrasting with luxurious elements and contemporary artworks. The store operates as a living art gallery, allowing customers to explore and discover iconic fashion pieces in a setting that constantly evolves.

Dover Street Market Paris - Photo Cosmetics IC

DOVER STREET PARFUMS

11 bis Rue Elzevir, 75003

Dover Street Parfums is the only DSM location in the world devoted entirely to beauty, featuring a carefully curated selection of niche brands known for their unique vision. The store's design is distinctly futuristic, starkly contrasting its surroundings. Fragrances are displayed in egg-shaped niches, showcasing iconic fashion favourites like Maison Margiela, Helmut Lang, and Byredo, alongside cult brands like Arpa Studios, Golf le Fleur, and Raer, as well as scientific skincare lines. Spanning two floors, the store strongly emphasises non-binary cosmetics, reflecting a modern approach to beauty.

The store layout is designed to invite customers to explore and uncover hidden gems in its various nooks and crannies, offering a shopping experience filled with unexpected discoveries.

NEURAé

48 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004

The Neuraé concept store goes beyond merely selling products; it fosters a holistic experience that encourages customers to connect their emotional well-being with their skincare routine, establishing itself as a must-visit destination for innovative wellness spaces.

The store offers the brand's full range of products and features three distinct spaces dedicated to education and wellness. These include a meditation corner, a masterclass area, and an interactive headband experience. Here, a headband connects to a screen where the wearer’s emotions, evoked by applying Neuraé products, are visualized as artistic expressions. This interactive approach blends skincare with emotional well-being, making the store a truly immersive experience.

INSPIRATION TOURS

Our Inspiration Tours are individually tailored guides to the world’s best beauty cities. From the K-beauty capital of Seoul to the laid-back cool of Los Angeles - we know where to shop and what to see to inspire your next innovation.

Contact the team today for more information.

PARIS INSPIRATION TOUR: Around the 8th arrondissement

Coralie Arme September 1, 2024

The team recently wandered from the 8th to the 1st arrondissement, seeking inspiration in Paris’s most innovative retail spaces. Along the way, we encountered the diversity and depth of the city’s shopping scene - from dynamic pop-ups to immersive concept stores.

Discover 6 of our favorite finds from the 8th:

KAIST X AMOREPACIFIC

Centre Culturel Coréen, 20 rue la Boétie, 75008

A collaborative installation from KAIST (Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology) and the K-beauty group Amorepacific explores the fusion of technological innovation and beauty. Merging minimalist Korean design with interactive technology, the experience begins with a skin tone scanner that identifies the visitor’s ideal color palette and recommends products from the Amorepacific brand, TONEWORK. Following this, AI technology analyzes the specific undertones of the skin using a small card placed on the jaw to suggest the most suitable shade of Hera foundation, tailored to desired preferences (a luminous finish, a darker shade, or specific undertones like yellow or pink). The recommended shades can then be tested on-site, with over 205 custom foundation options available. Purchases, however, must be made online.

CAFE DE LA ROSE

52 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008

Located on the iconic Champs Elysées, the Café de la Rose Lancôme offers a multisensory experience that captures the essence of the brand through its star ingredient: the rose. Upon entering, the subtle fragrance of roses immediately immerses visitors in the Lancôme universe. The café's décor is a palette of pinks, accented with touches of gold and white, and accompanied by oversized floral motifs and elements inspired by the brand’s fragrances. A cafe counter serves rose-inspired pastries crafted by Nina Metayer (recognized as the world's best pastry chef in 2023 and 2024), which can be eaten out on the flower-covered terrace or taken away in personally customized gift boxes. The whole experience is elevated by dancing robots that pluck a Lancôme rose from a display, allowing customers to spray it with their chosen fragrance.

**CAFE DE LA ROSE - Photo Cosmetics IC**

SKIMS

60 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008

The SKIMS pop-up store (until September 3rd), situated in the atrium of the Galeries Lafayette Champs Élysées, presents an edited selection of products from the celebrity brand. Though located at the heart of the department store, the presence of SKIMS is signposted by mannequins dressed in the brand's signature shapewear, displayed prominently at the entrance and along the main staircase. The pop-up allows clients to explore the Fits Everybody line, featuring underwear, bodysuits, and t-shirts, as well as the Seamless Sculpt collection, which includes shapewear, loungewear, and ready-to-wear pieces in cotton. Additionally, select items from the swimwear collection are also available.

ON

65-67 Avenue des Champs-Élysées,75008

Cult running shoe brand ON has unveiled its second store in Paris and its largest to date. The 1,513m² flagship occupies a classic Haussmannian building, but the Parisian charm on the exterior gives way to an industrial and functional interior that has become a signature aesthetic of the performance-led brand. Stone walls, LED light panels, and concrete floors create a modern, minimalist atmosphere, complemented by industrial display units, counters, and stainless steel shelving. The store spans three levels: the first floor features tennis and training collections, the lower level is dedicated to running shoes, bags, and accessories, and the upper level showcases lifestyle products, indicating the brand's expansion into a broader fashion label.

**ON - Champs Elysées - Photo Cosmetics IC**

ISSEY MIYAKE

28 Rue François 1er, 75008

Located on Rue François 1er, the 360m², two-storey ISSEY MIYAKE store combines art and fashion in a setting characterized by contemporary architecture. The interior, crafted by Tokyo-based designer Tokujin Yoshioka, features two walls entirely covered in anodized aluminum, painted in a custom shade of orange, creating an energetic and futuristic atmosphere. The store reflects Issey Miyake's approach, emphasizing minimalist design and a detailed exploration of materials and forms, consistent with the brand's avant-garde ethos. The store is designed to function as an integrated brand experience, displaying the innovation and craftsmanship associated with the brand's global reputation. Here, visitors can discover elements from the Pleats Please, Homme Plissé, A-POC ABLE, Bao Bao, and 132 5 collections, with the Homme Plissé collection further supplemented by an explanatory corner featuring videos that delve into the details of the collection.

MAISON DYPTIQUE

7 Rue Duphot, 75001

Designed as a living space, this 400 m² boutique on Rue Duphot blends retail with culture, within the architectural elegance of a Parisian apartment. The boutique is a showcase of craftsmanship and artistry, hosting exhibitions, workshops, and events throughout the year. A key feature of the Diptyque experience in this boutique is the dedicated space for fragrance customization. In the summer, the boutique transformed to host an ephemeral space celebrating the centenary of Villa Noailles, where ten young French artists were given carte blanche to create unique decorations on the large-format candles available for sale.

INSPIRATION TOURS

Contact the team today for more information.

Sporting BEAUTY: Expanding the codes of luxury

CATRIN DAVIES August 23, 2024

Credits: Getty Images/Christian Petersen/ Shacarri Richardson

As the dust settles after the spectacular closing ceremony of the Paris Olympics, the intersection of two powerful cultural forces—luxury and sports—comes into sharp focus. In recent years, the worlds of sports and fashion have converged in unexpected ways, with athletes transforming from mere sports icons into fashion and beauty trendsetters. This evolution redefines luxury perception, moving it beyond the confines of traditional elegance and into the realm of strength, resilience, and aspirational living.

The Olympics have accelerated this trend, solidifying the connection between sports, luxury, and beauty like never before. As luxury strategist Eric Briones aptly puts it, "As luxury Maisons seek new avenues of influence, aligning with sports movements—particularly the Olympics—means becoming part of a broader cultural shift." For fashion and beauty brands, this is an opportunity to redefine female beauty as not just glamorous but also powerful and healthy—a vision that resonates deeply with a Millennial audience increasingly devoted to fitness and wellness as a lifestyle.

In this article, we explore how the codes of luxury and beauty are being expanded through the lens of sports culture, and what this means for brands looking to stay ahead in an ever-evolving marketplace.

Luxury meets Sports – Fostering common values

LVMH made a culture-changing move when it became the first luxury brand to sponsor the Olympic Games, with a partnership valued at 150 million euros (accounting for nearly 1% of the conglomerate’s 2023 profits). The investment reflects LVMH's commitment to expanding its influence far beyond athlete endorsements and its desire to align itself with the aspirations and ideals of athletes and sports fans alike.

The premiumization of the Olympics signals a clear shift in power dynamics and is part of the wider "luxuryfication" of sports, which sees brands increasingly targeting middle-class consumers seeking to emulate the lifestyles of elite athletes. What unites these, apparently distant, universes is the pursuit of excellence and quality.

From Chaumet-designed medals to French athletes wearing Berluti-designed outfits at the opening ceremony, and medal bearers donning vintage-style, distinctly French LVMH uniforms, the House’s influence has been evident. And LVMH's investment has already yielded impressive results. The brand has dominated social media conversations surrounding the Games, generating significantly more value than its competitors.

Connecting Beauty, Athletes, and Volunteers – A new era of influencers

The Olympics have always been a platform for showcasing athletic excellence, but today, they're also playing a pivotal role in ushering in a new era of influencers. With gender parity achieved for the first time and the rising influence of Gen Z, beauty culture is becoming an integral part of the sporting landscape.

Gen Z’s seamless integration of beauty into their everyday lives has led to a surge in sports and beauty partnerships, with brands like Glossier and Fenty Beauty leaning into the global exposure of the Olympics to extend their influence with this cohort.

Glossier's ongoing partnership with the US women's basketball team not only provides athletes with beauty products but also leverages their massive social media following to propel the brand even further in the minds of consumers. As the popularity of the sport, and the individual profile of its star players, continues to soar, Glossier becomes intertwined with a powerful projection of style, success, and excellence. It’s a magnetic mix, and we can expect to see more of these types of collaborations in the future.

Always a brand taking the most inclusive approach, Fenty Beauty brought another type of influencer to global attention during the Games - the volunteer. Over 600 of them, aged 18 to 21, received Fenty Beauty makeup kits and tutorials, which allowed them to create “designated looks” with guidance from an on-site MUA (Source: Forbes). The global TV exposure of volunteers during the medal ceremonies ensured Fenty products were consistently on show.

Beauty - An empowering medium in sports

Credits: Getty Images/Sam Barnes / Sha'Carri Richardson (left) and Noah Lyles (right)

Forget race times, this year, the Olympics was captivated by a new kind of performance: beauty. Athletes like Sha'Carri Richardson used bold nails, expressive hairstyles, and tattoos to tell their personal stories of resilience and self-belief. From Richardson's Olympic-themed nail gems, emblazoned with her iconic "I'm not back. I'm better" message, to Noah Lyles' electric blue "icon" nails, beauty became a platform for self-expression and empowerment.

It was evident that beauty is increasingly being embraced by athletes as a means of amplifying their stories and achievements on a global stage. In this way, beauty has become an effective medium for connecting supreme health with personal identity. This taps into a powerful cultural shift: 70% of consumers now prioritize health and appearance, and athletes embody that perfect blend (Source: McKinsey & Co - The top wellness trends in 2024 - January 2024). Beauty brands are taking notice, integrating with sports to connect with an audience where fitness is a core part of their self-identity.

The Cosmetics IC Take

In this evolving landscape, luxury brands are venturing into the sports arena, aligning their ambitions with a new cultural movement and embracing values of resilience, health, and elevated performance.

The Olympics have helped to propel a new vision of femininity, one where beauty is intrinsically linked to success. And brands are already adapting to this cultural shift by forging targeted partnerships with sports stars. Serena Williams’ Wyn Beauty, launched in April 2024, exemplifies this integration. Marketed as “makeup you can move in,” Wyn Beauty combines clean, high-performing ingredients with innovative textures designed for active lifestyles. This approach underscores a growing focus on sweat and smudge-proof formulas, addressing the needs of consumers who value both performance and aesthetics.

Similarly, the Athletic Cosmetic Company’s water-resistant mascara, The G.O.A.T. The Greatest of All Time (January 2024), highlights the shift towards cosmetics that withstand rigorous activity. These developments reflect the broader trend of blending beauty with sports, catering to the evolving demands of an active and style-conscious audience.

Further insight and inspiration on the new perceptions of luxury and the links between sport and beauty is available in the agency’s latest trend reports: Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S.

Contact the team today for more information!

Gen Alpha – Next Gen Power

CATRIN DAVIES August 20, 2024

Generation Alpha is making waves in the beauty industry as indirect purchasers but also as a major influence over other generations. However, the #SephoraKids phenomenon – young skintellectuals buying into adult-skewed beauty brands - has raised concerns regarding marketing to minors and has triggered a wave of scrutiny into beauty brand ethics. Now, this cohort of 2 billion is being catered to by a new wave of brands that speak directly to their needs.

Who is Gen Alpha?

Gen Alpha is the generation born from 2010 (to 2025), totaling over 2 billion people worldwide - making them the largest generational cohort. More than digital natives, they are also the first generation to experience remote services - from streamed entertainment to virtual classrooms.

Beauty addicts

Gen Alpha is a generation of beauty addicts, with teens now spending an average of $324 annually on core beauty products, up +23% YoY (Source: US - Piper Sander). Gen A’s projected combined spending power in 2024 exceeds $5.39 trillion, surpassing Millennials and outpacing Gen Z. It is clear that there is a huge opportunity for brands to capture the imaginations of this highly engaged demographic.

Major household influencers

Gen Alpha exert more influence over their parents than any other generation that has preceded them - 92% of Gen Alpha parents say their children regularly introduce them to products, services, or brands (Source: DKC’s analytics group). This influence extends over nearly every product category, including Prestige beauty, where spending in households with children outpaces those without (16% vs 6%, Source: Circana). Prestige fragrance sales among higher-income households (over $100,000) with children also grew at twice the rate compared to households without children (Source: Circana Q1, 2024).

Creating a new Eldorado

Progressive brands are beginning to walk the tightrope between appealing to Gen Alpha skintellectuals while mitigating the ethical dilemma of promoting responsible skincare usage.

These include brands like Indu (UK), which has just secured $5.1M in seed funding (led by Unilever Ventures) and will launch into US stores in 2025. Formulated for and by teens, Indu works with a community of over 250 young consumers to develop its product range and marketing campaigns. In June, the brand launched the Indu 101 blog - a content platform designed to educate teens about skincare and provide a safe space for experimenting with new makeup trends. Also taking an educational approach, teen skincare brand Byoma (UK) has created the “MiSKINformed” campaign to highlight misinformation in the skincare space. Bubble (US) recently collaborated with the Pixar movie Inside Out 2 (a movie about the mental health experiences of a pre-teen) to create a three-step barrier-boosting routine designed to address “your days’ ups and downs”.

The Cosmetics IC Take

Between business opportunities and ethical dilemmas, brands must consider this generation with caution. Successful brands already operating in this space (outlined above) not only share an affordable and accessible price point but also share a transparent approach that appeals to both Alphas and their parents. Brands must propose age-appropriate answers to young consumers’ needs and take on the role of educators and myth-busters (as we’ve seen Dove and Kiehl’s do to great effect recently).

As Alphas exert their influence over the industry, the agency continues to pay close attention to their behaviors and needs. To understand the specificities of this fascinating new generation of beauty consumers and explore new business opportunities, contact us today for your Gen Alpha Beauty report. In the meantime, you can explore our latest trend report, Makeup Inspiration from the USA: Higher Perspectives, where we dive into the current dynamics shaping the makeup sector.

TikTok: July 2024 Trend Inspiration

Coralie Arme July 25, 2024

Sources: @illumin_arty / @christendominique / @hayleybuix

Every month the Cosmetics IC social media team takes the pulse of TikTok to unearth the biggest beauty trends, viral hacks and buzzing products. In July, summer skin is high on the agenda with the rise of a new bronzer hack, and character-driven looks continue to capture the imagination of creative makeup fans. Read on to discover which pop icon’s look is on everyone’s moodboard this month.

1. Bronzer as concealer - New beauty hack

TikTokers are trying a new technique to correct the color of dark undereye circles. The trick is to use bronzer as a color corrector to darken the area around the eyes, blend, and then apply concealer over the top. The warm tones in the bronzer cancel out the purple tones in the dark circles and open up the features to create more definition. The trend demonstrates the expanding use of bronzers beyond traditional applications.

#concealerhack (711.8M total views in the US)

@christendominique / @mimiermakeup / @makeupbymonicaa/

2. Flower bag hack - arty vibes

TikTokers are becoming increasingly skilled at finding ways to express their creativity. This month, they are using a technique that involves filling a small plastic bag with water, tying it then painting the bottom in bright colors. The painted side of the bag is then pressed against the skin, leaving the impression of a flower. More detail is then added by hand, to create bold and intricate artworks.

#flowermakeup (33M total views in the U.S)

@illumin_arty / @natashajanewood / @hicosmina

3. Lisa Blackpink makeup - Kpop Tok

K-pop star Lisa from Blackpink has triggered a new trend on TikTok with the release of the video for her solo single “Rockstar”. Fans are transforming into Lisa’s high-glam look, with ethereal skin, double-lined iridescent eyes, super-glossy lips, and crystal accents.

#lisablackpink (794.6M total views in the U.S)

@hayleybuix / @taontm / @abigelic

The Cosmetics IC Take

Our new trend report, Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S., explores how treat culture continues to impact the U.S. beauty sector, which filters through in TikTok users’ love of high glamour and celebrity-inspired looks (#lisablackpink). The report also examines how new consumer archetypes are adopting an art student mentality to experimentation, thinking outside of the box to bring new levels of creativity and invention to the makeup space (#flowermakeup).

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

Sources: Cosmetics IC – July 2024

Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (From June 16, 2024 to July 14, 2024 vs May 19, 2024 to June 16, 2024)

Design Inspiration: Copenhagen

CATRIN DAVIES June 19, 2024

During June 12-14, international brands and designers descended on the Danish capital for 3daysofdesign. This year’s festival asked exhibitors to “Dare to Dream”, and imagine radical design solutions to today’s challenges.

Leading Scandinavian brands, including Hay, Tekla, Hem, and Muuto, took part in exhibitions and pop-ups all across the city, showcasing new products, novel concepts and unexpected collaborations. This year, a number of beauty brands also exhibited, exploring the axis of lifestyle and well-being through a series of immersive activations.

At 3daysofdesign, radical ideas tackled contemporary issues – sustainability, inclusivity, health, well-being - but with an emphasis on the type of elevated beauty, emotion and craft that is intrinsic to Scandinavian savoir-faire.

Within this dream realm, unconventional ideas emerged, carrying profound meanings that hinted at possibilities once thought unattainable. Designers explored uncharted territory with natural and recycled materials, pushing boundaries for a healthier planet and a more empowered future. While beauty brands demonstrated the overlap of lifestyle, emotion and well-being, via a series of intentional and purposeful activations. Read on to discover Cosmetics IC’s highlights:

The Ordinary x Home in Heven

The Ordinary, known for its affordable, considered skincare, collaborated with NYC-based conceptual glass studio Home in Heven to create an interactive installation that explored the theme of sustainable reuse. Riffing on the brand’s core pillar of transparency, Heven created sculptural (fully working) glass bathroom vanities, made from recycled The Ordinary bottles.

Aesop Aromatorium

Aesop introduced the multi-sensorial Aromatorium at Transcendence, a new exhibition concept in Refshaleøen. Curated by renowned Danish architect Frederikke Aagaard, Transcendence seeks to challenge our understanding, perception, and acceptance of materials in the objects and experiences around us.

The Aromatorium invites visitors to tell the time through scent - fragrances are chosen to reflect different times of the day and are dispensed directly on the wrists via a lab-like device. The travelling booth (first shown at Milan Design Week) brings Aesop’s fragrances to life in a uniquely multi-sensorial way.

The Cosmetics IC Take

The relationship between the home and personal well-being is reinforced by the growing presence of beauty brands at key global design events. Dive deeper into the latest wellness trends in our Inspiration Report: Beauty Protopia, available now.

Inspiration Tours: Introducing Berlin

CATRIN DAVIES June 13, 2024

Art Museum - Berlin - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Renowned for its avant-garde art scene, cutting-edge nightlife and conceptual retail, Berlin never fails to inspire. Cosmetics IC recently visited the cultural capital to discover how one of Europe’s most vibrant cities is becoming a key hub for Beauty inspiration. Art Director Solène Albecq reveals her three must-visit stores.

1- HIGHSNOBIETY

Highsnobiety - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Unter den Linden 40

10117 Berlin

Open: Monday to Saturday 11am-7pm

www.highsnobiety.com

ID Sheet

Purveyor of street and sneaker culture Highsnobiety has opened a new flagship store in the heart of Berlin’s Mitte district. With a raw, industrial aesthetic, the store’s interior embraces the type of utilitarian aesthetic synonymous with 20th-century Berlin architecture. The material palette includes concrete, styrofoam, glass and stainless steel, which provides the ideal minimalistic backdrop to the meticulously curated collection of menswear, womenswear, accessories, sneaker, lifestyle and beauty brands.

Inspiration Seeds

Agility is a key component of the store experience - the vast space is designed for flexibility, and will become a space for community interactions and brand activations. The aim is to build a real-life cultural hub on par with Highsnobiety’s online profile.

2- LAUNDROMAT

Laundromat - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Stargarder Strasse 74

10437 Berlin

Open: Tuesday to Friday 2pm-8pm, Saturday 11am-8pm

ID Sheet

Laundromat is a new store concept from Adidas that offers clothing rentals, curated second-hand items and collaborations with local artists. Adidas branding is kept to a discreet minimum - the aim here is to emphasise sustainability through rentals and by extending clothing lifespans. Local rental platform Pool offers a hand-picked selection of Adidas items, while the Berlin-based Westend Vintage provides an edit of cult retro streetwear and sneakers (collaborators will change regularly).

Inspiration Seeds

This is a bold concept from Adidas, which leverages Gen Z’s appetite for re-sell and second-hand clothing to elevate its sustainability message. The store, designed to resemble a laundromat, is a constantly evolving space that is intended to platform local creatives, artists and brands that share a community-centric, planet-friendly approach.

3- FRAU-TONIS PARFUME

Frau-Tonis Parfume - Copyright - Cosmetics IC / Pic by Solène Albecq

Zimmerstraße 13

10969 Berlin

Open: Monday to Wednesday 10am-6pm, Thursday to Saturday 10am to 7pm

www.frau-tonis-parfum.com

ID Sheet

A must-visit for fragrance buffs, Frau-Tonis Parfume produces contemporary, unisex scents inspired by nature and the city itself. The minimalistic philosophy extends to the brand’s marketing (there is none) and their sales approach is one of customer-led exploration. All scents are made in Berlin.

Inspiration Seeds

Customers are invited to create their own perfumes, assisted by brand scent experts, and made at the in-store workshop. Everything here is about clarity and transparency - of ingredients and process.

INSPIRATION TOURS

CONTACT US

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

Key Skincare Trends on Social Media

Coralie Arme June 11, 2024

*Deathtostock – Photography by Shauna Summers*

Social media’s role in beauty continues to expand and evolve from a place of inspiration to a source of innovation. New trends, techniques, and semantics cascade from the online universes of TikTok and IG to the offline world, changing the very culture of skincare and makeup. With the power to create new narratives that alter consumer behaviors, social media is more than just a playground – it’s an essential insight tool.

Every month, the Cosmetics IC team works alongside social media data analysts (Spate and Tribe Dynamics) to decipher the latest beauty trends, identify the most inspiring influencers and spotlight the buzzing products that are shifting the dial on beauty.

Here is a snapshot from our latest skincare social analysis, taken from March 2024:

Top 3 Skincare Brands March 2024(1) – Propelled by Younger Generations.

N° 1. (in EMV) Summer Fridays: +140% YoY

Summer Fridays celebrated its 6th birthday in March with the launch of the Jet Lag Overnight Eye Serum, building on the success of its original hero product – the Jet Lag Mask. Every birthday deserves a good party, and the brand hosted its own at The Grove Los Angeles, with a travel-inspired pop-up called “In The Clouds”. Customers could sample the new products and shop limited edition merch in a dreamy, minimalist setting.

N° 2. (in EMV) Glow Recipe: +141% YoY

The Korean-inspired brand is one of Gen Alpha’s favorite skincare brands, boosted by Tiktok (representing 33% of their EMV). It was also boosted by the launch of the Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Hue Drops at the end of February, which was promoted with a number of viral activations, including “The Dewy World of Glow Recipe” pop-up at Times Square on the 22nd of March. Customers received a complimentary engraving on a full-size purchase of Watermelon Glow Hue Drops or Dew Drops.

N° 3. (in EMV) Sol de Janeiro: +114% YoY

Always a much-talked-about brand on TikTok, Sol de Janeiro is adored by Gen Z (and increasingly by Gen Alpha), tapping the algorithm with videos that explore their product’s more playful and sensorial aspects. The new Rio Radiance SPF 50 collection (sunscreen spray, oil and lotion) was launched in March with a video starring celebrity influencer Sofia Richie Grainge.

Top TikTok Skincare Trends March 2024 – Savvy consumers find new paths for skin solutions adapted to their needs and wallets.

Skin Streaming – Simplified Skincare Routines

#skinstreaming (51.3M views)(2)– Influencer to watch: @dermguru

Skin Streaming is a trend focused on simplifying skincare routines by using fewer products that serve multiple purposes, rather than relying on a multitude of single-use products. “Skin Streaming” achieves a +34460% MoM and a +16660% YoY increase.(3)

Matte Sunscreens – Shine-Free Protection

#softmattesunscreen (13.1M views)(2) – Influencer to watch: @paularmzz

Matte sunscreen offers sun protection while avoiding a greasy or shiny finish. Trending products include Bubble’s Solar Mate and Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick. “Matte Sunscreen” achieves a +2533% MoM and a +507% YoY increase.(3)

Turmeric Masks – Homemade Radiance Remedies

#turmericfacemask (42.9M views)(2) – Influencer to watch: @anci.social

In March, Turmeric Masks experienced a surge in popularity as internet users crafted their own glow-inducing topical remedies. Turmeric’s rich antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are believed to bring brightening and radiance to the skin. “Turmeric Mask” achieves a +92% MoM and a +222% YoY increase.(3)

Buzzing products on TikTok – Highlights the ever-growing interest in K-Beauty and porcelain skin.

Cosrx – The 6 Peptide Skin Booster

#skinflooding (265.9M views)(2)

COSRX’s 6 Peptide Skin Booster, introduced in August 2023, is gaining visibility thanks to the growing interest in the skin flooding trend. Skin flooding, akin to moisture sandwiching, hydrates by layering products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods, with Hyaluronic Acid as a key player. “Skin Flooding” has surged by +2292% MoM.(3)

I’m From – Rice Toner

#ricetoner (93M views)(2)

I’m From’s Rice Toner has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, alongside brands like Tirtir, amid a growing interest in K-beauty. Rice toner, infused with rice extracts, aims to hydrate, brighten, and refine the complexion. “Rice Toner” has surged by +2955% YoY.(3)

SKNBODY – Hair Identifier Spray

#sknbodysprayfacialhairshavekit (159M views)(2)

Launched in February 2024, the Sknbody Hair Identifier Spray aims to simplify dermaplaning by coloring hairs white, making them more visible for precise shaving. When influencers began testing the product in March, it caused a big buzz on social media, with some videos clocking up over 15 million views.(2)

Learn more

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

A special thank you to our data partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate.

About Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation is an international trend forecasting and consulting agency founded in Paris in 2007. The agency is dedicated to driving beauty and wellness innovation, helping brands identify new pathways and realize long-term growth through strategic foresight and trend inspiration. The agency regularly delivers in-depth trend reports covering the global beauty markets, decoding the latest inspirations and market data, and deciphering the latest product releases to feed your brand’s innovation process. We convert insights and inspiration into bespoke leverages, tailored to specific goals and ambitions.

In a consultancy capacity, our global team of industry experts, cultural strategists, product developers and beauty chemists work closely with brands to inspire new product directions and build innovative concepts. We have worked alongside the R&D departments of some of the world’s leading makeup and skincare brands to elevate their scientific message and inspire future-proofed innovation.

Contact

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

(1) Tribe Dynamics USA – March 2024 – All social media: Instagram, Youtube, Facebook, Twitter, TikTok, Pinterest, Blog – Progression Month over Month (Mar 2024 vs Feb 2024) – EMV: Earn Media Value
(2) Cosmetics IC Manual Count – TikTok – March 2024
(3) Spate – US TikTok searches – Month over Month (Mar 2024 vs Feb 2024) & Year over Year (from Apr 2023 to Mar 2024 vs Apr 2022 to Mar 2023)

HIGHER FUTURES: Decoding the science & tech Beauty revolution

Pierre-Louis Biondi June 2, 2024

Source: DeathtotheStock: Photography by Nick Fancher

The pandemic propelled the dynamic digitalisation of our lives; we invited new technologies and scientific solutions into our homes (and bodies) as we sought new approaches and answers to rapidly emerging challenges. In the interim years we have seen the propulsion of Artificial Intelligence further expand our expectations and experience of the world, its capabilities presenting enticing opportunities for brands to develop truly amazing new products and services.

As consumers recognise that science and technology hold the keys to the quest for heightened efficacy, performance, and pleasure, investment in science-led beauty brands is exceeding that in nature-led brands by 2.5x.(1) Within this context, Cosmetics IC developed the strategic perspective of Higher Futures—a call for brands to lead with technology, leverage consumer trust in science, and address the demand for STEM-based beauty solutions while solving humanity’s major challenges.

At a special conference for MakeUp in Paris 2024, Cosmetics IC invited attendees to discover the transformative impact of a science-centric approach to beauty. Read on for an extract of our presentation, where we highlighted three strategic territories for investigation: Augmented Science, Amplified Reality and Post-natural Future, representing the opportunities that await those brands open to leading with science.

Augmented Science: Next-level efficiency

Traditional categories are being redefined by heightened expectations for performance and perfection, influenced by the ubiquity of derma procedures and the growing emphasis on well-being. This compels brands to investigate hyper-personalised solutions and at-home experiences, leaning into the latest technologies to biohack the body, boost longevity, and elevate the daily beauty ritual. AI-powered devices, smart materials and precision-personalized formulas will blur the lines between clinical and convenience.

STEM-symbiotic solutions are infiltrating all categories as society awakens to the transformative potential of new technologies. At New York Fashion Week, designer Christian Cowan collaborated with Adobe to produce an electronically activated dress meticulously crafted from hundreds of laser-cut polymer liquid crystals. The dress becomes a “dynamic canvas,” intuitively shifting in color and tone several times a second.
At VivaTech 2024, L'Oréal unveiled Cutaneous Technology, a revolutionary bioprinting process that recreates human skin in its full complexity. This breakthrough allows for inclusive and realistic testing across all skin types, paving the way for personalized beauty products and potentially accelerating advancements in dermatological research and burn treatment.

Amplified Reality: Interversal senses

Defying physical boundaries, human-tech symbiosis is creating "intraversal" realities - universal experiences that bridge the digital and physical worlds. This union opens up new possibilities, evoking joy through immersive encounters and the integration of phygital realms. These advancements not only enhance our capacity for interconnectedness but also introduce novel sensations. A new dimension of sensory experience, characterised by tactile hedonism, is emerging, enriching our perception and engagement with the world. This level of intense immersion is being adapted into the retail experience as brands re-imagine physical stores as sensory playgrounds primed for consumer engagement.

Across all categories and industries, technology is being used as a conduit to amplify sensation. At Milan Design Week 2024, Samsung Design's "Newfound Equilibrium" exhibition took visitors on a multi-sensory journey through five spaces, each exploring a different aspect of a harmonious future where technology seamlessly blends with humanity. The exhibit showcased the promise and potential of technology in enriching our lives.
At VivaTech 2024, Guerlain pushed the boundaries of fragrance with an olfactory VR experience. Visitors donned a custom headset and entered a world where iconic Guerlain scents were paired with AI-generated landscapes and the perfumer's creative whispers, showcasing the growing interplay of technology and emotion in art and design.

Post-natural Future: Deep engagement

In the future, a new intelligence will emerge to respond to the need to create sustainable models that prioritize both survival and empathy for our planet and nature. In this context, technology must be used with intention and functionality, focusing on delivering outcomes that benefit people and the environment. This vision of the future will require combining efficiency, aesthetics, and pleasure while keeping sustainability a central mission. Brands should be encouraged by growing consumer support for synthetics - 20% of U.S. consumers recognize lab-grown, natural-identical ingredients as effective and safe (22%). (2)

Forward-thinking solutions are redefining how we source, create, and utilise resources across different sectors. As one of the major polluters of drinking water across the globe, the textile industry is leading the way in eco-friendly innovation. UK brand Normal Phenomena of Life is pioneering “grown-to-order” lifestyle products, combining the expertise of a design research laboratory and a biotechnology company. The first launch includes clothing dyed with bacteria, prints made with algae ink and objects made with bio-concrete designed by microbes.
Equally in the world of beauty, science and technology are allowing for the development of sustainable, vegan solutions that offer an alternative to chemicals. Always leading with innovation, The Unseen Beauty has developed The ABSORPTION collection featuring Algae Black™, the world's first non-toxic and sustainable black pigment for beauty products.

The COSMETICS IC Take

Brands must embrace radical innovation that delivers effectiveness, sensorial pleasure and sustainability.
Imagine modular textures and fragrances adapting to climate or thermal conditions alongside multi-level experiences that engage touch, smell, and sight.
The fusion of technology with the body is taken to extremes by billionaire biohackers, but despite the sci-fi ramifications, “longevity” has quickly become a mainstream pursuit. This should inspire brands to develop new products, treatments, and rituals that promote hyper-health.
Inspiration from the advancements in sustainable sourcing and production within the fashion and textile industries can provide valuable insights for the beauty sector's journey towards a more responsible future.

Dive Deeper

Further insight and inspiration on the rise of science and technology in beauty is available in the agency’s latest trend reports: Beauty Protopia: Skincare Inspiration from the US . Contact the team today for more information!

Contact us

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

Sources:

(1). Accenture - The reinvention of beauty - 2023

(2). Mintel- Beauty and Personal Care Trends - 2023

THE RISE OF PRO-AGING: TRANSFORMING THE NARRATIVES AROUND AGE

Coralie Arme May 31, 2024

The relation to aging is in deep metamorphosis, and the Beauty industry needs to adapt to this evolution. With Gen X and Boomers living longer and looking to age gracefully, and Gen Z undertaking preventive measures like Botox, the “anti-aging” market is shifting toward a well-aging movement. The longevity narrative infuses all categories, from skincare to makeup, transforming the conversation around “anti-aging beauty” (a taboo word since 2017 in Allure USA magazine).

In its latest Inspiration Report: Beauty Protopia, Cosmetics Inspirations & Creation explores the trend for Pro-Aging Solutions and spotlights the demand for products that empower healthier (not younger) aging.

The tide is turning on anti-agism. From the success of ABC’s The Golden Bachelor (#TheGoldenBachelor hashtag has been viewed 148.4M times on TikTok – April 2024) to 88-year-old Dame Maggie Smith’s star turn in Loewe’s Spring 24 campaign, there is a groundswell of positive sentiment (and coolness) towards diverse age representations in fashion and media.

Aging Positively – The new cool mindset

Cultural momentum has been fuelled by TikTok, where a new wave of age-positive influencers, filters and viral challenges are helping to build a positive discourse around aging.

The #TurningMyMomInToMe TikTok trend (460.7M views – April 2024) joyfully sees Gen Z daughters dress like their mothers and vice-versa, while the Age Progression Filter shows users smiling as their face changes over 50 years. On TikTok, makeup for #matureskin (576.7M views - April 2024) is also gaining momentum, propelled by a new generation of "maturetokkers", such as @collen_heidemann (383.6K followers – April 2024) who started her influencer journey at age 69.

These gestures are reinforcing #agepositivity (27.8M views on TikTok – April 2024) at a time when the world must learn to adjust to the needs of an aging population. By 2050, there will be 2.1 billion people aged 60 and over, and consumers are taking control now to ensure live better for longer. Most Americans (76% according to Ipsos - American affluents spending $200B on wellness annually - July 19, 2023) actively do things to maintain or improve their health, with 92% of consumers believing the best approach to healthy aging focuses on inside-out well-being.

This mindset shift creates an opportunity for brands to inspire consumers with solutions that support and enhance healthy aging, through every life stage.

Mature Skin Makeup

With a sharp rise in searches for mature makeup (+30.3% on Google in the USA - Spate Tool - US Google Search - from Apr 2023 to Mar 2024 vs. Apr 2022 to Mar 2023), brands are stepping up to cater to this demographic. Offering "skinified" formulas, they enhance luminosity and combat signs of aging with youth-boosting ingredients.

The age-positive beauty brand Flyte.70 targets specifically the mature skin market with age-appropriate formulations that address specific issues of mature skin. The brand opened a flagship store in October 2023 in Massachusetts, with not only their brand but also 14 other brands.

At the same time, we witness a growing number of beauty brands showcasing their products' efficacy on mature skin, not only meeting consumer needs but also fostering inclusivity and authenticity. This strategic move not only boosts brand image but also sets new standards for beauty.

Here are some interesting examples from our inspiration basket from our last Makeup-Up report. The Haus Labs Triclone Skin Tech Hydrating + Depuffing Concealer (September 2023) is demonstrated on both young and mature models. It is powered with 20+ skincare ingredients including the brand’s patent-pending Fermented Arnica. Flexible pigments allow the concealer to adhere and adapt to the skin, making it comfortable for all skin ages.

Lifting and brightening results have become desired features of the healthy aging aesthetic, and will become important elements for brands to consider in their innovation. Like, Physician Formula Eye Booster Eye Lifter (October 2023) - a 2-in-1 eyeshadow that delivers an instant lift thanks to its Tri-Peptide blend.

Interest in Peptide-packed products that boost Collagen and Elastin while beautifying will continue to gain traction and become key to the “pro-aging” makeup kit. Reeson’s Lid Elixir (July 2023 - new brand) is a Peptide-rich tinted lifting serum developed for the eyelids. The brand positions itself as age-inclusive, its tagline, "Glow isn't just for 20-somethings”, actively encourages older consumers to embrace their mature skin.

Learn more

For more information on The Rise of Pro-Aging, and for details on how to obtain a copy of Beauty Protopia: Makeup or Skincare Inspiration from the US, find the Cosmetics IC team at the MakeUp in Paris Trends Space - Booth T4, May 29th & 30th 2024.

IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 2024: OPTIMAL FUTURE - THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

CATRIN DAVIES April 23, 2024

Source: Deathtothestock - Photo by Daniel Faro

Following three days of intense innovation-hunting at the recent in-Cosmetics Global 2024 (April 16 to 18, Paris), our experts have identified 4 key trends that will transform the world of cosmetic ingredients.

Our full coverage of the show will be published in the upcoming report, Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024. Below is a taster trend from the team’s comprehensive analysis - read on to discover ingredients at the cutting edge of science.

OPTIMAL FUTURE: THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

While consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of science and new technologies, suppliers are responding by developing ingredients that allow brands to create even more technically elevated products.

Growing trust in the science community (57% of respondents rate scientists as trustworthy) should spur brands to invest in forward-thinking innovations. Accenture reports that brands championing science-led claims secure 2.5 times more venture capital funding compared to their counterparts focused solely on natural and sustainable claims. This is fertile ground for beauty brands, who have an opportunity to leverage science-backed formulations and innovations as a cornerstone of trust and credibility in their offerings.

1. BIOMIMETIC BOOSTERS

The exosome boom

As exosomes gain interest in cosmetics for their application in anti-aging solutions (US Google searches for Exosome Therapy have increased +82.5% YoY*), there has been a significant increase in exosome-related ingredient innovation. The surge in exosome-based formulas will help propel the exosome market size to $3.2B in 2032, growing at a CAGR of 29.9% from 2023.

GFC Life Science – Camellia Stem-Exo (Korea)

This new exosome ingredient is derived from antioxidant-rich Camellia Callus. The exosome has a high-absorption function, due to being 184-462 times smaller than skin pore size and key claims include anti-inflammatory (18.86% reduction in Nitric Oxide) and whitening effects (13.00% reduction in extracellular melanin production).

Exolab Italia – Exo Elixir Camellia Sinensis (Italy)

Exolab has harnessed the active power of organic exosomes derived from untreated Camellia Sinensis, rich in polyphenols and catechins. Exo-Elixir Camellia Sinensis encapsulates key active ingredients like EGCG and vegetable Melatonin for neurocosmetic effects. Other innovations include exosomes derived from Alpine Rose for photo-aging, Liquorice for elasticizing, and fresh fruits for skin repair.

Source: Exolab - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

CHAMeditech – CHA-Centella CA6 Probiotic EV & CHA-Tremella TF1 Probiotic EV (Korea)

Created from the synergy of three exosomes found in lactobacilli, these probiotic ingredients claim to have superior anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects that help maintain healthy skin. The bacteria-derived exosomes calm irritation, prevent pigmentation and strengthen the barrier.

Bio-mirrors

New innovations promise next-level efficacy, mimicking biological functions to improve skin penetration and active assimilation.

LipoTrue – Frag-Brillin remastered™ (Spain)

Drawing on a vast data set that integrates various technology platforms, in silico and biomimetic Peptide design, and marine biology research, LipoTrue™ has developed Frag-Brillin remastered™, a biomimetic fragment of human Fibrillin-1 grown in plants. It enhances skin elasticity by triggering TGFβ repair response, bolstering cellasticity, and reducing wrinkle-inducing microfibril degradation, thus revitalizing skin's structural integrity and appearance.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics – Corneopeptyl™ (Swiss - recently bought by Clariant)

Corneopeptyl™ represents an innovative biomimetic Peptide, synthesized through green chemistry. It mirrors the activity of the LCE6A Protein, fortifying the corneocyte envelope to enhance skin barrier function and tackle premature aging by diminishing wrinkles and enhancing skin texture, firmness, and moisture levels.

Odycea – Opal Alga GW (France)

Opal Alga harnesses dynamic light-responsive technology, inspired by the behavior of Cystoseira Tamariscifolia, to revitalize fatigued skin impacted by modern stressors. It harmonizes the skin’s microenvironment and restores its natural circadian rhythm for renewed vitality. Inspired by algae's adaptive behavior to light cycles, Odycea aims to optimize photosynthesis efficiency, illustrating their commitment to biomimicry in skincare innovation.

2. FAST-TRACKED FUNCTIONALITY

Bio-inspired delivery systems

Several suppliers were inspired by nature to create new delivery systems that improve active access and allow for deeper penetration.

Active Concepts – AC Exovitalize (Italy)

Active Concepts is at the forefront of personal care innovation with core technology platforms including BioFermentation, Complex Actives, Extracts, Proteins, Delivery Systems, and Functional Materials. Their groundbreaking BioAuthentic Exosomes line introduces exosome-inspired delivery systems tailored for specific skincare benefits, such as AC ExoVitalize, which enhances cellular processes like oxidative phosphorylation and glycolysis, promoting a rejuvenated and lifted appearance at the cellular level.

Bicosome – Bicobiome® (Spain)

Bicobiome® targets oily scalps prone to dandruff, rebalancing the microbiome, reducing sebum formation, restoring scalp barrier function, and eliminating dandruff scales. Inspired by skin biology, Bicosome® mimics the skin's transportation system, the lamellar bodies. Upon application, Bicosomes® fuse with the skin surface, allowing smart disks to selectively penetrate targeted skin layers and deliver actives. Subsequently, Bicosome®-ordered lipid structures integrate into the skin matrix, reinforcing the barrier function without compromising skin health.

Plant-based delivery systems

Plant-inspired delivery systems leverage natural compounds and mechanisms to enhance the efficacy and bioavailability of active ingredients.

CORE Biogenesis – Peauvita™ (France)

The biotechnology firm based in Strasbourg, France, specializes in engineering plants to produce valuable Polypeptides for the cosmetic industry. Peauvita™, blends plant biotechnology with growth factors, incorporating Oleosomes - naturally occurring carriers found in all plant seeds - to ensure advanced skin delivery and controlled release, representing a transformative approach to skincare.

3. SMART BEAUTY

AI-optimized ingredients

With continued advancements in AI capabilities, suppliers are now using this technology to improve and optimize their ingredients and help find new formulation solutions.

LipoTrue – SP[AI]3™ (Spain)

SP[AI]3™ is a smart Peptide obtained in silico through AI among thousands of candidates, with optimal binding and specificity. It precisely targets key acne influencers to modulate sebum synthesis, reduce pore size and obstruction, and decrease inflammation.

AI-assisted development

Bloomage Biotechnology – Bloomcolla™ Coll III (China)

Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ employs AI assistance to accurately select fragments rich in active human collagen sites, ensuring a final sequence that is completely homologous with human collagen. Its environmentally friendly production process offers advantages in safety and purity. Notably, Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ possesses unique active sites capable of binding to 11 integrins, effectively activating cell signaling pathways and providing superior soothing and repairing abilities.

Cargill – Actigum™ Care (USA)

Actigum™ Care, with its 94.5% natural composition and innovative blend of starch and sclerotium gum, presents a sustainable alternative to traditional petro-based polymers. It provides superior functionality and sensorial enhancement through AI-based development.

The Cosmetics IC Take

New scientific developments offer outstanding benefits for beauty brands, as suppliers leverage the latest biomimetic technology to create potent, sustainable ingredients that double-down on efficacy. The integration of AI will continue at pace, promising next-level advancements and accelerated performance, hyper-attuned to individual specificities.

Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024 will be available soon.

Contact the team for more details.

(*Source: Spate NY - US Search - from April 2023 to March 2024 vs. April 2022 to March 2023)

HOT SKINCARE TRENDS ON TIKTOK: BUZZING BRANDS AND LATEST TRENDS - MARCH 2024

CATRIN DAVIES April 17, 2024

Sources: @paularmzz: Bubble - Solar Matte / @dermarkologist: COSRX - The 6 Peptide Skin Booster / @theshealyfam: Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

Derma-influences continue to dominate the SkinTok conversation, with trending products linked to routines that promise to optimize skin health, from #skinflooding to #skinstreaming. Working with data analysis supplied by our partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate, the Cosmetics IC team has analyzed the latest skincare trends and products going viral on TikTok. Read on for our cut of the most interesting innovations and inspirations to emerge during early spring, 2024.

TOP TRENDS

1 - Skin Streaming

Fewer products, serving multiple purposes: this is the pillar of the #skinstreaming trend which involves adopting a routine that gives your skin exactly what it needs, at the right time, without overwhelming it with products. This considered approach ticks the boxes on functionality, cost-saving, skin sensitivity and sustainability, meeting the prevalent needs of young consumers.

#Skinstreaming - 51.3M views/ +34460% MoM/ +16660% YoY

2 - Skin Microbiome

Ongoing conversations around skin health propels interest in the microbiome. Both customers and brands acknowledge the importance of maintaining a healthy biome as part of a holistic beauty routine, which drives interest in new products and routines adapted to reinforce the skin barrier. This conversation is fuelled by TikTok derma-influencers who are effectively communicating the importance of healthy bacteria in enhancing skin appearance.

#Skinmicrobiome - 36.3M views/ +9077% MoM/ +454% YoY

3 - Matte Sunscreen

As the warmer months approach in the West, the conversation turns to suncare. Sophisticated new formulations address the demand for a non-greasy, shine-free finish, as consumers embrace sun protection as part of their daily routine. K-beauty favorite, Beauty of Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick is gaining traction thanks to its smooth, non-sticky finish, developed with cosmetic chemist and influencer, @glowbyramon.

#Softmattesunscreen - 13.1M views/ +2533% MoM / +507% YoY

BUZZING BRANDS

1 - COSRX 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum

This multi-peptide skin booster was originally launched in August 2023 but is gaining traction due to its alignment with the #skinflooding (265.9M views) trend. Formulated with 6 different Peptides, it targets fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, all while smoothing and firming the skin. The product has become a favorite among fans of the skinflooding technique - where products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods are layered to create a moisture sandwich.

Skin Flooding - +2292% YoY

2 - I’m From - Rice Toner

The Rice Toner from I’m From has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, which is seen as a key step to achieving #GlassSkin. Infused with skin-soothing rice extracts, the toner exfoliates, hydrates, brightens and refines the complexion, while forming a protective barrier to prevent water loss and improve radiance.

#ricetoner - 93M views/ +2955% YoY

3 - Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

This novel product demonstrates the growing appetite for new innovations linked to cosmetic treatments. The spray simplifies dermaplaning by coloring the hairs on the face white, making them more visible for shaving. The product’s high visual appeal and strong before/after potential helped it create a buzz on the platform when influencers began testing the product in March.

#sknbodysprayfcialhairshavekit - 159M views

The Cosmetics IC Take

We will be publishing a deep dive into the latest viral TikTok trends and weak signals in our upcoming Social Book 2024, dedicated to skincare and wellness. Sign up to our newsletter to be the first to hear when our new report drops.

(Sources: Cosmetics IC - March 2024 / Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (March 2024 vs February 2024) & YoY (April 2023 to March 2024 vs from April 2022 to March 2023)

TREND WATCH: NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FW24/25

Coralie Arme April 14, 2024

New York Fashion Week saw designers embracing a return to classic elements, with nods to traditional craftsmanship, twisted by unconventional accents and innovation. From Protection Mode to Soft Envelop, discover Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s edit of 5 key trends to watch:

#1 Soft Envelop

This season, luxurious warmth and comfort were a key part of the narrative, where a trend for soft, enveloping fabrics and silhouettes emerged, blurring the line between clothing and blankets. Models were draped in voluminous, billowing fabrics exuding an effortless sense of comfort and style on the runway. Garments cocooned the wearer in luxurious warmth and softness, as seen in Jason Wu's blanket coats and enveloping silhouettes, Tibi's minimal approach featuring free-flowing luxurious wool, and Proenza Schouler's safety-pinned scarf-sweaters.

#2 Mob Boss

Source: Puppets and Puppets NYFW FW 24/25

Why settle for Mob Wife when you can be Mob Boss? Featuring statement coats, faux fur, and dramatic collars, this trend tells the story of a powerful woman exuding confidence and sophistication, redefining power dressing for the modern femme fatale. Linked to the #mobwife trend on social media (amassing 16.9M views on TikTok), the bold narrative was embraced by designers like Prabal Gurung with big coats and intense eye makeup, LaQuan Smith with latex-like silk skirts and oversized faux fur, and Puppets and Puppets with fuzzy shawls hiding sheer dresses.

#3 Maximalist Chaos

Celebrating abundance and inviting fearless experimentation, Maximalist Chaos is a playful call to break free from conventions and express creativity with abandon, standing at the antipode of quiet luxury. There was an overload of print and pattern at Libertine and Dauphinette while at Wiederhoeft, models donned furry and shiny headpieces, extravagant sunglasses and overstacked belts. The rise of eclectic and exaggerated styling redefined the runway with a daring spirit of excess.

#4 Protection Mode

With the rise of a "preventive" mindset led by more educated consumers, we are seeing the emergence of a new utilitarian beauty that prioritizes functional protection in our everyday lives. Designers at the forefront of fashion experimentation have embraced a laboratory-inspired aesthetic, working with materials reminiscent of vinyl or plastic to convey hygiene, safety and security. This trend for utilitarianism pushes the boundaries of fashion and gives rise to confronting aesthetics - from Helmut Lang's secure wrapping techniques to Tory Burch's vinyl-like trench coats and Thom Browne's protective overshoe-style footwear.

#5 Grey Pride

Recent trend reports from Cosmetics IC have highlighted the rising impact of the "Aging Well" movement, a narrative that has cascaded onto the catwalks, where older models exude timeless elegance and sophistication. This season represented a significant shift, defying ageist standards and embracing beauty diversity, with models from brands like Batsheva, Bevza, and Christian Cowan showcasing that style is ageless, encouraging a celebration of beauty across all stages of life.

The Cosmetics IC Take

This season, designers embraced boldness and inclusivity, celebrating individuality while merging fashion and function. From empowering styles to embracing age diversity, each trend reflects a dynamic shift toward self-expression and innovation. This also opens up new territories in the beauty landscape, paving the way for innovation and new narratives.

Learn more

Our latest reports: Inspiration Book: NYFW Fall/Winter 24/25, and What’s Up #20 - Inspiration from the U.S., explore the latest trends in beauty, contextualized with emerging consumer behaviors, cutting-edge innovations and cultural influences.

Discover the trends worth leaning into and the new territories to explore, by ordering your copy today.

EXTRA-VAGANCE: BRINGING THE EXTRA-ORDINARY INTO THE EVERYday, MAKEUP IN LOS ANGELES 2024

Coralie Arme April 2, 2024

As TikTok’s influence over beauty continues to ascend, luxury brands are adapting viral trends to their house codes, while enshrining the levels of exclusivity and innovation that set them apart. Joining Leïla Rochet to decode the evolution of luxury beauty was Eileen Kim, Head of US Innovation and Research at Chanel for one of Cosmetics IC Beauty Talks hosted in MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024.

Source: Leila Rochet / Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation - MakeUp In Los Angeles 2024 / Eileen Kim

Thanks to their worldwide innovation centers, Chanel's scientific team is challenged to push back its limits and seek to develop new technologies and innovations. Motivated by the different regulations on which they depend in the creation and formulation of their products, particularly in terms of sustainability, but also by the needs and ideas of new generations, Chanel is keen to push their research to an even higher level and believes in the continuous drive to do better.

Leïla Rochet: Can you explain a little bit more about your role at Chanel?

Eileen Kim: Chanel has innovation centers across the world. I have the pleasure of leading the US Innovation and Research Center. Our mission overall is to seek out new technologies and to also push innovation for future skincare and makeup products, worldwide. We also partner with universities, startups, and industry experts, who can help us to seek out new technologies.

Leïla: Chanel is known for its unique texture, exceptional formulation, and very high-quality finish. What are the primary challenges when it comes to reaching those performance levels?

Eileen: We have regulations now that impact the products we create, and the ingredients that we use. This helps us to find new solutions. Another wonderful challenge is the new generation of consumers and their ideas. It’s so important for us to empathize with them, to understand their needs, their values, and what influences what they're going to buy and how they're going to use it. And of course, we have sustainability and CSR - that's a wonderful challenge that is at the heart of innovation today.

Leïla: Could you talk a little about one of your most recent product launches?

Eileen: The 31 launch is a beautiful example because it captures the essence of Chanel. The product packaging was inspired by the iconic staircase at 31 rue Cambon, while the refillable case is a new innovation. The formula itself has been carefully designed with different ingredients, including Gardenia oil that is specific to Chanel, and an active that brings skincare benefits to the lips. The beautiful packaging is a part of Chanel that you can keep, and pass down. It's a really nice example of innovation, legacy, and creation.

Leïla: How do you keep up with the trends and stay ahead of the latest innovations?

Eileen: That's a big challenge! We have a team of scientists who are experts in chemistry, and they go out and seek new technology and envision what this technology can bring. It’s important that we not only look at the beauty industry but at pharma, food, and agriculture… Inspiration can come from anywhere.

Leïla: How do you envision the future? You’ve talked about naturals and sustainability - how do you see that market evolving?

Eileen: I think sustainability regulations are having a really positive impact on our industry. We have to find advanced solutions to create the next generation of products, so sustainability and CSR are really pushing innovation forward. This is causing scientists like us to find new solutions that will be more efficient, better for the environment, better for people. I feel regulations will bring our products to a new level, and we can be proud of that.

We see lots of AI tools. I hope it will advance how we work, how we discover. And then there’s Gen Z and Gen Alpha. I think they're a very interesting generation, and luxury will be a way for them to self-express. I think what the beauty industry has always been, is purposeful. I'm really happy that I am part of that and I'm looking forward to seeing where it goes in the future.

KEY TAKEAWAYS

TikTok should be a core element of your brand strategy as a source of inspiration for future innovation, and increasingly as a retail outlet
Authenticity is key when it comes to social media virality and meaningful engagement
Social media users are interested in products and brands linked to luxury moments, events, and experiences (concerts, red carpets, etc)
Gen Z are ingenious at finding ways to feed their appetite for luxury on a budget (e.g., dupes and ‘repotting’ into luxury brand packaging)
Explore ways of introducing novel luxury gestures into consumers lives - from keepsake packaging to extravagant new applications (e.g., teeth gems, hair makeup)

COSMeTICSEEDS

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1. Eco-Conscious Innovations: The Rise of Microplastic Alternatives in Cosmetics

2. Nature’s Defense Mechanisms: Biomimetic Skincare Innovations

3. Advanced UV Defense: Long-Lasting Protection and SPF Boosting

4. Revolutionary Textures: Helical Emulsion in Cosmetics and 3D Printing

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CONTACT US

Top 3 Skincare Brands March 2024(1) – Propelled by Younger Generations.

Top TikTok Skincare Trends March 2024 – Savvy consumers find new paths for skin solutions adapted to their needs and wallets.

Buzzing products on TikTok – Highlights the ever-growing interest in K-Beauty and porcelain skin.

Augmented Science: Next-level efficiency

Amplified Reality: Interversal senses

Post-natural Future: Deep engagement

The COSMETICS IC Take

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OPTIMAL FUTURE: THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

1. BIOMIMETIC BOOSTERS

2. FAST-TRACKED FUNCTIONALITY

3. SMART BEAUTY

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Forecasting and Consulting office specialized in Beauty Innovation