MULA 2026 BEAUTY TALK #2: CLEAN BEAUTY 2030

Credits: Chris Abatzis via Deathtostock

Redefining Growth, Purpose, and Performance

At MakeUp in Los Angeles, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation hosted a new edition of its Beauty Talk series, bringing together industry leaders to explore the next phase of responsible beauty.

Moderated by Leila Rochet, founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, the session “Clean Beauty 2030: Redefining Growth and Performance” featured Victor Casale, co-founder of MOB Beauty and chairman of Pact Collective, and Iva Teixeira, founder of The Good Face Project.

The conversation revealed a decisive shift: clean beauty is no longer the destination, it is the starting point. As the industry moves toward 2030, brands must move beyond ingredient exclusion to embrace a broader framework combining science, transparency, sustainability and performance.


From Clean Claims to System Thinking

To frame the discussion, Leila Rochet highlighted how the clean beauty movement has matured dramatically over the past decade. What once functioned as a niche positioning has now become a mainstream expectation.

“Clean beauty is maturing beyond niche to become a mainstream category.” - Leila Rochet

But the future of responsible beauty requires a more holistic perspective. Rochet outlined four interconnected territoriesshaping the evolution of the category:

  • Supreme Health - safe, science-driven formulations supporting long-term wellbeing

  • Planet Revival - climate-aware ingredients and sustainable product design

  • Ethical Ecosystems - fair sourcing and biodiversity protection

  • Hedonistic Nature - reconnecting beauty with nature, rituals and emotional wellbeing

Together, these dimensions signal a shift from clean formulations to systemic responsibility.


Clean Is the Baseline

According to Iva Teixeira, the clean beauty movement has reached a stage of structural standardization. Retailer “no lists” and ingredient restrictions have largely stabilized, meaning the concept of clean is no longer a differentiator.

Clean beauty has basically reached a framework of understanding… it has become the platform on top of which new dimensions will emerge.” - Iva Teixeira

The next competitive frontier will therefore revolve around performance, advanced science, and new ingredient ecosystems, including biotechnology and AI-supported formulation.

Technology is already transforming product development by allowing chemists to evaluate regulatory compliance during the formulation stage, dramatically accelerating innovation.


Regulation Is Accelerating Change

Regulatory evolution is another major force shaping the future of clean beauty. Victor Casale pointed out that global cosmetic innovation is increasingly guided by European regulatory standards, which often set the pace for ingredient reformulation and environmental progress.

Clean used to be about a ‘no list’. Today it includes packaging, sustainability and ethics, and regulation is forcing that evolution.” - Victor Casale

At the same time, regulatory frameworks are becoming more fragmented. In the United States alone, multiple states are developing their own cosmetic laws, creating new complexity for brands operating globally.


Packaging: Beauty’s Next Transformation

Beyond ingredients, packaging emerged as one of the most urgent challenges for the industry. Casale shared how MOB Beauty was designed around refillable and compostable packaging systems, aiming to rethink the lifecycle of beauty products.

We’ve spent 50 years teaching consumers that heavier, shinier packaging means luxury. But the package lasts hundreds of years while the product lasts three months.” - Victor Casale

Scaling these solutions, however, requires systemic change across the entire supply chain, from packaging manufacturers to brand design strategies.


Commitment as the New Competitive Advantage

While technologies and regulations are accelerating change, Casale emphasized that transformation ultimately depends on industry commitment.

“My formula for success is commitment. If you commit to doing the right thing, you will overcome many of these obstacles.” - Victor Casale

Brands that embed sustainability and transparency into their culture - not just their claims - will be best positioned for the next decade.


The Strategic Outlook for 2030

Looking ahead, three strategic priorities are emerging for beauty innovators.

Ingredient Reinvention

Replacing petroleum-derived molecules is becoming a central priority for the industry. Biotechnology and fermentation technologies are enabling a new generation of ingredients that combine improved sustainability with high performance.

As Iva Teixeira emphasized, this transition is already underway across the industry:

Number one is replacing petroleum-derived molecules in their formulas.” - Iva Teixeira

Major beauty companies are already investing in biotech platforms capable of producing next-generation actives designed to reduce reliance on petrochemical inputs.

Packaging Transformation

Packaging is the next major frontier. Developing refillable, compostable and circular systems will be critical as brands rethink the lifecycle of beauty products and reduce long-term environmental impact.

Radical Transparency

Transparency is evolving beyond ingredient disclosure. Brands must communicate not only what is inside their products, but also how those products are formulated, manufactured, and sourced.

As Rochet concluded, the future of beauty will be defined by brands capable of moving beyond clean toward measurable impact and credibility.

“Transparency must become your superpower. It’s not about saying things anymore, it’s about proving them.” - Leila Rochet

MULA BEAUTY TALK #1: BEAUTY'S OPTIMIZATION ERA

Credits: Equinox

How Performance, Science and Technology Are Redefining the Industry

At MakeUp in Los Angeles, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation hosted the first session of its Beauty Talk series, exploring how the industry is entering a new phase defined by performance, efficiency and technological integration.

Moderated by Leila Rochet, founder of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, the session titled “The Optimization Era: How Beauty Is Evolving Toward the Next Level of Efficiency” brought together Gloria Ryu, Chief Product Officer at Haus Labs by Lady GagaMichelle Lee, founder and CEO of Monologue and former Editor-in-Chief of Allure, and Max Farrow, Marketing Director at Nuon Medical.

Together, they explored how beauty is shifting from aspiration and storytelling toward measurable performance systems, driven by science, devices, and increasingly sophisticated consumer expectations. 



Entering the Age of Flow

To frame the discussion, Leila Rochet introduced the broader cultural context shaping the beauty industry today. Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s latest foresight report, The Age of Flow, highlights a world defined by constant acceleration and adaptation.

Technological intensity, AI-driven systems, climate instability and evolving social norms are transforming consumer expectations. Beauty is no longer static or purely aesthetic, it is becoming adaptive, experiential and performance-driven.

Within this landscape, Rochet identified the rise of what Cosmetics IC calls the Optimization Era, where beauty intersects with wellness, sports science and longevity culture.

Consumers increasingly approach beauty as a performance ecosystem, combining skincare, devices, lifestyle habits and recovery strategies.

Performance Becomes the New Beauty Standard

For Gloria Ryu, the transformation of Haus Labs illustrates how deeply the industry is shifting toward science-led product development. When she joined the brand five years ago, the mission was to reposition the company from a celebrity-driven label into a true innovation platform.

We saw that the market was clearly shifting from a concept-led approach to a more performance-led one.” - Gloria Ryu 

The repositioning required rethinking the entire product ecosystem, from ingredient selection and formulation to packaging design and testing protocols. Today, performance is validated through rigorous real-world stress testing, including stage testing with Lady Gaga and professional dancers to ensure products remain “life-proof.”

The goal, according to Ryu, is to operate at the intersection of science and artistry, using technology to enhance creative expression rather than replace it.

The Rise of the Performance Consumer

Michelle Lee offered a perspective from her experience in editorial and brand development.

Over the past decade, the beauty consumer has become increasingly aware of ingredients and scientific claims. However, Lee emphasized that performance remains the ultimate decision driver.

“Ultimately it still comes down to the user experience- how well something works.” - Michelle Lee 

Consumers may be more informed than before, but scientific storytelling must remain accessible and emotionally engaging. For brands, this means balancing clinical credibility with compelling narratives, ensuring that science supports the experience rather than overwhelming it.

Devices and Technology Redefine Efficacy

Another major dimension of the Optimization Era is the growing convergence between cosmetics, medical technology and engineering. Companies such as Nuon Medical are pushing this shift by integrating clinical-grade technology directly into consumer beauty products, enhancing the performance of formulations and accelerating innovation cycles.

As Max Farrow explained, technology is not only improving product efficacy, it is also transforming how quickly innovations can be developed and brought to market.

“We are shortening the route to market, developing functional prototypes in days instead of months.” - Max Farrow 

This acceleration reflects a broader shift in the industry, where beauty is increasingly treated as a high-performance system combining formulation, device technology and real-time development capabilities.

Science Is Raising the Bar for Innovation

As scientific literacy grows, both product development and marketing standards are evolving rapidly. Ryu noted that the modern beauty consumer is far less tolerant of vague scientific language or borrowed credibility.

“Consumers are much less tolerant of vague scientific language, you need to be able to prove what you say.” - Gloria Ryu 

This shift is forcing brands to invest more heavily in testing, validation and R&D partnerships in order to build lasting credibility. In many ways, the industry is entering a phase where innovation must be both visible and provable.

The Strategic Challenges Ahead

Looking forward, the panelists identified several major challenges shaping the future of beauty innovation.

Hyper-Accelerated Innovation

Technology, AI and global beauty ecosystems are compressing product development cycles while raising expectations for differentiation.

Global Influence

K-Beauty, J-Beauty and emerging international markets are reshaping ingredient culture, textures and product formats at unprecedented speed.

The Battle for Attention

As Michelle Lee noted, beauty brands are no longer competing only with other beauty brands.

“Our competitors today are not just other beauty brands, they’re anything that takes attention.” - Michelle Lee 

Social platforms, streaming services and digital culture are redefining how brands must capture and sustain consumer interest.

The Future: Beauty as a Performance System

As the discussion concluded, one message became clear: beauty is evolving into a holistic performance system. Products, devices, wellness rituals and technology are converging to deliver optimized outcomes across skin, body and lifestyle. For brands, the challenge will be not only to innovate, but to do so with clarity, authenticity and measurable impact.

As Gloria Ryu summarized, the future of beauty will depend on maintaining the courage to innovate deeply rather than superficially.

“As the market gets smarter, superficial differentiation gets exposed faster.” - Gloria Ryu 

In the Optimization Era, true innovation will belong to brands capable of combining science, performance and meaning into one coherent system.

The cic take

The Optimization Era signals a structural shift in how value is created in beauty. Performance is no longer a differentiator, it is the baseline. What will define the next generation of leaders is the ability to orchestrate ecosystems rather than products - combining formulation, devices, data, and experience into cohesive, outcome-driven systems.

The risk ahead lies in over-indexing on technology at the expense of meaning, or conversely, relying on storytelling without substance. In a landscape where consumers are both highly informed and attention-fragmented, only brands that can align credibility, clarity, and cultural relevance will sustain impact.

Ultimately, the Optimization Era is not about doing more, but about doing better, with precision, coherence, and intention.

To learn more about the agency’s latest report, contact our team.

Paris Inspiration Tour - The New Must-See Boutique Openings

Picture Credit - Fashion Network; Firn Paris; Marimekko

Continuing our exploration of Paris’s ever-evolving retail landscape, our team recently set out to uncover some of the city’s most exciting new boutique openings. From innovative beauty concepts to fully immersive brand worlds, these fresh addresses highlight how Paris continues to set the pace for experiential retail.

Discover our must-see destinations in the city:

FIRN - Biotech Forward Beauty

Launched in July 2025 by Jimmy Fairly founder Sacha Bostoni and Dr. Fred Zülli, a Swiss pioneer in alpine stem cell technology, FIRN opened its first experiential boutique in the heart of Paris in November 2025 (the second just opened in le Marais). At the core of FIRN’s innovation is its exclusive STM30® technology, that combines alpine plant stem cells, with glacial microorganisms. Inspired by high-mountain laboratories, the boutique is designed to evoke a sense of cool precision and scientific purity, reflecting the brand’s alpine origins and research-driven ethos.

51 Rue Montorgueil, 75002 Paris



Gentle Monster - Avant-guarde K-eyewear.

Known for its boldly styled sunglasses and eyeglasses, as well as its cutting-edge artistic collaborations, South Korean luxury eyewear brand Gentle Monster opened its first Paris flagship in October 2025. Spanning three floors, the space embodies Gentle Monster’s philosophy of fusing experimental design with an exploration of human emotions. At its core stands the striking Giant Head Kinetic Object, created by the Gentle Monster Robotics Lab.

The new store delivers a fully immersive sensory experience, transporting visitors into the brand’s avant-garde universe.

132, Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris


Marimekko - Modern Scandinavian Design.

Opened in October 2025, Marimekko’s new Paris boutique marks the Finnish design house’s first permanent store in Central Europe. Designed in a distinctly Scandinavian style, the store draws inspiration from the architecture of Marimekko’s Helsinki printing house and it’s signature vibrant colours . The space plays with a striking contrast between industrial materials and vivid hues, creating an urban canvas animated by the brand’s signature joie de vivre.

120, Rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75003 Paris


Le Rouge Français - Botanical Pigment Cosmetics.

Le Rouge Français opened its first physical boutique at 16 Rue de Turenne, offering an immersive introduction to the brand’s plant-based approach to beauty. Committed to a level of naturalness beyond organic standards, the brand develops patented formulas and all the color pigments from flowers rich in active compounds. Spanning two floors, the space highlights its distinctive expertise in lipsticks and cosmetics derived from tinctorial plants, guiding visitors through a sensory journey shaped by natural dyes and botanical color. Conceived as a living space dedicated to the art of beauty, the boutique reflects the brand’s balance of science, nature, and understated elegance.

16 Rue de Turenne, 75004 Paris

Houbigant - 250 years of heritage.

Opened in September 2025 to mark the brand’s 250th anniversary, Houbigant unveiled its first-ever flagship store worldwide, celebrating its legacy as one of the oldest perfume houses.

Designed by Florentine architect Filippo Burresi, the boutique pays homage to the brand’s rich heritage, drawing inspiration from the refined grandeur of Parisian palaces and historic residences. Spanning 80 sqm, the flagship showcases the complete Houbigant fragrance collection alongside Perris Monte Carlo, Perris Portofino, and Perris Swiss Laboratory skincare, creating a refined and immersive destination for fragrance connoisseurs.

62 Rue François 1er, 75008 Paris


The CIC take
Paris’s newest boutique openings highlight how beauty retail is evolving beyond traditional shopping into immersive brand experiences. From science-led skincare laboratories to heritage perfume houses reimagined through contemporary design, these spaces reflect a growing shift toward storytelling, emotion, and experiential engagement at the point of sale. Today, innovation is as much about environment and connection as it is about product performance.

Inspiration Tours
Our Inspiration Tours are individually tailored guides to the world’s most inspiring beauty cities. From the K-beauty capital of Seoul to the laid-back cool of Los Angeles, we know where to shop and what to see to spark your next innovation.

For a closer look at the retail experiences shaping the future of beauty, contact us to arrange a bespoke inspiration tour of Paris with our team.

The Age of Flow: 5 Key Trends for 2026 and Beyond

Credits: Shauna Summers via Deathtostock

In our 2026 White Book, the Cosmetics IC team decodes the societal shifts and breakthrough beauty innovations that will transform the shape of the industry for the years ahead in 2026 and beyond.

The beauty industry is entering a new phase of transformation - one shaped by constant movement, uncertainty, and acceleration, but also by a growing desire for control, grounding, and intention. In a world marked by technological intensity, AI-driven systems, climate instability, and shifting social norms, consumers are recalibrating. Age, categories, and rigid frameworks are losing relevance, replaced by fluid identities, expert knowledge, and deeply personal choices. Beauty is no longer static or purely aesthetic: it has become adaptive, experiential, and emotionally strategic.

The Age of Flow reflects this moment. It describes a cultural shift where consumers learn to navigate extremes: between performance and care, indulgence and discipline, technology and humanity. Flow is about movement with purpose - choosing when to accelerate, when to protect, when to indulge, and when to return to what feels essential.

“Beauty now operates as a tool for alignment. From amplified physical performance and medi-wellness to protective rituals, sensorial pleasure, human expertise, and radical self-expression, brands are responding to a consumer who is more informed, more demanding, and more intentional than ever.” said Leïla Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

Discover 5 inspiration territories to fuel your future innovation:

1. Superhuman Future: The optimization era

Across sport, wellness and beauty, performance is no longer instinctive or episodic. It is becoming structured, intentional and system-led. Consumers are replacing routines with protocols: calibrated sequences designed to regulate the body, improve efficiency and deliver measurable outcomes. Strength is no longer about appearance, but about functional capability, durability and long-term autonomy.

This philosophy is embodied by the rise of fitness-as-a-sport formats such as HYROX, which reward consistency, endurance and functional strength rather than elite specialization. Luxury fitness brands reinforce this mindset. Equinox’s It’s Not Fitness, It’s Life platform reframes physical mastery as a lifelong philosophy, positioning commitment and bodily ownership as expressions of identity.

Performance values increasingly extend into fashion and beauty: YSL Beauty’s Lash Latex Mascara borrows the language of training, framing lashes through repetition, endurance and lift rather than instant enhancement.

Recovery itself becomes a performance strategy. Nike x Hyperice’s Hyperboot integrates warm-up and recovery directly into footwear, while beauty adopts tech-enabled protocols such as Vagheggi x Nuon Medical’s 75.25 Longevity Day Cream, where professional treatment logic is translated into controlled at-home use.

In the future, beauty will operate as a system of optimization, balancing performance, recovery and longevity.

2. HUSH STATE: Protective harmony

In an age of intensity and extremes, calm is no longer passive. It becomes regulated, designed and strategic. As environmental stress, climate volatility and mental overload intensify, consumers are no longer seeking escape, but equilibrium, a way to protect internal balance while navigating external instability.

This shift is reflected in a new aesthetic language built on softness, restraint and visual breathing space. Pantone’s Cloud Dancer, described as “a discreet hue offering a promise of clarity,” embodies this desire for simplification and sensory relief. In culture, Rosalía’s latest album explores spirituality through vulnerability and contradiction, signalling quieter, more introspective forms of transcendence.

Protective harmony extends into physical environments. Hospitality increasingly prioritises silence, slowness and nervous-system regulation, positioning calm as a core luxury value. Aman pioneered this approach by redefining the hotel as a place of retreat rather than stimulation, where architecture and pacing support introspection and recovery.

In beauty, protection begins with real-time regulation. Cooling is reframed as active defence through products such as TIRTIR’s Ice-Cooling Cloud Cream. Skincare also addresses stress-induced responses directly, with Beekman 1802’s Magnesium Milk Barrier Reset Jelly Mist targeting cortisol-related irritation.

In the future, calm will function as a form of sustained flow, maintaining balance without stopping movement.

3. LIBERATING REWARDS: Pleasure by design

Under growing conditions of control and optimization, pleasure becomes purposeful. Sensation is no longer ornamental, but a driver of engagement, efficiency and momentum. As daily life becomes increasingly disciplined, consumers actively seek moments of release that fuel desire rather than disrupt performance.

Hyper-specific pleasure cues now trigger instant emotional response. The resurgence of banana as a sensory obsession illustrates this logic. Prada’s viral Banana Yellow Lip Balm transforms a familiar motif into a refined beauty object, while AMUSE’s Banana Lip Oil amplifies tactility through texture, scent and oversized applicators, extending pleasure into immersive retail experiences.

Beauty increasingly draws from collective food culture, turning everyday indulgence into emotional capital. Lidl’s Eau de Croissant elevates a mass-market icon into a sensorial object, while collaborations with pastry chefs such as Nina Métayer for Burberry Goddess translate taste into scent, texture and narrative.

Pleasure also becomes functional. Fel Beauty’s Kissylips Cushy Shine Lip and Cheek Balm positions emotional uplift as a measurable benefit, while brands such as Tree Hut place sensory excess at the core of their identity.

In the future, pleasure will be deliberately designed as a performance accelerator, sustaining engagement and motivation.

4. HANDS OF MASTERY: Human expertise, elevated authority

As automation, algorithms and AI accelerate production, human expertise becomes increasingly valuable. Speed and flawless outputs are no longer sufficient. What gains value instead is mastery: the visible mark of skill, intention and trained judgment.

Craft and process regain cultural significance. Erewhon’s expansion illustrates how artisanal food culture and curated craftsmanship function as luxury markers, while growing interest in cooking and grocery tourism reflects a broader desire for discernment and know-how.

In luxury, intellectual authority becomes aspirational. Miu Miu’s Making of Old campaign reframes aged leather as intentional, positioning time and process as authorship rather than flaw. Objects are increasingly evaluated through knowledge of materials, methods and expertise.

In beauty, trust is rebuilt through expert-led propositions. DUA by AB foregrounds Augustinus Bader’s TFC5™ technology, while The Ordinary’s Ingredients Book reinforces consumer literacy. At the same time, makeup artistry regains authority through artist-founded brands (m.ph, Hung Vanngo Beauty…) and figures such as Nina Park.


In the future, beauty will privilege human mastery over automation, positioning expertise as its ultimate form of authority.

5. REBEL IDENTITY: Rule-breaking reinvention

As social norms fracture and traditional authority erodes, identity becomes an act of disobedience. Age, gender, aesthetics and usage conventions are increasingly rejected in favor of self-authored expression. Neutrality is refused, and polish gives way to provocation.

Fashion reclaims its role as cultural resistance. Rick Owens’ Tower collection at Paris Men’s FW26 exaggerates symbols of authority to strip them of power, while Dilara Findikoglu’s Cage of Innocence dismantles ideas of virtue and restraint through deconstruction and symbolism.

This rejection of refinement extends to beauty. The rise of the “messy girl” mindset embraces imperfection as authenticity, echoed in Dior Men FW26’s punk-inflected hair and exaggerated textures. Beauty becomes a language of tension, excess and visibility.

Brands increasingly encourage amplified self-expression. MAC’s collaboration with Chappell Roan sharpens makeup as spectacle, while experimental formats like Zara Hair’s Chromatic Gel or About Face’s Shimmerstick invite users to embrace the unconventional.

In the future, beauty will operate as a tool for rule-breaking self-invention: fluid, expressive and unapologetic.

The CIC Take

For an up-close look at our 5 Key Trends for 2026 and Beyond visit our booth (K48) at the upcoming MakeUp in Los Angeles (March 4 & 5) where our CIO Leila Rochet will personally talk you through a selection of international products at our Inspiration Bar, curated to illustrate many of the themes above. More information here.

The full version of our 2026 White Book: The Age of Flow is available now, contact us for more information.

MEN FALL/WINTER 2026 - Between rupture, preservation and emotional function

Dries Van Noten / Zegna / Prada - Men Fall/Winter 2026

At Men’s Fall/Winter 2026, a number of designers leaned back into conservative dress codes (and casting), traditional silhouettes, and established masculine markers. Yet within this context, others carved out a necessary rupture, reminding us that masculinity can still be theatrical, fluid and defiantly expressive.

Rather than chasing novelty, the season focused on reworking the familiar: questioning class structures, destabilising good taste, and navigating the tension between comfort and discomfort. Clothes became tools for reflection on identity, power, preservation and the very real emotional and physical needs of an uncertain future.

Here are five defining themes that shaped Men’s FW26.

1. MAKING NEW FROM THE FAMILIAR - Beauty, ugliness and the search for new beginnings

Dries Van Noten / Dior / Prada - Men Fall/Winter 2026

At the core of FW26 was a desire to rework the known: silhouettes, archetypes, textures… into something emotionally and culturally relevant. Designers leaned into contrast: comfort versus discomfort, refinement versus decay, beauty versus awkwardness.

At Dries Van Noten, this took the form of a coming-of-age narrative. Knitwear became the emotional anchor of the collection: sweaters as memory-holders, offering warmth, safety and nostalgia at a time when the world itself feels unstable. Patterned, striped, patchworked and colour-blocked knits layered familiarity with experimentation. Archetypal silhouettes were loosened from their boundaries, suggesting growth, self-expression and the uncertainty of adolescence.

At Dior, Jonathan Anderson pushed familiarity into eccentricity. Aristocracy was reimagined, not as polished privilege, but as something fractured, theatrical and deliberately uncomfortable. Punk-inflected references to Paul Poiret, exaggerated silhouettes, degraded textures and rejected polish created character-driven looks that thrived in unease. This was escapism through excess: a refusal of what modern “refinement” should look like.

Prada approached the familiar through tension and contradiction. Broken boundaries, working-class decadence and a deliberate questioning of good taste defined the collection. The mismatched marble fireplaces and fractured interiors of the set felt like metaphors for a destabilised world. Across the looks, signs of wear and distress appeared repeatedly: peeling fabrics, frayed edges left raw, creased leathers, materials seemingly in states of fatigue. Yet these elements were always held within Prada’s clarity and refinement.

Across these collections, a fundamental question was asked: what happens when we stop idealising the familiar and start degrading it instead?

2. DECONSTRUCTION AS SOFT POWER - Acts of disobedience and the mocking of authority

Sacai / Rick Owens / Willy Chavarria - Men Fall/Winter 2026

Men FW26 saw deconstruction evolve from a design technique into a method of protest. Rather than overt slogans, designers employed symbolism, hybridisation and irony to challenge established power structures.

At Sacai, Chitose Abe’s signature hybridisation took on new urgency. Garments were engineered to challenge structure itself: jackets reworked so that different sections moved independently yet remained connected: a visual and technical metaphor for coexistence and tension. This dismantling of order echoed the global unrest beyond the runway. The soundtrack, Queen’s I Want to Break Free, left little ambiguity. The set itself, a drywall partition punched through, referenced strength and liberation. Chitose Abe described it as expressing “the power to break through the wall, to be free.”

Willy Chavarria continued to position fashion as a space for visibility, dignity and emotional truth. Eterno was rooted in representation and love as acts of resistance. The casting conveyed presence and humanity, bodies asserting their right to exist, be seen and take up space. Colour became a key instrument: deep purples, mustard, lipstick red, pool blue and canary yellow clashed unapologetically.

At Rick Owens, political parody took center stage. In Tower, the designer subverted symbols of authority, mocking them through exaggeration and theatricality. Watchtowers, cell towers and tower blocks, all symbols of surveillance, control and isolation, were reinterpreted as hollow monuments. By ridiculing power, Rick Owens stripped it of its dominance.

Together, these designers reframed deconstruction as cultural resistance: subtle, symbolic, and emotionally charged.

3. CLOTHING AS HEIRLOOM - Preservation, simplicity and the wardrobe as legacy

Zegna / Hermès / Auralie - Men Fall/Winter 2026

In contrast to excess and protest, this season’s runways also made space for quiet permanence. Several designers reasserted the wardrobe as a site of preservation, a place where garments hold history, not trends.

At Zegna, clothing was positioned as heirloom. The idea of passing down garments, not just buying them, reinforced a philosophy of buy less but better. The closet became a physical vessel of family memory, where quality, durability and emotional value outweighed novelty.

This sense of continuity was especially poignant at Hermès, marking Véronique Nichanian’s farewell after 37 years as artistic director. Her approach has always been rooted in longevity and cyclical fashion: designing not for seasons, but for lives. In a moment when AI and automation increasingly encroach on creativity, her departure felt like a reminder of the irreplaceable human touch. Hermès once again resisted trends, focusing instead on garments as meaningful, long-term companions.

Auralee distilled this philosophy into desirable simplicity. Ryota Iwai’s “Pure Silhouettes” used colour as the primary storytelling tool. Referencing Bauhaus colour theory, Lego-like modularity and architectural experiments such as the Reversible Destiny Lofts, the collection treated wardrobe-building as intuitive and playful. Primary brights stacked effortlessly, turning dressing into a calm, almost meditative act.


4. DRESSING FOR THE IMMINENT FUTURE - Function, adaptation and emotional resilience

Louis Vuitton / Pronounce - Men Fall/Winter 2026

Designers also addressed the near future, not speculative or distant, but immediate. They considered what consumers will need to endure, adapt and feel supported in challenging times.

At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell explored Timeless Living through the lens of function and human need. The collection reflected on the imminent future and the realities the Louis Vuitton customer may face: uncertainty, acceleration and constant adaptation. Technical innovation was woven directly into garments, with functionality guiding design choices rather than following them. Set within a glass house, the show acknowledged how luxury has expanded to offer solutions for every aspect of modern life, from clothing to environment.

Pronounce offered a quieter, more introspective vision of technicality. The collection encouraged garments to reveal themselves over time, athletic materials were absorbed into tailoring, utilitarian elements softened by proportion and layering. Function existed, but never at the expense of emotion. Movement replaced control, intelligence replaced severity.

Technology in menswear is no longer about performance alone, but about emotional sustainability.

 

The CIC Take

Men’s Fall/Winter 2026 reveals a menswear landscape shaped less by trend cycles than by emotional, cultural and functional recalibration. Designers are no longer choosing between expression and restraint, or innovation and heritage, they are learning how to hold these tensions simultaneously.

The season points towards a future where value is created through meaningful transformation: reworking the familiar, preserving what matters, and designing with real human needs in mind and garments that feel relevant not just to the moment, but to the lives consumers are navigating.

Beauty Innovation at CES 2026

Photos: LG Household & Health Care - L’Oréal - Amorepacific

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, we continuously decode, analyze, and contextualize innovation. The Consumer Electronics Show (CES) 2026 showcased cutting-edge advancements set to redefine the beauty industry. As global leaders in tech and beauty converge, with France and South Korea leading the way, we examine breakthrough technologies that are shaping a new era of skincare - pushing the boundaries of personalization, efficacy, and convenience. From AI-driven skincare solutions to precision-engineered devices, CES 2026 highlights a transformative shift, positioning technology as a core driver of beauty innovation.

As the new year begins, we took a deep dive into CES 2026, a key innovation playground where major beauty groups unveiled how technology is reshaping skincare.

Here are four beauty tech innovations that particularly excited our team - all 2026 CES® Innovation Award honorees:

L’oréal - led face mask

 

L’Oréal - LED Face Mask

 

LED light therapy is gaining momentum, with a +57.3% year-over-year increase in TikTok views of "LED Lights" (Source: Spate Tool, TikTok US*). L’Oréal’s ultra-thin, flexible silicone LED Face Mask, developed with I-Smart Developments, targets fine lines, sagging, and uneven skin tone using red (630 nm) and near-infrared light (830 nm).

The mask offers a non-invasive, 10-minute daily treatment, reflecting the growing trend of personalized, at-home beauty devices that deliver professional-grade results.

Learn more here.

L’oréal - SkinBoosters Jet

 

L’Oréal - SkinBoosters Jet

 

L'Oréal's SkinBoosters Jet is a prime example of needles-free cosmetic delivery - an area poised for disruption in both the beauty and medical aesthetics sectors. This needle-free system uses high-velocity micro-atomization to infuse actives into the stratum corneum, achieving medical-grade results without pain, downtime, or electrical stimulation, redefining the limits of topical skincare.

This technology aligns with the growing consumer demand for non-invasive, high-impact skincare treatments that can be done from the comfort of their homes.

Learn more here.

Amorepacific - Skinsight™

 

Amorepacific - Skinsight™

Amorepacific - Skinsight™

 

Amorepacific’s Skinsight™ platform, developed in collaboration with MIT, uses an “electronic skin” sensor patch to capture real-time aging signals influenced by the exposome, including factors like lifestyle and environmental conditions. By analyzing this data, the platform predicts skin’s aging trajectory and provides personalized skincare recommendations tailored to individual needs.

This innovation highlights the trend toward predictive beauty technologies, where data-driven insights are used to anticipate future skin changes and offer customized, proactive solutions.

Learn more here.


LG Household & health care - hyper rejuvenating eye patch

 

LG Household & Health Care - Hyper Rejuvenating Eye Patch

LG Household & Health Care - Hyper Rejuvenating Eye Patch

 

The Hyper Rejuvenating Eye Patch, awarded a CES 2026 Innovation Award in the BeautyTech category, combines AI skin diagnostics, personalized ingredient formulation, and advanced light therapy. The device uses AI to analyze skin concerns like wrinkles and dark circles, then customizes ingredient delivery through a biomimetic negative-pressure patch. A flexible LED patch adds controlled light energy for enhanced skincare.

This innovation reflects the trend of hyper-targeted beauty devices, providing personalized, hands-free treatments that address specific skin needs using cutting-edge technology.

Learn more here.

The cosmetics ic take

As AI and data-driven personalization continue to evolve, beauty brands must prepare to offer solutions that are not only effective but intuitive. The integration of real-time skin analysis and targeted treatment delivery will be key to maintaining relevance with tech-savvy, wellness-conscious consumers.

Discover more insights in our Beauty Foresight - Skincare & Wellness report, where we analyze how emerging technologies are redefining skincare and wellness, from devices to data-driven personalization.

 

*Source: Spate Tool: Year-over-Year growth rate: views this year vs. views last year source - TikTok US - from Jan 5, 2025 to Jan 4, 2026 vs. Jan 7, 2024 to Jan 5, 2025

How Gen Z & Gen Alpha Are Rewriting the Rules of Fragrance

Credits : Noyz

At this year’s Fragrance Innovation Summit in Paris, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation explored a crucial question: why is fragrance undergoing such a profound transformation, and what does this shift reveal about the future of beauty?

Our talk, How Gen Z & Alpha Redefine Perfume and Its Use unpacked the cultural, emotional, and behavioral shifts that are pushing fragrance far beyond its traditional codes.
Today, only 6% of 18-34 y.o. consumers do not wear perfume, compared to 26% of 55+ y.o. consumers (Circana - Fragrance Innovation Summit 2025). What emerges today is clear: younger generations are not just buying perfume, they are reinventing its meaning, its use, and its value.

Below are the three major transformation engines shaping the next era of fragrance.

1. Personal Layers - Fragrance as a Language of Identity

Rare Beauty - Fragrance Layering Balm

For Gen Z and Gen Alpha, fragrance is no longer a finishing touch. It has become a core tool of self-expression, a modular language through which they articulate their moods, aesthetics, and evolving identities.

This generation has abandoned the traditional “signature scent” in favor of fragrance wardrobes: flexible scent portfolios designed to shift with context, emotion, and persona. On TikTok communities like PerfumeTok or Smellmaxxing, perfume is framed as a daily emotional code: “What scent matches my mood today?”

This drive for personal authorship fuels a new wave of innovation focused on augmentation, modulation, and co-creation:

  • Rare Beauty introduced Fragrance Layering Balms, allowing users to build their own olfactive “score” by adding amber, floral, woody, or fresh layers. As Selena Gomez puts it, “I wanted a perfume that evolves with me.”

  • Glossier continues to push its “skin-scent” ethos with You Fleur, a fragrance designed to adapt differently to every wearer, encouraging layering as a personal signature.

  • New gestural formats are multiplying: gels, body & hair mists, mood mists, enabling users to adjust texture and intensity.

  • In Japan, IPSA’s Skin Fragrance Gels blur the line between scent and skincare for a more intimate, subtle expression.

Across markets, one shift stands out:
Fragrance is becoming a writable space, a canvas for identity, emotion, and self-narration.


2. Wellness Scents - The Rise of Emotional Fragrance

Orebella

As stress and emotional volatility rise, especially among younger consumers, fragrance is increasingly perceived as a tool for emotional regulation, clarity, and reconnection.

What was once a beauty gesture is transforming into a micro-ritual of psychological support. Nearly 80% of UK consumers now believe fragrance can improve mental well-being (Mintel - Make Sense of Scents - July 2025).

This shift fuels an emerging hybrid territory between perfumery, neuroscience, and self-care, illustrated by a new generation of functional, mood-responsive scents:

  • Moods, launched this year, reimagines aromatherapy through clinically validated blends. Its “MoodSwings” duo, a double roller designed for on-the-go regulation, delivers measurable emotional impact, with 76% of users reporting improved mood and harmony.

  • Orebella (by Bella Hadid) brings bi-phased scent rituals combining skincare actives, mushrooms, and aromatherapeutic components, turning fragrance into a meditative, sensorial practice.

  • The Nue Co uses neuroscience and nostalgia with First Milk, formulated to trigger the brain’s comfort response.

  • The multisensory trend expands through edible fragrances such as Amorecco, merging taste, touch, and scent.

  • Everyday beauty also shifts: Being Frenshe transforms lip wellness into a mood-boosting centering ritual through scent science.

What we witness here is a status shift:
Fragrance is evolving from aesthetic pleasure to emotional utility, a new form of self-soothing and regenerative care.

3. Cultural Anchors - Fragrance as a Cultural Dialogue

Documents

For Gen Z, identity is cultural as much as personal. Fragrance, therefore, becomes a medium of heritage, storytelling, and collective meaning.

Brands increasingly lean into culture, art, craft, history, symbolism, to create fragrances that resonate emotionally and intellectually:

  • In China, Documents blends Guochao cultural revival with modern perfumery. Products reinterpret traditional lucky charms, rituals, and olfactive philosophies, turning perfume into a living cultural artefact.

  • Miu Miu Miutine becomes a manifesto of “soft rebellion,” merging literature, youth culture, and feminine narratives into an olfactive attitude.

  • Diptyque curates its experiences like exhibitions, as seen in its Shanghai installation Un Air de Paris in October, an educational and immersive scent journey designed for younger audiences.

  • In Korea, Borntostandout pushes cultural hybridization to the extreme: Onggi clay pot maceration, gallery-like boutiques, and ultra-concentrated juices redefine fragrance as contemporary art.

  • Balenciaga’s revival of Le Dix shows how heritage can be reimagined for a new generation seeking roots, authenticity, and symbolism.

Across these initiatives lies a powerful insight:
Fragrance is becoming a cultural language, a place where identity, memory, aesthetics, and heritage meet.


The CIC Take - What This Transformation Means for the Future of Fragrance

Younger generations are rewriting the expectations of fragrance at every level.
They fluidly navigate between self-expression, emotional functionality, cultural meaning, and expect scent to evolve with them.

We are entering a new paradigm where fragrance becomes care and culture, performance and identity, a sensorial ecosystem rather than a single product.

For brands, the opportunity is bold and clear: Don’t just create new scents. Create new meanings, new rituals, and new ways for consumers to connect to themselves, to others, and to the world.

Check our website for our latest Trend Books, Inspiration Tours or Retail Forecasting Books. Don’t hesitate to contact us for a tailored Fragrance Report.

LIFE RESILIENCE - EXPLORING SKINCARE’S EVOLVING ROLE IN THE WELLNESS ECONOMY

Reframe Beauty

As the Global Wellness Institute reports that the wellness economy has doubled in size since 2013, our latest Beauty Foresight report - The New Unfolding: Skincare & Wellness Inspiration from the US, lifts the veil on how beauty brands can stake a claim in this thriving and evolving industry.

Skincare’s role within this new wellness framework is shifting from reactive care to proactive life design. Read on for a snapshot of one of our core Beauty Foresight trends, Life Resilience, which maps the emerging opportunities for brands able to harness skincare’s functional and regenerative potential.

EMOTIONAL RESILIENCE - Mood as a foundation of skin health. 

Longevity and resilience are no longer abstract ideals – they’re becoming tangible, measurable, trainable, and integrated into daily routines. Aging healthily and holistically is now a key wellness driver, with up to 60% of consumers viewing it as a “top” or “very important” goal (McKinsey, 2025), providing a clear pathway for skincare brands to reframe narratives around resilience and health. 

Within this new space, emotional wellbeing is fast becoming a frontier of modern beauty, as consumers increasingly recognise that their mood, stress levels and internal rhythms directly shape how they look, feel, and age. Emotionally attuned routines that stabilise the nervous system, regulate sleep, and build long-term resilience will find a responsive consumerbase, as 40% of Gen Z say they feel “almost always stressed” (McKinsey, 2025). Emotional equilibrium is no longer a luxury; it is a core health strategy.

Sakara Life - Serene State

Emotional Harmony

The urgency is real; chronic stress can shorten life expectancy by 2.8 years, making emotional harmony an essential pillar of longevity (National Institute for Health and Welfare, 2020). Consumer interest in this space is surging - Instagram posts tagged stress-relieving have risen +261% YoY, while TikTok interest in stress-modulating ingredients enjoys an uptick: adaptogens (+505% YoY), magnesium (+50% YoY), and lavender (+18% YoY) are all trending as consumers grapple for solutions*. 

Beauty and wellness brands are responding with products and programs that merge mood management with biological optimisation. RoC Skincare is funding research into the link between emotional balance and skin function, while Tatcha x Open’s World Mental Health Day (Oct 2025) initiative integrates breathwork into skincare rituals. Functional formats are also accelerating uptake: Sakara Life’s Serene State gummies and Primally Pure’s Serenity Soaks bath pucks (both Sept 2025) anchor nervous system care into daily routines.

Eyeam - Glymphatic Sleepy Butter

Sleep Balancing

Restorative sleep is becoming an equally critical dimension. Quality sleep can add up to five years to lifespan, inspiring innovation around circadian support and neuro-restorative actives. Neurae’s The Sleeping Mask (Aug 2025) leverages Gardenia Jasminoides for melatonin-like signaling, while Eyeam’s Magnesium Glymphatic Sleepy Butter (June 2025) promotes overnight brain detoxification through transdermal magnesium and chlorophyll. Reframe’s Circadian Cream (May 2025) is a melatonin-mimicking, “memory foam” moisturiser designed to lower skin stress and reset nightly repair.

Together, these launches signal a new era of emotionally intelligent beauty, one where calm becomes a catalyst for longevity.

TO EXPLORE MORE

For a deeper exploration of skincare’s expanding role in long-term wellbeing, access our latest Beauty Foresight report.

Spanning 60+ pages of real-time market intelligence, future forecasting, and global product analysis, it’s designed to guide NPD teams and unlock new opportunity spaces.

Contact us to purchase the full report. 

* Spate NYC Tool - YoY from Oct 20, 2024 to Oct 19, 2025 vs. Oct 22, 2023 to Oct 20, 2024

TREND HUNTING AT MADE IN FRANCE EXPO 2025

Photo: Pomponne, Cosmetics IC - Rose Lane, Lucibelle

The 2025 edition of Made in France, a premier showcase of French products, celebrated innovation, craftsmanship, and sustainability across the skincare and makeup landscape. This year’s event unveiled how French Indie brands are redefining beauty through technology, organic formulations, and hybrid products that merge care with color.

Our team explored the show floor to uncover the key movements shaping the next era of French beauty. Here are the standout trends that caught our attention:

#1 – Skincare + Tech: Smart Beauty Meets Personalization

Maison M - Photo: Cosmetics IC

Lucibelle - The Ove Mask - Photo: Cosmetics IC

 

French innovation continues to bridge technology and beauty with intelligent, customizable solutions.

Maison M stood out with its AI-powered lipstick experience, where users upload a selfie on the brand’s website and receive six personalized lipstick shade recommendations. The system considers skin tone, undertones, and preferences, suggesting perfect matches across reds, nudes, and browns. Customers can then create a bespoke 3-in-1 lipstick with refillable shades, combining personalization with sustainability.

Another highlight, Lucibelle, showcased French Beauty Tech at its finest. Its photobiomodulation devices harness red LED light to rejuvenate skin, hair, and body.

#2 – Organic Makeup: The Purity of Simplicity

Comme Avant Serum - Photo: Cosmetics IC

Eugénie de Jaham - Makeup - Photo: Cosmetics IC

 

Organic formulations took center stage as brands like Comme Avant and Eugénie de Jaham championed authenticity and transparency through minimalist ingredient lists.

Comme Avant came with blushes made from only six organic ingredients and no synthetic dyes. The brand also introduced an Eye Contour Serum, made in Marseille and COSMOS-certified, featuring a roll-on applicator and a minimalist formula with caffeine, watercress extract, and spirodela to refresh and decongest the eye area.

Eugénie de Jaham, an organic indie brand from Amboise launched in 2022, presented its line of 100% natural lipsticks, Cosmos certified, crafted without titanium dioxide. These formulas celebrate both safety and sensorial pleasure, aligning with the growing demand for mindful beauty.

#3 – The Rise of French Hybrid Beauty

Rose Lane Paris - Photo: Cosmetics IC

Pomponne - Concealer - Photo: Cosmetics IC

 

At the intersection of care and color, brands like Rose Lane Paris and Pomponne exemplify the new hybrid beauty ethos, where makeup nourishes as it beautifies.

Rose Lane Paris is a French makeup line launched in early 2024, with its laboratory based in Normandy. The brand emphasizes local and small-scale production, with paper cases made in Drôme and mailing boxes from an eco-responsible company in the Vosges. Its formulas use ingredients of natural origin, aiming toward locally sourced French beauty products.

Pomponne is a french natural makeup brand launched in 2020. The brand showed their new BB Moisturizing Cream SPF 20, a titanium dioxide-free formula that hydrates, protects, and is made of 95% naturally derived ingredients. The BB cream scores 93/100 on Yuka, and the brand is set to launch a pH color-changing concealer in the upcoming months.

THE CIC TAKE

The 2025 edition of Made in France Expo showcased how the future of beauty thrives at the crossroads of personalization, naturality, and innovation. From Maison M’s AI-led lipstick creation to Comme Avant’s minimalist purity and Pomponne’s skincare-powered color, the developments are anchored in French values: natural, conscious, and pleasure-driven.

As technology and tradition continue to converge, the next chapter of beauty will be defined by personalization, performance, and purpose, proving that French innovation remains as elegant as it is forward-thinking.

K-Beauty’s Scientific Turn: Insights from Osong Beauty Fair 2025

 

Source: Unsplash - Natalia Blauth

 

At the heart of Korea’s biotech and beauty innovation hub, the Osong Beauty Fair 2025 offered a fascinating glimpse into how K-beauty continues to evolve - fusing science, biotechnology, and emotional care into next-generation formulations.

This year’s fair highlighted a scientific renaissance within Korean beauty. From exosomes and PDRN (now sourced increasingly from plants to meet global clean expectations) to bio-active waters replacing traditional purified bases, the focus was clear: skin performance and biological intelligence are the new frontiers of care.

Brands such as Medical Cosmetic Nine Tails showcased EXO-NANO - a nano-sized cream technology claiming to penetrate up to 2.5 mm beneath the skin - illustrating how deep-tech language and measurable efficacy are becoming integral to storytelling.

Vinci Code No.7 UV Smart Sun Cushion, Myung Sung Corp Capsule Cream, Beauty Preference Test

The fair also revealed a growing experiential and diagnostic dimension in beauty. The “Beauty Preference Test” experience organized by the Expo guided visitors to booths based on their skin profiles - showing how data-led personalization is extending from online platforms to physical spaces.

On the innovation side, Blossom K Beauty Co., Ltd., impressed with its latest project, Da Vinci Code No.7 UV Smart Sun Cushion, integrating a UV camera to visualize sunscreen application - a smart, tangible example of how tech and care are merging into real-time feedback systems. The project will be launched on Wadiz, the funding platform end October 25.

Another innovation was from Myung Sung Corp, a company that developed a patented technology to encapsulate the cream into tiny balls that you break into your hands before applying on the face.

Other innovation deciphered by our specialists was O’Labs, emphasized the use of deep-sea water, rich in electrolytes and over 70 minerals, aligning skincare closer to the body’s natural chemistry, or Pure Lotus, a probiotic skincare brand based on fermented lotus from the Jeju Island.

The CIC Take

Osong Beauty Fair 2025 confirmed that K-beauty’s next wave is biologically intelligent, sensor-driven, and increasingly rooted in scientific transparency.

As we continue to track these evolutions with our partners at Latitude 37, this convergence of biotech, data, and design signals a new era of intuitive science - where formulas think, adapt, and connect more deeply with the skin.

Contact us for any information, Tour in Seoul or to order our latest Trend Book on the next wave of K-Beauty.



NYFW Spring/Summer 2026 Trends

Prabal Gurung Spring/Summer 2026

New York Fashion Week continues to be a mirror of the times - fluid in form, yet bold in vision. For Spring/Summer 2026, designers gravitated toward silhouettes that felt expansive and free, crafting movement into every step and cultivating an atmosphere of festivity and theatrical detail that pushed past the ordinary. Beauty mirrored this mood with experimental twists and flashes of bold creativity, while a quieter narrative unfolded backstage - an emphasis on radiant skin and thoughtful care, grounding the season’s exuberance in a natural, effortless glow.

Here are five key trends we spotted during this season’s Fashion Week presentations.

Puffed-up pants

Michael Kors / Altuzarra / Ashlyn / Adam Lippes - Spring/Summer 2026 - The Impression

Voluminous trousers are making a bold return. Once dismissed as casual weekend wear, the balloon and harem-inspired silhouettes have been redefined on the Spring/Summer 2026 runways, offering a sense of ease without sacrificing elegance. Billowing fabrics, playful cinching at the waist or ankle, and exaggerated proportions transform the pants into a statement piece.

-       Michael Kors elevated the silhouette with fluid draping and sleek monochrome styling, proving the voluminous pant can move seamlessly from laid-back to refined. The look felt modern, elegant, and surprisingly sensual.

-       Brandon Maxwell & Adam Lippes refined the shape by tucking structured tops into the billowing waistline, creating a sculpted, hourglass effect. Their take balanced exaggerated volume with precision tailoring.

-       Ashlyn & Collina Strada pushed the drama further, showcasing bold colors, textures, and playful proportions. Their designs embraced the pant’s theatrical edge, capturing the season’s carefree and celebratory spirit.

-       Altuzarra embraced bold experimentation with color, material, and texture. From burgundy leather to desert taupe balloon trousers, paired with snakeskin accessories, the collection proved that taking sartorial risks can deliver striking, unforgettable results.

 

Joyous celebration

Area / Christian Siriano / Luar - Spring/Summer 2026 - The Impression

The runways shimmered with a carnival spirit, where fashion became a spectacle of color, texture, and movement. Designers embraced excess with unapologetic joy, transforming festive motifs into high-fashion statements that captured the exuberance of summer.

-       Area leaned fully into celebration, sending models down the runway with confetti-like embellishments and iridescent details that shimmered under the lights. Metallic finishes and playful textures gave the collection a sense of motion, echoing the energy of parade and performance.

-       Christian Siriano translated festivity into couture glamour, with neon-bright gowns and sculptural silhouettes that radiated optimism. His palette of hot flashes and glowing tones channeled the spirit of carnival while remaining rooted in red-carpet elegance.

-       Luar brought the carnival directly to the runway, infusing his collection with a theatrical edge. From dazzling textures to dynamic accessories, the pieces embodied community, joy, and spectacle—an ode to fashion as both celebration and cultural commentary.

 

Teal shades

Ashlyn / Laquan Smith / Zankov / Tory Burch - Spring/Summer 2026 - The Impression

A deep, aquatic teal surged across the NYFW runways, emerging as one of the season’s defining colors. Neither subdued nor overpowering, it struck a balance between elegance and vibrancy, offering designers a versatile hue to reinterpret through contrasting textures and moods. Paired with neutrals or presented in head-to-toe statements, teal brought a fresh sophistication to Spring/Summer 2026.

-       Ashlyn showcased teal in fluid, sculptural silhouettes, using the shade to emphasize form and movement. The color amplified the architectural precision of her tailoring, adding a bold yet refined edge.

-       Teal’s sultry edge came through in body-conscious cuts and glossy finishes, transforming the shade into a symbol of confidence and allure. LaQuan Smith positioned the hue as a bold alternative to the season’s neon spectrum, pairing vibrancy with unapologetic sensuality.

-       When paired with earthy browns, teal revealed a more grounded sophistication. At Tory Burch, the contrast elevated American sportswear into something both practical and chic, softening teal’s intensity while highlighting its versatility.

-       A glittering teal dress shimmered under the lights at Zankov, transforming the shade into a statement of vibrancy and joy. The sparkling finish elevated teal beyond daywear, proving its power as both playful and glamorous.

 

Colorful lashes

Ulla Johnson / Collina Strada / Eckhaus Latta - Spring/Summer 2026 - The Impression

This season, lashes became the canvas for experimentation, replacing traditional blacks and browns with flashes of unexpected color. From sky blues to frosted whites, the beauty look was playful yet subversive - equal parts whimsy and rebellion.

-       At Anna Sui, pastel-blue mascara brought a dreamy bohemian spirit to the collection, a softer nod to maximalism that brightened the gaze without overwhelming it.

-       Eckhaus Latta, working with Isamaya Ffrench, turned lashes into something ethereal. Translucent white extensions caught the light like snowfall, leaving behind only a whisper of shimmer and shape, giving models an otherworldly aura.

-       For Collina Strada, color became a clever accent, with feline-inspired eyeshadow paired with vibrant flashes at the outer lashes. The detail was playful yet symbolic, echoing the brand’s themes of sustainability and animal symbolism.

-       Meanwhile, Ulla Johnson, translated the trend with delicacy, incorporating subtle tints of yellow shade that felt modern and wearable, making the runway look accessible beyond high fashion.

 

Care radiance

Ashlyn / Eckhaus Latta / Altuzarra - Spring/Summer 2026 - The Impression

This season, radiance was redefined. Instead of glassy, high-shine skin or layers of contour, the focus shifted to thoughtful preparation - skincare as the ultimate beauty statement. The glow was born backstage, through facials, hydration masks, and partnerships with skincare houses, turning the runway into a quiet celebration of care and authenticity.  

-       At Altuzarra, the look was intimate and fluid -bare skin with the faintest hint of dew, reflecting the collection’s understated elegance. Ashlyn emphasized purity and restraint, sending out models with untouched complexions that softened the sharper edges of her architectural silhouettes.

-       Eckhaus Latta made backstage part of the spectacle itself, collaborating with Dieux to showcase under-eye patches as models walked. It was beauty in progress, an embrace of transparency that reframed skincare prep as performance.

-       At COS, minimalism took form in hair and beauty alike. Loose, barely-there ponytails paired with powdery nude lips projected a quiet nonchalance, the kind of understated chic that feels effortless yet intentional. Calvin Klein, meanwhile, stripped things back to their rawest expression: skin laid bare, matte and unadorned, lips washed in neutral tones. It was minimalism pushed to its extreme, redefining power not through excess but through restraint.

The CIC Take

Spring/Summer 2026 was defined by a spirit of liberation and play, where joy, experimentation, and care intertwined across fashion and beauty. Exaggerated silhouettes, carnival-inspired exuberance, bold splashes of color, and radiant skin all spoke to a season unafraid of contrast, where spectacle met restraint, and creativity found balance in authenticity. In a cultural moment shaped by shifting values and evolving expressions of beauty, designers used the runway not just to dress the body, but to celebrate individuality, ritual, and the sheer pleasure of self-expression.

This is just a snapshot of our analysis from Fashion Week - contact us for our latest in-depth NYFW Spring/Summer 2026 report.

Beauty's charms offensive

818 - Mini bag charms

If 2024 was our Brat summer, 2025 has undoubtedly been the summer of the Labubu. In a flash, the furry, fiendish charm from Chinese toy manufacturer Pop Mart has gone from cult collectible to cultural craze, adorning the bags and TikTok feeds of everyone from Blackpink’s Lisa to Marc Jacobs and Madonna.

However, Labubu’s meteoric rise on the consumer radar is down to more than just celebrity endorsement - it represents the recognition of adult play as a key source of well-being in a high-stress world. In the US, it is adults who are driving growth in the toy category, with sales to this demographic up 18% YoY (Circana, August 2025). 

While we first highlighted the charm trend last year in our What’s Up #21 report, love for accessorizing your accessories with cute collectibles continues to gain momentum as consumers look to inject their daily routines with a shot of personalized playfulness. The desire to decorate, customise and play isn’t just about aesthetics – it’s about identity. Research reveals that 67% of US adults believe self-expression is important (Mintel, 2025), underscoring why customization is proving so powerful. And if recent beauty and lifestyle launches are anything to go by, we’ve still not reached peak charmcore, as brands lean further into the craze. 

Recent launches highlight the expanding scope of this dynamic. 818 Spirits is bringing the charm economy into lifestyle with its Tequila Minis Charms, reframing bottles not as pure function but as collectible accessories, complete with a wink of playful luxury. Beauty too is doubling down: Odele Beauty tapped cult accessories designer Susan Alexandra for a beaded bag charm collab that pairs clean haircare with Y2K-coded whimsy. Hourglass Cosmetics has gone more elevated with its Charms Edition palette, fusing fine jewelry design with customizable makeup, empowering consumers to curate compacts as unique as their signature looks.

Mass brands aren’t missing a beat either. H&M Beauty’s July drop with Chupa Chups fuses foodcore with charmcore in a sweetly irreverent collection, while ColourPop’s PopSockets Grip reinvents multifunctionality with a 3-in-1 lip holder, grip and phone stand.

Retail spaces are amplifying the experience too, responding to consumers' desire for more interactive and playful shopping environments (Westfield Rise, 2024). In August, Space NK joined forces with Jellycat to celebrate the opening of its new Oxford Street flagship with a limited-edition Amuseables bag charm, while Crocs’s new Icon store in Soho, NYC, features a customization playground where shoppers can curate their own Jibbitz™ charm collection, turning each purchase into a self-expression canvas.

 

WHAT’S NEXT?

Charm culture is thriving in a world shaped by stress and frugality; these micro-treats bring instant joy, while allowing consumers to engage in a small act of creative self-expression. However, the next chapter for charms will head beyond cute: expect sustainability and multifunctionality to come to the fore, as brands meet the need for objects that are not only collectible but also purposeful and enduring. 

Read more about the charm trend in our latest Beauty Foresight report, The New Unfolding - Makeup.

Recession Beauty: How economic pressure is redefining beauty culture

 

Deathtostock - Photo by Shauna Summers

 

Economic uncertainty and the ongoing tariff turbulence are reshaping the beauty industry, prompting a shift toward value-driven consumer behavior. The Cosmetics IC team decodes consumers’ responses to the current economic climate and explores how financial pressure is redefining beauty culture.

As consumers watch their spending, holding back becomes more than just a financial statement - it’s an act of empowerment.
— Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, Cosmetics IC. 

The Beauty of Less – Smart Restraint

Gone are the days of overflowing vanities and impulsive beauty splurges; today’s consumers are embracing restraint as a form of empowerment. Movements like Project Pan are leading the charge, encouraging users to use up every last drop of their products before replacing them, turning visible empties into badges of honor for social media (Google searches for these videos have surged by +91% YoY1). The trend has reached haircare too: recession blonde - a low-maintenance, budget-friendly shade - has gained popularity as people cut back on salon visits. It's a clear example of how financial caution is directly shaping beauty aesthetics.

The Value Recalibration - Dupe Economy

As cost-of-living concerns grow, consumers aren’t just spending less, they’re spending smarter. Against this backdrop, the dupe economy continues to thrive. Far from being seen as a compromise, dupes are now symbols of clever consumerism.

With a BoF x McKinsey report finding that 1 in 3 U.S. adults intentionally buy dupes, it is no wonder brands are now centering their entire identity around duping. MCoBeauty is a prime example, with its $14.99 Flawless Glow Luminous Skin Filter being a clear nod to Charlotte Tilbury’s $49 version. And it's a strategy that is paying off - the brand has experienced a +595% YoY increase on U.S. TikTok views.2 As a counterpoint, legacy brands are trying to reassert their value - Charlotte Tilbury’s Legendary. For a Reason. campaign is an open attempt to reinforce edge by emphasising expertise and innovation.

Bargain Culture – The Treasure Hunt Economy

Today’s beauty consumers aren't just looking for lower prices, they’re seeking the thrill of the find. Bargain culture has transformed beauty shopping into a treasure hunt, fueled by social media, peer recommendations, and gamified retail experiences.

TikTok’s #affordablemakeup hashtag saw a +11.4% YoY spike2, while The Ordinary’s Choose a Price campaign, letting shoppers pay what they could, earned respect for its inclusive, community-driven pricing model. In February, L’Oréal Paris sponsored multiple influencers for a campaign that championed the affordability of its products. Creator @bethennyfrankel posted a video praising the Plump Ambition Hyaluron Lip Oil as being better than expensive alternatives, generating an Earned Media Value of $185K.3

On platforms like TikTok Shop, affordability is met with immediacy, as consumers seamlessly switch from livestreams to shopping. During Black Friday 2024, TikTok Shop sales hit $100 million, overtaking platforms like Shein and Temu (Reuters). Brands like BPerfect are excelling in this social commerce space, with a record-setting livestream in March 2025 generating over $325,000 in sales (TikTok).

In today’s value-led beauty landscape, TikTok Shop is proving to be a platform with real clout - driving sales, shaping trends, and turning influencer content into powerful, purchase-ready moments.

THE CIC TAKE

Today’s beauty culture embraces strategic restraint, celebrates smart substitutes, and prizes authenticity over excess. The future of beauty isn’t necessarily less - it’s leaner, smarter, and far more intentional. Value is more than a price tag; it's a new aesthetic ideal.

Find out more about Recession Beauty in our latest What’s Up report. Join Cosmetic IC at MakeUp in New York (September 17- 18, 2025), at the agency’s booth - A48.

Sources:

1. Spate NY Tool – U.S. Google searches - from Apr 2024 to Mar 2025 vs. Apr 2023 to Mar 2024

2. Spate NY Tool – U.S. TikTok views - from Apr 21, 2024 to Apr 20, 2025 vs. Apr 23, 2023 to Apr 21, 2024

3. Tribe Dynamics – EMV (Earn Media Value) in February 2025

Beauty Rewired: Adaptive Beauty Systems

 
 

In our upcoming Beauty Talk for MakeUp in New York (September 17), Beauty Rewired: Adaptive Beauty Systems, our CIO Leila Rochet will unpack how the alliance of technology, science and beauty is reshaping the industry - from sourcing to selling.

In this era of accelerated innovation, beauty becomes a dynamic, future-ready force that combines the microscopic scale of biotechnology innovations with the expansive opportunities of virtual realities.
— Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, Cosmetics IC

NEXT-LEVEL INTERACTIONS

As consumers increasingly embrace AI-driven creativity, with 65% believing it will enhance artistic expression and progress (Vox), beauty brands have a unique opportunity to leverage the current enthusiasm for tech-powered innovation. The consensus amongst consumers seems to be that if AI can simplify their lives, then it is worth embracing - over half of U.S. Gen Zers support brands using generative AI for personalization (Statista).

New product launches demonstrate the potential for technology to transform how consumers engage with and experience beauty, whether it is through embarking on a ChatGPT-authored glow-up, booking in for an Aescape robotic massage, or by leaning into AI-powered diagnostics with SmartSKN’s Muilli AI Dermascope and L’Oréal’s Cell BioPrint. These innovations demonstrate the power of AI to offer incredibly nuanced experiences, hyper-attuned to individual needs, from health diagnostics to skin analysis to empowering bold makeup looks.

Technology is also powering a new wave of co-created products and experiences, acting as a conduit for deepening consumer engagement and collaboration. NFC-enabled beauty brand Kiki World raised $5 million in 2024 to build on its proposition of offering a blockchain platform that allows users to vote on product designs, earn loyalty points, and unlock discounts. NFC-enabled products further enhance the engagement experience, rewarding community interaction beyond purchases.

BIOTECH FUTURES: SUSTAINABILITY MEETS SCIENCE

As beauty brands seek future resilience, biotechnology and AI-driven formulations are emerging as industry game-changers. Lab-grown ingredients and AI-enhanced product development tools, such as Debut’s BeautyORB, which utilizes AI to scan over 50 billion ingredients, are paving the way for sustainable, high-performance beauty solutions.

In this context, AI-controlled farm environments will become a critical asset to brands focused on ring-fencing their sustainability. Odacité’s Derm-Restore Super Serum (May 2024) showcases the power of AI farming, using lab-grown Edelweiss, an otherwise rare and difficult-to-source botanical ingredient. Beauty brand Jillian Dempsey works with the AI-powered platform Provenance to provide detailed information on the sourcing and composition of its products as it makes ingredient transparency a core part of the brand experience.

THE CIC TAKE

The future of beauty lies in adaptive, tech-driven innovations that merge biotechnology, AI, and self-expression. The industry must embrace this transformation to remain relevant in a world where digital and physical beauty seamlessly converge. This means prioritizing investment in AI-controlled environments or lab-grown alternatives to ensure long-term viability and differentiation; harnessing AI as a facilitator of self-expression; and investigating ways to bring hyper-personalization at scale.

To discover the latest trends shaping the future of beauty, meet the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation team at the trends area of MakeUp in New York on September 17-18, booth A48.

Our Beauty Talk, Beauty Rewired: Adaptive Beauty Systems, will be held on September 17, 2025, 1:30 pm - 2:15 pm in The Beauty Agora, where Leila will be joined by Alex Rawitz (Director of Research and Insights of CreatorIQ) and Sarah Jindal ( Mintel). The panel will explore how new technologies, from biotech and skin diagnostics to AI and sensorial interfaces, are converging to transform beauty’s potential, fueling groundbreaking innovation, redefining performance and expectations around efficacy and personalization.

Trend Hunting at MakeUp in PARIS 2025

Photo: Cosmetics IC - Our Booth - Our Conference - Nuon

The 15th anniversary edition of MakeUp in Paris, held at the Carrousel du Louvre, set a new benchmark for inspiration, expertise, and innovation in the global beauty industry. Our team was proud to present our conference, “What’s Up in the U.S.? – The Market Shifts Redefining Global Beauty”, and delighted to connect with many of you at our booth, where we shared our expertise and highlighted our latest initiatives.

This year’s show was a celebration of creativity and collaboration, with over 145 exhibitors from more than 20 countries presenting their flagship launches and breakthrough solutions. Here are the standout innovations that captured our team’s attention on the show floor:

#1 – Nuon Medical – Compact Skin Analyzer

Nuon Medical’s Compact Skin Analyzer brings advanced diagnostic technology directly to the beauty counter, empowering both brands and consumers with real-time, actionable skin data. Equipped with detection sensors, the device provides instant feedback on skin condition (oil and hydration levels), enabling the personalization of skincare routines. It features integrated 630nm red light therapy to stimulate skin renewal and improve texture, while microcurrent technology tones facial muscles and reduces sagging - delivering a holistic approach to skin health in a compact, user-friendly format.

Why is it interesting? These diagnostic tools empower both brands and consumers to make informed decisions, enhancing skincare regimen effectiveness and supporting the trend toward hyper-personalization.

#2 – Jotim – Rose Essence Oil

Jotim’s Rose Essence Oil redefines multi-functional skincare with a formula that addresses hydration, oil balance, soothing, and repair in a single step. Featuring aromatherapy-grade rose essential oil and red myrrh, it creates a sensorial ritual while delivering targeted benefits: soothing redness, regulating sebum, and supporting all skin types - including oily skin. The innovative three-layer moisturizing technology ensures 16 hours of hydration, while a biomimetic barrier supports the skin microbiome and strengthens resilience.

Why is it interesting? This three-layer oil offers a “one bottle for total care” approach, combining sensorial pleasure with clinically relevant benefits for modern, minimalist routines.

#3 – Cosmecca Korea – Banana PDRN Eye Serum

Cosmecca Korea’s Banana PDRN Eye Serum targets dark circles in the delicate “banana zone” under the eyes with a plant-based, silicone-free formula. Leveraging banana-derived PDRN, it brightens and revitalizes tired under-eyes, providing a gentle yet effective solution for puffiness and dullness without the use of silicones.

Why is it interesting? This serum stands out for its plant-based version of the popular ingredient PDRN - offering a compelling vegan-friendly alternative.

THE CIC TAKE

The 2025 edition of MakeUp in Paris demonstrates that the future of beauty lies at the intersection of technology, multifunctionality, and ingredient innovation. From Nuon Medical’s data-driven analyzers to Jotim’s sensorial formulations and Cosmecca’s targeted clean skincare, the industry is moving decisively toward solutions that are both effective and delightful.

As MakeUp in Paris continues to serve as a “think tank” for the industry, it’s clear that the next era of beauty will be defined by personalization, science-backed efficacy, and a commitment to sustainability.

Our latest “What’s Up - U.S. Inspiration” ans “Open Horizons - Skincare & Wellness” trend reports are available now.

Contact us for more details.

3 Days of Design 2025 - Design That Speaks to the Senses

Photo credits: @charlottetaylr - Tekla - Bread and Butter

Copenhagen, June 18–20, 2025 - In just a few years, 3 Days of Design has quietly become one of the world’s most anticipated design events. More intimate than Milan, more fluid than Paris, it has carved out a space for itself with the same effortless elegance as Copenhagen, the city it calls home. This year’s theme, "KEEP IT REAL", is a call for design that is authentic, emotional, and deeply human.

Across historic showrooms, atmospheric installations and temporary creative residencies, a powerful narrative emerged: design is entering a new sensorial age, where material, function and feeling are inextricably linked.

 

Tekla -  The Romance of Comfort

Tekla

At the majestic Charlottenborg Palace, Copenhagen-based textile brand Tekla unveiled its new collection through a dreamlike installation titled Modern Romance. Known for its minimalist homeware, the brand reintroduces broderie anglaise in a contemporary, understated way: refined bed linens made with organic cotton and delicate trims, echoing heirloom quality with a modern twist.

Set among wooden beds in a scenography by architecture studio Mentze Ottenstein, the exhibition created a compelling dialogue between the ornate, historic surroundings and the quiet intimacy of crafted textiles. The collection draws on the rich decorative codes of European bedding traditions, yet distills them into something simple, pure, and emotionally tactile. It’s a sensitive blend of heritage and softness, illustrating our growing desire for rituals, textures, and a gentler rhythm of life.

 

Bread and Butter - Objects in Perfect Harmony

Bread and Butter

At Korean restaurant Ouri, the Bread and Butter exhibition presented a whimsical and thoughtful exploration of complementary objects for the dining table. Curated by Hee Choi and Pyeori Jung, 12 international designers created custom pieces inspired by the warm, comforting palette of bread and butter, from pale cream to rich brown.

A chromatic range that just so happens to echo our Color of the Year “Lime Butter”: soft, sensorial, and full of possibility.

Highlights included: 

  • Mouth-blown carafes with sculptural coasters by Maria Bruun 

  • A resin wine cooler and tray set by Forever Studio

  • An off-kilter ceramic cup and saucer by Hun Lee that balance each other with poetic precision

More than just beautiful objects, these designs expressed a deeper message: that harmony lies in relationships, between forms, functions, and gestures. The idea of the perfect pair becomes a metaphor for a more intentional, interdependent way of living, one rooted in collaboration and care.

 

Home from Home - A Study in Light and Emotion

@charlottetaylr

At Noura Residency, a cinematic apartment-style location, art director and designer Charlotte Taylor presented Home from Home - an evocative exploration of domesticity. In a series of atmospheric rooms featuring emerging and established talents (including chairs by Kasper Kyster and stone glasses by Diego Sanchez Barcelo), Taylor invited visitors to reflect on the emotional choreography of space: where objects settle, how light moves, and how the textures of daily life build meaning over time.

This is not a static home, but a living one, suspended between stillness and transformation. It’s an invitation to consider not only how we live, but what lives with us.

 



The Sound of Material - Tactility at the Core

The Sound of Material

Curated by Natalia Sánchez, The Sound of Material brought together 25 designers and makers working across ceramics, textiles, paper, lighting, glass, and more. Each piece explored the transformative potential of materiality, whether rooted in centuries-old craft or driven by new design technologies.

From hand-shaped surfaces to digitally generated forms, the works invited us to engage physically and emotionally. Sensoriality, through texture, weight, sound, and presence, was the unifying thread. This was design that doesn’t just decorate space but activates the senses, reminding us of the quiet power of the objects we live with every day.

 

The Cosmetics IC Take

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, we see the 2025 edition of 3 Days of Design as a clear signal: design is becoming more sensorial, intentional, and emotionally intelligent. And this evolution holds deep relevance for beauty, wellness, and luxury brands. Here are some of the most strategic insights:

  • Elevated sensoriality: In a visually saturated world, touch, light, scent, and texture offer powerful, differentiated experiences. Brands should think beyond visual aesthetics to create multisensory rituals and emotional anchors.

  • Comfort as modern luxury: Tekla’s blend of minimalist design and romantic detailing taps into a broader yearning: for comfort, nostalgia, and softness. Modern luxury today is less about opulence, more about emotional refuge.

  • Complementary design thinking: The idea of pairs, as explored in Bread and Butter, opens fresh territory. Products that complete each other or interact in intuitive ways (like tool + formula, care + gesture, serum + scent) foster deeper engagement.

  • Designing for everyday rituals: Home from Home reminded us that small, daily interactions matter. Brands have the opportunity to design for how people really live, considering moments of pause, care, and quiet transformation.

INNOVATION AT VIVATECH 2025

Sources: Cosmetics IC / LVMH / Cosmetics IC

Chief Inspiration Officer Leila Rochet reports from the floor of VivaTech 2025 (June 11–14, Paris), where global tech leaders gathered to explore the theme New Frontiers of Innovation.

With AI leading as the most impactful technology for 65% of surveyed business leaders, and 85% planning increased AI investment, the show confirmed how innovation is privileging processes designed to enhance daily life, support long-term wellbeing, and drive smarter, more sustainable success across industries. 

Over the course of four days, the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles transformed into a dynamic showcase of innovation. Discover the visionary brands and breakthrough conversations set to redefine the future of health and beauty:

L’Oréal -  New Frontiers of Longevity

L’Oréal unveiled a cutting-edge portfolio of tech-enhanced innovations, spotlighting the transformative role of AI in the future of beauty. Centering longevity as its primary focus, L’Oréal blends biology, technology, and personalized insights to empower consumers to take proactive control of their skin’s future through several key innovations:

  • Longevity Integrative Science is L’Oréal’s pioneering approach to redefining beauty through the lens of health and prevention. By combining advanced tech with skin biology, it targets the root causes of aging to extend cellular healthspan. Using its Longevity AI Cloud and Wheel of Longevity, L’Oréal enables personalized, proactive journeys toward lifelong skin vitality.

  • The Cell BioPrint is a lab-on-a-chip device that delivers a personalized skin health assessment in just five minutes. Using Longevity Science, powered by NanoEnTek, it calculates biological skin age, predicts future concerns, and guides proactive care, shifting skincare from reactive to preventative, for longer-lasting cellular youth (launching March 2026).

  • The Rénergie Nano-Resurfacer 400 Booster is a next-generation at-home skincare device inspired by professional micro-needling techniques. Featuring 484 ultra-fine nano-tips, it enhances serum absorption and gently resurfaces skin. Designed to amplify Rénergie H.C.F. Triple Serum, it delivers clinical-grade results on wrinkles, dark spots, and texture, without pain, downtime, or compromising sensitive skin.

LVMH - Optimized Luxury

Far from shying away from showcasing technology’s role in crafting luxury products, LVMH shared stories of how technology is being used to enhance the savoir-faire of its iconic Maisons. Through 15 novel innovations, the presentation demonstrated how the presence of science and AI does not have to be at the sacrifice of soul or artistry. Standout activations from the LVMH Dreamscape also revealed compelling applications for the beauty industry:

  • Merging signature elegance with traceable, tech-powered personalization, Bulgari showcased connected jewelry, produced in collaboration with Dev4Side. A micro-engraved serial number, scanned via an app, unlocks a digital passport detailing each stone’s origin, rarity, and craftsmanship.

  • Moët & Chandon highlighted its use of Hiphen technology to analyze 16,000 grape batches in under three weeks. This tech-guided approach ensures only the finest grapes are used in each vintage - true luxury, rooted in data. 

  • Guerlain unveiled a multisensory experience to celebrate its Shalimar fragrance, utilizing technology from startups Olfy and IRCAM Amplify to translate the scent’s six core ingredients - jasmine, bergamot, rose, vanilla, tonka bean, and iris - into sound and visuals. The immersive installation showed how retail and marketing experiences can be elevated into artistic, emotion-driven journeys.

Retro Bioscience - Reverse Aging

Retro Bioscience presented a bold vision: extending human lifespan by 10 years through the use of advanced cellular therapeutics. The company’s CEO, Joe Betts-LaCroix, shared that 80% of our suffering in old age is linked to age-related diseases, and the solution is not to combat diseases one by one, but to take a holistic, scaled approach. To achieve this, the Sam Altman-backed startup is pioneering two key strategies: replacing aged cells and rejuvenating existing ones. 

With automation and AI-driven gene analysis, Retro is developing affordable therapies that target the root causes of age-related diseases. Their work on blood stem cell replacement and custom protein design highlights a shift from treating symptoms to modifying cellular predispositions. Phase 1 clinical trials are scheduled to commence this year, with the first therapies anticipated by the end of the decade.

Oura - The Quantified Self

Holly Shelton, Oura’s Chief Product Officer, explored the concept of The Quantified Self - a better, biometrically optimized version of ourselves, aided by a constant stream of health data (50+ daily markers) fed to us via the Oura ring. The brand’s “health sensing” technology - a gentle explanation for the ring’s intricate AI feedback system - enables the wearer to make minor adjustments to improve their day in the moment, as well as for the long term. Shelton emphasized the ring’s ability to restore balance to wearers’ lives—a constant quest for today’s over-stretched, overstimulated consumers. 

Oura’s next phase will involve a shift towards active care: expanding from personal wellness into connected healthcare. Upcoming features include blood sugar insights, meal tracking, and enhanced women’s health tools - from cycle tracking to pregnancy support. Crucially, users will soon be able to export health reports, enabling data-driven clinical conversations and empowering earlier, more informed healthcare decisions. 

The CIC Take

New technologies are accelerating the shift from correction to prevention, reframing aging as a solvable biological challenge rather than an inevitable decline. This year’s innovations signal beauty’s evolution into a field driven by deep science, where scalable biohacking and cellular age-reversal technologies hold visionary potential to transform both personal care and public health.

VivaTech 2025’s call to explore New Frontiers of Innovation echoes the theme of our latest U.S. Trend Books, Open Horizons, where we urge brands to embrace the future of beauty with an open mind and bold outlook. Contact us for more information.

TIKTOK TREND INSPIRATION: S1 2025

Sources: @mvrychen / @melisekrem / @kayli.boyle

Every month, the Cosmetics IC social media team scours TikTok and Instagram to spotlight the latest beauty trends, viral techniques, and must-have products. So far this year, the beauty community has embraced minimalism, playful color correcting experimentation, and a renewed focus on hair. Here are the top three TikTok trends shaping the conversation at the start of the year:

 

1/ No Mascara Makeup

The #FullFaceNoMascara trend is making waves across TikTok and Instagram, as beauty lovers embrace makeup looks that skip mascara entirely. This minimalist approach shifts the focus to radiant skin, sculpted brows, and statement lips, moving away from the traditional emphasis on dramatic lashes. Instead of volumizing mascaras, creators are enhancing their lash lines with tightlining, subtle false lashes, or simply brushing clear brow gel through their natural lashes for lift and separation.

This trend reflects a broader shift toward pared-back, “undone” aesthetics, where healthy, glowing skin takes center stage. For a feminine and youthful vibe, many pair bare lashes with vibrant lips and cheeks - with sheer berry stains and diffused blush for a modern, effortless finish. A bold red lip worn with bare lashes also features prominently in videos, offering a fresh and edgy twist.

Key Products:

- Maybelline Great Lash Clear Mascara 

- SEPHORA COLLECTION Eyelash Curler

- Glossier Boy Brow (transparent)

Influencers: @kensnation, @avashaw.ty, @oliviadaytonn

Hashtags: #nomascara – 74.1M views, #nomascaramakeup – 24.5M views

 
 

2/ Pink vs Peach Concealer

A new wave of color-correcting content is taking over TikTok, with creators splitting their faces in half to compare the effects of pink versus peach concealers. This trend is also meant to be helping viewers choose the right corrector for their unique complexion.

Pink correctors are recommended for those with fair skin, brightening under-eyes and neutralizing green and blue undertones for a fresh, illuminated look. On the other side, peach and orange correctors are often used for medium to deep skin tones, counteracting bluish hues and camouflaging dark circles or spots. Peach shades are also seen working well for fair to medium skin, while deeper oranges suit richer skin tones.

In their TikTok videos, creators apply a small amount of the corrector to dark circles or spots, blend gently, and layer with their usual concealer.

Key Products:

- Huda Beauty #FAUXFILTER Under Eye Color Corrector

- Kosas Revealer Extra Bright Serum-Powered Color Corrector 

- Maybelline Instant Age Rewind Eraser

Influencers: @selcanguerel, @velabeauty, @christxiee

Hashtags: #peachcolorcorrector – 6.5M, #orangecolorcorrector – 8.6M, #pinkconcealer – 76.6M

 
 

3/ Victoria’s Secret Blowout

The iconic “Victoria’s Secret Blowout” is back this year, with TikTokers recreating the bouncy, voluminous hair made famous by 90s and early 2000s supermodels. Whether using hot tools like the Dyson Airwrap or Shark FlexStyle, or opting for heatless methods with overnight rollers or even socks, creators are looking to achieve that signature bombshell bounce.

TikTok creators often follow a specific set of steps to achieve this popular blowout look. They begin by applying a heat protectant to damp hair to shield it from damage, then rough dry the hair until it is about 70% dry. Next, they use a round brush to blow out one-inch sections of hair. After blow-drying, each section is secured in velcro rollers to maximize volume, and the rollers are left in place for at least 20 minutes to set the style. To finish, a volumizing spray or styling cream is applied to lock in body and shine.

 

Key Products:

- Moroccanoil Perfect Defense Heat Protectant 

- Living Proof Perfect Hair Day 5-in-1 Styling Treatment

- Olaplex Bonding Oil No. 7

 

Influencers: @carogracesmith, @angelsign_, @sophiebarkleyy

Hashtags: #victoriasecrethair – 20.3M, #blowout – 5.3B, #overnightblowout – 500.5M 

 
 

The CIC Take

Our social media team brings you an indispensable guide to all things viral, listening in to the trending beauty conversations on TikTok and Instagram. A monthly edit filled with data from our social media data partners, Spate and Tribe Dynamics.

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

 

Sources: Cosmetics IC - S1 2025 (January to May 2025)

Spate NYC - TikTok US until Week of May 25, 2025

 

The New Well 2025: Where Innovation Meets Beauty

From May 16 to 18, 2025, the Carreau du Temple in Paris hosted the third edition of The New Well, a festival dedicated to the future of beauty and well-being. Our team attended the three-day event to explore emerging trends and innovations firsthand. Gathering over 100 pioneering brands and industry leaders, the experience offered masterclasses, product demos, and networking across beauty, wellness, nutrition, and lifestyle.

The New Well Festival - Photo By Cosmetics IC

The Next Step in Asian Beauty: A Tech-Driven Revolution

Bijo: The Essence of Japanese Beauty Tools

Founded by beauty expert Keiko Suyama, Bijo is Paris’s premier destination for cutting-edge Japanese beauty technology. The boutique features advanced tools such as the YA-MAN MediLift EMS Lifting Mask, which uses electrical muscle stimulation to tone and sculpt the lower face, specifically targeting the Masseter and Zygomaticus muscles.

Another highlight is the CoreFit Face-Pointer II, a precision device for targeted lymphatic drainage and muscle relaxation. It includes two attachments: a Single Rod for focused pressure and a Triple Rod for gentle, distributed stimulation across broader areas like the cheeks and forehead. These professional-grade tools allow users to achieve salon-quality results at home, improving skin texture, firmness, and radiance with regular use.

Bijo - Photo By Cosmetics IC

Maison Kōsane - Photo By Cosmetics IC

Maison Kōzane: The Parisian Home of High-Tech K-Beauty

While much of the K-Beauty wave centers on affordable, youth-focused products, Maison Kōzane curates high-end, niche brands and advanced tools that replicate professional facial treatments at home.

Among the innovations showcased was the Korean Air Brush Lift using Ruby-Cell technology, a patented device that blends airbrush application with lifting massage techniques for facial contouring and enhanced glow. Another standout was La Nouvelle Peau The Lift Pro, which uses near-infrared light to reduce inflammation, tighten pores, and enhance skin texture, offering an alternative to traditional clinical treatments.

 

 

Science Meets Skincare: The Rise of Medical-Grade Beauty

Skin Diligent: Epigenetic Skincare for Cellular Longevity

Skin Diligent stands at the forefront of a new wave in skincare, leveraging the science of epigenetics to influence skin health at the cellular level. Their products are powered by epigenetic ingredients, antioxidants, and microbiome-friendly actives, targeting the eight hallmarks of cellular skin health, from telomere protection and melanin regulation to regenerative capacity and hydration. The brand's technology is designed to optimize the skin's ability to repair and renew itself.

Among their product range, the Vitamin C Serum-in-Oil stands out. Unlike traditional water-soluble Ascorbic Acid, this serum uses a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C that penetrates deeply without causing irritation or oxidation, delivering potent antioxidant protection directly at the cellular level.

Skin Diligent - Photo By Cosmetics IC

Credits - Clarté Laboratoire

Clarté Laboratoire: Ophthalmology-Inspired Precision for Skin Longevity

Clarté Laboratoire, born from over 20 years of expertise at Horus Pharma in preservative-free ophthalmic care, brings a unique medical perspective to skincare. The brand's mission is to optimize cellular resilience and prolong skin longevity by applying the strictest medical standards to every product.

Clarté's formulas are sterilized using UHT technology, preservative and fragrance-free, and contain a maximum of 15 rigorously selected ingredients to minimize the risk of irritation and maximize efficacy. The innovation extends to packaging, with airless, patented glass bottles that protect formulas from oxidation and contamination, ensuring the integrity of each active ingredient over time.

 

Breaking the Mold: Disruptive Formats & Unconventional Innovations

Lyfta: Facial Kinesiotape - A New Era of Non-Invasive Skin Lifting

Lyfta introduces pre-cut kinesiotape patches, specifically engineered for the delicate skin of the face. Inspired by medical kinesiology, these patches are designed to increase blood circulation, stimulate lymphatic drainage, and support facial muscles, without releasing any active ingredients. These patches facilitate oxygen and nutrient delivery, support collagen and elastin production, and promote skin lifting and toning.

The Cheek and Mouth Kit features two shaped tapes, each tailored to target areas like marionette lines, nasolabial folds, cheekbones, and mouth corners.

Lyfta - Photo By Cosmetics IC

Ozza - Photo By Cosmetics IC

Ozza: Fresh Skincare Powered by High Pressure Processing (HPP)

Ozza uses High Pressure Processing (HPP), a technique from the nutrition world, now applied to cosmetics. Unlike conventional methods that rely on heat or preservatives (which can degrade active ingredients), HPP preserves nutrients in their purest, most bioactive form. Through this process, the formulas maintain their potency and absorption properties, supporting the skin's natural functions. All products in this line come in single-use sachets to guarantee freshness.

Maison Kosé: Japanese Heritage Meets Scientific Precision

Maison Kosé brings Japanese beauty expertise to France through its Decorté and Sekkisei Blue product lines. Sekkisei Blue applies the Kampo philosophy's three fundamental elements to skincare: Ki (vital energy), Ketsu (blood circulation), and Sui (water balance). The brand's diagnostic approach determines a personalized serum-oil formulation based on these elements.

Each component serves a specific function: Ki supports vital processes, Ketsu ensures nutrient transport and skin radiance, while Sui maintains hydration levels. Through this system, Sekkisei Blue aims to restore balance among these elements for optimal skin health.

Maison Kosé - Photo By Cosmetics IC

The CIC Take

The New Well 2025 demonstrated the convergence of scientific innovation, sustainability, and experiential beauty. Drawing from Asian beauty traditions, medical advances, and emerging brand innovations, the skincare industry is evolving. This transformation points to a future where skincare solutions become increasingly personalized, technologically advanced, and adaptable to individual needs.

Our team of experts is available to work on your latest innovations or tailor an inspiration report specific to your need.  

Contact the team for more details.

NYCxDESIGN 2025 Guide: Emerging Design Codes

@audocph - @kikigoti - Les Collection by @lisaluvsit

From May 15 to 21, New York City will once again become the stage for NYCxDESIGN, the city’s annual festival of design innovation. Stretching across all five boroughs, from Manhattan’s galleries to Brooklyn’s studios and Ridgewood’s creative hubs, the event celebrates a pluralistic vision of design rooted in identity, independence, and social engagement.

This year’s edition reveals a distinct shift in tone. Unlike the theatrical opulence seen in Milan, NYCxDESIGN 2025 centers emerging voices and independent studios, foregrounding design as both a functional discipline and a cultural message.


Shelter - Vol.1: Mart Nouveau

Les Collection - @lisaluvsit

@audocph

@atelier_ollin

A debut fair curated by Afternoon Light, Shelter gathers over 100 brands and studios. From names like Les Collection or Audo Copenhagen to Atelier Ollin, it creates a hybrid landscape where collectibility, market-readiness, and storytelling converge. A democratic showcase for design in the post-retail age.


Biome by Lichen Studio

@vyvoistudio

@weskn0ll for @malcolmransome

@yuxuan_huang__

In Ridgewood, design shop and studio Lichen curates a show shaped by ecological thinking. Biome explores the relationship between physical environment and creative identity, featuring work by artists such as Yuxuan Huang, Vy Voi, Malcom Ransome and Reginald Sylvester II. It’s a meditation on material memory and the porous boundary between past and present.


Outside/In - Lyle Gallery

@pauljmillerphoto for Monica Curiel

@kawabi

@soft.geometry

At Lyle Gallery on the Lower East Side, Outside/In draws inspiration from the Outsider Art movement. This multidisciplinary exhibition, led by queer and women founders Lin and Magdalena Tyrpien, amplifies experimental, self-determined voices such as Soft Geometry, Kawabi and Monica Curiel. The result is a community-rooted exploration of design as resistance and personal mythology.

Forced Perspective

@sahrajajarmikhayat - Ellen Pong

@kikigoti

@sahrajajarmikhayat - Office of Tangible Space

A timely, two-day exhibition, Forced Perspective examines how design responds to misinformation and fragmented narratives. Curated by NJ Roseti, Kiki Goti, Caleb Ferris, and The House Special Studio, the show presents collectible works by 15 New York-based talents, including Office of Tangible Space and Heechan Kim. Furniture and objects become vessels for political critique and collective memory.

ICFF x WANTED – Designing in Harmony

Daniel Gruetter

@ryin - Ah Um Design Studio

@juniperdesigngroup

At the Javits Center, the International Contemporary Furniture Fair returns with a renewed focus: sustainability, inclusivity, and emotional connectivity. Under the theme Designing in Harmony, the fair spotlights emerging voices through the WANTED platform, such as Ah Um Design Studio and Daniel Gruetter, while installations by Grohe and Juniper point toward a softer, sensory future of space-making.

THE CIC TAKE

NYCxDESIGN 2025 highlights a clear shift: design is becoming more intentional, contextual, and community-driven. For brands, this means moving beyond aesthetics to engage with creators who embody cultural relevance and ethical resonance. This design week offers not only a glimpse into tomorrow’s aesthetics, but into the ethics, values, and systems that will define the next decade of design.

For more cultural decoding and insights, check our other articles.