TREND INSPIRATION: 5 FALL/WINTER 2025 FASHION WEEK TRENDS

Khaite Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

Fashion Week is in flux - both structurally, as calendars shift, and culturally, amid a rapidly changing political landscape. This season, designers embraced this feeling of bold contrasts: reference-heavy maximalism clashed with sharp ’90s minimalism, while fashion became a tool for resistance, with brands using the runway to make powerful political and social statements.

Here are highlighted five key trends we spotted during this season’s Fashion weeks.

Corpcore: Back in the boardroom

Calvin Klein Fall/Winter 2025 / Stella McCartney Fall/Winter 2025 / Jane Wade Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

Corporate dressing is making a comeback. Sharp tailoring, crisp collars, mannish overcoats and perfectly fitted trousers offer a palette cleanser to the years of work-from-home sweats. This new iteration is not just a Gen Z interpretation of corporate culture, served up in the stylised aesthetic of Severance, but a real status-defining look. In this new vision, even the humble lanyard is a coveted accessory.

• Calvin Klein (NYFW) defined the "corporate chic" look in the ’90s, and now Veronica Leoni reinvents it for a new generation, blending sharp silhouettes with a modern, understated sensuality.

• Gliding through the sleek corridors of "Stella Corp", models embody a modern working wardrobe that effortlessly shifts from day to night. Stella McCartney (PFW) reinvents power dressing with confidence, blending masculine precision with feminine allure.

• At Jane Wade (NYFW), officewear is reimagined through the lens of employer-employee surveillance culture. Work badges, phones and folders become statement accessories, blurring the line between function and fashion.

Fur: Commanding style

Khaite Fall/Winter 2025 / Prada Fall/Winter 2025 / Gucci Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

In the spirit of excess, fur returned as a grand symbol of power and unapologetic luxury. Faux and vintage styles also made an appearance, as designers embraced the texture to craft looks that exude drama and confidence. 

• Featuring 90s-style waterfall overcoats and cropped trenches, Khaite’s (NYFW) tonal, tactile collection is inspired by the aesthetic of David Lynch and the streets of New York.

• Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons (MFW) continue their bold experimentation with fur, extending themes from the menswear collection. Oversized faux fur collars envelop structured overcoats worn as dresses, while blazers are reimagined with striking patchwork fur details across the body and lapels, blurring the line between classic tailoring and avant-garde texture play.

• Gucci (MFW) revisits its heritage, drawing inspiration from the brand’s early ready-to-wear era with a distinctly vintage aesthetic. Paying tribute to founder Guccio Gucci, the collection embraces nostalgia through opulent, chunky faux furs, blending past elegance with a modern, theatrical edge.

Poppy Red: Look-at-me colour

Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2025 / Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2025 / Tory Burch Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

This season, Poppy Red dominated the runways as a bold and electrifying statement colour. Designers embraced its intensity through monochromatic, head-to-toe looks, reinforcing red’s undeniable presence as both powerful and provocative. Whether in sleek tailoring, fluid gowns or avant-garde outerwear, the striking hue radiated energy and defiance. 

• Issey Miyake (PFW) reimagines fluidity with a red-on-red knitwear set, expertly cut and knotted to shift and transform with each wear, creating an ever-evolving silhouette. An asymmetrical sculptural dress further explores movement, wrapping the body in dynamic folds.

• Inspired by choreographer Pina Bausch, Ferragamo (MFW) designer Maximilian Davis explores the tension between romance and movement. Red takes center stage, symbolising passion, connection and the push-and-pull of relationships. Flowing silhouettes and structured tailoring mirror Bausch’s expressive choreography, blurring the lines between restraint and release, emotion and precision.

• Tory Burch (NYFW) reinvents American sportswear with a functional yet elevated approach, punctuated with shocks of poppy red. A matching jacket and bag, accented with multi-pocket utility, embrace practicality, while a bold red hue injects energy and sophistication. 

Precious Stones: Heavy metal revival

Givenchy Fall/Winter 2025 / Maison Sara Chraibi Fall/Winter 2025 / Alice+Olivia Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

From gem-encrusted tops to rhinestone-studded faces and gem-topped nails, the season embraced opulence and craftsmanship, with designers incorporating precious elements into both clothing and beauty, making bold, baroque statements.

• Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy (PFW) was defined by a kind of discipline, a discipline where her artistry still shone through. A gem-encrusted top was reminiscent of a cascading necklace, showcasing her meticulous eye for craftsmanship.

• Maison Sara Chraibi (LFW) adorned models’ faces with crystals and rhinestones, placing them under the eyes, along the cheekbones, and on the body, matching lavishly embellished hairpieces.

• For Alice + Olivia (NYFW), nail artist Miss Pop elevated chrome Salon Perfect press-on nails by adorning them with sparkling gemstones and pearls, adding more than a touch of decadent glamour.

Bedhead: Untamed beauty

Prada Fall/Winter 2025 / Gucci Fall/Winter 2025 / Vettese Fall/Winter 2025 - The Impression

Loose, tousled waves and natural textures projected a relaxed and refined look - as if models had just stepped out of bed. The look exudes freedom, celebrating a relaxed, untamed aesthetic that's polished enough for the runway but effortlessly chic.

• Prada's collection challenges traditional notions of beauty, exploring femininity in new ways, questioning gender, appearance and mannerisms. The show, freed from the male gaze, redefines beauty with intentionally frizzy hair, blending both polished and undone looks to reflect a more liberated and fluid interpretation of femininity.

• Loose, disheveled and artfully unkempt, Gucci models sported hairstyles with frizzy textures, embracing an effortlessly undone, carefree aesthetic that contrasted with traditional polished looks.

• Inspired by her Romanesque culture, designer Kari Vettese (NYFW) created a sensual aesthetic that was topped off by morning-after, slept-in hairstyles.

The CIC Take

Maturity and maximalism permeated Fall/Winter 25 collections, as designers embraced the reemergence of corporate culture and “boom boom” dressing – with out-there opulence challenging the recent dominance of Quiet Luxury. In this new era, a shifting political landscape is visibly influencing consumer behavior, fueling a resurgence of extravagant, bold looks reminiscent of the '80s and '90s.

This is just a snapshot of our analysis from Fashion Week - contact us for our latest in-depth NYFW Fall/Winter 2025/2026 report.

TIKTOK TREND INSPIRATION: MARCH 2025

Sources: @iamdoechii_ / @janelthebear / @mimiermakeup

Every month the Cosmetics IC social media team takes the pulse of TikTok to unearth the biggest beauty trends, viral hacks and buzzing products. In February, The Grammys red carpet encouraged fans to experiment with a bold new look, while others were inspired by the classic allure of feline energy. Discover the top three trends from March 2025:

1/ Proud Face Tape

Facelift tapes are having a moment and are turning from hidden accessories to proud ornaments. At The Grammys, rapper Doechii wore her signature face tape above her hairline, turning the face-lifting tool into a statement accessory. Rhinestones were also added to further draw attention to the tapes. We also saw apparent face tapes at Valentino Fall/Winter 2025 during Paris Fashion Week, elevating this TikTok trend as a luxury statement. With cosmetic procedures losing their taboo amongst Gen Z beauty fans, the choice to expose face tapes takes transparency one step further, with the embellishments adding an extra editorial spin.

Influencers: @charlottelooks, @natashajanewood, @pinknews, @itsurgrlaisha, @itsurgrlaisha 

Hashtags: #facetape - 186.2M views

2/ Pink Undereye

Aiming for a bright and flawless look, TikTokkers are blending pink products (blush or lip oils) with their regular concealer, or directly appplying pink-toned concealers to the undereye. Instead of simply covering dark circles, the pink hue has an illuminating effect, delivering a subtle glow and natural flush. Key products include Maybelline’s Instant Age Rewind Eraser in pink, the Kosas Revealer Extra Bright Serum-Powered Color Corrector in pink and the NYX Pro Fix Stick Corecting Concealer.

Influencers: @beautyybylucyy, @huda_gash, @mimiermakeup, @lizziebowker

Hashtags: #pinkundereye - 74.3M views, #pinkundereyetrend - 86.2M views, #pinkblush - 401.1M views, #kosasconcealer - 151M views

3/ Black Cat Energy

This sub trend of the #DarkFeminine aesthetic embodies the independent, detached and self-assured nature of black cats. Inspired by the personification of dark feline energy represented in characters like Morticia Adams or Cat Woman, beauty fans are creating bold and enigmatic looks that focus on the eyes with tight, elongated wings lined in black, with a soft and smokey lid.

Influencers: @janelthebear, @sarahnewsfx, @s.ophiegracee

Hashtags: #blackcatenergy - 220.4M views, #darkfemininemakeup - 58.3M views

The CIC Take

Our social media team brings you an indispensable guide to all things viral, listening in to the trending beauty conversations on TikTok and Instagram. A monthly edit filled with data from our social media data partners, Spate and Tribe Dynamics. 

Includes: Monthly Top 10 brands in EMV, Top 10 brands by followers, the latest trending looks and viral products on TikTok. Also available as a monthly service.

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

Sources: Cosmetics IC – March 2025 

Spate NYC - TikTok US until Week of March 2, 2025

Trend Hunting at MakeUp in Los Angeles 2025

Photo: Cosmetics IC - Innovation Awards - Venice Beach - Capsum

MakeUp in Los Angeles X LUXE Pack 2025: A Standout Year for Beauty Innovation

The Feb 2025 edition of MakeUp in Los Angeles X LUXE Pack marked a stellar year for the West Coast’s premier beauty event, drawing over 4,928 visitors and an impressive lineup of exhibitors unveiling their latest innovations.

From cutting-edge formulations to breakthrough packaging solutions, here are our “coup de cœur” innovations that caught our eye:

#1 – Formula - Over the Rainbow Lip&Cheek - ARTCOSMETICS

Over the Rainbow Lip&Cheek - ARTCOSMETICS

A breakthrough in hybrid beauty, that integrates three distinct textures—creamy blush, glossy balm, and radiant highlighter—into a single, travel-friendly tool. Engineered with advanced molding technology, it preserves the integrity of each formula, ensuring seamless application and optimal performance. Its ergonomic triangular design enhances precision, catering to the demand for intuitive, multi-functional beauty solutions. Compliant with Sephora and Ulta Beauty CLEAN standards, this innovation reflects the market shift toward high-performance, responsibly formulated products.

By combining sensorial richness with cutting-edge technology, ARTCOSMETICS delivers a versatile, on-the-go essential for modern beauty routines.

Why is it interesting?: We love the clean, visually attractive, 3-in-one formula – glossy, jelly, and creamy in a drop-shaped stick.

#2 – Formula - Moisture-Boost Splash Cream - JO COSMETICS, INC.

Moisture-Boost Splash Cream - JO Cosmetics, INC.

The Moisture-Boost Splash Cream merges Japanese skincare artistry with innovative Splash technology. This gel-cream features a unique two-layer structure, with 80% serum encapsulating potent beauty ingredients. Upon application, it bursts into a refreshing fluid, deeply hydrating while addressing dryness, dullness, acne, wrinkles, pores, and irritation. Its completely transparent formula showcases advanced fermentation science, delivering a transformative skincare experience in every jar.

Why is it interesting?: This formula embodies the Japanese art of formulation, featuring a completely transparent gel-cream made with 80% serum.

#3 – Packaging - Paperfoam Twist Up Stick - TOLY GROUP

Toly’s PaperFoam Twist Up Stick

Toly’s PaperFoam Twist Up Stick pioneers a fully paper-based retractable mechanism, a feature previously only achievable with plastic. Unlike existing options that blend paper and plastic, this innovation delivers a high-performance, user-friendly alternative without compromising functionality. By solving a key challenge in paper packaging, it offers a truly sustainable solution for eco-conscious consumers.

Why is it interesting?: A groundbreaking plastic-free design with a fully functional paper-based mechanism.

#4 – Accessory - The Dream Ring - IMEI DIVISION

The Dream Ring - IMEI DIVISION

The Dream Ring is a jewel-like facial massager designed for on-the-go use. This elegant ring effortlessly targets hard-to-reach areas, combining beauty and functionality in a compact accessory. Its sleek, ergonomic design allows for a soothing facial massage anytime, enhancing circulation and relaxation with a touch of style.

Why is it interesting?: Embodying our Key Prediction for 2025, The Culture of Delight, The Dream Ring combines a joyful beauty ritual with a comforting self-care moment, encapsulated in a cute wearable. 

#5 - Packaging -  Nuon – Technology-infused skincare cap 

Nuon – Technology-infused skincare cap 

Nuon Medical Technologies integrates clinically proven light therapy directly into skincare packaging, turning the cap itself into an active treatment tool. This smart packaging utilizes blue light to eliminate acne-causing bacteria and red light to stimulate collagen production, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Designed for targeted treatment, it enhances absorption and accelerates visible results, with studies showing up to 75% acne reduction and 30% more collagen production.

Why is it interesting? This is a game-changing fusion of skincare and clinically-proven light therapy delivered in a super-convenient format.

THE CIC TAKE

The standout innovations from MakeUp in Los Angeles 2025 highlight how beauty is embracing technology, sustainability, and multifunctionality to enhance both performance and user experience. As predicted in our 2025 Key Predictions white book, The Age of Resonance, beauty is evolving with tech-infused skincare, eco-conscious packaging, and ergonomic design that simplifies routines while delivering efficacy and delight. These innovations perfectly align with the industry's shift towards practical, sensorial, and science-backed solutions.

The Age of Resonance is available now. Contact us for more details.

BEAUTY TALK: ADAPTIVE FUTURES - THE VISIONARY ALIGNMENT OF TECHNOLOGY AND BEAUTY

Photo by Makeup in Los Angeles 2025 - Alex Rawitz (Creator IQ), Leila Rochet (Cosmetics IC), Valérie Grandury (Odacité), Jana Bobosikova (KikiWorld)

At MakeUp in Los  Angeles, key thought leaders, Alex Rawitz from CreatorIQ,  founder of Odacite, Valérie Grandury, and co-founder of Kiki World, Jana Bobosikova, joined Leila Rochet in a Beauty Talk to discuss one of the agency’s Key Predictions for the years ahead - Adaptive Futures. The panel explored how consumers are leaning deeper into technical narratives and scientific storytelling as a culture of bold innovation sweeps through the industry. 

“Beauty will become a dynamic, future-ready force that combines the microscopic scale of biotechnology innovations with the expansive opportunities of virtual realities.”

— Leila Rochet, Cosmetics IC

A New Reality

In this evolving territory, hyper-personalized products and experiences are made possible by the embrace of new technologies, while the ingredient space is transformed by novel AI processes and lab-grown innovations.  As consumers increasingly embrace AI-driven creativity, with 65% believing it will enhance artistic expression and progress (Vox), beauty brands have a unique opportunity to leverage the current enthusiasm for tech-powered innovation. The consensus amongst consumers seems to be that if AI can simplify their lives then it is worth embracing - over half of U.S. Gen Zers support brands using generative AI for personalization (Statista).

“We are seeing that advanced technologies and devices are really influencing the beauty industry, alongside lab-grown ingredients. These facets are transforming how consumers experience beauty, creating a very dynamic market,” explained Leila. 

New product launches demonstrate the potential for technology to further transform how consumers engage with, and experience beauty, whether it is through embarking on a  ChatGPT-authored glow-up, booking in for an Aescape robotic massage, or leaning into AI-powered diagnostics with SmartSKN’s Muilli AI Dermascope and L’Oréal’s Cell BioPrint. These innovations demonstrate the power of AI to offer incredibly nuanced experiences, hyper-attuned to individual needs, from health diagnostics to skin analysis to empowering bold makeup looks. 

Science-backed Beauty is Winning

What is clear, is that brands that are embracing consumers’ prioritization of scientific narratives are reaping the rewards. In his presentation, Alex Rawitz highlighted The Ordinary’s ongoing surge (a +59% uptick in EMV,  and +36% growth in Community YoY), propelled by a number of viral product launches, including the Squalene + Amino Acids Lip Balm (June 2024). Likewise, healthy-aging brand One Skin has seen an incredible +450% increase in Engagement thanks to a narrative of biohacked skincare. 

“In 2024 many of the top performers and many of the outlier performers when it comes to growth, were relatively new brands founded in the last five or ten years, which are taking a vegan and cruelty-free ethos to their product lines while also foregrounding science in their brand story” suggested Alex. 

CreatorIQ data analysis also confirms the growing consumer appetite for the convergence of cosmetics and skincare, with Alex highlighting the increasingly central role science and scientists are playing in the makeup space. “There’s unquestionably dramatic momentum” behind this trend, according to Alex, as skincare-first brands invest in expanding their ranges to include cosmetics. Odacite is a good example of this evolution, with the French skincare brand, which is grounded in biotechnology and skin science, introducing tinted SPFs to its range.

AI-Enhanced Efficacy

As beauty brands seek future resilience, biotechnology, and AI-driven formulations are emerging as industry game-changers. Lab-grown ingredients and AI-enhanced product development tools, such as Debut’s BeautyORB, which utilizes AI to scan over 50 billion ingredients, are paving the way for sustainable, high-performance beauty solutions.

In this context, AI-controlled farms will become a critical asset to brands focused on ring-fencing their sustainability. Odacite’s combination of “natural luxury and clinical science” was inspired by founder Valérie Grandury’s personal health struggles, as she recovered from cancer treatment. Valérie discovered that “by choosing the best of science, which is Western medicine, with the therapeutic benefits of botanicals, you can actually have amazing results.” 

This realization inspired Odacite’s approach to formulation, which is centered around biotechnology and AI-controlled farms to ensure the sustainable development of their key ingredient, Edelweiss. The brand utilizes an AI-controlled environment to grow the hardy botanical to the most potent outcomes. “There’s no element that we don’t control,” explained Grandury. A central computer regulates optimum growth conditions, providing a constant feed of data, which is then analyzed to improve the next growth cycle. “The beauty is that we can  harvest every three months, we have no seasonality.”

Transforming Experience through Tech

Technology is also powering a new wave of co-created products and experiences, acting as a conduit for deepening consumer engagement and collaboration. NFC-enabled beauty brand Kiki World raised $5 million in 2024 to build on its proposition of offering a blockchain platform that allows users to vote on product designs, earn loyalty points, and unlock discounts. NFC-enabled products further enhance the engagement experience, rewarding community interaction beyond purchases.

Co-founder Jana Bobosikova explained the process behind the concept is, primarily, to foster loyalty in beauty fans by engaging them in the creation process but also the company is committed to being active participants in the future of the industry by investing in next-gen technologies. The aim is to create a commerce community of emotionally-invested stakeholders, connected by new technologies. “We’re not really a beauty company. We’re a technology company” stated Bobosikova.

THE CIC TAKE 

In the future, advanced devices, lab-grown ingredients, and digital extensions will seamlessly blend to deliver new, boundary-pushing experiences. Here’s how brands can prepare for Adaptive Futures:

• Invest in AI-controlled environments or lab-grown alternatives to ensure long-term viability and differentiation.

• Use AI as a facilitator of self-expression. Blockchain-enabled co-creation platforms can foster deeper consumer loyalty and engagement.

• Introduce hyper-personalization at scale. AI-driven diagnostics will dominate beauty consultations, empowering consumers with precision recommendations tailored to lifestyle and life-stage needs.

Our 2025 Key Predictions white book, The Age of Resonance, is out now. Contact the team today for more information.

The Age of Resonance: 5 Key Trends for 2025 and Beyond

Credits: Nick Fancher via Deathtostock

The Age of Resonance marks a new phase for the beauty industry - one defined by curiosity, creativity, and conviction. In this emerging landscape, beauty evolves beyond aesthetics to become an immersive and emotionally charged experience, where well-being, inclusivity, and self-expression converge.

In our 2025 White Book, the Cosmetics IC team decodes the societal shifts and breakthrough beauty innovations that will transform the shape of the industry for the years ahead.

"In an era of transformation and growing societal consciousness, consumers are seeking more than just efficacy - they crave meaning, emotional engagement, and experiences that align with their evolving lifestyles. Beauty is becoming a space where science meets sensoriality, where ancestral knowledge informs innovation, and where self-expression transcends norms." Leïla Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Discover 5 inspiration territories to fuel your future innovation:

1 - ADAPTIVE FUTURES: The Visionary Alignment of Technology and Beauty

Technology and biotechnology will seamlessly merge to create hyper-personalized, intelligent solutions. AI-driven tools and scientific advancements will redefine performance, pushing beauty toward a new era of adaptability and precision.

Technology is ushering in a new era of co-created products, enhancing consumer engagement through Web3, blockchain, and AI. In 2024, NFC-enabled beauty brand Kiki World raised $5 million to create a platform where users vote on designs, earn loyalty points, and unlock discounts, with NFC products driving community interaction beyond purchases.

AI is also unlocking new creative dimensions. Beauty brands are experimenting with generative AI and wearable tech to enable deeper self-expression. Studio Halia’s Alter Collection integrates NFC chips into sculptural jewelry, unlocking augmented reality beauty experiences.

In beauty, biotech advancements are transforming formulation processes. AI-powered ingredient platforms, like Debut’s BeautyORB, analyze billions of ingredient combinations to optimize both efficacy and sustainability. Lab-grown actives, such as Odacité’s AI-cultivated Edelweiss, are setting new standards for precision skincare.

In the future, beauty will evolve beyond aesthetics, meeting the needs of a dynamic, performance-driven consumer who seeks intelligent, responsive solutions.

2 - DEEP RECONNECTION: Honoring Nature, Culture, and Ancestral Roots to Redefine Sustainability

In an era of rapid change, consumers are seeking grounding experiences and ethical beauty solutions that enhance their connection to nature, heritage, and cultural traditions. Sustainability is evolving beyond environmental responsibility to incorporate ancestral wisdom and elemental purity, creating a more meaningful and holistic vision of beauty.

As awareness of climate change and biodiversity loss intensifies, brands are responding with emotionally resonant narratives. Issey Miyake’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection paid tribute to traditional papermaking, using delicate Japanese washi to reflect nature’s fragility. Meanwhile, Pavels Hedström’s Gaia Communication System translates plant signals into tactile sensations, deepening our emotional bond with the natural world.

Beauty is also turning to ancestral practices and indigenous ingredients to create authentic, culturally rich formulations. HYEJA’s Clarifying Lotus Hydrator combines Korean traditions with modern science, while Nordic and Japanese bathing rituals are inspiring self-care experiences that reconnect consumers with water’s elemental power.

Brands will also rethink materials and packaging, such as Attitude’s Oceanly Eyeshadow which introduced plastic-free, biodegradable packaging, while packaging for Credo’s new skincare line incorporates recycled ocean plastics, reinforcing the shift toward circular beauty.

In the future, beauty will not only honor nature and tradition but also inspire a deeper, more poetic connection with the world around us.

3 - LIFE IN MOVEMENT: Redefining Beauty Through Motion, Adaptability, and Strength

In a world that never stops moving, beauty is shifting to emphasize fluidity, adaptability, and strength, celebrating bodies in motion rather than static perfection. Athleticism and power become the new aesthetic ideal, redefining confidence through physical expression.

As the boundaries between fashion, sports, and beauty blur, brands are responding with designs that enhance both performance and aesthetics. Balenciaga’s collaboration with Under Armour fuses high fashion with functionality, while Loewe’s CloudTilt 2.0 sneaker merges sleek design with movement-enhancing technology. In beauty, innovation follows suit - Respire’s Solid Cleanser and NuFace’s FIX MicroWand are designed for efficiency and portability, catering to active lifestyles.

Strength and resilience will take center stage, with athletes and performers leading the way, like Ilona Maher, rugby Olympian who recently became Paula’s Choice’s first Skincare Coach. Products like Lemme Tone Gummies and Josie Maran’s Pro-Retinol Body Butter are emerging, celebrating the sculpted, powerful body.

Future beauty will be functional, empowering, and protective, designed to support movement, endurance, and self-expression in an ever-evolving world.

4 - THE CULTURE OF DELIGHT: Joyful Escapes and Sensory Delights as Anchors in a Chaotic World

In a world of constant chaos, beauty is evolving beyond appearance to become a tool for emotional well-being and joy. Delightful, sensory experiences provide a much-needed break from daily pressures. Beauty and luxury become vehicles for pleasure, engagement, and self-reconnection, turning mundane routines into moments of happiness.

Nostalgia plays a significant role in this shift, with iconic childhood figures making a comeback to evoke a sense of comfort and cultural connection. At Paris Fashion Week SS25, Coperni collaborated with Disney, creating whimsical designs that celebrate childhood magic. In beauty, collaborations like Dearcloud x Miffy reimagine beloved characters, linking nostalgia with modern self-care.

Brands will also increasingly embrace playfulness in packaging and experiences. The rise of collectible, toy-inspired products, such as Creer Beaute’s Tamagotchi Balms and Fwee's Pudding Pots, offer consumers a playful way to interact with beauty. In the realm of hedonism, consumers seek small, joyful experiences, reflected in pop-up environments like Louis Vuitton’s Murakami Wonderland, which redefines retail as a space for joyful, imaginative escape.

Beauty is now an opportunity for sensory pleasure. With an increasing demand for tactile products, brands like Pleasing and Fwee are creating beauty rituals that engage the sense of touch, turning skincare into an indulgent, playful experience.

In the future, beauty will continue to offer consumers joyful escapes, transforming everyday rituals into multisensory experiences that combine delight with connection.

5- AGELESS HORIZONS: Redefining Beauty Through Inclusivity and Longevity

Our perception of aging is transforming from a limitation to an ongoing narrative of self-expression and empowerment. The growing demand for personalized solutions, inclusive representation, and longevity-focused innovations reflects a broader, more nuanced understanding of beauty that embraces every stage of life. This trend is helping to redefine the narrative around age, celebrating wisdom, experience, and inclusivity across all generations.

In skincare and wellness, a unified language is emerging, with younger consumers adopting preventative routines and older generations focusing on well-aging. Brands are creating products and rituals that cater to diverse needs, responding to this demand for intergenerational dialogue. 

At the same time, age representation is gaining traction in fashion and media, with mature models being celebrated for their experience and confidence. Campaigns from brands like Caudalie and beauty influencers such as Grece Ghanem and Fred Mécène show that ageless beauty is no longer a distant ideal but an attainable and empowering reality.

In the future, beauty will continue to innovate, prioritizing longevity and inclusivity, with advanced skincare technologies and doctor-led brands leading the way, merging beauty and wellness into a seamless, ageless experience.

The CIC Take

For an up-close look at our 5 Key Trends for 2025 and Beyond visit our booth (K49) at the upcoming MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 12 & 13) where our CIO Leila Rochet will personally talk you through a selection of international products at our Inspiration Bar, curated to illustrate many of the themes above.

The full version of our 2025 White Book: The Age of Resonance is available now, contact us for more information.

INNOVATION AT CES 2025

This year’s CES 2025 showcased a captivating blend of innovation, emotion, and practicality, highlighting how technology continues to blur the line between functional utility and emotional connection. From robotics to personalized skincare, here are some standout innovations that inspired us and offer intriguing implications for the beauty and wellness industries.

Credits: Mirumi by Yukai Engineering

Mirumi: A Futuristic Take on the Charm Trend

Charm trends are evolving in extraordinary ways, and Mirumi, the robotic companion, is a prime example. This clip-on creature is designed to evoke deep emotional connections by mimicking the behaviors of a shy baby. Responding to touch and sound, Mirumi redefines our interactions with technology by encouraging moments of bonding. It’s a fascinating exploration of how future-forward designs can tap into human emotions to create meaningful connections, even with machines.

Credits : Yukai Engineering - Dezeen

Nékojita FuFu: The Minimalist COOLING Robot

Nékojita FuFu by Yukai Engineering brings simplicity and whimsy to the forefront of innovation. This tiny, cat-shaped robot blows air to cool down hot food or drinks using a randomized “Fu-ing” algorithm that mimics human behavior. At a hyper-competitive tech fair filled with groundbreaking advancements, this minimalist device stood out as a comforting reminder of how emotional connections, even with seemingly frivolous products, can resonate deeply in an increasingly complex world.

Credits: Therabody

Therabody Coach: Personalized Wellness Through AI

Therabody, known for its popular massage guns, unveiled Coach, an AI-powered digital recovery platform that sets a new standard in wellness technology. Integrated into Therabody’s app, Coach analyzes user data and feedback to provide personalized recovery routines and wellness recommendations. For example, if you’ve just completed a 5K run, Coach will suggest recovery techniques tailored to your activity to reduce soreness and enhance performance. This innovation emphasizes how data-driven personalization can make wellness more accessible and impactful, offering exciting possibilities for beauty and self-care technologies.

Credits: L’Oréal Groupe ©

L’Oréal Cell BioPrint: A Revolution in Skin Intelligence

One of the most groundbreaking unveilings was L’Oréal Cell BioPrint, a tabletop device rooted in longevity science and advanced proteomics. In just five minutes, this portable lab-on-a-chip analyzes the protein composition of a user’s skin to reveal its aging trajectory and provide personalized skincare insights. This innovation marks a significant leap forward in consumer skin intelligence, empowering users to make more informed choices about their skincare routines. It’s a clear indication of how the beauty industry is leveraging science and technology to push the boundaries of personalization.

THE CIC TAKE

CES 2025 reminded us that innovation isn’t just about advancing performance or features. The most impactful developments are those that combine cutting-edge technology with emotional resonance, simplicity, and a focus on human connection. Whether it’s bonding with a robotic charm, finding comfort in whimsical devices, or unlocking the secrets of personalized wellness and skincare, the future of innovation is as emotionally compelling as it is functional.

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, we’re always on the lookout for transformative trends and innovations that shape the future of beauty and wellness. Visit our website to explore our latest reports on skincare, makeup, and emerging technologies that are set to redefine the industry.

LONDON INSPIRATION TOUR

The team recently went to London, seeking inspiration in the most innovative retail spaces and product innovations. Along the way, we discovered captivating concepts that merge creativity and commerce, from immersive pop-ups to thoughtfully designed flagship stores.

Discover four of our favorite finds from London:

Beauty Pie London - Photo Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Beauty Pie

Pop up in Mayfair (November 22 to December 1, 2024)

With its Mayfair’s pop up, Beauty Pies introduced a tactile way to explore its online offerings. Situated at 35 Brook Street, the space featured the brand’s 2024 gifting collection and hero products across skincare, makeup, fragrance, and body care.

Visitors could test products, attend workshops with industry experts, and place online orders with complimentary express shipping. A dedicated photo booth added an interactive touch, encouraging social media engagement and amplifying the brand’s festive presence.

Benefit - The Benemart

Carnaby Street (since November 13, 2024)

Benefit has opened a fourth Benemart pop-up installation, reimagining its Carnaby Street boutique with a playful grocery store-inspired theme. Visitors can grab a shopping cart and wander through aisles where iconic products like the POREfessional Primer and Precisely, My Brow Pencil are reimagined in nostalgic packaging, including "Peas, Love & Pores" cans and "Whole Latte Lashes" coffee cups. This playful design adds a storytelling element to the shopping experience.

In November, Benefit expanded the concept with its first virtual 3D shopping experience, offering an immersive online shopping experience.

The Benemart by Benefit - Photo by Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

IKEA’s Hus of FRAKTA - Photo by Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Ikea - Hus of Frakta

Pop up on Oxford Street (November 28, 2024 to March 2025)

IKEA’s Hus of FRAKTA reimagines its iconic blue bag as the centerpiece of a conceptual pop-up on Oxford Street. The space features a gallery-style display celebrating the FRAKTA bag’s cultural significance and a curated collection of products inspired by its signature blue. Visitors can personalize their FRAKTA bags with bespoke lettering at the in-store atelier or immerse themselves in an experience that evokes stepping inside the bag, complete with ASMR soundscapes, mirrored walls, and 3D lighting. The visit concludes with a playful “press for candyfloss” wall offering blue candy floss.

Located next to the upcoming IKEA Oxford Street store, the pop-up highlights democratic design while elevating an everyday essential to a design icon.

Pureseoul

Westfield, London

As K-Beauty continues to influence the global beauty market, PureSeoul offers a curated experience celebrating over 60 Korean brands, including viral favorites like Medicube and Aprilskin.

Opened in December 2023, the Westfield store features highlights such as a dedicated sheet mask wall and TikTok sensations like Laka’s Soul Vegan Lip Balm. Positioned as a hub for K-beauty enthusiasts, PureSeoul’s strategic partnerships with leading brands enrich London’s dynamic beauty scene, bringing the best of Korean innovation to a wider audience.

PureSeoul at Westfield - Photo by Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

INSPIRATION TOURS

Our Inspiration Tours are individually tailored guides to the world’s best beauty cities. From the K-beauty capital of Seoul to the laid-back cool of Los Angeles - we know where to shop and what to see to inspire your next innovation.

Contact the team today for more information.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds)

SOCIAL MEDIA SNAPSHOT: THE SLEEPMAXXING MOMENT

In the past few months, trends like #MorningShed and #SleepyGirlMocktail have blown up online. With the rise of the "Sleep Economy," sleep has become a focal point for both beauty and wellness, prompting brands to develop innovative products aimed at enhancing sleep quality. This movement goes beyond a fleeting trend—it's evolving into a lifestyle, as new narratives and rituals surrounding sleep gain momentum.

Sources : @maytemyers / @misspeytonsmith / @joatgains

The Sleep Surge

In this new phase, sleep optimization is about a lot more than clocking eight hours. It is about improving sleep hygiene, sleep quality, and the entire sleep experience. Brands are tapping into this by developing products designed to optimize bedtime routines, leading to huge growth in sleep-related searches across social media. 

• ‘Sleep’-related searches grew +124% (YoY - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29)

• Searches for ‘sleep hygiene’ skyrocketed by +222% (YoY - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29) 

The Daily Shed

#TheDailyShed is a relatively recent trend that emerged in early summer. It involves revealing one’s wake-up beauty routine, focusing on the removal of nighttime products. Common elements include skincare treatments, like overnight peeling masks, anti-wrinkle patches, and undereye masks. It also extends to haircare, like silk bonnets or heatless curlers to maintain hairstyle and reduce frizz. Beauty enthusiasts also showcase the removal of mouth tapes, chin straps, and nasal dilators, used to regulate breathing. 

• ‘Daily Shed’ searches grew +253.5% (quarter-over-quarter - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29)

The Sleepy Girl Mocktail

The #SleepyGirlMocktail is a beverage that gained popularity on TikTok in 2023 and has continued to trend into 2024. It's touted as a natural sleep aid, typically made with tart cherry juice, magnesium powder (+95.3% YoY TikTok views - Oct 29), and a splash of seltzer or lemon-lime soda. Proponents claim that the melatonin in tart cherry juice and the calming effects of magnesium can promote better sleep.

Brands like Moon Juice (+41.2% YoY TikTok views - Oct 29) have taken the opportunity to surf on the TikTok trend and deliver "Sleepy Girl™ Mocktail" supplements and recipes. Moon Juice’s signature sleep supplement is Magnesi-Om®, which contains three bioavailable forms of Magnesium and L-Theanine to enhance calmness. In October 2024, it also released the Cherry Sleepy Magnesi-Om, which more closely reflects the taste of the original Sleepy Girl Mocktail recipe, popularized by @gracie_norton.  The brand even boldly claims to be the  “Home of the Sleepy Girl Mocktail 🍒💤”.

• ‘Sleepy Girl Mocktail’ has over 118.6M views on U.S. TikTok ( +711.7% YoY U.S. TikTok views - Oct 29)

Credit: Moon Juice

Nasal Dilators & Mouth Tapes

The most viral sleepmaxxing items on TikTok are mouth tapes and nasal dilators, which are often used in tandem to encourage breathing through the nose. Users claim they improve sleep quality, resulting in better overall health. Intake Breathing is one of the most popular nose strip brands on TikTok, however, some are taking a DIY approach, making their own breath-enhancing devices: @raizashow’s tutorial involving using two magnets and a strip of tape has garnered more than 28M views in less than 2 months. 

With the increasing popularity of nasal dilators and mouth tapes, experts are raising safety concerns and skepticism over the lack of scientific evidence to support their beneficial claims. Instead, sleep experts recommend focusing on basic sleep hygiene practices like maintaining a constant sleep schedule and creating a comfortable sleep environment, as well as limiting screen time before bed. James Wilson, known as The Sleep Geek, says consumers need to exercise caution when it comes to the whole sleepmaxxing movement. He believes that overemphasizing sleep optimization can lead to ‘orthosomnia’: the unhealthy obsession with achieving perfect sleep, which ultimately increases stress and anxiety and thus worsens sleep quality.

THE CIC TAKE

The sleep economy is expanding, as consumers demand products that are increasingly personalized, high-performing, and nuanced - 37% of U.S. consumers are looking for enhanced sleep products that also address cognitive functioning, stress, and anxiety management. This is a dynamic and thriving market, where engaged consumers are open to experimenting with new tools, treatments, and rituals. Our latest Inspiration Report, Higher Perspectives - The Future of Skincare and Wellness,  explores the emerging opportunities arising in sleep performance as consumers align their beauty and health goals. Contact us for more information.

“Moving beyond sleeping better, new products are focusing on helping consumers maximize every moment,
including their downtime. The Nighttime Performer is prominent amongst the one-third of Americans who are interested in sleep monitoring devices and sleep-optimizing products and will invest in high-performance nighttime treatments and services. For them, sleep is intrinsic to wellness, and they will invest in rest to unlock peak daytime performance. With almost 9-in-10 Americans recognizing that quality of sleep matters more than quantity, there remains a huge opportunity for recovery-focused products.”

— The Nighttime Performer, Higher Perspectives - The Future of Skincare & Wellness, Cosmetics IC

(U.S. TikTok data source: Spate)

COSMETIC360 - Strategic Innovations Shaping the Future of Cosmetics

Death to Stock - Daniel Faro

At Cosmetic360 on October 16-17, 2024 in Paris, the Cosmetics IC team explored key innovations redefining the future of beauty, from eco-conscious alternatives to bio-inspired actives, advanced UV defenses, and transformative textures. These discoveries reflect the industry’s strategic response to rising demands for sustainability, biomimetic technology, and long-lasting efficacy. Here, we highlight the standout technologies that promise to shape the next generation of cosmetics, addressing critical market needs with groundbreaking solutions.

1. Eco-Conscious Innovations: The Rise of Microplastic Alternatives in Cosmetics

As consumers increasingly seek sustainable cosmetic solutions, interest in microplastic alternatives has surged (U.S. Google searches for microplastics are up +73.7% YoY - Spate (from Oct 2023 to Sep 2024 vs. Oct 2022 to Sep 2023)). This demand has fueled innovations in microplastic-free ingredients designed to offer functional and environmentally friendly replacements.

• Codif - Sensory Apple Pomace

Derived from upcycled Brittany apples, this micronized apple powder provides an alternative to PMMA, a microplastic soon to be banned in Europe. Sensory Apple Pomace delivers a matte, blurring effect on redness and imperfections, while tribology tests demonstrate its enhanced softness, reducing friction sound on the skin for a smoother sensory experience.

• Dionymer - Biowaste-Derived Polyester

A fully biodegradable alternative to petroleum-based polymers, Dionymer’s PHBV is made through fermentation and is 100% biobased. This microplastic-free solution replicates the functionality of PP, PE, and PLA without the environmental impact, supporting cleaner, sustainable formulations.

2. Nature’s Defense Mechanisms: Biomimetic Skincare Innovations 

As bio-inspired ingredients gain popularity in skincare (global TikTok views for biomimetic have risen +21.3% YoY - Spate - (from Oct 29, 2023 to Oct 27, 2024 vs. Oct 30, 2022 to Oct 29, 2023)), novel active ingredients are emerging, rooted in nature’s adaptive mechanisms and refined through advanced biotechnology.

• Solabia - Serenibiome 

After eight years of research, Solabia developed Serenibiome, a bio-inspired ingredient derived from the epiphytic fungus Pseudozyma flocculosa, which naturally protects plants by producing lipids that guard against environmental stressors. This glycolipid-based active, stabilized through a biomimetic fermentation process, is designed for sensitive and atopic skin. Serenibiome selectively targets Staphylococcus aureus, a bacterium commonly linked to skin inflammation, helping to rebalance the microbiome, reduce neurogenic inflammation, and repair the skin barrier. Clinically tested, Serenibiome reduces redness, itching, and dryness, while increasing hydration and supporting the skin's overall resilience.

• Provital - Shiloxome

Shiloxome is an innovative anti-aging ingredient designed specifically for mature skin, particularly those affected by menopause or post-menopausal changes. Using the pioneering Triplobiome™ Technology, Shiloxome draws from endophytic organisms naturally present in cork oak. This yeast-derived active mimics the cork’s defense mechanisms, which protect it from environmental damage. Shiloxome offers strong anti-pollution and antioxidant benefits and promotes relipidation by boosting ceramide NS synthesis, helping to restore the skin’s protective barrier and resilience against urban stressors.

3. Advanced UV Defense: Long-Lasting Protection and SPF Boosting

With growing interest in long-lasting UV protection (global Google searches for Long Lasting + Sunscreen are up +77.2% YoY - Spate (from Oct 2023 to Sep 2024 vs. Oct 2022 to Sep 2023)), new innovations are enhancing sunscreen efficacy and durability.

• Seprify – SkyWhite

Awarded the COSMETIC360 Raw Materials Award, SkyWhite offers a multifunctional cellulose-based alternative to titanium dioxide. Its 3D structure reflects UV rays, boosting SPF without TiO2. SkyWhite also emulsifies formulas and adapts color intensity: added in water, it produces a whiter effect, while in oils, it amplifies color depth.

• Skinosive - Bioadhesion Technology​

Skinosive’s Bioadhesive Technology secures active ingredients on the skin’s surface, demonstrated in tests on chemical UV filters. It enhances protection by adhering sunscreen to the stratum corneum, preventing deeper penetration and offering up to 8 hours of proven UV defense, even under external stress.

4. Revolutionary Textures: Helical Emulsion in Cosmetics and 3D Printing

In the realm of innovative formulations, two cutting-edge technologies are reshaping cosmetic textures, merging precision and advanced design for a superior sensorial experience.

• Experis - Helical Emulsion Technology

Experis introduces a new philosophy in natural formulation with its Helical Emulsion Technology, a sensory-driven, multifunctional approach (99% natural origin). Unlike traditional emulsions, where oil droplets remain separate and release rapidly, Helical Emulsion Technology distributes oil along this helical matrix, achieving a continuous, controlled release. This structure provides a gradual, immersive sensory experience, optimizing skin affinity, enhancing penetration, and creating a seamless fusion with the skin.

• ABC Texture - 3D-Printed Cosmetics

This patented 3D printing technology creates futuristic, airy textures in solid cosmetics. By incorporating up to 99% air in a controlled three-dimensional matrix, these cosmetics offer a lightweight application, reducing the greasy or sticky feel of traditional balms and sunscreens. The unique 3D structure also improves foaming in rinse-off products by increasing air and water interfaces, while the design minimizes oil content, enhancing texture and sensory appeal.

The Cosmetics IC Take

The innovations showcased at Cosmetic360 illustrate a robust evolution toward products that blend functionality with sustainability, bio-adaptive properties, and sensory appeal. These advances affirm the cosmetics industry’s commitment to both environmental responsibility and scientific innovation, positioning it to meet growing consumer expectations with high-performance, eco-responsible solutions.

Our team of experts is available to work on your latest innovations or tailor an inspiration report specific to your need.   

Contact the team for more details.

TREND INSPIRATION: SS25 beauty Snapshot

Palomo Spain NYFW SS25 - Lexie Moreland WWD

Following a packed SS25 fashion week schedule, the Cosmetics IC team highlights the most inspirational beauty looks from Paris, Milan, London, and New York.

Loewe PFW SS25

Simone Rocha LFW SS25

Loewe (PFW) went futuristic with oversized, silver cat eyes, giving the models an otherworldly and avant-garde appeal. There was a dramatic touch of nature at Simone Rocha (LFW), where floral masks made of carnation petals mirrored the collection for a breathtaking runway look.

Area NYFW Fall 2024

Chopova Lowena LFW SS25 - @laurenfreynolds

Area (NYFW) marked its 10th anniversary with a striking, all-over beauty statement. Tattoo-like stencils across models’ faces and bodies echoed the fingerprint-like patterns on the garments. Colourful clusters of gems framed the eyes in a sharp, wing-like design at Chopova Lowena (LFW), adding charm and sparkle to a standout beauty look.

Marni MFW SS25

Palomo Spain NYFW SS25

Marni (MFW) made waves with ultra-arched, pencil-thin eyebrows, blending old-school glamour with avant-garde beauty. Palomo Spain (NYFW) stunned with slicked-back hair and bleached brows, paired with bold orange accents for an avant-garde finish.

Diesel MFW SS25

Mugler PFW SS25

Diesel’s models (MFW) stunned with colored contact lenses, pushing fashion into sci-fi territory with a look straight out of Dune. Known for their bold designs, Mugler (PFW) pushed boundaries with sharp, V-cut bangs that covered the models’ faces, adding an ultra-edgy vibe.

The CIC Take

This is just a snapshot of our analysis from Fashion Week - contact us for our latest in-depth report.

Credits:
@theimpression_
Loewe
Simone Rocha
Area
@laurenfreynolds
Marni
Palomo Spain
Diesel
Mugler

PARIS INSPIRATION TOUR: Must-see stores in Le Marais

Continuing our Inspiration Tour of Paris, the team highlights its most inspiring new spots in Le Marais, a neighbourhood known for its mix of independent boutiques and innovative concept stores.

Discover some of our must-sees in Le Marais:

Korres - Photo Cosmetics IC

Korres

76 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003

The Korres boutique in Paris's 3rd arrondissement symbolizes the Greek brand's commitment to natural beauty and botanical science. The store seamlessly blends apothecary tradition with scientific innovation, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere reminiscent of an old pharmacy. The boutique’s material palette of stone, wood, and glass fosters an organic ambience that reflects the ingredients' purity.

Products are displayed by range and organized by skincare category or ingredient. Posters on the walls highlight the benefits of key ingredients such as honey and Greek yoghurt.

DOVER STREET MARKET

35-37 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004

The iconic retail concept of Dover Street Market, founded by the visionary designer Rei Kawakubo, has landed in a 17th-century Parisian mansion. The store experience is rooted in discovery and driven by experimentation, distinguished by its innovative fusion of art, fashion, and culture set within a disruptive retail environment. Unlike traditional stores, DSM is conceived as an artistic space where every corner offers a new narrative. The interiors are intentionally non-linear, featuring bold art installations, innovative architectural structures, and product displays that challenge conventional retail design. Clothing is showcased on rounded, curved forms, ensuring that no piece touches the walls, creating a fluid, immersive experience. Raw materials like concrete, metal, and wood create an industrial aesthetic, contrasting with luxurious elements and contemporary artworks. The store operates as a living art gallery, allowing customers to explore and discover iconic fashion pieces in a setting that constantly evolves.

Dover Street Market Paris - Photo Cosmetics IC

Dover Street Parfums -  Photo Cosmetics IC

DOVER STREET PARFUMS

11 bis Rue Elzevir, 75003

Dover Street Parfums is the only DSM location in the world devoted entirely to beauty, featuring a carefully curated selection of niche brands known for their unique vision. The store's design is distinctly futuristic, starkly contrasting its surroundings. Fragrances are displayed in egg-shaped niches, showcasing iconic fashion favourites like Maison Margiela, Helmut Lang, and Byredo, alongside cult brands like Arpa Studios, Golf le Fleur, and Raer, as well as scientific skincare lines. Spanning two floors, the store strongly emphasises non-binary cosmetics, reflecting a modern approach to beauty.

The store layout is designed to invite customers to explore and uncover hidden gems in its various nooks and crannies, offering a shopping experience filled with unexpected discoveries.

NEURAé

48 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004

The Neuraé concept store goes beyond merely selling products; it fosters a holistic experience that encourages customers to connect their emotional well-being with their skincare routine, establishing itself as a must-visit destination for innovative wellness spaces.

The store offers the brand's full range of products and features three distinct spaces dedicated to education and wellness. These include a meditation corner, a masterclass area, and an interactive headband experience. Here, a headband connects to a screen where the wearer’s emotions, evoked by applying Neuraé products, are visualized as artistic expressions. This interactive approach blends skincare with emotional well-being, making the store a truly immersive experience.

Neuraé - Photo Cosmetics IC 

INSPIRATION TOURS

Our Inspiration Tours are individually tailored guides to the world’s best beauty cities. From the K-beauty capital of Seoul to the laid-back cool of Los Angeles - we know where to shop and what to see to inspire your next innovation.

Contact the team today for more information.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds)

Sporting BEAUTY: Expanding the codes of luxury

Credits: Getty Images/Christian Petersen/ Shacarri Richardson

As the dust settles after the spectacular closing ceremony of the Paris Olympics, the intersection of two powerful cultural forces—luxury and sports—comes into sharp focus. In recent years, the worlds of sports and fashion have converged in unexpected ways, with athletes transforming from mere sports icons into fashion and beauty trendsetters. This evolution redefines luxury perception, moving it beyond the confines of traditional elegance and into the realm of strength, resilience, and aspirational living.

The Olympics have accelerated this trend, solidifying the connection between sports, luxury, and beauty like never before. As luxury strategist Eric Briones aptly puts it, "As luxury Maisons seek new avenues of influence, aligning with sports movements—particularly the Olympics—means becoming part of a broader cultural shift." For fashion and beauty brands, this is an opportunity to redefine female beauty as not just glamorous but also powerful and healthy—a vision that resonates deeply with a Millennial audience increasingly devoted to fitness and wellness as a lifestyle.

In this article, we explore how the codes of luxury and beauty are being expanded through the lens of sports culture, and what this means for brands looking to stay ahead in an ever-evolving marketplace.

Luxury meets Sports – Fostering common values

Credits: Louis Vuitton/LVMH

LVMH made a culture-changing move when it became the first luxury brand to sponsor the Olympic Games, with a partnership valued at 150 million euros (accounting for nearly 1% of the conglomerate’s 2023 profits). The investment reflects LVMH's commitment to expanding its influence far beyond athlete endorsements and its desire to align itself with the aspirations and ideals of athletes and sports fans alike. 

The premiumization of the Olympics signals a clear shift in power dynamics and is part of the wider "luxuryfication" of sports, which sees brands increasingly targeting middle-class consumers seeking to emulate the lifestyles of elite athletes. What unites these, apparently distant, universes is the pursuit of excellence and quality.

From Chaumet-designed medals to French athletes wearing Berluti-designed outfits at the opening ceremony, and medal bearers donning vintage-style, distinctly French LVMH uniforms, the House’s influence has been evident. And LVMH's investment has already yielded impressive results. The brand has dominated social media conversations surrounding the Games, generating significantly more value than its competitors.

Connecting Beauty, Athletes, and Volunteers – A new era of influencers

The Olympics have always been a platform for showcasing athletic excellence, but today, they're also playing a pivotal role in ushering in a new era of influencers. With gender parity achieved for the first time and the rising influence of Gen Z, beauty culture is becoming an integral part of the sporting landscape.

Gen Z’s seamless integration of beauty into their everyday lives has led to a surge in sports and beauty partnerships, with brands like Glossier and Fenty Beauty leaning into the global exposure of the Olympics to extend their influence with this cohort. 

Glossier's ongoing partnership with the US women's basketball team not only provides athletes with beauty products but also leverages their massive social media following to propel the brand even further in the minds of consumers. As the popularity of the sport, and the individual profile of its star players, continues to soar, Glossier becomes intertwined with a powerful projection of style, success, and excellence. It’s a magnetic mix, and we can expect to see more of these types of collaborations in the future. 

Always a brand taking the most inclusive approach, Fenty Beauty brought another type of influencer to global attention during the Games - the volunteer. Over 600 of them, aged 18 to 21,  received Fenty Beauty makeup kits and tutorials, which allowed them to create “designated looks” with guidance from an on-site MUA (Source: Forbes). The global TV exposure of volunteers during the medal ceremonies ensured Fenty products were consistently on show. 

Beauty - An empowering medium in sports 

Credits: Getty Images/Sam Barnes / Sha'Carri Richardson (left) and Noah Lyles (right)

Forget race times, this year, the Olympics was captivated by a new kind of performance: beauty. Athletes like Sha'Carri Richardson used bold nails, expressive hairstyles, and tattoos to tell their personal stories of resilience and self-belief. From Richardson's Olympic-themed nail gems, emblazoned with her iconic "I'm not back. I'm better" message, to Noah Lyles' electric blue "icon" nails, beauty became a platform for self-expression and empowerment.

It was evident that beauty is increasingly being embraced by athletes as a means of amplifying their stories and achievements on a global stage. In this way, beauty has become an effective medium for connecting supreme health with personal identity.  This taps into a powerful cultural shift: 70% of consumers now prioritize health and appearance, and athletes embody that perfect blend (Source: McKinsey & Co - The top wellness trends in 2024 - January 2024). Beauty brands are taking notice, integrating with sports to connect with an audience where fitness is a core part of their self-identity. 

The Cosmetics IC Take

In this evolving landscape, luxury brands are venturing into the sports arena, aligning their ambitions with a new cultural movement and embracing values of resilience, health, and elevated performance. 

The Olympics have helped to propel a new vision of femininity, one where beauty is intrinsically linked to success. And brands are already adapting to this cultural shift by forging targeted partnerships with sports stars. Serena Williams’ Wyn Beauty, launched in April 2024, exemplifies this integration. Marketed as “makeup you can move in,” Wyn Beauty combines clean, high-performing ingredients with innovative textures designed for active lifestyles. This approach underscores a growing focus on sweat and smudge-proof formulas, addressing the needs of consumers who value both performance and aesthetics.

Similarly, the Athletic Cosmetic Company’s water-resistant mascara, The G.O.A.T. The Greatest of All Time (January 2024), highlights the shift towards cosmetics that withstand rigorous activity. These developments reflect the broader trend of blending beauty with sports, catering to the evolving demands of an active and style-conscious audience.

Further insight and inspiration on the new perceptions of luxury and the links between sport and beauty is available in the agency’s latest trend reports: Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S.

Contact the team today for more information!

Gen Alpha – Next Gen Power

Photo: Indu - source Instagram

Generation Alpha is making waves in the beauty industry as indirect purchasers but also as a major influence over other generations. However, the #SephoraKids phenomenon – young skintellectuals buying into adult-skewed beauty brands - has raised concerns regarding marketing to minors and has triggered a wave of scrutiny into beauty brand ethics. Now, this cohort of 2 billion is being catered to by a new wave of brands that speak directly to their needs. 

Who is Gen Alpha?

Gen Alpha is the generation born from 2010 (to 2025), totaling over 2 billion people worldwide - making them the largest generational cohort. More than digital natives, they are also the first generation to experience remote services - from streamed entertainment to virtual classrooms.

Beauty addicts

Gen Alpha is a generation of beauty addicts, with teens now spending an average of $324 annually on core beauty products, up +23% YoY (Source: US - Piper Sander). Gen A’s projected combined spending power in 2024 exceeds $5.39 trillion, surpassing Millennials and outpacing Gen Z. It is clear that there is a huge opportunity for brands to capture the imaginations of this highly engaged demographic.

Major household influencers

Gen Alpha exert more influence over their parents than any other generation that has preceded them - 92% of Gen Alpha parents say their children regularly introduce them to products, services, or brands (Source: DKC’s analytics group). This influence extends over nearly every product category, including Prestige beauty, where spending in households with children outpaces those without (16% vs 6%, Source: Circana). Prestige fragrance sales among higher-income households (over $100,000) with children also grew at twice the rate compared to households without children (Source: Circana Q1, 2024). 

Creating a new Eldorado

Progressive brands are beginning to walk the tightrope between appealing to Gen Alpha skintellectuals while mitigating the ethical dilemma of promoting responsible skincare usage. 

These include brands like Indu (UK), which has just secured $5.1M in seed funding (led by Unilever Ventures) and will launch into US stores in 2025. Formulated for and by teens, Indu works with a community of over 250 young consumers to develop its product range and marketing campaigns. In June, the brand launched the Indu 101 blog - a content platform designed to educate teens about skincare and provide a safe space for experimenting with new makeup trends. Also taking an educational approach, teen skincare brand Byoma (UK) has created the “MiSKINformed” campaign to highlight misinformation in the skincare space.  Bubble (US) recently collaborated with the Pixar movie Inside Out 2 (a movie about the mental health experiences of a pre-teen) to create a three-step barrier-boosting routine designed to address “your days’ ups and downs”. 

The Cosmetics IC Take

Between business opportunities and ethical dilemmas, brands must consider this generation with caution. Successful brands already operating in this space (outlined above) not only share an affordable and accessible price point but also share a transparent approach that appeals to both Alphas and their parents.  Brands must propose age-appropriate answers to young consumers’ needs and take on the role of educators and myth-busters (as we’ve seen Dove and Kiehl’s do to great effect recently).

As Alphas exert their influence over the industry, the agency continues to pay close attention to their behaviors and needs. To understand the specificities of this fascinating new generation of beauty consumers and explore new business opportunities, contact us today for your Gen Alpha Beauty report. In the meantime, you can explore our latest trend report, Makeup Inspiration from the USA: Higher Perspectives, where we dive into the current dynamics shaping the makeup sector.

TikTok: July 2024 Trend Inspiration

Sources: @illumin_arty / @christendominique / @hayleybuix

Every month the Cosmetics IC social media team takes the pulse of TikTok to unearth the biggest beauty trends, viral hacks and buzzing products. In July, summer skin is high on the agenda with the rise of a new bronzer hack, and character-driven looks continue to capture the imagination of creative makeup fans. Read on to discover which pop icon’s look is on everyone’s moodboard this month.

1. Bronzer as concealer - New beauty hack

TikTokers are trying a new technique to correct the color of dark undereye circles. The trick is to use bronzer as a color corrector to darken the area around the eyes, blend, and then apply concealer over the top. The warm tones in the bronzer cancel out the purple tones in the dark circles and open up the features to create more definition. The trend demonstrates the expanding use of bronzers beyond traditional applications.

#concealerhack (711.8M total views in the US)

@christendominique / @mimiermakeup / @makeupbymonicaa/

 2. Flower bag hack - arty vibes

TikTokers are becoming increasingly skilled at finding ways to express their creativity. This month, they are using a technique that involves filling a small plastic bag with water, tying it then painting the bottom in bright colors. The painted side of the bag is then pressed against the skin, leaving the impression of a flower. More detail is then added by hand, to create bold and intricate artworks.

#flowermakeup (33M total views in the U.S)

@illumin_arty / @natashajanewood / @hicosmina

3. Lisa Blackpink makeup - Kpop Tok

K-pop star Lisa from Blackpink has triggered a new trend on TikTok with the release of the video for her solo single “Rockstar”. Fans are transforming into Lisa’s high-glam look, with ethereal skin, double-lined iridescent eyes, super-glossy lips, and crystal accents.

#lisablackpink (794.6M total views in the U.S)

 @hayleybuix / @taontm / @abigelic

The Cosmetics IC Take

Our new trend report, Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S., explores how treat culture continues to impact the U.S. beauty sector, which filters through in TikTok users’ love of high glamour and celebrity-inspired looks (#lisablackpink). The report also examines how new consumer archetypes are adopting an art student mentality to experimentation, thinking outside of the box to bring new levels of creativity and invention to the makeup space (#flowermakeup).

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

Sources: Cosmetics IC – July 2024 

Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (From June 16, 2024 to July 14, 2024 vs May 19, 2024 to June 16, 2024)

Key Skincare Trends on Social Media

Deathtostock – Photography by Shauna Summers

Social media’s role in beauty continues to expand and evolve from a place of inspiration to a source of innovation. New trends, techniques, and semantics cascade from the online universes of TikTok and IG to the offline world, changing the very culture of skincare and makeup. With the power to create new narratives that alter consumer behaviors, social media is more than just a playground – it’s an essential insight tool.

Every month, the Cosmetics IC team works alongside social media data analysts (Spate and Tribe Dynamics) to decipher the latest beauty trends, identify the most inspiring influencers and spotlight the buzzing products that are shifting the dial on beauty.

Here is a snapshot from our latest skincare social analysis, taken from March 2024:

Top 3 Skincare Brands March 2024(1) – Propelled by Younger Generations.

N° 1. (in EMV) Summer Fridays: +140% YoY

Summer Fridays celebrated its 6th birthday in March with the launch of the Jet Lag Overnight Eye Serum, building on the success of its original hero product – the Jet Lag Mask. Every birthday deserves a good party, and the brand hosted its own at The Grove Los Angeles, with a travel-inspired pop-up called “In The Clouds”. Customers could sample the new products and shop limited edition merch in a dreamy, minimalist setting.

N° 2. (in EMV) Glow Recipe: +141% YoY

The Korean-inspired brand is one of Gen Alpha’s favorite skincare brands, boosted by Tiktok (representing 33% of their EMV). It was also boosted by the launch of the Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Hue Drops at the end of February, which was promoted with a number of viral activations, including “The Dewy World of Glow Recipe” pop-up at Times Square on the 22nd of March. Customers received a complimentary engraving on a full-size purchase of Watermelon Glow Hue Drops or Dew Drops.

N° 3. (in EMV) Sol de Janeiro: +114% YoY

Always a much-talked-about brand on TikTok, Sol de Janeiro is adored by Gen Z (and increasingly by Gen Alpha), tapping the algorithm with videos that explore their product’s more playful and sensorial aspects. The new Rio Radiance SPF 50 collection (sunscreen spray, oil and lotion) was launched in March with a video starring celebrity influencer Sofia Richie Grainge.

Top TikTok Skincare Trends March 2024 – Savvy consumers find new paths for skin solutions adapted to their needs and wallets.

Skin Streaming – Simplified Skincare Routines

#skinstreaming (51.3M views)(2)– Influencer to watch: @dermguru

Skin Streaming is a trend focused on simplifying skincare routines by using fewer products that serve multiple purposes, rather than relying on a multitude of single-use products. “Skin Streaming” achieves a +34460% MoM and a +16660% YoY increase.(3)

Matte Sunscreens – Shine-Free Protection

#softmattesunscreen (13.1M views)(2) – Influencer to watch: @paularmzz

Matte sunscreen offers sun protection while avoiding a greasy or shiny finish. Trending products include Bubble’s Solar Mate and Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick. “Matte Sunscreen” achieves a +2533% MoM and a +507% YoY increase.(3)

Turmeric Masks – Homemade Radiance Remedies

#turmericfacemask (42.9M views)(2) – Influencer to watch: @anci.social

In March, Turmeric Masks experienced a surge in popularity as internet users crafted their own glow-inducing topical remedies. Turmeric’s rich antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are believed to bring brightening and radiance to the skin. “Turmeric Mask” achieves a +92% MoM and a +222% YoY increase.(3)

Buzzing products on TikTok – Highlights the ever-growing interest in K-Beauty and porcelain skin.

Cosrx – The 6 Peptide Skin Booster

#skinflooding (265.9M views)(2)

COSRX’s 6 Peptide Skin Booster, introduced in August 2023, is gaining visibility thanks to the growing interest in the skin flooding trend. Skin flooding, akin to moisture sandwiching, hydrates by layering products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods, with Hyaluronic Acid as a key player. “Skin Flooding” has surged by +2292% MoM.(3)

I’m From – Rice Toner

#ricetoner (93M views)(2)

I’m From’s Rice Toner has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, alongside brands like Tirtir, amid a growing interest in K-beauty. Rice toner, infused with rice extracts, aims to hydrate, brighten, and refine the complexion. “Rice Toner” has surged by +2955% YoY.(3)

SKNBODY – Hair Identifier Spray

#sknbodysprayfacialhairshavekit (159M views)(2)

Launched in February 2024, the Sknbody Hair Identifier Spray aims to simplify dermaplaning by coloring hairs white, making them more visible for precise shaving. When influencers began testing the product in March, it caused a big buzz on social media, with some videos clocking up over 15 million views.(2)

Learn more

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

A special thank you to our data partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate.

About Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation is an international trend forecasting and consulting agency founded in Paris in 2007. The agency is dedicated to driving beauty and wellness innovation, helping brands identify new pathways and realize long-term growth through strategic foresight and trend inspiration. The agency regularly delivers in-depth trend reports covering the global beauty markets, decoding the latest inspirations and market data, and deciphering the latest product releases to feed your brand’s innovation process. We convert insights and inspiration into bespoke leverages, tailored to specific goals and ambitions.

In a consultancy capacity, our global team of industry experts, cultural strategists, product developers and beauty chemists work closely with brands to inspire new product directions and build innovative concepts. We have worked alongside the R&D departments of some of the world’s leading makeup and skincare brands to elevate their scientific message and inspire future-proofed innovation.

Contact

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds).

(1) Tribe Dynamics USA – March 2024 – All social media: Instagram, Youtube, Facebook, Twitter, TikTok, Pinterest, Blog – Progression Month over Month (Mar 2024 vs Feb 2024) – EMV: Earn Media Value
(2) Cosmetics IC Manual Count – TikTok – March 2024
(3) Spate – US TikTok searches – Month over Month (Mar 2024 vs Feb 2024) & Year over Year (from Apr 2023 to Mar 2024 vs Apr 2022 to Mar 2023)

HIGHER FUTURES: Decoding the science & tech Beauty revolution

Source: DeathtotheStock: Photography by Nick Fancher

The pandemic propelled the dynamic digitalisation of our lives; we invited new technologies and scientific solutions into our homes (and bodies) as we sought new approaches and answers to rapidly emerging challenges. In the interim years we have seen the propulsion of Artificial Intelligence further expand our expectations and experience of the world, its capabilities presenting enticing opportunities for brands to develop truly amazing new products and services.

As consumers recognise that science and technology hold the keys to the quest for heightened efficacy, performance, and pleasure, investment in science-led beauty brands is exceeding that in nature-led brands by 2.5x.(1) Within this context, Cosmetics IC developed the strategic perspective of Higher Futures—a call for brands to lead with technology, leverage consumer trust in science, and address the demand for STEM-based beauty solutions while solving humanity’s major challenges.

At a special conference for MakeUp in Paris 2024, Cosmetics IC invited attendees to discover the transformative impact of a science-centric approach to beauty. Read on for an extract of our presentation, where we highlighted three strategic territories for investigation: Augmented Science, Amplified Reality and Post-natural Future, representing the opportunities that await those brands open to leading with science.

Augmented Science: Next-level efficiency

Traditional categories are being redefined by heightened expectations for performance and perfection, influenced by the ubiquity of derma procedures and the growing emphasis on well-being. This compels brands to investigate hyper-personalised solutions and at-home experiences, leaning into the latest technologies to biohack the body, boost longevity, and elevate the daily beauty ritual. AI-powered devices, smart materials and precision-personalized formulas will blur the lines between clinical and convenience.  

• STEM-symbiotic solutions are infiltrating all categories as society awakens to the transformative potential of new technologies. At New York Fashion Week, designer Christian Cowan collaborated with Adobe to produce an electronically activated dress meticulously crafted from hundreds of laser-cut polymer liquid crystals. The dress becomes a “dynamic canvas,” intuitively shifting in color and tone several times a second.

• At VivaTech 2024, L'Oréal unveiled Cutaneous Technology, a revolutionary bioprinting process that recreates human skin in its full complexity. This breakthrough allows for inclusive and realistic testing across all skin types, paving the way for personalized beauty products and potentially accelerating advancements in dermatological research and burn treatment.

Amplified Reality: Interversal senses

Defying physical boundaries, human-tech symbiosis is creating "intraversal" realities - universal experiences that bridge the digital and physical worlds. This union opens up new possibilities, evoking joy through immersive encounters and the integration of phygital realms. These advancements not only enhance our capacity for interconnectedness but also introduce novel sensations. A new dimension of sensory experience, characterised by tactile hedonism, is emerging, enriching our perception and engagement with the world. This level of intense immersion is being adapted into the retail experience as brands re-imagine physical stores as sensory playgrounds primed for consumer engagement.

• Across all categories and industries, technology is being used as a conduit to amplify sensation. At Milan Design Week 2024, Samsung Design's "Newfound Equilibrium" exhibition took visitors on a multi-sensory journey through five spaces, each exploring a different aspect of a harmonious future where technology seamlessly blends with humanity. The exhibit showcased the promise and potential of technology in enriching our lives. 

• At VivaTech 2024, Guerlain pushed the boundaries of fragrance with an olfactory VR experience. Visitors donned a custom headset and entered a world where iconic Guerlain scents were paired with AI-generated landscapes and the perfumer's creative whispers, showcasing the growing interplay of technology and emotion in art and design. 

Post-natural Future: Deep engagement

In the future, a new intelligence will emerge to respond to the need to create sustainable models that prioritize both survival and empathy for our planet and nature. In this context, technology must be used with intention and functionality, focusing on delivering outcomes that benefit people and the environment. This vision of the future will require combining efficiency, aesthetics, and pleasure while keeping sustainability a central mission. Brands should be encouraged by growing consumer support for synthetics - 20% of  U.S. consumers recognize lab-grown, natural-identical ingredients as effective and safe (22%). (2)

• Forward-thinking solutions are redefining how we source, create, and utilise resources across different sectors. As one of the major polluters of drinking water across the globe, the textile industry is leading the way in eco-friendly innovation. UK brand Normal Phenomena of Life is pioneering “grown-to-order” lifestyle products, combining the expertise of a design research laboratory and a biotechnology company. The first launch includes clothing dyed with bacteria, prints made with algae ink and objects made with bio-concrete designed by microbes.

•  Equally in the world of beauty, science and technology are allowing for the development of sustainable, vegan solutions that offer an alternative to chemicals. Always leading with innovation, The Unseen Beauty has developed The ABSORPTION collection featuring Algae Black™, the world's first non-toxic and sustainable black pigment for beauty products.  

The COSMETICS IC Take

• Brands must embrace radical innovation that delivers effectiveness,  sensorial pleasure and sustainability. 

• Imagine modular textures and fragrances adapting to climate or thermal conditions alongside multi-level experiences that engage touch, smell, and sight. 

• The fusion of technology with the body is taken to extremes by billionaire biohackers, but despite the sci-fi ramifications, “longevity” has quickly become a mainstream pursuit. This should inspire brands to develop new products, treatments, and rituals that promote hyper-health. 

• Inspiration from the advancements in sustainable sourcing and production within the fashion and textile industries can provide valuable insights for the beauty sector's journey towards a more responsible future.

Dive Deeper

Further insight and inspiration on the rise of science and technology in beauty is available in the agency’s latest trend reports: Beauty Protopia: Skincare Inspiration from the US . Contact the team today for more information!

Contact us

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds)

Sources:

(1). Accenture - The reinvention of beauty - 2023

(2). Mintel- Beauty and Personal Care Trends - 2023

THE RISE OF PRO-AGING: TRANSFORMING THE NARRATIVES AROUND AGE

Source: Haus Labs

The relation to aging is in deep metamorphosis, and the Beauty industry needs to adapt to this evolution. With Gen X and Boomers living longer and looking to age gracefully, and Gen Z undertaking preventive measures like Botox, the “anti-aging” market is shifting toward a well-aging movement. The longevity narrative infuses all categories, from skincare to makeup, transforming the conversation around “anti-aging beauty” (a taboo word since 2017 in Allure USA magazine). 

In its latest Inspiration Report: Beauty Protopia, Cosmetics Inspirations & Creation explores the trend for Pro-Aging Solutions and spotlights the demand for products that empower healthier (not younger) aging. 

The tide is turning on anti-agism. From the success of ABC’s The Golden Bachelor (#TheGoldenBachelor hashtag has been viewed 148.4M times on TikTok – April 2024) to 88-year-old Dame Maggie Smith’s star turn in Loewe’s Spring 24 campaign, there is a groundswell of positive sentiment (and coolness) towards diverse age representations in fashion and media. 

Aging Positively – The new cool mindset 

Cultural momentum has been fuelled by TikTok, where a new wave of age-positive influencers, filters and viral challenges are helping to build a positive discourse around aging. 

The #TurningMyMomInToMe TikTok trend (460.7M views – April 2024) joyfully sees Gen Z daughters dress like their mothers and vice-versa, while the Age Progression Filter shows users smiling as their face changes over 50 years. On TikTok, makeup for #matureskin (576.7M views - April 2024) is also gaining momentum, propelled by a new generation of "maturetokkers", such as @collen_heidemann (383.6K followers – April 2024) who started her influencer journey at age 69. 

These gestures are reinforcing #agepositivity (27.8M views on TikTok – April 2024) at a time when the world must learn to adjust to the needs of an aging population. By 2050, there will be 2.1 billion people aged 60 and over, and consumers are taking control now to ensure live better for longer. Most Americans (76% according to Ipsos - American affluents spending $200B on wellness annually - July 19, 2023) actively do things to maintain or improve their health, with 92% of consumers believing the best approach to healthy aging focuses on inside-out well-being. 

This mindset shift creates an opportunity for brands to inspire consumers with solutions that support and enhance healthy aging, through every life stage. 

Mature Skin Makeup 

With a sharp rise in searches for mature makeup (+30.3% on Google in the USA - Spate Tool - US Google Search - from Apr 2023 to Mar 2024 vs. Apr 2022 to Mar 2023), brands are stepping up to cater to this demographic. Offering "skinified" formulas, they enhance luminosity and combat signs of aging with youth-boosting ingredients. 

The age-positive beauty brand Flyte.70 targets specifically the mature skin market with age-appropriate formulations that address specific issues of mature skin. The brand opened a flagship store in October 2023 in Massachusetts, with not only their brand but also 14 other brands. 

At the same time, we witness a growing number of beauty brands showcasing their products' efficacy on mature skin, not only meeting consumer needs but also fostering inclusivity and authenticity. This strategic move not only boosts brand image but also sets new standards for beauty. 

Here are some interesting examples from our inspiration basket from our last Makeup-Up report. The Haus Labs Triclone Skin Tech Hydrating + Depuffing Concealer (September 2023) is demonstrated on both young and mature models. It is powered with 20+ skincare ingredients including the brand’s patent-pending Fermented Arnica. Flexible pigments allow the concealer to adhere and adapt to the skin, making it comfortable for all skin ages. 

Lifting and brightening results have become desired features of the healthy aging aesthetic, and will become important elements for brands to consider in their innovation. Like, Physician Formula Eye Booster Eye Lifter (October 2023) - a 2-in-1 eyeshadow that delivers an instant lift thanks to its Tri-Peptide blend. 

Interest in Peptide-packed products that boost Collagen and Elastin while beautifying will continue to gain traction and become key to the “pro-aging” makeup kit. Reeson’s Lid Elixir (July 2023 - new brand) is a Peptide-rich tinted lifting serum developed for the eyelids. The brand positions itself as age-inclusive, its tagline, "Glow isn't just for 20-somethings”, actively encourages older consumers to embrace their mature skin. 

Learn more

For more information on The Rise of Pro-Aging, and for details on how to obtain a copy of Beauty Protopia: Makeup or Skincare Inspiration from the US, find the Cosmetics IC team at the MakeUp in Paris Trends Space - Booth T4, May 29th & 30th 2024. 

IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 2024: OPTIMAL FUTURE - THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

Source: Deathtothestock - Photo by Daniel Faro

Following three days of intense innovation-hunting at the recent in-Cosmetics Global 2024 (April 16 to 18, Paris),  our experts have identified 4 key trends that will transform the world of cosmetic ingredients.

Our full coverage of the show will be published in the upcoming report, Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024. Below is a taster trend from the team’s comprehensive analysis - read on to discover ingredients at the cutting edge of science.

OPTIMAL FUTURE: THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

While consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of science and new technologies, suppliers are responding by developing ingredients that allow brands to create even more technically elevated products.

Growing trust in the science community (57% of respondents rate scientists as trustworthy) should spur brands to invest in forward-thinking innovations. Accenture reports that brands championing science-led claims secure 2.5 times more venture capital funding compared to their counterparts focused solely on natural and sustainable claims. This is fertile ground for beauty brands, who have an opportunity to leverage science-backed formulations and innovations as a cornerstone of trust and credibility in their offerings.

1. BIOMIMETIC BOOSTERS

The exosome boom

As exosomes gain interest in cosmetics for their application in anti-aging solutions (US Google searches for Exosome Therapy have increased +82.5% YoY*), there has been a significant increase in exosome-related ingredient innovation. The surge in exosome-based formulas will help propel the exosome market size to $3.2B in 2032, growing at a CAGR of 29.9% from 2023. 

• GFC Life Science – Camellia Stem-Exo (Korea) 

This new exosome ingredient is derived from antioxidant-rich Camellia Callus. The exosome has a high-absorption function, due to being 184-462 times smaller than skin pore size and key claims include anti-inflammatory (18.86% reduction in Nitric Oxide) and whitening effects (13.00% reduction in extracellular melanin production).

• Exolab Italia – Exo Elixir Camellia Sinensis (Italy)

Exolab has harnessed the active power of organic exosomes derived from untreated Camellia Sinensis, rich in polyphenols and catechins. Exo-Elixir Camellia Sinensis encapsulates key active ingredients like EGCG and vegetable Melatonin for neurocosmetic effects. Other innovations include exosomes derived from Alpine Rose for photo-aging, Liquorice for elasticizing, and fresh fruits for skin repair. 

Source: Exolab - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

• CHAMeditech – CHA-Centella CA6 Probiotic EV & CHA-Tremella TF1 Probiotic EV (Korea)

Created from the synergy of three exosomes found in lactobacilli, these probiotic ingredients claim to have superior anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects that help maintain healthy skin. The bacteria-derived exosomes calm irritation, prevent pigmentation and strengthen the barrier.

Bio-mirrors 

New innovations promise next-level efficacy, mimicking biological functions to improve skin penetration and active assimilation.

• LipoTrue – Frag-Brillin remastered™ (Spain)

Drawing on a vast data set that integrates various technology platforms, in silico and biomimetic Peptide design, and marine biology research, LipoTrue™ has developed Frag-Brillin remastered™, a biomimetic fragment of human Fibrillin-1 grown in plants. It enhances skin elasticity by triggering TGFβ repair response, bolstering cellasticity, and reducing wrinkle-inducing microfibril degradation, thus revitalizing skin's structural integrity and appearance.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

• Lucas Meyer Cosmetics – Corneopeptyl™ (Swiss - recently bought by Clariant)

Corneopeptyl™ represents an innovative biomimetic Peptide, synthesized through green chemistry. It mirrors the activity of the LCE6A Protein, fortifying the corneocyte envelope to enhance skin barrier function and tackle premature aging by diminishing wrinkles and enhancing skin texture, firmness, and moisture levels.

• Odycea – Opal Alga GW (France) 

Opal Alga harnesses dynamic light-responsive technology, inspired by the behavior of Cystoseira Tamariscifolia, to revitalize fatigued skin impacted by modern stressors. It harmonizes the skin’s microenvironment and restores its natural circadian rhythm for renewed vitality. Inspired by algae's adaptive behavior to light cycles, Odycea aims to optimize photosynthesis efficiency, illustrating their commitment to biomimicry in skincare innovation.

2. FAST-TRACKED FUNCTIONALITY 

Bio-inspired delivery systems

Several suppliers were inspired by nature to create new delivery systems that improve active access and allow for deeper penetration.

• Active Concepts – AC Exovitalize (Italy) 

Active Concepts is at the forefront of personal care innovation with core technology platforms including BioFermentation, Complex Actives, Extracts, Proteins, Delivery Systems, and Functional Materials. Their groundbreaking BioAuthentic Exosomes line introduces exosome-inspired delivery systems tailored for specific skincare benefits, such as AC ExoVitalize, which enhances cellular processes like oxidative phosphorylation and glycolysis, promoting a rejuvenated and lifted appearance at the cellular level.

• Bicosome – Bicobiome® (Spain) 

Bicobiome® targets oily scalps prone to dandruff, rebalancing the microbiome, reducing sebum formation, restoring scalp barrier function, and eliminating dandruff scales. Inspired by skin biology, Bicosome® mimics the skin's transportation system, the lamellar bodies. Upon application, Bicosomes® fuse with the skin surface, allowing smart disks to selectively penetrate targeted skin layers and deliver actives. Subsequently, Bicosome®-ordered lipid structures integrate into the skin matrix, reinforcing the barrier function without compromising skin health.

Plant-based delivery systems

Plant-inspired delivery systems leverage natural compounds and mechanisms to enhance the efficacy and bioavailability of active ingredients.

• CORE Biogenesis – Peauvita™ (France) 

The biotechnology firm based in Strasbourg, France, specializes in engineering plants to produce valuable Polypeptides for the cosmetic industry. Peauvita™, blends plant biotechnology with growth factors, incorporating Oleosomes - naturally occurring carriers found in all plant seeds - to ensure advanced skin delivery and controlled release, representing a transformative approach to skincare.

3. SMART BEAUTY

AI-optimized ingredients

With continued advancements in AI capabilities, suppliers are now using this technology to improve and optimize their ingredients and help find new formulation solutions.

LipoTrue – SP[AI]3™ (Spain)

SP[AI]3™ is a smart Peptide obtained in silico through AI among thousands of candidates, with optimal binding and specificity. It precisely targets key acne influencers to modulate sebum synthesis, reduce pore size and obstruction, and decrease inflammation.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

AI-assisted development

• Bloomage Biotechnology – Bloomcolla™ Coll III (China) 

Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ employs AI assistance to accurately select fragments rich in active human collagen sites, ensuring a final sequence that is completely homologous with human collagen. Its environmentally friendly production process offers advantages in safety and purity. Notably, Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ possesses unique active sites capable of binding to 11 integrins, effectively activating cell signaling pathways and providing superior soothing and repairing abilities.

• Cargill – Actigum™ Care (USA)

Actigum™ Care, with its 94.5% natural composition and innovative blend of starch and sclerotium gum, presents a sustainable alternative to traditional petro-based polymers. It provides superior functionality and sensorial enhancement through AI-based development.

The Cosmetics IC Take

New scientific developments offer outstanding benefits for beauty brands, as suppliers leverage the latest biomimetic technology to create potent, sustainable ingredients that double-down on efficacy. The integration of AI will continue at pace, promising next-level advancements and accelerated performance, hyper-attuned to individual specificities. 

Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024 will be available soon.

Contact the team for more details.

(*Source: Spate NY - US Search - from April 2023 to March 2024 vs. April 2022 to March 2023)

HOT SKINCARE TRENDS ON TIKTOK: BUZZING BRANDS AND LATEST TRENDS - MARCH 2024

Sources: @paularmzz: Bubble - Solar Matte / @dermarkologist: COSRX - The 6 Peptide Skin Booster / @theshealyfam: Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

Derma-influences continue to dominate the SkinTok conversation, with trending products linked to routines that promise to optimize skin health, from #skinflooding to #skinstreaming. Working with data analysis supplied by our partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate, the Cosmetics IC team has analyzed the latest skincare trends and products going viral on TikTok. Read on for our cut of the most interesting innovations and inspirations to emerge during early spring, 2024.

TOP TRENDS

1 - Skin Streaming

Fewer products, serving multiple purposes: this is the pillar of the #skinstreaming trend which involves adopting a routine that gives your skin exactly what it needs, at the right time, without overwhelming it with products. This considered approach ticks the boxes on functionality, cost-saving, skin sensitivity and sustainability, meeting the prevalent needs of young consumers. 

#Skinstreaming - 51.3M views/ +34460% MoM/ +16660% YoY

2 - Skin Microbiome

Ongoing conversations around skin health propels interest in the microbiome. Both customers and brands acknowledge the importance of maintaining a healthy biome as part of a holistic beauty routine, which drives interest in new products and routines adapted to reinforce the skin barrier. This conversation is fuelled by TikTok derma-influencers who are effectively communicating the importance of healthy bacteria in enhancing skin appearance.

#Skinmicrobiome - 36.3M views/ +9077% MoM/ +454% YoY

3 - Matte Sunscreen

As the warmer months approach in the West, the conversation turns to suncare. Sophisticated new formulations address the demand for a non-greasy, shine-free finish, as consumers embrace sun protection as part of their daily routine. K-beauty favorite, Beauty of Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick is gaining traction thanks to its smooth, non-sticky finish, developed with cosmetic chemist and influencer, @glowbyramon. 

#Softmattesunscreen - 13.1M views/ +2533% MoM / +507% YoY 

BUZZING BRANDS

1 - COSRX 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 

This multi-peptide skin booster was originally launched in August 2023 but is gaining traction due to its alignment with the #skinflooding (265.9M views) trend. Formulated with 6 different Peptides, it targets fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, all while smoothing and firming the skin. The product has become a favorite among fans of the skinflooding technique - where products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods are layered to create a moisture sandwich. 

Skin Flooding - +2292% YoY

2 - I’m From - Rice Toner

The Rice Toner from I’m From has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, which is seen as a key step to achieving #GlassSkin. Infused with skin-soothing rice extracts, the toner exfoliates, hydrates, brightens and refines the complexion, while forming a protective barrier to prevent water loss and improve radiance. 

#ricetoner - 93M views/ +2955% YoY

3 - Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

This novel product demonstrates the growing appetite for new innovations linked to cosmetic treatments. The spray simplifies dermaplaning by coloring the hairs on the face white, making them more visible for shaving. The product’s high visual appeal and strong before/after potential helped it create a buzz on the platform when influencers began testing the product in March. 

#sknbodysprayfcialhairshavekit - 159M views

The Cosmetics IC Take

We will be publishing a deep dive into the latest viral TikTok trends and weak signals in our upcoming Social Book 2024, dedicated to skincare and wellness. Sign up to our newsletter to be the first to hear when our new report drops. 

(Sources: Cosmetics IC - March 2024 / Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (March 2024 vs February 2024) & YoY (April 2023 to March 2024 vs from April 2022 to March 2023)

TREND WATCH: NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FW24/25

Source: Bevza NYFW FW 24/25

New York Fashion Week saw designers embracing a return to classic elements, with nods to traditional craftsmanship, twisted by unconventional accents and innovation. From Protection Mode to Soft Envelop, discover Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s edit of 5 key trends to watch:

#1 Soft Envelop

Source: Jason Wu NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Proenza Schouler NYFW FW 24/25

This season, luxurious warmth and comfort were a key part of the narrative, where a trend for soft, enveloping fabrics and silhouettes emerged, blurring the line between clothing and blankets. Models were draped in voluminous, billowing fabrics exuding an effortless sense of comfort and style on the runway. Garments cocooned the wearer in luxurious warmth and softness, as seen in Jason Wu's blanket coats and enveloping silhouettes, Tibi's minimal approach featuring free-flowing luxurious wool, and Proenza Schouler's safety-pinned scarf-sweaters.

#2 Mob Boss

Source: Puppets and Puppets NYFW FW 24/25

Source: LaQuan Smith NYFW FW 24/25

Why settle for Mob Wife when you can be Mob Boss? Featuring statement coats, faux fur, and dramatic collars, this trend tells the story of a powerful woman exuding confidence and sophistication, redefining power dressing for the modern femme fatale. Linked to the #mobwife trend on social media (amassing 16.9M views on TikTok), the bold narrative was embraced by designers like Prabal Gurung with big coats and intense eye makeup, LaQuan Smith with latex-like silk skirts and oversized faux fur, and Puppets and Puppets with fuzzy shawls hiding sheer dresses.

#3 Maximalist Chaos

Source: Dauphinette NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Libertine NYFW FW 24/25

Celebrating abundance and inviting fearless experimentation, Maximalist Chaos is a playful call to break free from conventions and express creativity with abandon, standing at the antipode of quiet luxury. There was an overload of print and pattern at Libertine and Dauphinette while at Wiederhoeft, models donned furry and shiny headpieces, extravagant sunglasses and overstacked belts. The rise of eclectic and exaggerated styling redefined the runway with a daring spirit of excess.

#4 Protection Mode

Source: Tory Burch NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Thom Browne NYFW FW 24/25

With the rise of a "preventive" mindset led by more educated consumers, we are seeing the emergence of a new utilitarian beauty that prioritizes functional protection in our everyday lives. Designers at the forefront of fashion experimentation have embraced a laboratory-inspired aesthetic, working with materials reminiscent of vinyl or plastic to convey hygiene, safety and security. This trend for utilitarianism pushes the boundaries of fashion and gives rise to confronting aesthetics - from Helmut Lang's secure wrapping techniques to Tory Burch's vinyl-like trench coats and Thom Browne's protective overshoe-style footwear.

#5 Grey Pride

Source: Batsheva NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Christian Cowan NYFW FW 24/25

Recent trend reports from Cosmetics IC have highlighted the rising impact of the "Aging Well" movement, a narrative that has cascaded onto the catwalks, where older models exude timeless elegance and sophistication. This season represented a significant shift, defying ageist standards and embracing beauty diversity, with models from brands like Batsheva, Bevza, and Christian Cowan showcasing that style is ageless, encouraging a celebration of beauty across all stages of life. 

The Cosmetics IC Take

This season, designers embraced boldness and inclusivity, celebrating individuality while merging fashion and function. From empowering styles to embracing age diversity, each trend reflects a dynamic shift toward self-expression and innovation. This also opens up new territories in the beauty landscape, paving the way for innovation and new narratives.

Learn more

Our latest reports: Inspiration Book: NYFW Fall/Winter 24/25, and What’s Up #20 - Inspiration from the U.S., explore the latest trends in beauty, contextualized with emerging consumer behaviors, cutting-edge innovations and cultural influences.

Discover the trends worth leaning into and the new territories to explore, by ordering your copy today.