SOCIAL MEDIA SNAPSHOT: THE SLEEPMAXXING MOMENT

In the past few months, trends like #MorningShed and #SleepyGirlMocktail have blown up online. With the rise of the "Sleep Economy," sleep has become a focal point for both beauty and wellness, prompting brands to develop innovative products aimed at enhancing sleep quality. This movement goes beyond a fleeting trend—it's evolving into a lifestyle, as new narratives and rituals surrounding sleep gain momentum.

Sources : @maytemyers / @misspeytonsmith / @joatgains

The Sleep Surge

In this new phase, sleep optimization is about a lot more than clocking eight hours. It is about improving sleep hygiene, sleep quality, and the entire sleep experience. Brands are tapping into this by developing products designed to optimize bedtime routines, leading to huge growth in sleep-related searches across social media. 

  • ‘Sleep’-related searches grew +124% (YoY - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29)

  • Searches for ‘sleep hygiene’ skyrocketed by +222% (YoY - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29) 

The Daily Shed

#TheDailyShed is a relatively recent trend that emerged in early summer. It involves revealing one’s wake-up beauty routine, focusing on the removal of nighttime products. Common elements include skincare treatments, like overnight peeling masks, anti-wrinkle patches, and undereye masks. It also extends to haircare, like silk bonnets or heatless curlers to maintain hairstyle and reduce frizz. Beauty enthusiasts also showcase the removal of mouth tapes, chin straps, and nasal dilators, used to regulate breathing. 

  • ‘Daily Shed’ searches grew +253.5% (quarter-over-quarter - U.S. TikTok - Oct 29)

 
 
 

The Sleepy Girl Mocktail

The #SleepyGirlMocktail is a beverage that gained popularity on TikTok in 2023 and has continued to trend into 2024. It's touted as a natural sleep aid, typically made with tart cherry juice, magnesium powder (+95.3% YoY TikTok views - Oct 29), and a splash of seltzer or lemon-lime soda. Proponents claim that the melatonin in tart cherry juice and the calming effects of magnesium can promote better sleep.

Brands like Moon Juice (+41.2% YoY TikTok views - Oct 29) have taken the opportunity to surf on the TikTok trend and deliver "Sleepy Girl™ Mocktail" supplements and recipes. Moon Juice’s signature sleep supplement is Magnesi-Om®, which contains three bioavailable forms of Magnesium and L-Theanine to enhance calmness. In October 2024, it also released the Cherry Sleepy Magnesi-Om, which more closely reflects the taste of the original Sleepy Girl Mocktail recipe, popularized by @gracie_norton.  The brand even boldly claims to be the  “Home of the Sleepy Girl Mocktail 🍒💤”.

  • ‘Sleepy Girl Mocktail’ has over 118.6M views on U.S. TikTok ( +711.7% YoY U.S. TikTok views - Oct 29)

Credit: Moon Juice


Nasal Dilators & Mouth Tapes

The most viral sleepmaxxing items on TikTok are mouth tapes and nasal dilators, which are often used in tandem to encourage breathing through the nose. Users claim they improve sleep quality, resulting in better overall health. Intake Breathing is one of the most popular nose strip brands on TikTok, however, some are taking a DIY approach, making their own breath-enhancing devices: @raizashow’s tutorial involving using two magnets and a strip of tape has garnered more than 28M views in less than 2 months. 

With the increasing popularity of nasal dilators and mouth tapes, experts are raising safety concerns and skepticism over the lack of scientific evidence to support their beneficial claims. Instead, sleep experts recommend focusing on basic sleep hygiene practices like maintaining a constant sleep schedule and creating a comfortable sleep environment, as well as limiting screen time before bed. James Wilson, known as The Sleep Geek, says consumers need to exercise caution when it comes to the whole sleepmaxxing movement. He believes that overemphasizing sleep optimization can lead to ‘orthosomnia’: the unhealthy obsession with achieving perfect sleep, which ultimately increases stress and anxiety and thus worsens sleep quality.

 
 
 

THE CIC TAKE

The sleep economy is expanding, as consumers demand products that are increasingly personalized, high-performing, and nuanced - 37% of U.S. consumers are looking for enhanced sleep products that also address cognitive functioning, stress, and anxiety management. This is a dynamic and thriving market, where engaged consumers are open to experimenting with new tools, treatments, and rituals. Our latest Inspiration Report, Higher Perspectives - The Future of Skincare and Wellness,  explores the emerging opportunities arising in sleep performance as consumers align their beauty and health goals. Contact us for more information.

Moving beyond sleeping better, new products are focusing on helping consumers maximize every moment,
including their downtime. The Nighttime Performer is prominent amongst the one-third of Americans who are interested in sleep monitoring devices and sleep-optimizing products and will invest in high-performance nighttime treatments and services. For them, sleep is intrinsic to wellness, and they will invest in rest to unlock peak daytime performance. With almost 9-in-10 Americans recognizing that quality of sleep matters more than quantity, there remains a huge opportunity for recovery-focused products.
— The Nighttime Performer, Higher Perspectives - The Future of Skincare & Wellness, Cosmetics IC

(U.S. TikTok data source: Spate)

COSMETIC360 - Strategic Innovations Shaping the Future of Cosmetics

Death to Stock - Daniel Faro

At Cosmetic360 on October 16-17, 2024 in Paris, the Cosmetics IC team explored key innovations redefining the future of beauty, from eco-conscious alternatives to bio-inspired actives, advanced UV defenses, and transformative textures. These discoveries reflect the industry’s strategic response to rising demands for sustainability, biomimetic technology, and long-lasting efficacy. Here, we highlight the standout technologies that promise to shape the next generation of cosmetics, addressing critical market needs with groundbreaking solutions.

1. Eco-Conscious Innovations: The Rise of Microplastic Alternatives in Cosmetics

As consumers increasingly seek sustainable cosmetic solutions, interest in microplastic alternatives has surged (U.S. Google searches for microplastics are up +73.7% YoY - Spate (from Oct 2023 to Sep 2024 vs. Oct 2022 to Sep 2023)). This demand has fueled innovations in microplastic-free ingredients designed to offer functional and environmentally friendly replacements.

  • Codif - Sensory Apple Pomace

Derived from upcycled Brittany apples, this micronized apple powder provides an alternative to PMMA, a microplastic soon to be banned in Europe. Sensory Apple Pomace delivers a matte, blurring effect on redness and imperfections, while tribology tests demonstrate its enhanced softness, reducing friction sound on the skin for a smoother sensory experience.

A fully biodegradable alternative to petroleum-based polymers, Dionymer’s PHBV is made through fermentation and is 100% biobased. This microplastic-free solution replicates the functionality of PP, PE, and PLA without the environmental impact, supporting cleaner, sustainable formulations.


2. Nature’s Defense Mechanisms: Biomimetic Skincare Innovations 

As bio-inspired ingredients gain popularity in skincare (global TikTok views for biomimetic have risen +21.3% YoY - Spate - (from Oct 29, 2023 to Oct 27, 2024 vs. Oct 30, 2022 to Oct 29, 2023)), novel active ingredients are emerging, rooted in nature’s adaptive mechanisms and refined through advanced biotechnology.

After eight years of research, Solabia developed Serenibiome, a bio-inspired ingredient derived from the epiphytic fungus Pseudozyma flocculosa, which naturally protects plants by producing lipids that guard against environmental stressors. This glycolipid-based active, stabilized through a biomimetic fermentation process, is designed for sensitive and atopic skin. Serenibiome selectively targets Staphylococcus aureus, a bacterium commonly linked to skin inflammation, helping to rebalance the microbiome, reduce neurogenic inflammation, and repair the skin barrier. Clinically tested, Serenibiome reduces redness, itching, and dryness, while increasing hydration and supporting the skin's overall resilience.

Shiloxome is an innovative anti-aging ingredient designed specifically for mature skin, particularly those affected by menopause or post-menopausal changes. Using the pioneering Triplobiome™ Technology, Shiloxome draws from endophytic organisms naturally present in cork oak. This yeast-derived active mimics the cork’s defense mechanisms, which protect it from environmental damage. Shiloxome offers strong anti-pollution and antioxidant benefits and promotes relipidation by boosting ceramide NS synthesis, helping to restore the skin’s protective barrier and resilience against urban stressors.


3. Advanced UV Defense: Long-Lasting Protection and SPF Boosting

With growing interest in long-lasting UV protection (global Google searches for Long Lasting + Sunscreen are up +77.2% YoY - Spate (from Oct 2023 to Sep 2024 vs. Oct 2022 to Sep 2023)), new innovations are enhancing sunscreen efficacy and durability.

Awarded the COSMETIC360 Raw Materials Award, SkyWhite offers a multifunctional cellulose-based alternative to titanium dioxide. Its 3D structure reflects UV rays, boosting SPF without TiO2. SkyWhite also emulsifies formulas and adapts color intensity: added in water, it produces a whiter effect, while in oils, it amplifies color depth.

Skinosive’s Bioadhesive Technology secures active ingredients on the skin’s surface, demonstrated in tests on chemical UV filters. It enhances protection by adhering sunscreen to the stratum corneum, preventing deeper penetration and offering up to 8 hours of proven UV defense, even under external stress.

4. Revolutionary Textures: Helical Emulsion in Cosmetics and 3D Printing

In the realm of innovative formulations, two cutting-edge technologies are reshaping cosmetic textures, merging precision and advanced design for a superior sensorial experience.

  • Experis - Helical Emulsion Technology

Experis introduces a new philosophy in natural formulation with its Helical Emulsion Technology, a sensory-driven, multifunctional approach (99% natural origin). Unlike traditional emulsions, where oil droplets remain separate and release rapidly, Helical Emulsion Technology distributes oil along this helical matrix, achieving a continuous, controlled release. This structure provides a gradual, immersive sensory experience, optimizing skin affinity, enhancing penetration, and creating a seamless fusion with the skin.

This patented 3D printing technology creates futuristic, airy textures in solid cosmetics. By incorporating up to 99% air in a controlled three-dimensional matrix, these cosmetics offer a lightweight application, reducing the greasy or sticky feel of traditional balms and sunscreens. The unique 3D structure also improves foaming in rinse-off products by increasing air and water interfaces, while the design minimizes oil content, enhancing texture and sensory appeal.

The Cosmetics IC Take

The innovations showcased at Cosmetic360 illustrate a robust evolution toward products that blend functionality with sustainability, bio-adaptive properties, and sensory appeal. These advances affirm the cosmetics industry’s commitment to both environmental responsibility and scientific innovation, positioning it to meet growing consumer expectations with high-performance, eco-responsible solutions.

Our team of experts is available to work on your latest innovations or tailor an inspiration report specific to your need.   

Contact the team for more details.

TREND INSPIRATION: SS25 beauty Snapshot

Palomo Spain NYFW SS25 - Lexie Moreland WWD

Following a packed SS25 fashion week schedule, the Cosmetics IC team highlights the most inspirational beauty looks from Paris, Milan, London, and New York.

Loewe PFW SS25

Simone Rocha LFW SS25

Loewe (PFW) went futuristic with oversized, silver cat eyes, giving the models an otherworldly and avant-garde appeal. There was a dramatic touch of nature at Simone Rocha (LFW), where floral masks made of carnation petals mirrored the collection for a breathtaking runway look.

Area NYFW Fall 2024

Chopova Lowena LFW SS25 - @laurenfreynolds

Area (NYFW) marked its 10th anniversary with a striking, all-over beauty statement. Tattoo-like stencils across models’ faces and bodies echoed the fingerprint-like patterns on the garments. Colourful clusters of gems framed the eyes in a sharp, wing-like design at Chopova Lowena (LFW), adding charm and sparkle to a standout beauty look.

Marni MFW SS25

Palomo Spain NYFW SS25

Marni (MFW) made waves with ultra-arched, pencil-thin eyebrows, blending old-school glamour with avant-garde beauty. Palomo Spain (NYFW) stunned with slicked-back hair and bleached brows, paired with bold orange accents for an avant-garde finish.

Diesel MFW SS25

Mugler PFW SS25

Diesel’s models (MFW) stunned with colored contact lenses, pushing fashion into sci-fi territory with a look straight out of Dune. Known for their bold designs, Mugler (PFW) pushed boundaries with sharp, V-cut bangs that covered the models’ faces, adding an ultra-edgy vibe.

The CIC Take

This is just a snapshot of our analysis from Fashion Week - contact us for our latest in-depth report.

Credits:
@theimpression_
Loewe
Simone Rocha
Area
@laurenfreynolds
Marni
Palomo Spain
Diesel
Mugler





PARIS INSPIRATION TOUR: Must-see stores in Le Marais

Continuing our Inspiration Tour of Paris, the team highlights its most inspiring new spots in Le Marais, a neighbourhood known for its mix of independent boutiques and innovative concept stores.

Discover some of our must-sees in Le Marais:

Korres - Photo Cosmetics IC

Korres

76 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003

The Korres boutique in Paris's 3rd arrondissement symbolizes the Greek brand's commitment to natural beauty and botanical science. The store seamlessly blends apothecary tradition with scientific innovation, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere reminiscent of an old pharmacy. The boutique’s material palette of stone, wood, and glass fosters an organic ambience that reflects the ingredients' purity.

Products are displayed by range and organized by skincare category or ingredient. Posters on the walls highlight the benefits of key ingredients such as honey and Greek yoghurt.

DOVER STREET MARKET

35-37 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004

The iconic retail concept of Dover Street Market, founded by the visionary designer Rei Kawakubo, has landed in a 17th-century Parisian mansion. The store experience is rooted in discovery and driven by experimentation, distinguished by its innovative fusion of art, fashion, and culture set within a disruptive retail environment. Unlike traditional stores, DSM is conceived as an artistic space where every corner offers a new narrative. The interiors are intentionally non-linear, featuring bold art installations, innovative architectural structures, and product displays that challenge conventional retail design. Clothing is showcased on rounded, curved forms, ensuring that no piece touches the walls, creating a fluid, immersive experience. Raw materials like concrete, metal, and wood create an industrial aesthetic, contrasting with luxurious elements and contemporary artworks. The store operates as a living art gallery, allowing customers to explore and discover iconic fashion pieces in a setting that constantly evolves.

Dover Street Market Paris - Photo Cosmetics IC

Dover Street Parfums -  Photo Cosmetics IC

DOVER STREET PARFUMS

11 bis Rue Elzevir, 75003

Dover Street Parfums is the only DSM location in the world devoted entirely to beauty, featuring a carefully curated selection of niche brands known for their unique vision. The store's design is distinctly futuristic, starkly contrasting its surroundings. Fragrances are displayed in egg-shaped niches, showcasing iconic fashion favourites like Maison Margiela, Helmut Lang, and Byredo, alongside cult brands like Arpa Studios, Golf le Fleur, and Raer, as well as scientific skincare lines. Spanning two floors, the store strongly emphasises non-binary cosmetics, reflecting a modern approach to beauty.

The store layout is designed to invite customers to explore and uncover hidden gems in its various nooks and crannies, offering a shopping experience filled with unexpected discoveries.

NEURAé

48 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004

The Neuraé concept store goes beyond merely selling products; it fosters a holistic experience that encourages customers to connect their emotional well-being with their skincare routine, establishing itself as a must-visit destination for innovative wellness spaces.

The store offers the brand's full range of products and features three distinct spaces dedicated to education and wellness. These include a meditation corner, a masterclass area, and an interactive headband experience. Here, a headband connects to a screen where the wearer’s emotions, evoked by applying Neuraé products, are visualized as artistic expressions. This interactive approach blends skincare with emotional well-being, making the store a truly immersive experience.

Neuraé - Photo Cosmetics IC 

INSPIRATION TOURS

Our Inspiration Tours are individually tailored guides to the world’s best beauty cities. From the K-beauty capital of Seoul to the laid-back cool of Los Angeles - we know where to shop and what to see to inspire your next innovation.

Contact the team today for more information.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds)

Sporting BEAUTY: Expanding the codes of luxury

Credits: Getty Images/Christian Petersen/ Shacarri Richardson

As the dust settles after the spectacular closing ceremony of the Paris Olympics, the intersection of two powerful cultural forces—luxury and sports—comes into sharp focus. In recent years, the worlds of sports and fashion have converged in unexpected ways, with athletes transforming from mere sports icons into fashion and beauty trendsetters. This evolution redefines luxury perception, moving it beyond the confines of traditional elegance and into the realm of strength, resilience, and aspirational living.

The Olympics have accelerated this trend, solidifying the connection between sports, luxury, and beauty like never before. As luxury strategist Eric Briones aptly puts it, "As luxury Maisons seek new avenues of influence, aligning with sports movements—particularly the Olympics—means becoming part of a broader cultural shift." For fashion and beauty brands, this is an opportunity to redefine female beauty as not just glamorous but also powerful and healthy—a vision that resonates deeply with a Millennial audience increasingly devoted to fitness and wellness as a lifestyle.

In this article, we explore how the codes of luxury and beauty are being expanded through the lens of sports culture, and what this means for brands looking to stay ahead in an ever-evolving marketplace.

Luxury meets Sports – Fostering common values

Credits: Louis Vuitton/LVMH

LVMH made a culture-changing move when it became the first luxury brand to sponsor the Olympic Games, with a partnership valued at 150 million euros (accounting for nearly 1% of the conglomerate’s 2023 profits). The investment reflects LVMH's commitment to expanding its influence far beyond athlete endorsements and its desire to align itself with the aspirations and ideals of athletes and sports fans alike. 

The premiumization of the Olympics signals a clear shift in power dynamics and is part of the wider "luxuryfication" of sports, which sees brands increasingly targeting middle-class consumers seeking to emulate the lifestyles of elite athletes. What unites these, apparently distant, universes is the pursuit of excellence and quality.

From Chaumet-designed medals to French athletes wearing Berluti-designed outfits at the opening ceremony, and medal bearers donning vintage-style, distinctly French LVMH uniforms, the House’s influence has been evident. And LVMH's investment has already yielded impressive results. The brand has dominated social media conversations surrounding the Games, generating significantly more value than its competitors.

Connecting Beauty, Athletes, and Volunteers – A new era of influencers

The Olympics have always been a platform for showcasing athletic excellence, but today, they're also playing a pivotal role in ushering in a new era of influencers. With gender parity achieved for the first time and the rising influence of Gen Z, beauty culture is becoming an integral part of the sporting landscape.

Gen Z’s seamless integration of beauty into their everyday lives has led to a surge in sports and beauty partnerships, with brands like Glossier and Fenty Beauty leaning into the global exposure of the Olympics to extend their influence with this cohort. 

Glossier's ongoing partnership with the US women's basketball team not only provides athletes with beauty products but also leverages their massive social media following to propel the brand even further in the minds of consumers. As the popularity of the sport, and the individual profile of its star players, continues to soar, Glossier becomes intertwined with a powerful projection of style, success, and excellence. It’s a magnetic mix, and we can expect to see more of these types of collaborations in the future. 

Always a brand taking the most inclusive approach, Fenty Beauty brought another type of influencer to global attention during the Games - the volunteer. Over 600 of them, aged 18 to 21,  received Fenty Beauty makeup kits and tutorials, which allowed them to create “designated looks” with guidance from an on-site MUA (Source: Forbes). The global TV exposure of volunteers during the medal ceremonies ensured Fenty products were consistently on show. 

Beauty - An empowering medium in sports 

Credits: Getty Images/Sam Barnes / Sha'Carri Richardson (left) and Noah Lyles (right)

Forget race times, this year, the Olympics was captivated by a new kind of performance: beauty. Athletes like Sha'Carri Richardson used bold nails, expressive hairstyles, and tattoos to tell their personal stories of resilience and self-belief. From Richardson's Olympic-themed nail gems, emblazoned with her iconic "I'm not back. I'm better" message, to Noah Lyles' electric blue "icon" nails, beauty became a platform for self-expression and empowerment.

It was evident that beauty is increasingly being embraced by athletes as a means of amplifying their stories and achievements on a global stage. In this way, beauty has become an effective medium for connecting supreme health with personal identity.  This taps into a powerful cultural shift: 70% of consumers now prioritize health and appearance, and athletes embody that perfect blend (Source: McKinsey & Co - The top wellness trends in 2024 - January 2024). Beauty brands are taking notice, integrating with sports to connect with an audience where fitness is a core part of their self-identity. 


The Cosmetics IC Take

In this evolving landscape, luxury brands are venturing into the sports arena, aligning their ambitions with a new cultural movement and embracing values of resilience, health, and elevated performance. 

The Olympics have helped to propel a new vision of femininity, one where beauty is intrinsically linked to success. And brands are already adapting to this cultural shift by forging targeted partnerships with sports stars. Serena Williams’ Wyn Beauty, launched in April 2024, exemplifies this integration. Marketed as “makeup you can move in,” Wyn Beauty combines clean, high-performing ingredients with innovative textures designed for active lifestyles. This approach underscores a growing focus on sweat and smudge-proof formulas, addressing the needs of consumers who value both performance and aesthetics.

Similarly, the Athletic Cosmetic Company’s water-resistant mascara, The G.O.A.T. The Greatest of All Time (January 2024), highlights the shift towards cosmetics that withstand rigorous activity. These developments reflect the broader trend of blending beauty with sports, catering to the evolving demands of an active and style-conscious audience.

Further insight and inspiration on the new perceptions of luxury and the links between sport and beauty is available in the agency’s latest trend reports: Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S.

Contact the team today for more information!

Gen Alpha – Next Gen Power

Photo: Indu - source Instagram

Generation Alpha is making waves in the beauty industry as indirect purchasers but also as a major influence over other generations. However, the #SephoraKids phenomenon – young skintellectuals buying into adult-skewed beauty brands - has raised concerns regarding marketing to minors and has triggered a wave of scrutiny into beauty brand ethics. Now, this cohort of 2 billion is being catered to by a new wave of brands that speak directly to their needs. 

Who is Gen Alpha?

Gen Alpha is the generation born from 2010 (to 2025), totaling over 2 billion people worldwide - making them the largest generational cohort. More than digital natives, they are also the first generation to experience remote services - from streamed entertainment to virtual classrooms.

Beauty addicts

Gen Alpha is a generation of beauty addicts, with teens now spending an average of $324 annually on core beauty products, up +23% YoY (Source: US - Piper Sander). Gen A’s projected combined spending power in 2024 exceeds $5.39 trillion, surpassing Millennials and outpacing Gen Z. It is clear that there is a huge opportunity for brands to capture the imaginations of this highly engaged demographic.

Major household influencers

Gen Alpha exert more influence over their parents than any other generation that has preceded them - 92% of Gen Alpha parents say their children regularly introduce them to products, services, or brands (Source: DKC’s analytics group). This influence extends over nearly every product category, including Prestige beauty, where spending in households with children outpaces those without (16% vs 6%, Source: Circana). Prestige fragrance sales among higher-income households (over $100,000) with children also grew at twice the rate compared to households without children (Source: Circana Q1, 2024). 

Creating a new Eldorado

Progressive brands are beginning to walk the tightrope between appealing to Gen Alpha skintellectuals while mitigating the ethical dilemma of promoting responsible skincare usage. 

These include brands like Indu (UK), which has just secured $5.1M in seed funding (led by Unilever Ventures) and will launch into US stores in 2025. Formulated for and by teens, Indu works with a community of over 250 young consumers to develop its product range and marketing campaigns. In June, the brand launched the Indu 101 blog - a content platform designed to educate teens about skincare and provide a safe space for experimenting with new makeup trends. Also taking an educational approach, teen skincare brand Byoma (UK) has created the “MiSKINformed” campaign to highlight misinformation in the skincare space.  Bubble (US) recently collaborated with the Pixar movie Inside Out 2 (a movie about the mental health experiences of a pre-teen) to create a three-step barrier-boosting routine designed to address “your days’ ups and downs”. 

The Cosmetics IC Take

Between business opportunities and ethical dilemmas, brands must consider this generation with caution. Successful brands already operating in this space (outlined above) not only share an affordable and accessible price point but also share a transparent approach that appeals to both Alphas and their parents.  Brands must propose age-appropriate answers to young consumers’ needs and take on the role of educators and myth-busters (as we’ve seen Dove and Kiehl’s do to great effect recently).

As Alphas exert their influence over the industry, the agency continues to pay close attention to their behaviors and needs. To understand the specificities of this fascinating new generation of beauty consumers and explore new business opportunities, contact us today for your Gen Alpha Beauty report. In the meantime, you can explore our latest trend report, Makeup Inspiration from the USA: Higher Perspectives, where we dive into the current dynamics shaping the makeup sector.

TikTok: July 2024 Trend Inspiration

Sources: @illumin_arty / @christendominique / @hayleybuix

Every month the Cosmetics IC social media team takes the pulse of TikTok to unearth the biggest beauty trends, viral hacks and buzzing products. In July, summer skin is high on the agenda with the rise of a new bronzer hack, and character-driven looks continue to capture the imagination of creative makeup fans. Read on to discover which pop icon’s look is on everyone’s moodboard this month.

 

1. Bronzer as concealer - New beauty hack

TikTokers are trying a new technique to correct the color of dark undereye circles. The trick is to use bronzer as a color corrector to darken the area around the eyes, blend, and then apply concealer over the top. The warm tones in the bronzer cancel out the purple tones in the dark circles and open up the features to create more definition. The trend demonstrates the expanding use of bronzers beyond traditional applications.

#concealerhack (711.8M total views in the US)

@christendominique / @mimiermakeup / @makeupbymonicaa/

 
 

 2. Flower bag hack - arty vibes

TikTokers are becoming increasingly skilled at finding ways to express their creativity. This month, they are using a technique that involves filling a small plastic bag with water, tying it then painting the bottom in bright colors. The painted side of the bag is then pressed against the skin, leaving the impression of a flower. More detail is then added by hand, to create bold and intricate artworks.

#flowermakeup (33M total views in the U.S)

@illumin_arty / @natashajanewood / @hicosmina

 
 

 

3. Lisa Blackpink makeup - Kpop Tok

K-pop star Lisa from Blackpink has triggered a new trend on TikTok with the release of the video for her solo single “Rockstar”. Fans are transforming into Lisa’s high-glam look, with ethereal skin, double-lined iridescent eyes, super-glossy lips, and crystal accents.

#lisablackpink (794.6M total views in the U.S)

 @hayleybuix / @taontm / @abigelic

 
 


The Cosmetics IC Take

Our new trend report, Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S., explores how treat culture continues to impact the U.S. beauty sector, which filters through in TikTok users’ love of high glamour and celebrity-inspired looks (#lisablackpink). The report also examines how new consumer archetypes are adopting an art student mentality to experimentation, thinking outside of the box to bring new levels of creativity and invention to the makeup space (#flowermakeup).

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

 

Sources: Cosmetics IC – July 2024 

Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (From June 16, 2024 to July 14, 2024 vs May 19, 2024 to June 16, 2024)

 




Key Skincare Trends on Social Media

Deathtostock – Photography by Shauna Summers

Social media’s role in beauty continues to expand and evolve from a place of inspiration to a source of innovation. New trends, techniques, and semantics cascade from the online universes of TikTok and IG to the offline world, changing the very culture of skincare and makeup. With the power to create new narratives that alter consumer behaviors, social media is more than just a playground – it’s an essential insight tool.

Every month, the Cosmetics IC team works alongside social media data analysts (Spate and Tribe Dynamics) to decipher the latest beauty trends, identify the most inspiring influencers and spotlight the buzzing products that are shifting the dial on beauty.

Here is a snapshot from our latest skincare social analysis, taken from March 2024:

Top 3 Skincare Brands March 2024(1) – Propelled by Younger Generations.

N° 1. (in EMV) Summer Fridays: +140% YoY

Summer Fridays celebrated its 6th birthday in March with the launch of the Jet Lag Overnight Eye Serum, building on the success of its original hero product – the Jet Lag Mask. Every birthday deserves a good party, and the brand hosted its own at The Grove Los Angeles, with a travel-inspired pop-up called “In The Clouds”. Customers could sample the new products and shop limited edition merch in a dreamy, minimalist setting.

N° 2. (in EMV) Glow Recipe: +141% YoY

The Korean-inspired brand is one of Gen Alpha’s favorite skincare brands, boosted by Tiktok (representing 33% of their EMV). It was also boosted by the launch of the Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Hue Drops at the end of February, which was promoted with a number of viral activations, including “The Dewy World of Glow Recipe” pop-up at Times Square on the 22nd of March. Customers received a complimentary engraving on a full-size purchase of Watermelon Glow Hue Drops or Dew Drops.

N° 3. (in EMV) Sol de Janeiro: +114% YoY

Always a much-talked-about brand on TikTok, Sol de Janeiro is adored by Gen Z (and increasingly by Gen Alpha), tapping the algorithm with videos that explore their product’s more playful and sensorial aspects. The new Rio Radiance SPF 50 collection (sunscreen spray, oil and lotion) was launched in March with a video starring celebrity influencer Sofia Richie Grainge.


Top TikTok Skincare Trends March 2024 – Savvy consumers find new paths for skin solutions adapted to their needs and wallets.

Skin Streaming – Simplified Skincare Routines

#skinstreaming (51.3M views)(2)– Influencer to watch: @dermguru

Skin Streaming is a trend focused on simplifying skincare routines by using fewer products that serve multiple purposes, rather than relying on a multitude of single-use products. “Skin Streaming” achieves a +34460% MoM and a +16660% YoY increase.(3)

Matte Sunscreens – Shine-Free Protection

#softmattesunscreen (13.1M views)(2) – Influencer to watch: @paularmzz

Matte sunscreen offers sun protection while avoiding a greasy or shiny finish. Trending products include Bubble’s Solar Mate and Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick. “Matte Sunscreen” achieves a +2533% MoM and a +507% YoY increase.(3)

Turmeric Masks – Homemade Radiance Remedies

#turmericfacemask (42.9M views)(2) – Influencer to watch: @anci.social

In March, Turmeric Masks experienced a surge in popularity as internet users crafted their own glow-inducing topical remedies. Turmeric’s rich antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are believed to bring brightening and radiance to the skin. “Turmeric Mask” achieves a +92% MoM and a +222% YoY increase.(3)

Buzzing products on TikTok – Highlights the ever-growing interest in K-Beauty and porcelain skin.

Cosrx – The 6 Peptide Skin Booster

#skinflooding (265.9M views)(2)

COSRX’s 6 Peptide Skin Booster, introduced in August 2023, is gaining visibility thanks to the growing interest in the skin flooding trend. Skin flooding, akin to moisture sandwiching, hydrates by layering products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods, with Hyaluronic Acid as a key player. “Skin Flooding” has surged by +2292% MoM.(3)

I’m From – Rice Toner

#ricetoner (93M views)(2)

I’m From’s Rice Toner has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, alongside brands like Tirtir, amid a growing interest in K-beauty. Rice toner, infused with rice extracts, aims to hydrate, brighten, and refine the complexion. “Rice Toner” has surged by +2955% YoY.(3)

SKNBODY – Hair Identifier Spray

#sknbodysprayfacialhairshavekit (159M views)(2)

Launched in February 2024, the Sknbody Hair Identifier Spray aims to simplify dermaplaning by coloring hairs white, making them more visible for precise shaving. When influencers began testing the product in March, it caused a big buzz on social media, with some videos clocking up over 15 million views.(2)

Learn more

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

A special thank you to our data partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate.

About Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation is an international trend forecasting and consulting agency founded in Paris in 2007. The agency is dedicated to driving beauty and wellness innovation, helping brands identify new pathways and realize long-term growth through strategic foresight and trend inspiration. The agency regularly delivers in-depth trend reports covering the global beauty markets, decoding the latest inspirations and market data, and deciphering the latest product releases to feed your brand’s innovation process. We convert insights and inspiration into bespoke leverages, tailored to specific goals and ambitions.

In a consultancy capacity, our global team of industry experts, cultural strategists, product developers and beauty chemists work closely with brands to inspire new product directions and build innovative concepts. We have worked alongside the R&D departments of some of the world’s leading makeup and skincare brands to elevate their scientific message and inspire future-proofed innovation.

Contact

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds).

(1) Tribe Dynamics USA – March 2024 – All social media: Instagram, Youtube, Facebook, Twitter, TikTok, Pinterest, Blog – Progression Month over Month (Mar 2024 vs Feb 2024) – EMV: Earn Media Value
(2) Cosmetics IC Manual Count – TikTok – March 2024
(3) Spate – US TikTok searches – Month over Month (Mar 2024 vs Feb 2024) & Year over Year (from Apr 2023 to Mar 2024 vs Apr 2022 to Mar 2023)

HIGHER FUTURES: Decoding the science & tech Beauty revolution

Source: DeathtotheStock: Photography by Nick Fancher

The pandemic propelled the dynamic digitalisation of our lives; we invited new technologies and scientific solutions into our homes (and bodies) as we sought new approaches and answers to rapidly emerging challenges. In the interim years we have seen the propulsion of Artificial Intelligence further expand our expectations and experience of the world, its capabilities presenting enticing opportunities for brands to develop truly amazing new products and services.

As consumers recognise that science and technology hold the keys to the quest for heightened efficacy, performance, and pleasure, investment in science-led beauty brands is exceeding that in nature-led brands by 2.5x.(1) Within this context, Cosmetics IC developed the strategic perspective of Higher Futures—a call for brands to lead with technology, leverage consumer trust in science, and address the demand for STEM-based beauty solutions while solving humanity’s major challenges.

At a special conference for MakeUp in Paris 2024, Cosmetics IC invited attendees to discover the transformative impact of a science-centric approach to beauty. Read on for an extract of our presentation, where we highlighted three strategic territories for investigation: Augmented Science, Amplified Reality and Post-natural Future, representing the opportunities that await those brands open to leading with science.

Augmented Science: Next-level efficiency

Traditional categories are being redefined by heightened expectations for performance and perfection, influenced by the ubiquity of derma procedures and the growing emphasis on well-being. This compels brands to investigate hyper-personalised solutions and at-home experiences, leaning into the latest technologies to biohack the body, boost longevity, and elevate the daily beauty ritual. AI-powered devices, smart materials and precision-personalized formulas will blur the lines between clinical and convenience.  

  • STEM-symbiotic solutions are infiltrating all categories as society awakens to the transformative potential of new technologies. At New York Fashion Week, designer Christian Cowan collaborated with Adobe to produce an electronically activated dress meticulously crafted from hundreds of laser-cut polymer liquid crystals. The dress becomes a “dynamic canvas,” intuitively shifting in color and tone several times a second.

  • At VivaTech 2024, L'Oréal unveiled Cutaneous Technology, a revolutionary bioprinting process that recreates human skin in its full complexity. This breakthrough allows for inclusive and realistic testing across all skin types, paving the way for personalized beauty products and potentially accelerating advancements in dermatological research and burn treatment.

Amplified Reality: Interversal senses

Defying physical boundaries, human-tech symbiosis is creating "intraversal" realities - universal experiences that bridge the digital and physical worlds. This union opens up new possibilities, evoking joy through immersive encounters and the integration of phygital realms. These advancements not only enhance our capacity for interconnectedness but also introduce novel sensations. A new dimension of sensory experience, characterised by tactile hedonism, is emerging, enriching our perception and engagement with the world. This level of intense immersion is being adapted into the retail experience as brands re-imagine physical stores as sensory playgrounds primed for consumer engagement.

  • Across all categories and industries, technology is being used as a conduit to amplify sensation. At Milan Design Week 2024, Samsung Design's "Newfound Equilibrium" exhibition took visitors on a multi-sensory journey through five spaces, each exploring a different aspect of a harmonious future where technology seamlessly blends with humanity. The exhibit showcased the promise and potential of technology in enriching our lives. 

  • At VivaTech 2024, Guerlain pushed the boundaries of fragrance with an olfactory VR experience. Visitors donned a custom headset and entered a world where iconic Guerlain scents were paired with AI-generated landscapes and the perfumer's creative whispers, showcasing the growing interplay of technology and emotion in art and design. 

Post-natural Future: Deep engagement

In the future, a new intelligence will emerge to respond to the need to create sustainable models that prioritize both survival and empathy for our planet and nature. In this context, technology must be used with intention and functionality, focusing on delivering outcomes that benefit people and the environment. This vision of the future will require combining efficiency, aesthetics, and pleasure while keeping sustainability a central mission. Brands should be encouraged by growing consumer support for synthetics - 20% of  U.S. consumers recognize lab-grown, natural-identical ingredients as effective and safe (22%). (2)

  • Forward-thinking solutions are redefining how we source, create, and utilise resources across different sectors. As one of the major polluters of drinking water across the globe, the textile industry is leading the way in eco-friendly innovation. UK brand Normal Phenomena of Life is pioneering “grown-to-order” lifestyle products, combining the expertise of a design research laboratory and a biotechnology company. The first launch includes clothing dyed with bacteria, prints made with algae ink and objects made with bio-concrete designed by microbes.

  •  Equally in the world of beauty, science and technology are allowing for the development of sustainable, vegan solutions that offer an alternative to chemicals. Always leading with innovation, The Unseen Beauty has developed The ABSORPTION collection featuring Algae Black™, the world's first non-toxic and sustainable black pigment for beauty products.  

The COSMETICS IC Take

  • Brands must embrace radical innovation that delivers effectiveness,  sensorial pleasure and sustainability. 

  • Imagine modular textures and fragrances adapting to climate or thermal conditions alongside multi-level experiences that engage touch, smell, and sight. 

  • The fusion of technology with the body is taken to extremes by billionaire biohackers, but despite the sci-fi ramifications, “longevity” has quickly become a mainstream pursuit. This should inspire brands to develop new products, treatments, and rituals that promote hyper-health. 

  • Inspiration from the advancements in sustainable sourcing and production within the fashion and textile industries can provide valuable insights for the beauty sector's journey towards a more responsible future.

Dive Deeper

 

Further insight and inspiration on the rise of science and technology in beauty is available in the agency’s latest trend reports: Beauty Protopia: Skincare Inspiration from the US . Contact the team today for more information!

Contact us

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds)


Sources:

(1). Accenture - The reinvention of beauty - 2023

(2). Mintel- Beauty and Personal Care Trends - 2023

THE RISE OF PRO-AGING: TRANSFORMING THE NARRATIVES AROUND AGE

Source: Haus Labs

The relation to aging is in deep metamorphosis, and the Beauty industry needs to adapt to this evolution. With Gen X and Boomers living longer and looking to age gracefully, and Gen Z undertaking preventive measures like Botox, the “anti-aging” market is shifting toward a well-aging movement. The longevity narrative infuses all categories, from skincare to makeup, transforming the conversation around “anti-aging beauty” (a taboo word since 2017 in Allure USA magazine). 

In its latest Inspiration Report: Beauty Protopia, Cosmetics Inspirations & Creation explores the trend for Pro-Aging Solutions and spotlights the demand for products that empower healthier (not younger) aging. 

The tide is turning on anti-agism. From the success of ABC’s The Golden Bachelor (#TheGoldenBachelor hashtag has been viewed 148.4M times on TikTok – April 2024) to 88-year-old Dame Maggie Smith’s star turn in Loewe’s Spring 24 campaign, there is a groundswell of positive sentiment (and coolness) towards diverse age representations in fashion and media. 

Aging Positively – The new cool mindset 

Cultural momentum has been fuelled by TikTok, where a new wave of age-positive influencers, filters and viral challenges are helping to build a positive discourse around aging. 

The #TurningMyMomInToMe TikTok trend (460.7M views – April 2024) joyfully sees Gen Z daughters dress like their mothers and vice-versa, while the Age Progression Filter shows users smiling as their face changes over 50 years. On TikTok, makeup for #matureskin (576.7M views - April 2024) is also gaining momentum, propelled by a new generation of "maturetokkers", such as @collen_heidemann (383.6K followers – April 2024) who started her influencer journey at age 69. 

These gestures are reinforcing #agepositivity (27.8M views on TikTok – April 2024) at a time when the world must learn to adjust to the needs of an aging population. By 2050, there will be 2.1 billion people aged 60 and over, and consumers are taking control now to ensure live better for longer. Most Americans (76% according to Ipsos - American affluents spending $200B on wellness annually - July 19, 2023) actively do things to maintain or improve their health, with 92% of consumers believing the best approach to healthy aging focuses on inside-out well-being. 

This mindset shift creates an opportunity for brands to inspire consumers with solutions that support and enhance healthy aging, through every life stage. 

Mature Skin Makeup 

With a sharp rise in searches for mature makeup (+30.3% on Google in the USA - Spate Tool - US Google Search - from Apr 2023 to Mar 2024 vs. Apr 2022 to Mar 2023), brands are stepping up to cater to this demographic. Offering "skinified" formulas, they enhance luminosity and combat signs of aging with youth-boosting ingredients. 

The age-positive beauty brand Flyte.70 targets specifically the mature skin market with age-appropriate formulations that address specific issues of mature skin. The brand opened a flagship store in October 2023 in Massachusetts, with not only their brand but also 14 other brands. 

At the same time, we witness a growing number of beauty brands showcasing their products' efficacy on mature skin, not only meeting consumer needs but also fostering inclusivity and authenticity. This strategic move not only boosts brand image but also sets new standards for beauty. 

Here are some interesting examples from our inspiration basket from our last Makeup-Up report. The Haus Labs Triclone Skin Tech Hydrating + Depuffing Concealer (September 2023) is demonstrated on both young and mature models. It is powered with 20+ skincare ingredients including the brand’s patent-pending Fermented Arnica. Flexible pigments allow the concealer to adhere and adapt to the skin, making it comfortable for all skin ages. 

Lifting and brightening results have become desired features of the healthy aging aesthetic, and will become important elements for brands to consider in their innovation. Like, Physician Formula Eye Booster Eye Lifter (October 2023) - a 2-in-1 eyeshadow that delivers an instant lift thanks to its Tri-Peptide blend. 

Interest in Peptide-packed products that boost Collagen and Elastin while beautifying will continue to gain traction and become key to the “pro-aging” makeup kit. Reeson’s Lid Elixir (July 2023 - new brand) is a Peptide-rich tinted lifting serum developed for the eyelids. The brand positions itself as age-inclusive, its tagline, "Glow isn't just for 20-somethings”, actively encourages older consumers to embrace their mature skin. 

Learn more

For more information on The Rise of Pro-Aging, and for details on how to obtain a copy of Beauty Protopia: Makeup or Skincare Inspiration from the US, find the Cosmetics IC team at the MakeUp in Paris Trends Space - Booth T4, May 29th & 30th 2024. 

IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL 2024: OPTIMAL FUTURE - THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

Source: Deathtothestock - Photo by Daniel Faro

Following three days of intense innovation-hunting at the recent in-Cosmetics Global 2024 (April 16 to 18, Paris),  our experts have identified 4 key trends that will transform the world of cosmetic ingredients.

Our full coverage of the show will be published in the upcoming report, Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024. Below is a taster trend from the team’s comprehensive analysis - read on to discover ingredients at the cutting edge of science.

OPTIMAL FUTURE: THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

While consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of science and new technologies, suppliers are responding by developing ingredients that allow brands to create even more technically elevated products.

Growing trust in the science community (57% of respondents rate scientists as trustworthy) should spur brands to invest in forward-thinking innovations. Accenture reports that brands championing science-led claims secure 2.5 times more venture capital funding compared to their counterparts focused solely on natural and sustainable claims. This is fertile ground for beauty brands, who have an opportunity to leverage science-backed formulations and innovations as a cornerstone of trust and credibility in their offerings.

1. BIOMIMETIC BOOSTERS

The exosome boom

As exosomes gain interest in cosmetics for their application in anti-aging solutions (US Google searches for Exosome Therapy have increased +82.5% YoY*), there has been a significant increase in exosome-related ingredient innovation. The surge in exosome-based formulas will help propel the exosome market size to $3.2B in 2032, growing at a CAGR of 29.9% from 2023. 

This new exosome ingredient is derived from antioxidant-rich Camellia Callus. The exosome has a high-absorption function, due to being 184-462 times smaller than skin pore size and key claims include anti-inflammatory (18.86% reduction in Nitric Oxide) and whitening effects (13.00% reduction in extracellular melanin production).

Exolab has harnessed the active power of organic exosomes derived from untreated Camellia Sinensis, rich in polyphenols and catechins. Exo-Elixir Camellia Sinensis encapsulates key active ingredients like EGCG and vegetable Melatonin for neurocosmetic effects. Other innovations include exosomes derived from Alpine Rose for photo-aging, Liquorice for elasticizing, and fresh fruits for skin repair. 

Source: Exolab - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

Created from the synergy of three exosomes found in lactobacilli, these probiotic ingredients claim to have superior anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects that help maintain healthy skin. The bacteria-derived exosomes calm irritation, prevent pigmentation and strengthen the barrier.

Bio-mirrors 

New innovations promise next-level efficacy, mimicking biological functions to improve skin penetration and active assimilation.

Drawing on a vast data set that integrates various technology platforms, in silico and biomimetic Peptide design, and marine biology research, LipoTrue™ has developed Frag-Brillin remastered™, a biomimetic fragment of human Fibrillin-1 grown in plants. It enhances skin elasticity by triggering TGFβ repair response, bolstering cellasticity, and reducing wrinkle-inducing microfibril degradation, thus revitalizing skin's structural integrity and appearance.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

Corneopeptyl™ represents an innovative biomimetic Peptide, synthesized through green chemistry. It mirrors the activity of the LCE6A Protein, fortifying the corneocyte envelope to enhance skin barrier function and tackle premature aging by diminishing wrinkles and enhancing skin texture, firmness, and moisture levels.

Opal Alga harnesses dynamic light-responsive technology, inspired by the behavior of Cystoseira Tamariscifolia, to revitalize fatigued skin impacted by modern stressors. It harmonizes the skin’s microenvironment and restores its natural circadian rhythm for renewed vitality. Inspired by algae's adaptive behavior to light cycles, Odycea aims to optimize photosynthesis efficiency, illustrating their commitment to biomimicry in skincare innovation.



2. FAST-TRACKED FUNCTIONALITY 

Bio-inspired delivery systems

Several suppliers were inspired by nature to create new delivery systems that improve active access and allow for deeper penetration.

Active Concepts is at the forefront of personal care innovation with core technology platforms including BioFermentation, Complex Actives, Extracts, Proteins, Delivery Systems, and Functional Materials. Their groundbreaking BioAuthentic Exosomes line introduces exosome-inspired delivery systems tailored for specific skincare benefits, such as AC ExoVitalize, which enhances cellular processes like oxidative phosphorylation and glycolysis, promoting a rejuvenated and lifted appearance at the cellular level.

Bicobiome® targets oily scalps prone to dandruff, rebalancing the microbiome, reducing sebum formation, restoring scalp barrier function, and eliminating dandruff scales. Inspired by skin biology, Bicosome® mimics the skin's transportation system, the lamellar bodies. Upon application, Bicosomes® fuse with the skin surface, allowing smart disks to selectively penetrate targeted skin layers and deliver actives. Subsequently, Bicosome®-ordered lipid structures integrate into the skin matrix, reinforcing the barrier function without compromising skin health.

Plant-based delivery systems

Plant-inspired delivery systems leverage natural compounds and mechanisms to enhance the efficacy and bioavailability of active ingredients.

The biotechnology firm based in Strasbourg, France, specializes in engineering plants to produce valuable Polypeptides for the cosmetic industry. Peauvita™, blends plant biotechnology with growth factors, incorporating Oleosomes - naturally occurring carriers found in all plant seeds - to ensure advanced skin delivery and controlled release, representing a transformative approach to skincare.


3. SMART BEAUTY

AI-optimized ingredients

With continued advancements in AI capabilities, suppliers are now using this technology to improve and optimize their ingredients and help find new formulation solutions.

LipoTrueSP[AI]3 (Spain)

SP[AI]3™ is a smart Peptide obtained in silico through AI among thousands of candidates, with optimal binding and specificity. It precisely targets key acne influencers to modulate sebum synthesis, reduce pore size and obstruction, and decrease inflammation.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

AI-assisted development

Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ employs AI assistance to accurately select fragments rich in active human collagen sites, ensuring a final sequence that is completely homologous with human collagen. Its environmentally friendly production process offers advantages in safety and purity. Notably, Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ possesses unique active sites capable of binding to 11 integrins, effectively activating cell signaling pathways and providing superior soothing and repairing abilities.

Actigum™ Care, with its 94.5% natural composition and innovative blend of starch and sclerotium gum, presents a sustainable alternative to traditional petro-based polymers. It provides superior functionality and sensorial enhancement through AI-based development.



The Cosmetics IC Take

New scientific developments offer outstanding benefits for beauty brands, as suppliers leverage the latest biomimetic technology to create potent, sustainable ingredients that double-down on efficacy. The integration of AI will continue at pace, promising next-level advancements and accelerated performance, hyper-attuned to individual specificities. 

Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024 will be available soon.

Contact the team for more details.

 

(*Source: Spate NY - US Search - from April 2023 to March 2024 vs. April 2022 to March 2023)

HOT SKINCARE TRENDS ON TIKTOK: BUZZING BRANDS AND LATEST TRENDS - MARCH 2024

Sources: @paularmzz: Bubble - Solar Matte / @dermarkologist: COSRX - The 6 Peptide Skin Booster / @theshealyfam: Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

Derma-influences continue to dominate the SkinTok conversation, with trending products linked to routines that promise to optimize skin health, from #skinflooding to #skinstreaming. Working with data analysis supplied by our partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate, the Cosmetics IC team has analyzed the latest skincare trends and products going viral on TikTok. Read on for our cut of the most interesting innovations and inspirations to emerge during early spring, 2024.

TOP TRENDS

1 - Skin Streaming

Fewer products, serving multiple purposes: this is the pillar of the #skinstreaming trend which involves adopting a routine that gives your skin exactly what it needs, at the right time, without overwhelming it with products. This considered approach ticks the boxes on functionality, cost-saving, skin sensitivity and sustainability, meeting the prevalent needs of young consumers. 

#Skinstreaming - 51.3M views/ +34460% MoM/ +16660% YoY

2 - Skin Microbiome

Ongoing conversations around skin health propels interest in the microbiome. Both customers and brands acknowledge the importance of maintaining a healthy biome as part of a holistic beauty routine, which drives interest in new products and routines adapted to reinforce the skin barrier. This conversation is fuelled by TikTok derma-influencers who are effectively communicating the importance of healthy bacteria in enhancing skin appearance.

#Skinmicrobiome - 36.3M views/ +9077% MoM/ +454% YoY

3 - Matte Sunscreen

As the warmer months approach in the West, the conversation turns to suncare. Sophisticated new formulations address the demand for a non-greasy, shine-free finish, as consumers embrace sun protection as part of their daily routine. K-beauty favorite, Beauty of Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick is gaining traction thanks to its smooth, non-sticky finish, developed with cosmetic chemist and influencer, @glowbyramon. 

#Softmattesunscreen - 13.1M views/ +2533% MoM / +507% YoY 

BUZZING BRANDS

1 - COSRX 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 

This multi-peptide skin booster was originally launched in August 2023 but is gaining traction due to its alignment with the #skinflooding (265.9M views) trend. Formulated with 6 different Peptides, it targets fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, all while smoothing and firming the skin. The product has become a favorite among fans of the skinflooding technique - where products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods are layered to create a moisture sandwich. 

Skin Flooding - +2292% YoY

2 - I’m From - Rice Toner

The Rice Toner from I’m From has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, which is seen as a key step to achieving #GlassSkin. Infused with skin-soothing rice extracts, the toner exfoliates, hydrates, brightens and refines the complexion, while forming a protective barrier to prevent water loss and improve radiance. 

#ricetoner - 93M views/ +2955% YoY

3 - Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

This novel product demonstrates the growing appetite for new innovations linked to cosmetic treatments. The spray simplifies dermaplaning by coloring the hairs on the face white, making them more visible for shaving. The product’s high visual appeal and strong before/after potential helped it create a buzz on the platform when influencers began testing the product in March. 

#sknbodysprayfcialhairshavekit - 159M views

The Cosmetics IC Take

We will be publishing a deep dive into the latest viral TikTok trends and weak signals in our upcoming Social Book 2024, dedicated to skincare and wellness. Sign up to our newsletter to be the first to hear when our new report drops. 

(Sources: Cosmetics IC - March 2024 / Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (March 2024 vs February 2024) & YoY (April 2023 to March 2024 vs from April 2022 to March 2023)

TREND WATCH: NEW YORK FASHION WEEK FW24/25

Source: Bevza NYFW FW 24/25

New York Fashion Week saw designers embracing a return to classic elements, with nods to traditional craftsmanship, twisted by unconventional accents and innovation. From Protection Mode to Soft Envelop, discover Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s edit of 5 key trends to watch:

#1 Soft Envelop

Source: Jason Wu NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Proenza Schouler NYFW FW 24/25

This season, luxurious warmth and comfort were a key part of the narrative, where a trend for soft, enveloping fabrics and silhouettes emerged, blurring the line between clothing and blankets. Models were draped in voluminous, billowing fabrics exuding an effortless sense of comfort and style on the runway. Garments cocooned the wearer in luxurious warmth and softness, as seen in Jason Wu's blanket coats and enveloping silhouettes, Tibi's minimal approach featuring free-flowing luxurious wool, and Proenza Schouler's safety-pinned scarf-sweaters.

#2 Mob Boss

Source: Puppets and Puppets NYFW FW 24/25

Source: LaQuan Smith NYFW FW 24/25

Why settle for Mob Wife when you can be Mob Boss? Featuring statement coats, faux fur, and dramatic collars, this trend tells the story of a powerful woman exuding confidence and sophistication, redefining power dressing for the modern femme fatale. Linked to the #mobwife trend on social media (amassing 16.9M views on TikTok), the bold narrative was embraced by designers like Prabal Gurung with big coats and intense eye makeup, LaQuan Smith with latex-like silk skirts and oversized faux fur, and Puppets and Puppets with fuzzy shawls hiding sheer dresses.

#3 Maximalist Chaos

Source: Dauphinette NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Libertine NYFW FW 24/25

Celebrating abundance and inviting fearless experimentation, Maximalist Chaos is a playful call to break free from conventions and express creativity with abandon, standing at the antipode of quiet luxury. There was an overload of print and pattern at Libertine and Dauphinette while at Wiederhoeft, models donned furry and shiny headpieces, extravagant sunglasses and overstacked belts. The rise of eclectic and exaggerated styling redefined the runway with a daring spirit of excess.

#4 Protection Mode

Source: Tory Burch NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Thom Browne NYFW FW 24/25

With the rise of a "preventive" mindset led by more educated consumers, we are seeing the emergence of a new utilitarian beauty that prioritizes functional protection in our everyday lives. Designers at the forefront of fashion experimentation have embraced a laboratory-inspired aesthetic, working with materials reminiscent of vinyl or plastic to convey hygiene, safety and security. This trend for utilitarianism pushes the boundaries of fashion and gives rise to confronting aesthetics - from Helmut Lang's secure wrapping techniques to Tory Burch's vinyl-like trench coats and Thom Browne's protective overshoe-style footwear.

#5 Grey Pride

Source: Batsheva NYFW FW 24/25

Source: Christian Cowan NYFW FW 24/25

Recent trend reports from Cosmetics IC have highlighted the rising impact of the "Aging Well" movement, a narrative that has cascaded onto the catwalks, where older models exude timeless elegance and sophistication. This season represented a significant shift, defying ageist standards and embracing beauty diversity, with models from brands like Batsheva, Bevza, and Christian Cowan showcasing that style is ageless, encouraging a celebration of beauty across all stages of life. 

 

The Cosmetics IC Take

This season, designers embraced boldness and inclusivity, celebrating individuality while merging fashion and function. From empowering styles to embracing age diversity, each trend reflects a dynamic shift toward self-expression and innovation. This also opens up new territories in the beauty landscape, paving the way for innovation and new narratives.

 

Learn more

Our latest reports: Inspiration Book: NYFW Fall/Winter 24/25, and What’s Up #20 - Inspiration from the U.S., explore the latest trends in beauty, contextualized with emerging consumer behaviors, cutting-edge innovations and cultural influences.

Discover the trends worth leaning into and the new territories to explore, by ordering your copy today.

Beauty Soundbites: Higher Futures, MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024

For MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024, Cosmetics IC hosted a series of four Beauty Talks to highlight the agency’s predictions for the year ahead. We will be highlighting the key talking points from some of our sessions and sharing a snapshot of the interviews that took place with a panel of top industry players, here on the Cosmetic Seeds blog. A full summary of all four talks, including in-depth interviews, key products and takeaways, is available now.

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation - Leila Rochet / Capsum - Sébastien Bardon / Haus Labs by Lady Gaga - Gloria Ryu

The Beauty Talk: Higher Futures - The transformative impact of a science-centric approach to beauty

Exploring the axis of artistry and science, performance and sensation, Higher Futures represents the agency’s analysis of the transformative power of a science-centric approach to beauty. The arrival of new technologies presents brands with bold opportunities to innovate and meet the rising expectations for exceptional solutions and elevated experiences. 

“There is a growing demand for very emotionally compelling and liberating physical experiences. Consumers are looking for groundbreaking experiences, groundbreaking innovation, extraordinary performance levels. It is beyond what they were looking for in the past, especially in the performance arena, but also in sensoriality.”  Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, Cosmetics IC

This desire for elevated experiences has been building since COVID, and in today’s polycrisis era, it has become an even more essential facet of the beauty routine. Consumers’ need for enhanced performance inspired a refocus of Lady Gaga’s Haus Labs in 2020, as the brand switched to a science-led innovation strategy. Critically, Haus Lab’s shift also introduced a new level of sensoriality into the beauty experience. This is a key facet of the work of Capsum - a contract manufacturer that specializes in microfluidic encapsulation technology, which makes it possible to assemble ingredients in a radically new way, controlling stability and heightening the sensory effect.  Joining Leila to discuss how a science-centric approach is transforming the world of beauty was Sebastien Bardon, CEO and co-founder of Capsum and Gloria Ryu, Chief Product Officer at Haus Labs By Lady Gaga.

Read on for a snapshot of Leila’s wide-ranging interview with Sebastien and Gloria from February 2024:

Leïla Rochet: Gloria, can you tell us about the decision to relaunch Haus Labs with a scientific approach?

Gloria Ryu: Our patented Fermented Arnica was born while experimenting with one of our R&D partners. Sarah Tanno, who is our Global Artistry Director, Lady Gaga, and the rest of the team were in the lab brainstorming on what we could do from a material perspective, and how to build products from the inside out - very much starting from the raw material phase. With our foundation, it's been marketed that we spent 10,000 hours in the lab, developing that product, an insane number of hours! It's very interesting because our pillars are artistry, science, and inclusivity and for us, it's about the intersection of those three. 

Leïla: Sébastien, you introduced microfluidic technology to the Beauty industry. Can you explain what that is?

Sébastien Bardon: When you develop custom products you use between 10 and 50 ingredients, and as you do in your kitchen, you mix them all together, right? But what we do is that we separate them into different phases, which can be up to five different phases, and then we produce the product one drop at a time. So we're making millimeter-sized drops of oil, containing the perfume and actives, that are going to be dropped into the hydrophilic formula. 

The reason we decided to apply microfluidics to Beauty is because you can bring multiple benefits. I think the simplest benefit is the visual aspect - we create products that are beautiful, and that helps brands differentiate one from the other. 

Leïla: Gloria, how do you see the skinification shift in relation to Haus Labs?

Gloria: I love the fact that our consumers and our community are so much more savvy, and really push brands to elevate from a higher standard of quality, execution, and performance. So it challenges us to push our partners to figure out that delicate balance between artistry, and performance.

Leïla: And what does skinification mean to Capsum?

Sébastien: It is obviously about adding active ingredients to your makeup, but it's also about bringing a new skin feel to makeup. We have achieved this with some brands, making makeup products that have a really nice skin feel, and freshness. They also speak for themselves because they have encapsulated pigments, and as a consumer, you understand very clearly this product is going to give you a makeup effect.

Leïla: Gloria, as head of PD, can you tell us a little more about the challenges in creating makeup that is both artistic and skincare-driven?

Gloria: Lady Gaga is an incredible futurist and visionary and her team has such a high standard of excellence in terms of performance. It’s got to withstand her dancing and performing two hours on stage, and when she takes it off her skin shouldn’t be red or irritated. It's a very fluid approach, it's the art and science synergy.

The Cosmetics IC Take

Haus Labs and Capsum demonstrate how science and technology can be applied beyond performance to elevate the artistry and sensoriality of a product, placing innovation at the heart of product storytelling. A science-centric approach is now an essential strategy for brands to meet consumers’ ever-evolving expectations for sustainability, performance and sensoriality.

Contact the team today for a full summary and transcript of our session with Gloria and Sebastian, and all of the Beauty Talks presented exclusively at MakeUp in Los Angeles, available as one comprehensive report. Our 2024 trend white book, The Age of Thrill, is also available now.

MEET THE FOUNDER - Talking Clean Beauty with Annie Jackson, CEO and Co-Founder of Credo

Annie Jackson is one of the most influential female leaders in the US, she has been a key player in the beauty space since her early career with Estee Lauder before becoming part of the team that launched Sephora USA. Just over a decade ago, Annie co-founded the clean beauty retailer Credo, which is now firmly established as one of America’s top sustainable beauty champions. 

“Annie Jackson is one of the leading voices in the clean beauty and sustainability movement. As co-founder and now CEO of Credo, Annie is uniquely positioned to offer insight into the evolution of the clean beauty space and share her thoughts on how the industry must adapt to ensure a better tomorrow. With value being rapidly redefined by consumers who are demanding greater environmental responsibility, brands are being driven to consider the future implications of products. Credo is a pro-active steward of progress, working alongside brands to evolve sustainability standards that go far beyond current consumer expectations.” Leila Rochet – Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

At the recent MakeUp in Los Angeles event, Annie joined our Chief Innovation Officer, Leila Rochet, to discuss one of the agency’s key trends for 2024 - Symbiotic Progress: Adapting for a better future.

Read on for an exclusive extract of Leila and Annie’s Beauty Talk, where Annie shares her vision for the future of clean beauty and reveals the shifting priorities of Credo consumers.


Leila Rochet: How did your journey into Beauty unfold, leading to your role today as CEO of Credo? 

Annie Jackson: We started on the concept for Credo back in 2013 and opened our first store in 2015. We just opened our 16th location. We are a physical retail concept. While digital is very important to any business today, meeting the customers where they are in neighborhoods, where people are living a healthy lifestyle, exercising, and investing in their health, is where you will find a Credo. We want people to be able to explore and find new brands, try the products, and work with our estheticians and makeup artists. And that's our continued focus. 

Back in 2013 we really wanted to see if you could make a brand that was as efficacious as a conventional beauty brand in formula and packaging but with primarily plant ingredients in more sustainable options. We took the cue from the organic food movement and realized that people were investing in healthier options and educating themselves on what products they wanted to buy.  So we were curious, could we find enough brands to fill this store? We opened our first store in San Francisco, going head to head-with conventional beauty brands. We started with about 60 brands and we have 105 today. About a quarter of those brands we started with are still with us a decade later. 

Leila: There must have been a lot of challenges when you started. How do they compare to the challenges you face today? 

Annie:  Well, I think I can safely say for any entrepreneur or any founder out there, it's never a straight line. We had the COVID crisis in the middle of trying to grow a physical retail business, which is extremely capital-intensive.  Also, when we started we had this ecosystem of brands which were really celebrating finding a retail partner and wanted to grow alongside us.  The customer base has now grown so much that these brands are scaling and growing into bigger retailers, which is amazing. The fact that retailers with a larger footprint than Credo are committed to putting safer products on their shelves is an amazing thing. But from a business standpoint, it becomes quite challenging because that hurts our market share. It's a tricky one.

Yet, it hasn't made us any less passionate about what we do. We are striving to make a positive impact in the beauty industry and so we're often shoulder to shoulder with our competitors - Sephora, Ulta, Detox Market, and others. But you know, we're all in this together. And I think the more we can band together to make better choices for human health, it's a good thing.

Leila: How do you make sure that the products that you sell in your retailers are the safest ones? 

Annie: Before, we were manually checking products against our standard, but today we use a technology platform called Novi. We've also invested in a rock star team of impact specialists who come from environmental, toxicology, and science backgrounds, to help guide us. Today,  what we're doing as an organization is questioning if there could be a better way. For us, the secret sauce is finding brands that are not just meeting our standards, they're exceeding them, or they have a path to exceed. What makes me so proud of the brand community that we have is that these people have rolled up their sleeves and done the hard work - they're paying more money, and they're taking more time to bring products to market. And they're challenging the contract manufacturing community to look at other ingredients and explore other options. 

Leila: How do you help your consumers navigate all these changes and what are you seeing as their priority? 

Annie: From the outset, our customers have always been concerned about packaging. In the early days, while we vetted brands against a restricted substance list,  consumers were always saying, “I hate all this plastic!”. Customers are absolutely invested in being part of the solution. We co-founded the packaging collection program Pact Collective along with other stakeholders, but we also have the conversation on the selling floor about what is recyclable. The next thing that's top of mind for us is looking at ingredients that have no data and examining the assumption that they're safe or good for you. So we're starting to dig into that with Chem Forward, who are a nonprofit partner. It may mean that some products at Credo go away, but, you know, that's why we're here and that's the work that we're doing today.

Leila: According to Nielsen IQ - 61% of US consumers associate sustainability with benefiting the planet, while just 26% associate it with societal contributions. Credo has been active on matters like ethical sourcing of Mica, do you see ethical transparency as the next step for the industry?

Annie: Yes, I do. I think whether people are buying beauty products, or beer, or cars, they are much more invested in finding out information before they choose a product. And so it could be a source of ingredients, it could be packaging, it could be what a founder says on social media… it could be all of those pieces together. Gen Z has the highest bar of any customer out there, and they expect you to have all these things in place. They want the product to be all those things, with an entry-level price point, and a cool look and feel. They want it all. And that generation is growing up, they've got more spending power, and those are the brands that they're looking for. So I think it's a super exciting time. 

Leila: Education is one of Credo's core pillars - what tools and techniques do you use to educate consumers?

Annie: We have an education team and we invest most of our time in terms of associated selling preparation on training. Our dream is to have our brands be as well known on the selling floor as the brand founders themselves know them. We want our sales associates to know our brands intimately, so we spend most of our time on education, in terms of brand product knowledge, but also on what our standards are. I would say probably the most engaged customer that we have at Credo is someone who's expecting a child. These people are typically really invested in the choices they're making. 

Leila: In a previous interview in Vogue Business, you talked about moving “beyond clean beauty”, can you explain what you mean by this? 

Annie: It's really about moving beyond the restricted substance list, and understanding that the customer has embraced a much more holistic view of what clean or green beauty means to them. It involves packaging, people, ethics… just real transparency. I can say from experience that Beauty is a pretty opaque industry, and it’s not inherently forthcoming about what's in products, and who the people are that these brands are working with. By no means does Credo have everything figured out perfectly, but we're digging into things that should be very transparent to the customer. That's what people expect today. 

When I was talking about going beyond clean, it is because people tend to hear “clean beauty”, and they just think of ingredients, and that's it. But we're embarking on meeting our first sustainable packaging milestone this year, where our brand partners needed to reach 50% or greater PCR content. We put that out in the universe in 2020 and that's where we've been spending most of our time. From an ingredients standpoint, it's much more cut and dry, like, do you have these ingredients, or don't you? But on the packaging front, it's really been us linking arms with our brand partners and saying, we got to do better. We have to at the end of the day. The reality is we're in an industry where we sell products, and so if you're going to do that then let's invest in things that are just better for people and the planet.


KEY TAKEAWAYS:

  • Consumers want increasingly healthier options that align with their healthy lifestyles and are educating themselves before making purchase decisions.

  • Brands must be prepared to pay more and work harder to achieve outstanding results and push the culture of clean beauty forward. Dig deeper, and engage with technology platforms to help validate ingredients and materials.

  • Packaging remains a key sticking point for the beauty industry and is a top concern for sustainably-motivated consumers. 

  • Young consumers have a much wider definition of clean beauty that encompasses ingredient safety, packaging, ethical sourcing, and social purpose.

  • Retailers should center education in staff training and services to meet the consumer’s level of knowledge and enhance the product discovery experience on the shop floor.


To discover more about our key territory for 2024, Symbiotic Progress: Adapting for a better future, contact the Cosmetics IC team today for your copy of our 2024 White Book: The Age of Thrill. Many thanks to the wonderful Annie Jackson, and all of our brilliant guest speakers at MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024!

White Book 2024: The Age of Thrill

Death to Stock - Photo by Fanette Guilloud

As technology and science become integral facets of our always-evolving lifestyles, a growing demand emerges for elevated and indulgent experiences.  Our latest White Book explores The Age of Thrill, an era energized by radical innovations that will deliver extraordinary sensations and take performance levels to extreme new heights.

In an era marked by uncertainties and polycrisis, there is a growing demand for emotionally compelling and exhilarating physical experiences, especially with our ever-evolving lifestyles. Consumers are now invigorated by groundbreaking innovations that offer extra-ordinary sensations while elevating performance to unprecedented levels.” Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

The agency has identified the following five trends for 2024 and beyond, which represent the need for brands to meet heightened expectations around performance, creativity, and sustainability. 

1/ HIGHER FUTURE: The transformative impact of science-centric approaches 

In the future, all experiences will be hybrid, and product innovation will be committed to maximizing performance. New technologies and scientific discoveries, forefronted by Artificial Intelligence, will transform consumers' expectations, taking results-focused beauty to even higher levels. 

  • AI will revolutionize retail experiences and services. In the summer of 2023, Ulta Beauty partnered with Haut AI to bring personalized skincare diagnostics to the in-store experience. Haut AI has also developed SkinGPT - a skincare platform that uses generative AI to visually simulate the effects of products over time, based on a combination of a personalized quiz, uploaded images, and clinical data.

  • AI-powered bots will become a familiar feature outside of the professional salon space, meeting the demand for faster and budget-friendly options. Offering quick and affordable nail polish applications ($10) the mani-bot Clockwork is growing its presence across the US with a strategic focus on residential complexes and airports.

  • In beauty, a mindset rooted in science and focused on solutions is making waves and is being embraced by consumers driven by tangible outcomes. Amorepacific’s latest innovation, the Lipcure Beam (CES Innovation Award 2024 – Korea) employs precision sensor and diagnostic technology to deliver next-level care.  The device’s cap diagnoses the moisture levels and condition of the lips, while a brush-like applicator emits customized visible light to aid in lip care.

2/ TRANSIENT UTOPIA: Revisiting the codes of lifestyle

Beauty adapts to always-on-the-move lifestyles, as the thirst for leisure and the rising nomad economy drive innovation. The travel surge calls for refreshed routines and simpler, smarter formats that reimagine the practical nature of makeup. 

  • At PFW SS24, (September 2023 - France) Miu Miu presented a collection inspired by the future omni-traveler. Workwear was mixed with beachwear, sportswear was paired with eveningwear, as the brand played with the concept of “prototypical fashion”, reflecting the growing eclecticism of people’s daily lives. 

  • Climatic changes will continue to impact choices and behaviors, calling for new cooling sensations and soothing textures. Like those offered by the After Sun Gel from cult suncare brand Vacation (April 2023), which is primed to cool and soothe the skin after sun exposure.

  • Demand for intelligent SPF hybrids will rise as daily defense becomes central to the preparation for a better future. Combining a cooling sensation with SPF 50+, the TIRTIR Off The Sun Air Mousse SPF 50+ (April 2023 - Korea) features 2% Zero-Cooling Complex which is proven to reduce skin temperature by -4.8 degrees Celsius.

3/EXTRA-VAGANCE: Bringing the extraordinary into the everyday

Consumers are turning to lavish indulgences and grandiose gestures as a riposte to the daily grind of the recession. A new cohort of thrill-seekers are maxing out on experiences and eschewing convention to party through the permacrisis, exemplified by the monumental economic success of Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour.

  • Every aspect of Beyonce’s wardrobe and makeup for her Renaissance tour was analyzed and dissected on social media (#renaissancetour has garnered 3.9B views on TikTok), triggering a flurry of copycat looks and giving wings to the concept of #concertmakeup.

  • Celebratory looks are rising, and consumers are looking to their favorite idols for inspiration on how to introduce lavish gestures into their every day. In Korea, crystal nose-bridge embellishments have become a new way to wear face gems, thanks to fans spotting them on K-pop idols Jennie and Rosé from Blackpink during their Coachella performance. The look went viral on social media, with fans rushing to recreate the distinctive look.

  • Unseen Beauty (UK) is one brand that is driven to deliver extraordinary experiences, bringing unexpectedly luxe finishes to makeup. The  SPECTRA Eye Colour contains glass microspheres, half-coated with aluminum to transform the product into a bright, reflective silver under a phone camera's flash. Making it the ideal accompaniment to a night out.

4/ SYMBIOTIC EDEN: Adapting for a better future

Value is being rapidly redefined by consumers who are demanding greater environmental responsibility, driving brands to consider the future implications of products. As the climate crisis continues to unfold, innovation will come to the foreground of beauty as consumers look for solutions to increasingly prominent issues caused by environmental deterioration. 

  • Waste solutions will continue to rise, and will be encircled into new retail concepts. Greez (February 2023 - France) is a resale platform for unsold cosmetics, while This is Beauty (June 2023 – US) is an online retailer that works with global brands to keep products with damaged packaging away from landfill.

  • The acceleration of vertical farming (employed to great success by Ulé and Caudalie), opens up new territories of tech-driven sustainable sourcing. German brand Gezeiten worked with marine biologists and biotechnologists to study over a hundred compounds to develop Earth Marine CellTech Complex® - a combination of patented marine extracts and a mineral-rich submarine water concentrate. The complex is at the core of its new Face Cream (April 2023), which is packed with active biotech ingredients.

  • Plastic-free solutions will continue to rise with packaging companies like Verity (US) proposing metal as a solution for beauty, or Notpla (UK) which is exploring the potential of regenerative packaging(UK).

5/ EXPANDED CARE: Emotional-bonding beauty

As stress levels continue to rise in this period of permacrisis (61% of Americans say their stress is at an all-time high, while 89% of Chinese adults are actively seeking ways to reduce stress), emotional-bonding becomes essential in daily behavior.

  • In beauty, this manifests in the rise of comfort-boosting textures and new psychodermatalogical narratives, which are propelled by TikTok. The issue of skin sensitivity and barrier protection presents a new opportunity for brands to innovate from the perspective of emotional care.  The success of Rare Beauty (expected to exceed $300 million in sales in 2023 according to Fast Company), opens the path to more emotion-infused beauty products. 

  • Circadian beauty will continue to flourish as consumers look to align their well-being goals with their skincare ambitions. Complimentary skincare and supplement brand You’re Looking Well (UK)  has developed the Night Pill & Night Cream (August 2023) to help users optimize their sleep. Infused with ingredients to prepare the body for rest and help the skin recover, the two products work in tandem with the skin’s circadian rhythm to deliver a well-rested glow and a clear mind.

  • Clariant has been exploring the potential of neurocosmetics primed to tackle the effects of lack of sunlight exposure on the mood, and the skin.  In a presentation titled, "An Innovative Light-biomimetic Solution Stimulating Feel-good Hormones and Cognitive Relaxation to Tackle Lack of Sunlight Exposure and Dull Skin" Mathilde Frechet of Clariant outlined how the butterfly plants rich tormentic acid content enhances cognitive relaxation and skin complexion by amplifying the vitamin D pathway and hormonal production. 

The Cosmetics IC Take

This culture of thrill-seeking will impact our vision of beauty, awakening a more pluriversal mindset and establishing next-level expectations, propelling beauty in a Protopian trajectory.

For the full version of our White Book, or for more information on any of our innovation and forecasting services, drop us a line today.

Ingredient Inspiration: Cosmet’Agora 2024

Arthur Mazi via Unsplash

The 16th edition of Cosmet’agora was held in Paris on 16 - 17 January 2024, showcasing the latest ingredient and formulation innovations. Fresh from the event, our Scientific & Product Expert, Enora Le Roux, deciphers the emerging ingredient trends that will impact tomorrow’s beauty. Below, discover 3 fields of innovation to inspire your future product creation.

This year saw the influx of technology and science as the answer to tomorrow’s primary concerns around issues of sustainability, innocuity, and wellness.”  Scientific & Product Expert at Cosmetics IC, Enora Le Roux. 


1. Biotech - When nature meets new extraction technologies

Google search data reveals there is still high demand for biotech ingredients (+7.5% YoY, with a forecast increase of +24.3% over the next 12 months, according to Spate), as consumers lean into the possibilities of tech-enhanced nature to support their high-performance expectations. 

Provital – CircanblueTM (July 2023)

As the conversation around cyclical biorhythms gains traction in the wellness space (#circadianrhythm – 116.6M views on TikTok, January 2024) Provital demonstrates how overexposure to digital technology disrupts the peripheral circadian clocks in the skin, which play a key role in regulating its physiological metabolism. 

In response, Provital developed Circanblue™,  a vegan postbiotic active obtained via a plant-based fermentation of Lactococcus lactis. It re-synchronizes the skin’s natural circadian cycle after this has been altered by excessive Blue Light exposure - a concern growing amongst consumers on social media (#bluelight – 471.8M views on TikTok, January 2024) as they align their wellness and skincare goals.

Key Assets:

Vegan postbiotic / Obtained through biotechnology from cabbage (fermentation) / Regulates the skin’s circadian clock 🡪 “circabiology – science of resynchronization” / Regulates the impact of Blue Light on the circadian cycle

Lipotrue – Calisensix (January 2024)

Addressing rising cases of skin sensitivity, Lipotrue has developed Calisensix, a unique solution that resolves neurogenic inflammation while at the same time enhancing pleasant sensations in the skin.

Calisensix™ targets sensitive skin from both a holistic (sensorial) and biological approach, using plant stem cell technology obtained from the bark of white willow and tomato plants. There is growing interest in the potential regenerative benefits of stem cells for skincare - Spate reports a +27% increase in Google searches YoY( 2022 vs 20223), while TikTok views of #stemcells have clocked over 231.7M (January 2024).

Key Assets:

Resolves neurogenic inflammation / Targets nociception in keratinocytes / Boosts PIEZO1 to enhance pleasant sensations in sensitive skin

Biolie – Garnet Red (January 2024)

Meeting the continued demand for ultra-healthy cosmetics ingredients, Biolie has developed a solvent and water-free enzymatic extraction process - a zero-waste, 100% green technology. This bio-based enzymatic extraction method enables the creation of natural actives from plant-based raw materials, such as microalgae, beechnut, chicory seed, and lettuce. The lab’s latest ingredient, launched at the show, is Garnet Red - a natural lipophilic red dye for makeup and skincare applications.

Key Assets:

Natural antioxidant / Stable to heat and UV / Sustainable, 100% natural / Vegan alternative to Carmin

 
 

2. Longevity - Answering pro-aging/pre-aging concerns

The science and semantics of longevity are entering the skincare conversation, as the desire to live longer and healthier impacts consumers’ expectations of skincare performance. Biohacking culture, spurred by outrageously ambitious procedures undertaken by Silicon Valley billionaires, is taking over TikTok, with views of #reverseaging videos clocking over 180.7M views (January 2024).

In skincare, “anti-aging” ingredients are now “pro-longevity” ingredients. 

Lubrizol – Uplevity e-Lift Peptide (September 2023)

Tapping into the rising interest in Microcurrent Facials (+27% increase in Google searches in 2023 vs 2022, according to Spate), Lubrizol has captured the uplifting and firming results of microcurrent devices into a sustainable and naturally derived tetrapeptide. The powerful active mimics the benefits of electrical stimulation on the skin, increasing collagen production and improving mitochondrial function for an anti-aging effect. 

Key Assets:

Peptidic active / For lifting and firming effect / Focus on the up of the face (eye contour) / Inspired by the effect of the microcurrent tools: stimulate an electric stimulation of the derma (cell contraction) / Results at 7 and 28 days

Mibelle – RejuveNAD (November 2023) 

The role of NAD+ in cellular processes continues to gather interest, with consumer searches for NAD up +24.2% YoY (2023 vs 2022, Spate), as they investigate ways of boosting regeneration for anti-aging results. 

RejuveNAD™from Mibelle introduces the possibility of boosting NAD+ levels in the skin through cosmetic applications (rather than via supplements). The ingredient, derived from indoor-farmed sunflower sprouts,  targets age-related processes by optimizing cellular functions, and revitalizing the skin by naturally boosting levels of NAD+. According to Mibelle, the skin looks eight years younger in 42 days. Google searches for NAD have increased +24.2% YoY 

Key Assets:

NAD booster / For skin longevity / Obtained from sunflower sprouts from indoor farming / Acts on 5 of the 9 pillars of skin aging

3. Adaptive: Formulating for climate-adaptive freshness 

The post-pandemic revenge travel surge is set to continue, with 54% of respondents saying they’ll take even more international trips in 2024 than they did in 2023 (Going – The State of Travel – 2024). A culture of nomadism is fuelling a new category of Flexcare - beauty adapted for the unique specificities of travel, which prioritizes convenience and freshness. In this context, we noted several key innovations that center claims of climate-adaptiveness and refreshing sensations. 

The return of travel and rising global temperatures are driving consumers to search out cooling and refreshing sensations - TikTok views of the hashtags #skincarecooling and #skincooling are at 280.1M and 43.8M, respectively ( January 2024).

Unipex – Frozen Glow - Meeting this rising demand is Unipex’s Frozen Glow, which is formulated for a deeply refreshing effect. Frozen Glow contains peppermint leaf water, which stimulates blood circulation to restore the skin’s radiance and impart cooling and toning benefits. 

Key Assets:

Solid emulsion water/wax / Contains H2Olixir Peppermint from Berkem for purifying, toning, and refreshing / A combination of two inverse emulsifiers: Evicare® PGPR from Evident & GlucateTMDO from Lubrizol / Using a new brand’s technology to add hydrophilic actives

PolymerExpert – AquaStick

Combining the need for a convenient format with refreshing effects, the AquaStick is formulated to deliver the fresh feeling of water on the skin, with the soothing sensation of a cream. There is huge interest in on-the-go suncare formats - TikTok views of the hashtag #skincarestick are at 277.8B (January 2024) - presenting a huge opportunity for innovation.

Key Assets: 

Innovating galenic: solid format with 50% of aqueous phase / 100% natural fragrance with aquatic notes that enhance the sensation of freshness


Roelmi France - Ready Stick Go

Designed specifically to combat the effects of sports on the skin, the water-free stick contains microbiota actives that impart a cooling effect while keeping the skin hydrated during activities.

Key Assets:

Water-free / Fast hydration / Cooling effect / Multitasking functionality 

 
 

Special thanks to all the exhibitors for taking the time to explain their new ingredients.

The Cosmetics IC Take

In our latest Skincare Inspiration from the US report – Transformative Beauty - we explore the product and ingredient innovations impacting the US market and decipher the implications for future innovations.

Contact us today for your copy, and for details of our upcoming animations at MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 14/15 2024). Find us at booth L36, where we will host our signature Inspiration Bar and Beauty Talks, highlighting our future predictions for 2024 and beyond.

Trend Inspiration: Maison&Objets 2024

Wint Design Lab - Photo by Cosmetics IC

With the theme of Tech Eden, the 30th-anniversary edition of Maison&Objet (18-22 January, Paris) invited exhibitors to consider how the symbiosis of technology and nature will inform future design scenarios. 

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s Coralie Arme, Forecasting & Insights Consultant, explored the show at Paris’ Parc Expo Villepinte, to uncover the top 3 fields of innovation to inspire future-focused solutions for the beauty industry. 

This year's theme explored the vital links between technology and nature, showcasing future-facing design that improves overall well-being and prioritizes environmental sustainability.” Coralie Arme, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation Consultant in Forecasting and Insights. 

1.Symbio-tech: Augmenting nature

WINT Design Lab perfectly embodied the show’s symbiotic emphasis, as the Berlin-based design and research lab explored the relationship between ecological and technological responsibilities.

The studio overcomes disciplinary silos to tackle today's challenges through various projects including bio-textile innovation. Collaborating with biotech startup Mimotype, WINT has developed a high-performance outdoor textile created from 100% collagen. Through this future-proof innovation, the design lab is tapping into the potential of quick iteration cycles.

In beauty,  there is a growing normalization of human augmentation through technology (AI-supported healthcare, adaptive and personalized systems, circadian rhythm lighting, etc).  Harnessing technology to stimulate natural processes, Solaris Laboratories’ LED Intensive Hair Growth Stimulating Brush is an advanced hair and scalp treatment technology that helps prevent hair loss and reverse thinning hair. 

Wint Design Lab - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Solaris Laboratories NY - Photo by Cosmetics IC

2. Upscaling waste: Imagining new-gen materials

Mâche&Maché is a culinary design studio committed to exploring the hyper-future of food. For the show, at the “Inspire me!” by Peclers corner, the studio showcased “Papier Alimentaire” - an edible (and decorative) packaging material made from waste fruit and vegetables designed for large-scale use in the food industry. According to the studio, for sustainable food to be widely accepted, it must offer a more desirable experience than today's standard fare.

In the wellness corner, Japanese brand Incense Kitchen showcased a new incense created from repurposed matcha. The brand advocates recycling matcha into tea incense (instead of perfume) to prevent the wasteful disposal of fine matcha particles in factory machines and air purifiers, providing an alternative and more sustainable outcome.

Mâche&Maché x Peclers - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Incense Kitchen - Photo by Cosmetics IC

3. Healing homes: Anti-anxiety interiors

When one crisis follows another, the actions needed to respond sometimes seem out of reach. Modern society is gripped by an anxiety epidemic, and designers are charged with providing solutions that holistically ease discomfort. The notions of sensoriality and fluidity are thus at the heart of tomorrow's design challenges. 

Furniture and objects exhibited sinuous, undulating curves to give everyday settings the air of primitive landscapes with spiritual dimensions. Roundness is as de rigueur as ever, transforming living spaces into cocoons of comfort. Sofas, armchairs, and chairs play a common score, that of an enveloping, reassuring hug.

Mathieu Lehanneur's "Outonomy" offers an alternative vision of survivalist habitats. By questioning the kind of life we want to lead, Outonomy proposes a return to an original cave, with the comforts we no longer wish to give up.

In beauty, Austrian skincare brand Be […] my friend uses only the purest organic, plant-based ingredients to provide maximum care for the skin, while at the same time minimizing stress. The two pillars of the brand are to elevate the way the skin is treated, while simultaneously elevating the way the environment is treated. 

“Outonomy” by Mathieu Lehanneur - Photo by Cosmetics IC

Be [..] my friend - Photo by Cosmetics IC

The Cosmetics IC Take

Tech Eden suggests a Protopian vision of the future - a natural awakening, enriched by technological innovations - from biotextiles and 3D printing to AI-powered design. Nature remains omnipresent through radical interpretations of color, form, and material.

In our latest Makeup Inspiration from the US report - Protopian Beauty - we investigate the latest product innovations in the US and explore how technological acceleration is paving the way for a  more progressive future. For more information on this report, and for details on our upcoming animations at MakeUp in Los Angeles (Feb 14/15 2024) - drop us a line today





TikTok: 2023 End of Year Inspiration

To wrap up a year of inspiration, the CIC team has analysed the TikTok trends that dominated in the last months of 2023 - from superhero-inspired effects and sugar-glazed wintery hues to intentionally unsettling makeup. 


1. RAINBOW MASK

With its links to the LGBTQIA+ pride flag, Rainbow Mask makeup involves creating a spectrum of colours across the eye area, in the shape of a superhero mask. To begin, two strips of tape are placed on the face, above and below the eyes, to create a defined area for applying makeup.

White eyeshadow powder is then applied as a base, with different colours layered on top to create a rainbow effect. The tape is removed to reveal the mask effect. For finishing touches, the look is enhanced with hand-drawn artistry, gems and 3D embellishments.

There are alternative approaches, such as James Charles' preference for a mask in shades of pink with clouds, but the fundamental concept remains the same.

Key hashtags: #rainbowmask: 3.5M views / #rainbowmakeup: 349.5M views

Key influencers: @lucasrodgerss/ @mimiermakeup/ @beatsbydeb/ @nikkietutorials/ @jamescharles  

 
 

2. Sugar Plum Fairy

Once again, Hailey Bieber triggered another viral makeup trend, this time fusing food-inspired narratives with her signature, Clean Girl coquettishness to declare winter 23/24, Sugar Plum Fairy season. Inspired by her childhood role in The Nutcracker, Bieber posted a festive look that riffs on the ballet’s iconic Land of Sweets segment, using sugary, shimmery pink hues with plum undertones.

To create the look, bright pink blush is extended from the cheeks to the temple and draped across the bridge of the nose and the eyes to create a frost-bitten glow.  Plum, berry, warm pink, and mauve colours are also used by TikTokkers, reflecting the look on different skin tones. Defining her brows and adding a subtle glow with highlighter, Bieber then adds faux freckles. The look is completed by the Rhode Peptide Lip Treatment in the limited-edition shade Jelly Bean (a shimmery sheer pink).

Sugar Plum Fairy makeup builds on several key trends that surfaced last year (most of which were perpetuated by Bieber herself), blending the glow of #CleanGirl with the pink hues of #Balletcore.

Rising hashtags: #sugarplumfairy: 129M views/ #ballet: 19.8B views/ #balletcore: 1.4B views

Key influencers: @haileybieber/ @alissajanay1/ @victorialyn

 
 

3. Uncanny Valley Makeup

The Uncanny Valley trend, popularised by creator Emilia Barth, gained widespread attention at the end of 2023, thanks to her unsettling transformation into a humanoid robot. Using pale foundation and concealer, liquid eyeliner, and contour powder, Barth mimics the plasticky appearance of a robot’s skin, creating an eerily captivating effect.

The look is inspired by the slightly awkward imagery often generated by AI, which has flooded the public consciousness in recent months. TikTokkers have been quick to capture this uneasy aesthetic by recreating the almost otherworldly looks. Part robotic and part doll-like, the finished result is purposefully unnerving, with TikTokkers adding exaggerated facial expressions and haunting choral music to double-down on the uncanny effect. The trend now extends beyond mere makeup application, to include an Uncanny Valley-inspired filter. With its esoteric and unconventional themes, #UncannyValley occupies the same universe as #weirdcore and #dreamcore, as Gen Z continues to explore increasingly extreme and subversive narratives as a form of self-expression.

Rising hashtags: #uncannyvalleymakeup: 233.5M views

Key influencers: @blonde.girlyy/ @mimiermakeup/ @yodelinghaley 

 
 

The Cosmetics IC Take

TikTok continues to prove to be a vital indicator of the motivations of Gen Z, and our latest Trend Book, Beauty Protopia: Makeup Inspiration from the US is enriched with the latest TikTok data (provided by our partner, Spate), which feeds our prospective research and trend analysis. In it, we explore the latest consumer shifts and how these are impacting makeup - including the evolution of subversive messaging, as consumers embrace increasingly unconventional - and unhinged - aesthetics.

Contact us today for more information on Beauty Protopia: Makeup Inspiration from the US.

The Female Gaze: Radically Redefining Korean Femininity

Self-expression, equality, and independence: these are the prominent demands of young Korean women, who, despite continued obstruction, are pushing against established narratives to rewrite the rules of femininity. 

 

Photo credit - Oddtype via Instagram

 

Our latest What’s Up Korea report delves into what has become one of the biggest social-cultural shifts in Korea - the rise of feminism and the emergence of new aesthetic codes. With 64% of Korean women in their 20s supporting feminism, this is an issue that is already influencing and shaping K-beauty trends, giving rise to gender-neutral, masculine, and rebellious looks.  

Read on to discover key highlights from The Female Gaze - one of five key territories identified in our full What’s Up Korea report - as femininity is radically redefined by the next generation.

1. 4B BEAUTY

South Korea has had a recent history of bold feminist action, from the call to “free the corset” in the late 2010s to today’s radical “4B” movement. The formation of 4B marks an ideological shift as young Korean women mobilize to shake up societal expectations. The four "B’s" are based on the following four principles: Bihon (no to heterosexual marriage), Bichulsan (no to childbirth), Biyeonae  (no to dating), and Bisekseu (no to heterosexual sexual relationships). 

This radical new thinking bleeds into beauty, fuelling  #utilitycore and #militarycore trends on social media, as women absorb traditionally masculine codes into their beauty sphere and K-pop idols proudly go makeup-free. At Seoul Fashion Week, highly functional and gorpcore-esque, clothing came in a muted, military palette that was echoed in the minimalist, colorless and barefaced makeup looks, spotted at Ajobyajo and BLR.


2. GRUNGE GODDESS

Breaking the rules of traditional makeup, the emergence of alternative looks is closely aligned with the rise of feminism. We are tracking a growing trend for glossy lids, hand-drawn freckles (+33.7% YoY increase in Naver searches - Spate NY Tool - Oct 2022 to Nov 2023 vs Oct 2021 to Nov 2022), dark under eyes, teeth gems, bleached eyebrows and piercings. At Fashion Week, the aesthetic was elevated at Vegan Tiger, where models sported exaggerated freckles and glossy lids, while at HEEYONGHeE, the only obvious sign of makeup was a dark purple undereye. Here, hair was almost greasy, with loose strands falling all over the face for a messy, don’t care look.


3. WARRIOR GLAM

Coming out fighting, young women are going to war with the patriarchy. South Korean women are being shown in a new, empowering light - from the success of the new feminist thriller Green Night (starring Fan Bingbing) to the bold feminist lyrics in the debut single of girl group Nugu. Against this backdrop, fashion and beauty are becoming key weapons to articulate women’s dissatisfaction with outdated ideologies. At Fashion Week, Holy Number 7 took inspiration from the boxing gym, with models sporting sparring gloves and head protectors as accessories. In beauty, a more sophisticated coolness emerges, far from the romantic and girly aesthetic that defines mainstream Korean tastes. New brands are inspiring consumers to embrace their individuality, such as the vegan-certified Oddtype, which proposes an embracing of individuality, and beauty that cannot be defined by one type. This brings a fresh perspective to the Korean beauty space, that breaks away from cliches. 

THE COSMETICS IC TAKE

Shifting gender politics in Korea will have global implications for the beauty industry, as young Korean women move away from conventional beauty tropes to embrace more radical and expressive looks. This departure will have a huge impact on cosmetics innovation, changing the direction of the Hallyu beauty wave as brands must adapt to stay relevant to politically engaged and empowered consumers.

To get your copy of the full What’s Up Korea report, to arrange a personalised Seoul Inspiration Tour, or for a specialist Seoul Retail Report, contact us today.