Source: Deathtothestock - Photo by Daniel Faro

Following three days of intense innovation-hunting at the recent in-Cosmetics Global 2024 (April 16 to 18, Paris), our experts have identified 4 key trends that will transform the world of cosmetic ingredients.

Our full coverage of the show will be published in the upcoming report, Ingredient Innovation: Inspiration from in-Cosmetics Global 2024. Below is a taster trend from the team’s comprehensive analysis - read on to discover ingredients at the cutting edge of science.

OPTIMAL FUTURE: THE RISE OF RADICAL SCIENCE

While consumers are increasingly aware of the impact of science and new technologies, suppliers are responding by developing ingredients that allow brands to create even more technically elevated products.

Growing trust in the science community (57% of respondents rate scientists as trustworthy) should spur brands to invest in forward-thinking innovations. Accenture reports that brands championing science-led claims secure 2.5 times more venture capital funding compared to their counterparts focused solely on natural and sustainable claims. This is fertile ground for beauty brands, who have an opportunity to leverage science-backed formulations and innovations as a cornerstone of trust and credibility in their offerings.

1. BIOMIMETIC BOOSTERS

The exosome boom

As exosomes gain interest in cosmetics for their application in anti-aging solutions (US Google searches for Exosome Therapy have increased +82.5% YoY*), there has been a significant increase in exosome-related ingredient innovation. The surge in exosome-based formulas will help propel the exosome market size to $3.2B in 2032, growing at a CAGR of 29.9% from 2023.

GFC Life Science – Camellia Stem-Exo (Korea)

This new exosome ingredient is derived from antioxidant-rich Camellia Callus. The exosome has a high-absorption function, due to being 184-462 times smaller than skin pore size and key claims include anti-inflammatory (18.86% reduction in Nitric Oxide) and whitening effects (13.00% reduction in extracellular melanin production).

Exolab Italia – Exo Elixir Camellia Sinensis (Italy)

Exolab has harnessed the active power of organic exosomes derived from untreated Camellia Sinensis, rich in polyphenols and catechins. Exo-Elixir Camellia Sinensis encapsulates key active ingredients like EGCG and vegetable Melatonin for neurocosmetic effects. Other innovations include exosomes derived from Alpine Rose for photo-aging, Liquorice for elasticizing, and fresh fruits for skin repair.

Source: Exolab - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

CHAMeditech – CHA-Centella CA6 Probiotic EV & CHA-Tremella TF1 Probiotic EV (Korea)

Created from the synergy of three exosomes found in lactobacilli, these probiotic ingredients claim to have superior anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects that help maintain healthy skin. The bacteria-derived exosomes calm irritation, prevent pigmentation and strengthen the barrier.

Bio-mirrors

New innovations promise next-level efficacy, mimicking biological functions to improve skin penetration and active assimilation.

LipoTrue – Frag-Brillin remastered™ (Spain)

Drawing on a vast data set that integrates various technology platforms, in silico and biomimetic Peptide design, and marine biology research, LipoTrue™ has developed Frag-Brillin remastered™, a biomimetic fragment of human Fibrillin-1 grown in plants. It enhances skin elasticity by triggering TGFβ repair response, bolstering cellasticity, and reducing wrinkle-inducing microfibril degradation, thus revitalizing skin's structural integrity and appearance.

Source: LipoTrue - Photo by Cosmetics IC at in-Cosmetics Global 2024

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics – Corneopeptyl™ (Swiss - recently bought by Clariant)

Corneopeptyl™ represents an innovative biomimetic Peptide, synthesized through green chemistry. It mirrors the activity of the LCE6A Protein, fortifying the corneocyte envelope to enhance skin barrier function and tackle premature aging by diminishing wrinkles and enhancing skin texture, firmness, and moisture levels.

Odycea – Opal Alga GW (France)

Opal Alga harnesses dynamic light-responsive technology, inspired by the behavior of Cystoseira Tamariscifolia, to revitalize fatigued skin impacted by modern stressors. It harmonizes the skin’s microenvironment and restores its natural circadian rhythm for renewed vitality. Inspired by algae's adaptive behavior to light cycles, Odycea aims to optimize photosynthesis efficiency, illustrating their commitment to biomimicry in skincare innovation.

2. FAST-TRACKED FUNCTIONALITY

Bio-inspired delivery systems

Several suppliers were inspired by nature to create new delivery systems that improve active access and allow for deeper penetration.

Active Concepts – AC Exovitalize (Italy)

Active Concepts is at the forefront of personal care innovation with core technology platforms including BioFermentation, Complex Actives, Extracts, Proteins, Delivery Systems, and Functional Materials. Their groundbreaking BioAuthentic Exosomes line introduces exosome-inspired delivery systems tailored for specific skincare benefits, such as AC ExoVitalize, which enhances cellular processes like oxidative phosphorylation and glycolysis, promoting a rejuvenated and lifted appearance at the cellular level.

Bicosome – Bicobiome® (Spain)

Bicobiome® targets oily scalps prone to dandruff, rebalancing the microbiome, reducing sebum formation, restoring scalp barrier function, and eliminating dandruff scales. Inspired by skin biology, Bicosome® mimics the skin's transportation system, the lamellar bodies. Upon application, Bicosomes® fuse with the skin surface, allowing smart disks to selectively penetrate targeted skin layers and deliver actives. Subsequently, Bicosome®-ordered lipid structures integrate into the skin matrix, reinforcing the barrier function without compromising skin health.

Plant-based delivery systems

Plant-inspired delivery systems leverage natural compounds and mechanisms to enhance the efficacy and bioavailability of active ingredients.

CORE Biogenesis – Peauvita™ (France)

The biotechnology firm based in Strasbourg, France, specializes in engineering plants to produce valuable Polypeptides for the cosmetic industry. Peauvita™, blends plant biotechnology with growth factors, incorporating Oleosomes - naturally occurring carriers found in all plant seeds - to ensure advanced skin delivery and controlled release, representing a transformative approach to skincare.

3. SMART BEAUTY

AI-optimized ingredients

With continued advancements in AI capabilities, suppliers are now using this technology to improve and optimize their ingredients and help find new formulation solutions.

LipoTrue – SP[AI]3™ (Spain)

SP[AI]3™ is a smart Peptide obtained in silico through AI among thousands of candidates, with optimal binding and specificity. It precisely targets key acne influencers to modulate sebum synthesis, reduce pore size and obstruction, and decrease inflammation.

AI-assisted development

Bloomage Biotechnology – Bloomcolla™ Coll III (China)

Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ employs AI assistance to accurately select fragments rich in active human collagen sites, ensuring a final sequence that is completely homologous with human collagen. Its environmentally friendly production process offers advantages in safety and purity. Notably, Bloomcolla Col Ⅲ possesses unique active sites capable of binding to 11 integrins, effectively activating cell signaling pathways and providing superior soothing and repairing abilities.

Cargill – Actigum™ Care (USA)

Actigum™ Care, with its 94.5% natural composition and innovative blend of starch and sclerotium gum, presents a sustainable alternative to traditional petro-based polymers. It provides superior functionality and sensorial enhancement through AI-based development.

The Cosmetics IC Take

New scientific developments offer outstanding benefits for beauty brands, as suppliers leverage the latest biomimetic technology to create potent, sustainable ingredients that double-down on efficacy. The integration of AI will continue at pace, promising next-level advancements and accelerated performance, hyper-attuned to individual specificities.