I Feel Good 2024: Innovations in Wellness

Death to Stock - Photo Shauna Summers_

The latest advancements in clean formulations and natural beauty resources were showcased over two days at the recent I Feel Good event in Paris (September 17- 18, 2024). Ingredient and product innovations underscored the growing alignment between the worlds of beauty and wellness. Trend and Digital Assistant Anna shares her top 5 discoveries from the event, where award-winning innovations signalled the dominant role biotechnology would play in the future of clean beauty.

OUR TOP 5 INNOVATIONS:

Lutein-Fortified Beverage - Eye health support drink by Azelis

Winner of the Public Acclaim Achievement Award, the Lutein-Fortified Beverage is formulated to support eye health with three clinically-researched ingredients: lutein, lycopene, and zeaxanthin. These compounds are known for protecting against blue light and supporting visual function. The drink is flavoured with mandarin and features an innovative formula that keeps the active ingredients suspended in the liquid, ensuring consistent delivery. Consuming 2 to 3 mL daily for optimal eye support is recommended. 

Vecollage Fortify L - Biomimetic vegan collagen by Adara

Vecollage Fortify L, winner of the Best Innovation Award, is a skin-identical collagen obtained via biotechnology through yeast fermentation. As a biomimetic collagen, it allows for improved skin penetration and effective action. Moreover, it is highly effective in protecting the skin's network and preventing degradation. The increasing demand for collagen in skincare stands out as it aligns with the current market trend. Additionally, it has a solid ecological advantage, neither synthetic nor derived from animal sources.

Charcoal scrub - 100% upcycled exfoliating treatment by Laboratoire LBP 

This scrub, awarded Best Formulation this year, uses 100% natural, upcycled ingredients for sensitive skin. It includes charcoal from the food industry, rose water from Damask rose distillation, and a moisturizing agent derived from gin distillation with barley ferment. The treatment is applied in a thick layer and offers a pleasant sensory experience while being eco-friendly and completely clean.

Pschiit Beauté - Innovative nutri-cosmetics spray by Kares-Up

Aiming to simplify beauty routines, Pschiit Beauté is a nutri-cosmetics anti-ageing buccal spray that competed in the Public Acclaim Achievement category. Unlike traditional nutri-cosmetics, which often come in capsule formats that can feel too medicinal, this innovative spray offers a more approachable alternative. With just two sprays, it delivers a potent dose of anti-ageing ingredients, making it both practical and user-friendly. Its concentrated formula provides visible results with minimal effort. The sugar-free composition and pleasant rose flavour enhance the experience, encouraging seamless integration into daily habits.

Sensol 100 - Sustainable innovation in cosmetics by GreenTech

Sensol100, a functional ingredient that competed in the Innovation category, is derived from the refinement of upcycled avocado oil. A process of decolourization and deodorization transforms the oil into a light beige, butter-like texture. Rich in essential fatty acids, including oleic, linoleic, and palmitic acids, Sensol 100 plays a vital role in skin regeneration without relying on palm oil. Suitable for all types of emulsions, it is also ideal for tinted lip balms, providing excellent pigment dispersion and a silky texture similar to silicone, allowing for the replacement of silicones and mineral oils. Additionally, Sensol 100 has a coating effect on hair fibers, ensuring easy incorporation while offering beneficial biological properties. Its 100% natural composition features a simple and effective INCI.

THE CIC TAKE

Exhibitors demonstrated how beauty and wellness are increasingly interconnected as consumers’ well-being ambitions are closely tied to their relation to beauty. The event underscored the opportunity in targeted inner-outer solutions, while the realization of exciting new formats (beverages, buccal sprays) shows the potential to unlock new beauty rituals.

Our trend research and innovation consultancy is informed by our many visits to industry exhibitions and events, where our team tracks fresh-from-the-lab innovations and ingredients. Further insight and inspiration are available in the agency’s latest trend report, Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S.

Contact the team today for more information!

PARIS INSPIRATION TOUR: Around the 8th arrondissement

The team recently wandered from the 8th to the 1st arrondissement, seeking inspiration in Paris’s most innovative retail spaces. Along the way, we encountered the diversity and depth of the city’s shopping scene - from dynamic pop-ups to immersive concept stores.

Discover 6 of our favorite finds from the 8th:

KAIST X AMOREPACIFIC - Photo Cosmetics IC

KAIST X AMOREPACIFIC

Centre Culturel Coréen, 20 rue la Boétie, 75008

A collaborative installation from KAIST (Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology) and the K-beauty group Amorepacific explores the fusion of technological innovation and beauty. Merging minimalist Korean design with interactive technology, the experience begins with a skin tone scanner that identifies the visitor’s ideal color palette and recommends products from the Amorepacific brand, TONEWORK. Following this, AI technology analyzes the specific undertones of the skin using a small card placed on the jaw to suggest the most suitable shade of Hera foundation, tailored to desired preferences (a luminous finish, a darker shade, or specific undertones like yellow or pink). The recommended shades can then be tested on-site, with over 205 custom foundation options available. Purchases, however, must be made online.

CAFE DE LA ROSE

52 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008

Located on the iconic Champs Elysées, the Café de la Rose Lancôme offers a multisensory experience that captures the essence of the brand through its star ingredient: the rose. Upon entering, the subtle fragrance of roses immediately immerses visitors in the Lancôme universe. The café's décor is a palette of pinks, accented with touches of gold and white, and accompanied by oversized floral motifs and elements inspired by the brand’s fragrances. A cafe counter serves rose-inspired pastries crafted by Nina Metayer (recognized as the world's best pastry chef in 2023 and 2024), which can be eaten out on the flower-covered terrace or taken away in personally customized gift boxes. The whole experience is elevated by dancing robots that pluck a Lancôme rose from a display, allowing customers to spray it with their chosen fragrance.

CAFE DE LA ROSE - Photo Cosmetics IC

SKIMS POP-UP - Champs Elyséess - Photo Cosmetics IC

SKIMS

60 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008

The SKIMS pop-up store (until September 3rd), situated in the atrium of the Galeries Lafayette Champs Élysées, presents an edited selection of products from the celebrity brand. Though located at the heart of the department store, the presence of SKIMS is signposted by mannequins dressed in the brand's signature shapewear, displayed prominently at the entrance and along the main staircase. The pop-up allows clients to explore the Fits Everybody line, featuring underwear, bodysuits, and t-shirts, as well as the Seamless Sculpt collection, which includes shapewear, loungewear, and ready-to-wear pieces in cotton. Additionally, select items from the swimwear collection are also available.

ON

65-67 Avenue des Champs-Élysées,75008

Cult running shoe brand ON has unveiled its second store in Paris and its largest to date. The 1,513m² flagship occupies a classic Haussmannian building, but the Parisian charm on the exterior gives way to an industrial and functional interior that has become a signature aesthetic of the performance-led brand. Stone walls, LED light panels, and concrete floors create a modern, minimalist atmosphere, complemented by industrial display units, counters, and stainless steel shelving. The store spans three levels: the first floor features tennis and training collections, the lower level is dedicated to running shoes, bags, and accessories, and the upper level showcases lifestyle products, indicating the brand's expansion into a broader fashion label.

ON - Champs Elysées - Photo Cosmetics IC

Issey Miyake Paris - Photo Cosmetics IC

ISSEY MIYAKE

28 Rue François 1er, 75008

Located on Rue François 1er, the 360m², two-storey ISSEY MIYAKE store combines art and fashion in a setting characterized by contemporary architecture. The interior, crafted by Tokyo-based designer Tokujin Yoshioka, features two walls entirely covered in anodized aluminum, painted in a custom shade of orange, creating an energetic and futuristic atmosphere. The store reflects Issey Miyake's approach, emphasizing minimalist design and a detailed exploration of materials and forms, consistent with the brand's avant-garde ethos. The store is designed to function as an integrated brand experience, displaying the innovation and craftsmanship associated with the brand's global reputation. Here, visitors can discover elements from the Pleats Please, Homme Plissé, A-POC ABLE, Bao Bao, and 132 5 collections, with the Homme Plissé collection further supplemented by an explanatory corner featuring videos that delve into the details of the collection.

MAISON DYPTIQUE

7 Rue Duphot, 75001

Designed as a living space, this 400 m² boutique on Rue Duphot blends retail with culture, within the architectural elegance of a Parisian apartment. The boutique is a showcase of craftsmanship and artistry, hosting exhibitions, workshops, and events throughout the year. A key feature of the Diptyque experience in this boutique is the dedicated space for fragrance customization. In the summer, the boutique transformed to host an ephemeral space celebrating the centenary of Villa Noailles, where ten young French artists were given carte blanche to create unique decorations on the large-format candles available for sale.

Diptyque - Photo Cosmetics IC

INSPIRATION TOURS

Our Inspiration Tours are individually tailored guides to the world’s best beauty cities. From the K-beauty capital of Seoul to the laid-back cool of Los Angeles - we know where to shop and what to see to inspire your next innovation.

Contact the team today for more information.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds)

TikTok: July 2024 Trend Inspiration

Sources: @illumin_arty / @christendominique / @hayleybuix

Every month the Cosmetics IC social media team takes the pulse of TikTok to unearth the biggest beauty trends, viral hacks and buzzing products. In July, summer skin is high on the agenda with the rise of a new bronzer hack, and character-driven looks continue to capture the imagination of creative makeup fans. Read on to discover which pop icon’s look is on everyone’s moodboard this month.

 

1. Bronzer as concealer - New beauty hack

TikTokers are trying a new technique to correct the color of dark undereye circles. The trick is to use bronzer as a color corrector to darken the area around the eyes, blend, and then apply concealer over the top. The warm tones in the bronzer cancel out the purple tones in the dark circles and open up the features to create more definition. The trend demonstrates the expanding use of bronzers beyond traditional applications.

#concealerhack (711.8M total views in the US)

@christendominique / @mimiermakeup / @makeupbymonicaa/

 
 

 2. Flower bag hack - arty vibes

TikTokers are becoming increasingly skilled at finding ways to express their creativity. This month, they are using a technique that involves filling a small plastic bag with water, tying it then painting the bottom in bright colors. The painted side of the bag is then pressed against the skin, leaving the impression of a flower. More detail is then added by hand, to create bold and intricate artworks.

#flowermakeup (33M total views in the U.S)

@illumin_arty / @natashajanewood / @hicosmina

 
 

 

3. Lisa Blackpink makeup - Kpop Tok

K-pop star Lisa from Blackpink has triggered a new trend on TikTok with the release of the video for her solo single “Rockstar”. Fans are transforming into Lisa’s high-glam look, with ethereal skin, double-lined iridescent eyes, super-glossy lips, and crystal accents.

#lisablackpink (794.6M total views in the U.S)

 @hayleybuix / @taontm / @abigelic

 
 


The Cosmetics IC Take

Our new trend report, Higher Perspectives: Makeup Inspiration from the U.S., explores how treat culture continues to impact the U.S. beauty sector, which filters through in TikTok users’ love of high glamour and celebrity-inspired looks (#lisablackpink). The report also examines how new consumer archetypes are adopting an art student mentality to experimentation, thinking outside of the box to bring new levels of creativity and invention to the makeup space (#flowermakeup).

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

 

Sources: Cosmetics IC – July 2024 

Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (From June 16, 2024 to July 14, 2024 vs May 19, 2024 to June 16, 2024)

 




Key Skincare Trends on Social Media

Deathtostock – Photography by Shauna Summers

Social media’s role in beauty continues to expand and evolve from a place of inspiration to a source of innovation. New trends, techniques, and semantics cascade from the online universes of TikTok and IG to the offline world, changing the very culture of skincare and makeup. With the power to create new narratives that alter consumer behaviors, social media is more than just a playground – it’s an essential insight tool.

Every month, the Cosmetics IC team works alongside social media data analysts (Spate and Tribe Dynamics) to decipher the latest beauty trends, identify the most inspiring influencers and spotlight the buzzing products that are shifting the dial on beauty.

Here is a snapshot from our latest skincare social analysis, taken from March 2024:

Top 3 Skincare Brands March 2024(1) – Propelled by Younger Generations.

N° 1. (in EMV) Summer Fridays: +140% YoY

Summer Fridays celebrated its 6th birthday in March with the launch of the Jet Lag Overnight Eye Serum, building on the success of its original hero product – the Jet Lag Mask. Every birthday deserves a good party, and the brand hosted its own at The Grove Los Angeles, with a travel-inspired pop-up called “In The Clouds”. Customers could sample the new products and shop limited edition merch in a dreamy, minimalist setting.

N° 2. (in EMV) Glow Recipe: +141% YoY

The Korean-inspired brand is one of Gen Alpha’s favorite skincare brands, boosted by Tiktok (representing 33% of their EMV). It was also boosted by the launch of the Watermelon Glow Niacinamide Hue Drops at the end of February, which was promoted with a number of viral activations, including “The Dewy World of Glow Recipe” pop-up at Times Square on the 22nd of March. Customers received a complimentary engraving on a full-size purchase of Watermelon Glow Hue Drops or Dew Drops.

N° 3. (in EMV) Sol de Janeiro: +114% YoY

Always a much-talked-about brand on TikTok, Sol de Janeiro is adored by Gen Z (and increasingly by Gen Alpha), tapping the algorithm with videos that explore their product’s more playful and sensorial aspects. The new Rio Radiance SPF 50 collection (sunscreen spray, oil and lotion) was launched in March with a video starring celebrity influencer Sofia Richie Grainge.


Top TikTok Skincare Trends March 2024 – Savvy consumers find new paths for skin solutions adapted to their needs and wallets.

Skin Streaming – Simplified Skincare Routines

#skinstreaming (51.3M views)(2)– Influencer to watch: @dermguru

Skin Streaming is a trend focused on simplifying skincare routines by using fewer products that serve multiple purposes, rather than relying on a multitude of single-use products. “Skin Streaming” achieves a +34460% MoM and a +16660% YoY increase.(3)

Matte Sunscreens – Shine-Free Protection

#softmattesunscreen (13.1M views)(2) – Influencer to watch: @paularmzz

Matte sunscreen offers sun protection while avoiding a greasy or shiny finish. Trending products include Bubble’s Solar Mate and Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick. “Matte Sunscreen” achieves a +2533% MoM and a +507% YoY increase.(3)

Turmeric Masks – Homemade Radiance Remedies

#turmericfacemask (42.9M views)(2) – Influencer to watch: @anci.social

In March, Turmeric Masks experienced a surge in popularity as internet users crafted their own glow-inducing topical remedies. Turmeric’s rich antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties are believed to bring brightening and radiance to the skin. “Turmeric Mask” achieves a +92% MoM and a +222% YoY increase.(3)

Buzzing products on TikTok – Highlights the ever-growing interest in K-Beauty and porcelain skin.

Cosrx – The 6 Peptide Skin Booster

#skinflooding (265.9M views)(2)

COSRX’s 6 Peptide Skin Booster, introduced in August 2023, is gaining visibility thanks to the growing interest in the skin flooding trend. Skin flooding, akin to moisture sandwiching, hydrates by layering products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods, with Hyaluronic Acid as a key player. “Skin Flooding” has surged by +2292% MoM.(3)

I’m From – Rice Toner

#ricetoner (93M views)(2)

I’m From’s Rice Toner has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, alongside brands like Tirtir, amid a growing interest in K-beauty. Rice toner, infused with rice extracts, aims to hydrate, brighten, and refine the complexion. “Rice Toner” has surged by +2955% YoY.(3)

SKNBODY – Hair Identifier Spray

#sknbodysprayfacialhairshavekit (159M views)(2)

Launched in February 2024, the Sknbody Hair Identifier Spray aims to simplify dermaplaning by coloring hairs white, making them more visible for precise shaving. When influencers began testing the product in March, it caused a big buzz on social media, with some videos clocking up over 15 million views.(2)

Learn more

For more information on our Social Books, Inspiration Reports and consultancy services, contact us.

A special thank you to our data partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate.

About Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation is an international trend forecasting and consulting agency founded in Paris in 2007. The agency is dedicated to driving beauty and wellness innovation, helping brands identify new pathways and realize long-term growth through strategic foresight and trend inspiration. The agency regularly delivers in-depth trend reports covering the global beauty markets, decoding the latest inspirations and market data, and deciphering the latest product releases to feed your brand’s innovation process. We convert insights and inspiration into bespoke leverages, tailored to specific goals and ambitions.

In a consultancy capacity, our global team of industry experts, cultural strategists, product developers and beauty chemists work closely with brands to inspire new product directions and build innovative concepts. We have worked alongside the R&D departments of some of the world’s leading makeup and skincare brands to elevate their scientific message and inspire future-proofed innovation.

Contact

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds).

(1) Tribe Dynamics USA – March 2024 – All social media: Instagram, Youtube, Facebook, Twitter, TikTok, Pinterest, Blog – Progression Month over Month (Mar 2024 vs Feb 2024) – EMV: Earn Media Value
(2) Cosmetics IC Manual Count – TikTok – March 2024
(3) Spate – US TikTok searches – Month over Month (Mar 2024 vs Feb 2024) & Year over Year (from Apr 2023 to Mar 2024 vs Apr 2022 to Mar 2023)

HIGHER FUTURES: Decoding the science & tech Beauty revolution

Source: DeathtotheStock: Photography by Nick Fancher

The pandemic propelled the dynamic digitalisation of our lives; we invited new technologies and scientific solutions into our homes (and bodies) as we sought new approaches and answers to rapidly emerging challenges. In the interim years we have seen the propulsion of Artificial Intelligence further expand our expectations and experience of the world, its capabilities presenting enticing opportunities for brands to develop truly amazing new products and services.

As consumers recognise that science and technology hold the keys to the quest for heightened efficacy, performance, and pleasure, investment in science-led beauty brands is exceeding that in nature-led brands by 2.5x.(1) Within this context, Cosmetics IC developed the strategic perspective of Higher Futures—a call for brands to lead with technology, leverage consumer trust in science, and address the demand for STEM-based beauty solutions while solving humanity’s major challenges.

At a special conference for MakeUp in Paris 2024, Cosmetics IC invited attendees to discover the transformative impact of a science-centric approach to beauty. Read on for an extract of our presentation, where we highlighted three strategic territories for investigation: Augmented Science, Amplified Reality and Post-natural Future, representing the opportunities that await those brands open to leading with science.

Augmented Science: Next-level efficiency

Traditional categories are being redefined by heightened expectations for performance and perfection, influenced by the ubiquity of derma procedures and the growing emphasis on well-being. This compels brands to investigate hyper-personalised solutions and at-home experiences, leaning into the latest technologies to biohack the body, boost longevity, and elevate the daily beauty ritual. AI-powered devices, smart materials and precision-personalized formulas will blur the lines between clinical and convenience.  

  • STEM-symbiotic solutions are infiltrating all categories as society awakens to the transformative potential of new technologies. At New York Fashion Week, designer Christian Cowan collaborated with Adobe to produce an electronically activated dress meticulously crafted from hundreds of laser-cut polymer liquid crystals. The dress becomes a “dynamic canvas,” intuitively shifting in color and tone several times a second.

  • At VivaTech 2024, L'Oréal unveiled Cutaneous Technology, a revolutionary bioprinting process that recreates human skin in its full complexity. This breakthrough allows for inclusive and realistic testing across all skin types, paving the way for personalized beauty products and potentially accelerating advancements in dermatological research and burn treatment.

Amplified Reality: Interversal senses

Defying physical boundaries, human-tech symbiosis is creating "intraversal" realities - universal experiences that bridge the digital and physical worlds. This union opens up new possibilities, evoking joy through immersive encounters and the integration of phygital realms. These advancements not only enhance our capacity for interconnectedness but also introduce novel sensations. A new dimension of sensory experience, characterised by tactile hedonism, is emerging, enriching our perception and engagement with the world. This level of intense immersion is being adapted into the retail experience as brands re-imagine physical stores as sensory playgrounds primed for consumer engagement.

  • Across all categories and industries, technology is being used as a conduit to amplify sensation. At Milan Design Week 2024, Samsung Design's "Newfound Equilibrium" exhibition took visitors on a multi-sensory journey through five spaces, each exploring a different aspect of a harmonious future where technology seamlessly blends with humanity. The exhibit showcased the promise and potential of technology in enriching our lives. 

  • At VivaTech 2024, Guerlain pushed the boundaries of fragrance with an olfactory VR experience. Visitors donned a custom headset and entered a world where iconic Guerlain scents were paired with AI-generated landscapes and the perfumer's creative whispers, showcasing the growing interplay of technology and emotion in art and design. 

Post-natural Future: Deep engagement

In the future, a new intelligence will emerge to respond to the need to create sustainable models that prioritize both survival and empathy for our planet and nature. In this context, technology must be used with intention and functionality, focusing on delivering outcomes that benefit people and the environment. This vision of the future will require combining efficiency, aesthetics, and pleasure while keeping sustainability a central mission. Brands should be encouraged by growing consumer support for synthetics - 20% of  U.S. consumers recognize lab-grown, natural-identical ingredients as effective and safe (22%). (2)

  • Forward-thinking solutions are redefining how we source, create, and utilise resources across different sectors. As one of the major polluters of drinking water across the globe, the textile industry is leading the way in eco-friendly innovation. UK brand Normal Phenomena of Life is pioneering “grown-to-order” lifestyle products, combining the expertise of a design research laboratory and a biotechnology company. The first launch includes clothing dyed with bacteria, prints made with algae ink and objects made with bio-concrete designed by microbes.

  •  Equally in the world of beauty, science and technology are allowing for the development of sustainable, vegan solutions that offer an alternative to chemicals. Always leading with innovation, The Unseen Beauty has developed The ABSORPTION collection featuring Algae Black™, the world's first non-toxic and sustainable black pigment for beauty products.  

The COSMETICS IC Take

  • Brands must embrace radical innovation that delivers effectiveness,  sensorial pleasure and sustainability. 

  • Imagine modular textures and fragrances adapting to climate or thermal conditions alongside multi-level experiences that engage touch, smell, and sight. 

  • The fusion of technology with the body is taken to extremes by billionaire biohackers, but despite the sci-fi ramifications, “longevity” has quickly become a mainstream pursuit. This should inspire brands to develop new products, treatments, and rituals that promote hyper-health. 

  • Inspiration from the advancements in sustainable sourcing and production within the fashion and textile industries can provide valuable insights for the beauty sector's journey towards a more responsible future.

Dive Deeper

 

Further insight and inspiration on the rise of science and technology in beauty is available in the agency’s latest trend reports: Beauty Protopia: Skincare Inspiration from the US . Contact the team today for more information!

Contact us

For more information, email the team at contact@inspiration-creation.com or visit the website at www.inspiration-creation.com.

Follow us on LinkedIn (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation) and on X, Instagram and TikTok (@cosmeticseeds)


Sources:

(1). Accenture - The reinvention of beauty - 2023

(2). Mintel- Beauty and Personal Care Trends - 2023

THE RISE OF PRO-AGING: TRANSFORMING THE NARRATIVES AROUND AGE

Source: Haus Labs

The relation to aging is in deep metamorphosis, and the Beauty industry needs to adapt to this evolution. With Gen X and Boomers living longer and looking to age gracefully, and Gen Z undertaking preventive measures like Botox, the “anti-aging” market is shifting toward a well-aging movement. The longevity narrative infuses all categories, from skincare to makeup, transforming the conversation around “anti-aging beauty” (a taboo word since 2017 in Allure USA magazine). 

In its latest Inspiration Report: Beauty Protopia, Cosmetics Inspirations & Creation explores the trend for Pro-Aging Solutions and spotlights the demand for products that empower healthier (not younger) aging. 

The tide is turning on anti-agism. From the success of ABC’s The Golden Bachelor (#TheGoldenBachelor hashtag has been viewed 148.4M times on TikTok – April 2024) to 88-year-old Dame Maggie Smith’s star turn in Loewe’s Spring 24 campaign, there is a groundswell of positive sentiment (and coolness) towards diverse age representations in fashion and media. 

Aging Positively – The new cool mindset 

Cultural momentum has been fuelled by TikTok, where a new wave of age-positive influencers, filters and viral challenges are helping to build a positive discourse around aging. 

The #TurningMyMomInToMe TikTok trend (460.7M views – April 2024) joyfully sees Gen Z daughters dress like their mothers and vice-versa, while the Age Progression Filter shows users smiling as their face changes over 50 years. On TikTok, makeup for #matureskin (576.7M views - April 2024) is also gaining momentum, propelled by a new generation of "maturetokkers", such as @collen_heidemann (383.6K followers – April 2024) who started her influencer journey at age 69. 

These gestures are reinforcing #agepositivity (27.8M views on TikTok – April 2024) at a time when the world must learn to adjust to the needs of an aging population. By 2050, there will be 2.1 billion people aged 60 and over, and consumers are taking control now to ensure live better for longer. Most Americans (76% according to Ipsos - American affluents spending $200B on wellness annually - July 19, 2023) actively do things to maintain or improve their health, with 92% of consumers believing the best approach to healthy aging focuses on inside-out well-being. 

This mindset shift creates an opportunity for brands to inspire consumers with solutions that support and enhance healthy aging, through every life stage. 

Mature Skin Makeup 

With a sharp rise in searches for mature makeup (+30.3% on Google in the USA - Spate Tool - US Google Search - from Apr 2023 to Mar 2024 vs. Apr 2022 to Mar 2023), brands are stepping up to cater to this demographic. Offering "skinified" formulas, they enhance luminosity and combat signs of aging with youth-boosting ingredients. 

The age-positive beauty brand Flyte.70 targets specifically the mature skin market with age-appropriate formulations that address specific issues of mature skin. The brand opened a flagship store in October 2023 in Massachusetts, with not only their brand but also 14 other brands. 

At the same time, we witness a growing number of beauty brands showcasing their products' efficacy on mature skin, not only meeting consumer needs but also fostering inclusivity and authenticity. This strategic move not only boosts brand image but also sets new standards for beauty. 

Here are some interesting examples from our inspiration basket from our last Makeup-Up report. The Haus Labs Triclone Skin Tech Hydrating + Depuffing Concealer (September 2023) is demonstrated on both young and mature models. It is powered with 20+ skincare ingredients including the brand’s patent-pending Fermented Arnica. Flexible pigments allow the concealer to adhere and adapt to the skin, making it comfortable for all skin ages. 

Lifting and brightening results have become desired features of the healthy aging aesthetic, and will become important elements for brands to consider in their innovation. Like, Physician Formula Eye Booster Eye Lifter (October 2023) - a 2-in-1 eyeshadow that delivers an instant lift thanks to its Tri-Peptide blend. 

Interest in Peptide-packed products that boost Collagen and Elastin while beautifying will continue to gain traction and become key to the “pro-aging” makeup kit. Reeson’s Lid Elixir (July 2023 - new brand) is a Peptide-rich tinted lifting serum developed for the eyelids. The brand positions itself as age-inclusive, its tagline, "Glow isn't just for 20-somethings”, actively encourages older consumers to embrace their mature skin. 

Learn more

For more information on The Rise of Pro-Aging, and for details on how to obtain a copy of Beauty Protopia: Makeup or Skincare Inspiration from the US, find the Cosmetics IC team at the MakeUp in Paris Trends Space - Booth T4, May 29th & 30th 2024. 

HOT SKINCARE TRENDS ON TIKTOK: BUZZING BRANDS AND LATEST TRENDS - MARCH 2024

Sources: @paularmzz: Bubble - Solar Matte / @dermarkologist: COSRX - The 6 Peptide Skin Booster / @theshealyfam: Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

Derma-influences continue to dominate the SkinTok conversation, with trending products linked to routines that promise to optimize skin health, from #skinflooding to #skinstreaming. Working with data analysis supplied by our partners Tribe Dynamics and Spate, the Cosmetics IC team has analyzed the latest skincare trends and products going viral on TikTok. Read on for our cut of the most interesting innovations and inspirations to emerge during early spring, 2024.

TOP TRENDS

1 - Skin Streaming

Fewer products, serving multiple purposes: this is the pillar of the #skinstreaming trend which involves adopting a routine that gives your skin exactly what it needs, at the right time, without overwhelming it with products. This considered approach ticks the boxes on functionality, cost-saving, skin sensitivity and sustainability, meeting the prevalent needs of young consumers. 

#Skinstreaming - 51.3M views/ +34460% MoM/ +16660% YoY

2 - Skin Microbiome

Ongoing conversations around skin health propels interest in the microbiome. Both customers and brands acknowledge the importance of maintaining a healthy biome as part of a holistic beauty routine, which drives interest in new products and routines adapted to reinforce the skin barrier. This conversation is fuelled by TikTok derma-influencers who are effectively communicating the importance of healthy bacteria in enhancing skin appearance.

#Skinmicrobiome - 36.3M views/ +9077% MoM/ +454% YoY

3 - Matte Sunscreen

As the warmer months approach in the West, the conversation turns to suncare. Sophisticated new formulations address the demand for a non-greasy, shine-free finish, as consumers embrace sun protection as part of their daily routine. K-beauty favorite, Beauty of Joseon’s Matte Sun Stick is gaining traction thanks to its smooth, non-sticky finish, developed with cosmetic chemist and influencer, @glowbyramon. 

#Softmattesunscreen - 13.1M views/ +2533% MoM / +507% YoY 

BUZZING BRANDS

1 - COSRX 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum 

This multi-peptide skin booster was originally launched in August 2023 but is gaining traction due to its alignment with the #skinflooding (265.9M views) trend. Formulated with 6 different Peptides, it targets fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, all while smoothing and firming the skin. The product has become a favorite among fans of the skinflooding technique - where products with diverse ingredients and delivery methods are layered to create a moisture sandwich. 

Skin Flooding - +2292% YoY

2 - I’m From - Rice Toner

The Rice Toner from I’m From has been instrumental in shaping the rice toner trend, which is seen as a key step to achieving #GlassSkin. Infused with skin-soothing rice extracts, the toner exfoliates, hydrates, brightens and refines the complexion, while forming a protective barrier to prevent water loss and improve radiance. 

#ricetoner - 93M views/ +2955% YoY

3 - Sknbody - Hair Identifier Spray

This novel product demonstrates the growing appetite for new innovations linked to cosmetic treatments. The spray simplifies dermaplaning by coloring the hairs on the face white, making them more visible for shaving. The product’s high visual appeal and strong before/after potential helped it create a buzz on the platform when influencers began testing the product in March. 

#sknbodysprayfcialhairshavekit - 159M views

The Cosmetics IC Take

We will be publishing a deep dive into the latest viral TikTok trends and weak signals in our upcoming Social Book 2024, dedicated to skincare and wellness. Sign up to our newsletter to be the first to hear when our new report drops. 

(Sources: Cosmetics IC - March 2024 / Spate NYC - US TikTok searches - MoM (March 2024 vs February 2024) & YoY (April 2023 to March 2024 vs from April 2022 to March 2023)