TikTok: February 2024 Trend Inspiration

Source : @runscay / @milkydew / @daniellemarcan

Every month the agency listens in to the beauty conversation on TikTok to uncover the emerging trends to inspire your next innovation.  In February, inspiration came from corporate beauties and porcelain dolls, as Gen Z’s fascination with role-playing through makeup continued to propel beauty in artistic new directions. 

1. Office siren makeup

In keeping with the proliferation of office-friendly looks at Fashion Week (blazer, pencil skirt, tailored shirt...) corporate looks are all over TikTok. Inspired by Bella Hadid’s nod to Y2K office attire, users are recreating the serious but sophisticated makeup style, accessorized by skinny-frame eyewear and clean hair pulled back into a neat bun or accessorized with sensible clips. The makeup is characterized by cool-toned eye shadow in grey/blue hues and discreet liner, a matte powdered complexion, and lightly glossed lips. 

Characteristics: corporate dress code/ metal-framed eyewear/ skinny eyebrows/ cool-tone eyeshadow/ matte complexion

Hashtags: #officesirenmakeup: 7,6M views / #sireneyes: 408M views

Videos: @zoekimkenealy / @lottiestarrs / @lenkalul/ / @runsca

2. Rhode lip case

Hailey Bieber’s Rhode has developed a new accessory: a specially molded phone case designed to hold one of the brand’s signature Peptide Lip Tints or Treatments. The ergonomic phone case (which also features tactile buttons and a cushioned grip for easier selfie-taking) doubles as travel-friendly storage for quick, on-the-go touch-ups. Bieber’s original Instagram post featuring the Tint holder has clocked over 2.1M likes, proving once again, the influencer’s ability to create viral content linked to product drops.  

Characteristics: portable / travel-friendly / time + space-saving / on-the-go touch-ups

Hashtags:  #rhodeskin: 9M views / #rhodeliptint: 4M views / #peptideliptreatment: 30,1M views 

Videos: @britishvogue / @biebervelli / @milkydew / @justin_haber 

3. Pearl skin

Following Pat McGrath's iconic makeup look for the Margiela Haute Couture SS24 show in January, TikTok’s obsession with ultra-radiant, almost wet-look skin continues to intensify. An Instagram Live tutorial where the MUA revealed how to recreate the hyper-real porcelain skin effect was watched by 17,000 viewers. Interpretations of McGrath’s surreal, doll-like complexions are given a more achievable twist on TikTok, with creators building on the K-beauty #GlassSkin trend to create super-radiant skin that errs just on the right side of surreal. Using serum foundations, soft pink blush and highlighters, the aim is to achieve an allover ultra-fresh skin look with a radiant, pearlized finish.  

Characteristics: wet-look fresh skin / super-radiance / pearlized highlighters / pink-coral blush /  MAC Hyper Real serum foundation

Hashtags: #pearlmakeup: 9,2M views / #dewymakeup: 106M views / #glassskin: 1,3B views / #glassskinmakeup: 63,7M views

Videos:@daniellemarcan  / @saraorrego__/ @maccosmeticsusa/ @sunyatoo/ @hayleybuix / @sadelm3

The Cosmetics IC Take

Gen Z’s fascination with character play continues to inspire new levels of creativity and artistry, as they demonstrate a keen ability to translate catwalk inspiration and abstract concepts into achievable everyday looks.

We explore the evolution of luxury gestures and the growing appetite for extravagance in our 2024 White Book: the Age of Thrill, which is available now. Contact the team today to get hold of your copy.

PARIS HAUTE COUTURE SS23: BEAUTY FOCUS

At the recent Paris Couture shows, trending hair and makeup looks were given sophisticated status. From grown-up Gothic Allure to a sumptuous twist on Clean Girl, discover Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation’s edit of the 5 key hair and beauty trends to watch:

#1 - Vanilla Girl 

Clean Girl continues to evolve into new territories of minimalism, and Couture week introduced the latest interpretation of the trend: Meet, Vanilla Girl. 

Source: Schiaparelli - Vogue Runway

The warmer, cosier sister of Clean Girl has been gaining momentum on TikTok, where #vanillagirlmakeup currently has 20.7M views.  As the name suggests, this is a more comfortable aesthetic, characterized by soft, buttery textures and neutral colours such as off-white, beige and cream. In Paris, Schiaparelli MUA Pat McGrath referenced the trend through candlelit skin, achieved using a soft matte base accented with a subtle rosy blush applied to the apples and up to the cheekbones. For the lips, a dewy pink balm completed the look. 

#2 - The Return of The Side Fringe 

In recent trend reports, CIC has tracked the growing influence of Kidult Beauty, as creators and consumers play with child-like aesthetics and references to create grown-up looks. This sense of childhood experimentalism seeped into Couture this season, where ultra-short and side-swept fringes evoked memories of self-inflicted home haircuts and early Noughties teen idols. 

Source visual: Armani Privé - Vogue Runway

At Viktor & Rolf, super-short fringes echoed the collection’s overarching Surrealist theme. Hair stylist Olivier Schawalder played with proportion with styles that featured short and blunt fringes paired with sleek, slightly bouffant ponytails.  On the front row at Schiaparelli, Kylie Jenner wore her bangs swept to the side and curved over one eye. 

#3 - Gothic Allure

The influence of Wednesday Addams is far-reaching and for Couture, MUAs put a sophisticated spin on the glam-goth aesthetic, demonstrating its potential to appeal beyond Wednesday’s core Gen Z audience. 

Source visual: Valentino - Julien Da Costa for Le Figaro

At Ronald van der Kemp, Marcello Costa referenced the classic goth aesthetic of matte white base and black lips but contemporized the look with bleached brows and a dramatic, smokey eye with shimmery red undertones. For Valentino, Pat McGrath looked to 80s Club Kids for inspiration with makeup looks that accentuated each model's individuality while playing to sub-culture themes. Many sported matte berry or black vinyl lips, heavily-lined eyes and a dramatic veil blush. 

#4 - ‘20s Redux

Source visual: Dior - ELLE

Serving up references to the iconic women of the 1920s, Dior’s show was rich with sophisticated hair and beauty notes. Guido Palau created hairstyles from the Joséphine Baker school of kiss curl artistry, creating immaculately sculpted looks with not a hair out of place. Short styles were centre-parted and sleeked down, or hair was braided and pulled back into low buns. Even baby hairs were neatly incorporated into each style.  

#5 - All that Brows 

Source visual: Mugler - Vogue Runway

Special attention was given to brows and lashes, as MUAs distorted conventions to play with colour and textural expectations. Echoing the social media trend for “Anti-It Girl” aesthetics, disappearing or bleached brows continue to trend strongly and were spotted at  Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexandre Vauthier and Valentino, among many others.  The blanked-out brow was often offset by juxtaposing, lash and eye looks. At Mugler, neon liner hovered just above the brow and was colour-matched with extra-long lashes. 

The CIC Take

TikTok’s influence is even being felt at Couture level. Key trends that have been buzzing on the platform are being reinterpreted with a luxury focus - from baby hair artistry to soft goth sophistication. Our latest trend report, Makeup Inspiration from the US: Beauty’s New Manifesto explores how TikTok is helping to change global beauty expectations. Discover the trends worth leaning into and the new territories to explore, by ordering your copy today.

Maison & Objet Paris 2023: Interior Inspirations

Photo by Cosmetics IC at M&O 2023 - “In the air” by Elizabeth Leriche

In the midst of this permacrisis, the latest edition of Maison & Object centered design that encourages consumers to refocus and reconnect. The imperative was to “Take Care”; take care of nature, yourself and each other, while also protecting culture, craft and heritage. 

In essence, this was a year for Slow Design, but out went the conventional minimalist aesthetics traditionally associated with the movement, and in came a bolder, more colorful expression of nature and artistry. It echoes the shift in Beauty, where consumer expectations for heightened creativity go hand-in-hand with expectations for care.

Cosmetics IC at M&O 2023 - “In the air” by Elizabeth Leriche

#1 - The Home Cocoon: claiming for soothing spaces
The pandemic forced a slower pace of life, demanding consumers spend more time in their homes or appreciating the simple pleasures of nature. The idea of finding comfort in these intimate cocoons remains an important driver for consumers, and for many designers provided a key source of inspiration.  

In this new era, calm isn’t always equivocal with minimalism but is associated with homely, colorful and multi-textured interiors. Sensorial color, hyper-tactile surfaces, juxtaposing patterns and references to the outdoors elicit feelings of warmth and comfort. 

Laura Gonzalez drew inspiration from the tales of the Arabian Nights and the evocative scenes at Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech to create her installation, The revelation came to me from the East. In partnership with Schumacher, Gonzalez created an opulent scenography rich with woven fabrics, carved wood, ceramics and glassware. A color palette of amber,  burnt orange, mahogany and terracotta were accented with pops of green and blue (in reference to Majorelle) to create an evocative mis-en-scene. 

#2  New Ancestral: learning from the Past

Artisanal (and community) preservation is aligned with sustainability, as designers embraced the wonder of ancient handcraft and environmental practices. Craftspeople move to the forefront of design and artful upcycling is celebrated as a desirable skill.

Maison Intègre is an interior design brand based in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso, where they create furniture and objects in bronze using the ancestral lost wax technique. Each piece is crafted by hand with recycled metal and is only produced in limited numbers.

Preserving the tradition of French craftsmanship, Galerie MAY produces exceptional furniture incorporating marquetry, lacquer and ceramics, with a decidedly contemporary flourish.

#3 - Regal Nature: praising the natural world

Nature has become the great unifier and healer in a period of upheaval and design is embracing the nature-trend aesthetic. Objects unveil figurations of nature elements putting the light on the animal and vegetal world. 

For the collaboration of Christian Lacroix and Vista Alegre, nature becomes a highly-decorative element to be treasured, reinforcing the precociousness of its vulnerability. Each piece in the collection of fine porcelain is inspired by the beauty and intricacy of nature; with names such as “butterfly parade” and “primavera”.

Home scent brand Erbolinea turns nature motifs into objects of luxury, topping glass reed diffusers with decorative ceramic pine cones and fruits, while Ateliers C&S Davoy places a menagerie of meticulously handmade 3D butterflies in an opulent gold frame. 

#4 - Raw Tactility: feeling through touching

Raw materials and rough, hand-thrown textures speak to the need for touch and sensorial interaction. Interiors dominated by a material palette consisting of wood, marble, travertine and clay, along with the colors of nature have a holistically soothing effect. 

Demand for these tactile materials and calming colors increased during the pandemic as consumers brought elements of wellness design into their homes. Now, designers are incorporating raw materials into ergonomic furniture concepts to create restful, cocooning interior elements. 

#5 - Playful Nostalgia: building a portal to Youth

In a state of permacrisis, playful design offers a safe space. A nostalgic vision that is connected to childhood memories, colors and motifs, emerges as a comforting form of escapism. Retreating into a child-like universe of no stress, no pressure, and no anxiety has become a form of self-soothing.

At Maison et Objet, the spirit of joyful exuberance was captured in the retrospective of Jean Charles de Castelbajac, where an edit of iconic interior pieces by the flamboyant designer confirmed the joy to be found in self-expression. While luxury fragrance brand Mr&Mrs* played with child-like references for their exclusive collection of products designed in collaboration with Guarda Annusa Godi.  

#6 – Awesome Color: designing Melanine decors

Striking color combinations and graphic arrangements are reminiscent of the Memphis Group, which is finding a new audience among Gen Z and Millennials looking to express artistic flair in the home environment. Brilliant simplicity and geometric shapes are emboldened with clashing hues of green, yellow, red, and blue… energy encapsulated by Ettore Sottsass’s iconic Carlton Shelves.

Avant-garde Belgian design collective valerie_objects showcased a collection of simple, geometric wall paintings surrounded by a halo of light from Tramonti Lighting, alongside chairs in paintbox brights by Swiss brand, SILENT. Inspired by various art movements in history, Futurismo presented fine porcelain tableware in vibrant, contrasting colors, and geometric shapes. 

#7  A Versatile Approach: betting on hybridity

With responsible consumption being a key theme at this year’s event, many brands took a versatile approach to design, showcasing products that can be used both inside and outdoors.  Just as we have seen the demand for hybrid and multifunctional beauty products surge, consumers will adopt this mindset across all of their purchase decisions as they seek more sustainable solutions. Increasingly hybrid lifestyles will call for adaptive and versatile interiors. 

The CIC Take:

Slow Living is evolving into Mindful Appreciation, as consumers keep the core principles of living consciously but add their own unique sense of joy and respect for artistry. 

For brands, this will translate into radical new methods of production that are ever more respectful of the environment, and considerate of the well-being of the planet and its inhabitants. Craftsmanship and expertise will be placed at the heart of the creative process. 

The message of Take Care echoes the core theme of our latest White Paper: The Age of Connection, where we highlight the need for Beauty brands to recognize the symbiotic relationship between people and planet. Drop us a line today to get hold of your copy.

The Age of Connection: 5 Predictions for 2023 and Beyond

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation presents 5 key predictions that will shape the Beauty industry in 2023 and beyond, as we look ahead with optimism, creativity and conviction. 

Through a period of polycrisis, consumers are discovering strengths that they never knew they had. They are more resilient, more adaptable and more connected than they ever realised.  And if recent global events have proven anything, it is that health, freedom, and the future of the planet are all deeply interwoven.  The success of one relies on the success of another. 

“Our future is symbiotic. And yet, the desire for individual recognition and expression remains a prescient driver.  As we move forward, consumers will continue to explore the special tension that exists between collective responsibility and personal growth, and between the quest for the optimised self and for globalised empathy,” explains Leila Rochet, Chief Innovation Officer, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. 

For a deep dive into 4 of these key trends, we hope you can join us at the next edition of MakeUp in Los Angeles, on February 16 & 17 2023. Leila Rochet will be hosting a series of Beauty Talks where she will be joined by industry insiders to explore many of the themes outlined below. See the trends illustrated through the latest products sourced from all over the globe at our Inspiration Bar.

Book your place here!

The predictions:

1. Eco-Collectivism: From Sustainability to Augmented Empathy

Armed with increased knowledge, consumers will drive brands even harder to alter their behaviours in order to recenter humanity, source with respect, honour community and support rigorous ethical practices. In 2023 brands must become empathetic ambassadors, and respond to a new generation of eco-socio intellectuals. 

Results from the 2022 UEBT Biodiversity Barometer demonstrate there is now a global consensus that while planetary health is a clear priority in the minds of consumers, so are issues surrounding workers' rights and equality. Sustainability issues are now rightly being understood in the context of wider geo-political events. Taking a strong stand on bio-diversity, French brand Eclo is a clean eco-native that only works with ingredients that are local to its Brittany HQ and which also help regenerate the soil and the seabed. 

Taking a collective responsibility approach, Indigenous-owned brands often balance respect for nature with individual growth. Operating within this type of intrinsically holistic value system The Yukon Soaps Company uses native, wild botanicals hand-picked by elders and local young people. The brand teaches harvesting practices that foster an emotional connection to the land. Through these shared experiences, the company triggers acts of healing within the Yukon community. 

2.  Artphoria: From Colour-Dosing to Creative-Finessing

Gen Z’s takeover of social media has created a space where niche is the norm, and micro-expressions are the new mainstream. This mindset shapes a new generation of beauty connoisseurs, who bring a fine art approach and an exacting attitude to the beauty sphere. As consumer confidence grows and their skills continue to develop thanks to the TikTok explosion, we see a growing desire to express individuality through exquisite artistry. 

Daring to be rare is something to be encouraged by brands, and those that speak to individuality and trigger creativity through wild innovation will gain traction. Pleasing is a brand that inspires consumers to master micro-artistry, coupled with an approach that is embracive of every identity. Its ultra-inclusive storytelling paves the way for a “Flat Age Society” where traditional age segmentation has diminishing influence. Pleasing also encapsulates another key element - escapism. 

3. Future ArchiTech: From Innovation Hunters to Progress Pioneers

The answer to tomorrow's challenges lies in adopting a science-first and solution-focused approach. This mindset is permeating the beauty sector, where radical innovation is welcomed by today’s logical and results-driven consumers. Younger generations are facing global challenges with a practical mindset, leaning into science and technology to forge world-changing solutions. STEM careers (science, technology, engineering and maths) are now the  #1 attraction for Gen Z, according to a recent study, with particular popularity among females and people of colour. 

Brands must embrace this appetite for innovation, leaning into other categories for inspiration to deliver game-changing solutions. Aeir is one such beauty brand that is using the latest technology to develop future-facing products. Combining their experiences at Tesla and the École Cantonale d’Art de Lausanne (ECAL), the brand founders have created a next-gen wellness fragrance that utilises NASA technology, zero extraction, bioengineering and generations-old craftsmanship.

Engineered nature will also propel the sustainability narrative in 2023, as more brands invest in bio-science innovation to deliver smart, and green, solutions. In 2022 we saw Ulé (France) and Monday Musem (South Korea) lead the way with the adoption of vertical farming techniques. At Ulé, experts create plant extracts cultivated in a vertical farm in the center of Paris, which allows the brand to harvest plants at their maximum potency, using the whole plant in the process. Monday Museum’s Pink Inspiration Cream Drop uses red clovers cultivated using smart farm technology that is said to save up to 70% energy.

4. The Optimised Self:  Exploring the Personal Ecosystem

We are entering an era of intimately adaptive beauty that responds to the individual or is tailored specifically for individual needs.  Deep care is delivered on both an emotional and physical level as personal healing becomes a priority. Science and technology are leveraged to understand and accentuate your individuality, with an emphasis on inner beauty rather than aesthetic transformations.

The continued fetishization of health and immunity will drive the creation of unexpected territories, ushering in new opportunities for beauty supplements, skin-optimising trackers, AI-aided personalization, and at-home beauty devices that deliver ultra-bespoke and professional results. In fact, consumer interest in beauty tech is set to continue to increase continuously over the next five years, reaching $8.93 billion by 2026.

With personal growth and self-improvement becoming central drivers, brands are expanding the opportunities for health and well-being optimization. Homecare brand byMATTER has added a bio-active bedding collection to its range of cleaning products, which is designed to optimise skin health. Pillowcases made from Seawell, an innovative material formulated with seaweed and enriched with collagen, facilitate an exchange of amino acids, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants between fabric and skin while users are asleep.

Providing a wellness wearable that restores inner balance, Lokai is a holistic bracelet infused with white beads that contain Himalayan water (a ‘high’ ingredient) and black beads containing clay sourced from the Dead Sea (a ‘low’ ingredient). The idea is that the secret ingredients will keep wearers hopeful and humble, accordingly. 

5. The Emotional Biome: From Self-Care to Mind-Care 

In a world that is perceived as super fragile, there is a heightened focus on mental wellness, brain care and psychological healing. Beauty that delivers emotional benefits on top of functional benefits will gain traction, as consumers look to balance feelings of vulnerability with products and experiences that simultaneously provide care and protection.

Consumers will also use beauty as a means of expressing their innermost feelings, as they re-focus on personal growth and inner tranquillity. The role of functional fragrances will become heightened, as consumers and brands explore the idea that perfume can deliver benefits that go way beyond scent.  This is an idea explored by American light artist  James Turrell who has developed a collection of crystal light panels and perfumes for Lalique, which play on the abstract concept of the light we see in our dreams. Turrell brings this ethereal quality to life in the form of tangible colour but also in the form of an abstract emotion, pushing “beyond what we think we know”.

Beauty imbued with cerebral and cognitive influence will play to the growing brain care category. Brain health supplements are forecast to grow at a CAGR of 8.3% from 2022 to 2030, as consumers explore new routes to optimise mind-care.

(Image: Anna Shvets via Pixels)

SOCIETAL WELLNESS - REDEFINING BEAUTY

Photo: David Suarez via Unsplash

Driven by the idea of collective responsibility, consumers are redefining the concept of care, moving the emphasis away from the self and onto their community. Brands are being challenged to follow where sentiment is leading, and more than ever before, beauty in the US is being seen as a rallying voice for change.

In our latest report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, we explore the trend for Societal Wellness, where values-driven consumers are challenging brands to take a stand on the big issues and address beauty’s developing role as a therapeutic medium.

As the US grapples with a mental health crisis (10.6% of young people in the US identify as having severe depression, with multiracial youth at the most risk) and growing division over reproduction rights, now is not the time for brands to stay silent. Brands that fail to stand up and be counted may lose the support of their core consumerbase - one in four Gen Z will not spend with a brand that does not take a stance on the big issues. Intrinsic values trump external validation for this powerful cohort.

Below is a taster from our latest report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, where we explore the trend for Societal Wellness through three distinct pathways: 

• SOUL-CARE - BEYOND WELLNESS

In the grip of a mental health crisis, consumers are seeking solutions that lie outside of conventional thinking and practices. This creates an interesting opportunity for beauty brands, particularly as consumers become more open to alternative treatments that allow them to access deeper emotional healing. Brands are exploring the universes that exist around spiritual wellness, medicinal psychedelics and ritualistic healing in order to engage consumers with the pursuit of a deeper wellness that goes beyond the surface.

• ACCESSIBILITY ENHANCED - BEAUTY FOR ALL

As consumers propel the momentum around social awareness, Pride celebrations and Black History Month are growing in significance as opportunities to bring attention to the contributions, and struggles, of marginalized people. In this context, consumers are challenging brands to deliver on their diversity best practices, and move forward with BIPOC and LGBTQIA+ talent at the fore. NPD reports that in the 12 months ending in February 2022, Black-founded beauty sales increased by 45%, while the rest of the market grew by 30%. 

• POLITIBEAUTY - BRANDS FOR CHANGE

As we live through a period marred by huge civil unrest and global crisis, brands are realizing that they need to be vocal in order to connect with today’s politicized consumers. In the wake of the Supreme Court’s decision to overturn Roe Vs Wade, many key beauty brands have taken a bold stance on abortion rights and issues around women’s equality. The pro-choice message chimes with the overwhelming backlash to the verdict amongst Gen Z . Since the decision was made, well over 100 beauty and wellness brands have joined the Don’t Ban Equality coalition to protect access to reproductive healthcare. 

A full copy of the report, Redefining Beauty: Makeup Inspiration from the US, is available to purchase now. Drop us a line for more details, and discover an in-depth analysis of the US makeup sector through six emerging universes and 18 pathways to innovation.

A SNAPSHOT OF FRENCH AND AMERICAN TRENDS - FOCUS ON COLOR

Photo: Chandri Anggara from Unsplash

As part of our ongoing partnership with intelligence platform, Spate, we dive into the data behind their latest consumer report and decode what it means for the French and US beauty sectors.  

“Spate’s rich data analysis brings deeper insight to our understanding of these distinct markets,”  explains Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation. “We are able to leverage Spate’s search analysis data to confirm our prospective vision. It also helps us to better understand nuanced cultural differences and consumer behaviours.”

Spate’s latest report reveals the behavioural specificities emerging from each market. Here are our three major takeaways from the July 2022 France & America: Hair & Makeup Trends Report:

• The rise of warm red tones for hair color

In both countries, warm red tones dominate search volume changes. In France, searches for ginger hair are +2.0K; burgundy +1.3K; auburn +1K; and copper +700.  While red is the warmest color for French consumers, rising interest in babylights (+1.1K) also suggests a desire for subtlety. Likewise, in the US, red hair is the most searched for hair color with a volume increase of +213.4K, with copper (+36.2K), auburn (+35.8K), ginger (+32.3K) and red highlights (+29.0K) also all featuring in the top ten.  

Across both countries consumers are using more nuanced search descriptors to find their desired hair shade, often searching for various colors alongside red hair, demonstrating a growing desire for tonal color with dimension and depth - as well as suggesting a desire for individuality.

As we noted from Spate’s previous report on the US/France skincare market, French consumers lean into the classics - and the hair color category is no exception, with L’Oreal holding out as the most searched-for brand. However, US consumers appear to be more open to challenger brands, such as overtone  (+1.4K), adore hair colour (+350) and creme of nature (+260), which top out as the brands with the greatest search volume increase YoY. 

• Lipstick at the centre of interest

Lipsticks score high by search volume increase in both countries (+14% in France, +37,5% in the US). It is therefore not surprising that lipstick sales have seen a + 28% rise in Q2 -2022 in the US according to NPD. 

Long-wear and glossy are at the top of the list for French consumers (+1.7K and +1.1K respectively), while shine (+35.2K) and lasting (+16.1K) score highest for the US. 

Interestingly for a country so defined by its love of the classics, magic/colour-changing lipstick is a rising category for French consumers, breaking into the top three most-searched-for benefits with an increase of +770 YoY. 

• Eyeliners shift from classic to contemporary

Searches for eyeliner are at +8.9% in France and +11% in the US. While white and brown eyeliner are owning overall search volume in both territories, blue eyeliner is also increasingly growing on the consumer radar (+230 in France and +19.1K in the US). Green is also breaking through in the US at +12.5K, with classic black dropping into third place for both countries. 

The CIC Take 

French consumers are slowly shifting away from the classics, and are exhibiting growing interest in on-trend, contemporary colors and formulations. The uptick in searches for more niche lipstick benefits (such as ‘color-changing’, ‘waterproof’ and ‘sheer’) present opportunities for brands to inspire with innovative new concepts.  What is emerging is a shift towards greater expressions of individuality, which is apparent in growing searches for nuanced hair colors and bolder eyeliners. 

Download the full report here.

What’s Next

The agency will explore this opportunity in detail at the upcoming MakeUp in New York event, where Leila will be joined by Olivier Zimmer and Addison Cain of Spate to discuss the major global drivers fuelling the appetite for pleasure and individual expression. In the second of four Beauty Talks hosted by the agency at Makeup in New York, Leila, Olivier and Addison will deep dive into Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure, leveraging the most recent Spate consumer data insights, based on the analysis of online search data from the US, France and the UK.

Meet the team at the MakeUp in New York, September 14 & 15, 2022 at River Pavilion - Javits Center, New York

Beauty Talk #2 - Joy-Care – Beauty in the Name of Pleasure

September 14, 3:30 pm – 4:15 pm at the Beauty Agora

DISRUPTION FOR THE FUTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY

photo: Maksim Gonchareno - Pexels

We’ve reached the climate crisis point, and as business leaders grapple with the challenges of sustainable sourcing and production, it’s clear that we are about to enter a period of disruption.

Sustainability First

New research from Bain & Company outlines the unsustainability of our current rate of consumption - we are using the equivalent of 1.75 times the earth’s natural resources every year. Businesses are now putting the principles of the circular economy into action as they try to get a handle on this crisis. And those in charge are full of positive intentions - the supply chain executives interviewed by Bain and Company say they are planning to double the share of the revenue from circular products and services by 2030.

They must follow the example of indie disruptors by examining how circular sourcing and production can actually spur growth and ultimately reduce costs; convert waste into assets, invest in biotech, look at ways of reducing and recycling carbon, and develop packaging with a continuous lifecycle.

Learning from Beauty

In the Beauty industry, we have seen how circular innovation has been pivotal to the success of insurgent brands, such as Plus Body Wash and its dissolvable sachets; Noble Panacea’s refill keepsakes, and the lab-grown actives that power Biossance products. Transitioning to a circular business model is now key to survival, as consumers demand accountability and action.

In our latest skincare report - The New State of Being - we highlight the key prospective theme of Empathy Awakened, through which we explore three pathways to a more sustainable and equitable future.

US X FR: Lip and Eye Product Trends

Photo Credit - Dominik Kielbasa via Unsplash

At the recent MakeUp in Paris event, Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, was joined by Spate’s Analytical Lead, Julien Lutz, to decode the latest search data coming out of the US and France. Based on analysis of over 20 billion beauty-related search signals, Spate, the agency’s Partner Agency, decipher the rising trends and consumer behaviors emerging from the two Beauty powerhouses. 

Read on to discover the major differences between US and French consumers when it comes to searches for lip and eye makeup products.

EYE MAKEUP - CREATIVITY ON THE RISE

Photo: Essence - Facebook

In the US, products with a creative arc are coming out on top; with artistic eyeliner and eyeshadow experiencing a search volume of +1.2M. In comparison, French consumers are engaging with trends that focus on making the lashes pop; searches for fake eyelashes are at 291.2K, mascara at 103.8K and eyeliner at 9.8K.  Products that define and enhance the eye and lashes dominate the French top ten, and include eyebrow tint (47.9K), eyelash glue (23.4K) and eyebrow definer (15.1K). 

However, data shows that French consumers have a growing interest in creative eye looks; eye glitter is the top growing makeup product (+57.7%), followed by liquid eyeliner (+36.2%). ‘Waterproof’ is a trending category in both the US and France, where searches for waterproof eyeliner are at 29.7%, and US consumer searches for waterproof eyeshadow are +658.9%. Also breaking through in the US are searches for eye gloss at +120.4% and eyebrow stencil at +115.9%.

Creative expression continues to dominate US tastes when it comes to eye color too; silver (+91.8%), taupe (+72.8%) and coral (+70.6%) are the top trending colors, while French consumers are more interested in the classics, with white (+20.7%), brown (+14.8%) and plum (+5.7%) making the top three.  The top trending eye makeup products coming out of the US are Urban Decay’s Naked Eyeshadow Palette with +66.9K average monthly searches, followed by GrandeLASH MD Lash Enhancing Serum (+36K) and NYX’s Micro Brow Pencil(+12.4K). In France, as socialization returns, consumers are searching for longwear and waterproof eye products; Essence Mascara (+2.1K), Maybelline Great Lash Waterproof Mascara (+488) and MAC Cosmetics Brushstroke 24-HR Liner (+301) are the top trending eye makeup products.

LIP MAKEUP - RED, LIP ENHANCEMENT & COLOR

Clinique - Almost Lipstick Black Honey - Source Facebook

US and French consumers are aligned in their love for lipstick, especially red lipstick. US consumer searches for red lipstick are at 77.9K, while in France it is the second most-searched-for lip product overall, with a search volume of 59.3K.  Search analysis shows French consumer interest in lip enhancing products - lip plumping gloss is the most-searched-for product at +108%, followed by lip plumper (+16.2%) and lip gloss (+0.3%). US search data highlights an interest in more creative lip play; searches for lip shimmer is at +461.9%, lipstick palette at +259% and sheer lipstick is at +183.8%.

The top lipstick colors by growth coming out of the US are plum (+306.8%), chocolate (+162.3%) and orange (+143%). The classics reign in France, with consumers increasingly searching for coral (+64.9%), maroon (+48.6%) and pink (+44.6%). Lip products with staying power are trending with US consumers; Clinique’s Pop Lip Color + Primer and Maybelline’s Super Stay Matte Ink Liquid Lipstick are at +47.k and 14.22K average monthly searches, respectively. The top trending product by search growth in the US is Clinique’s Almost Lipstick, at +245.9K average monthly searches.  The top trending lip makeup products amongst French consumers are NYX's Butter Gloss at +515, closely followed by Guerlain Lipstick at +513, and NYX’s Soft Matte Lip Cream at +319. 

CIC TAKE

• The US still leads the way for creative and audacious expressions, but France is rapidly following suit.

• With rising inflation, mass-market brands that demonstrate creativity and affordability will draw attention, and luxury brands will need to reinforce value-driven innovations to justify price.

• Expect an increasing thirst for creative independence in the future, with an impact on color, application and texture.

To download the full report from Spate, just click on the link.

Why the US is the land of luxury opportunity

Photo: Tanya Bernard

American consumers are in a flamboyant state of mind.  Since the pandemic, the US has made an impressive economic recovery, with Bloomberg confirming the country’s status as a global leader in luxury consumerism.  And according to Euromonitor’s Global Wealth and Luxury Report 2022, by 2030, the US will be home to the world’s largest population of high-net-worth individuals and ultra-high-net-worth individuals.

1- Revealing new luxuriant aspirations

Take inspiration from recent luxury launches, activations, and AW22 collections which capture the contemporary sophistication of the US luxurian.

Photo Credit: Oscar de la Renta / Tom Ford

• Overt Wealth: How do you show the world you’re a crypto-luxurian? A new limited-edition collaboration from Fendi and global digital asset management platform Ledger, has resulted in a collection of tech accessories designed to hold Ledger’s secure hardware crypto wallet. The collection was unveiled at Fendi’s Men’s AW22-23 fashion show on January 15.

• Day Luxe: For his AW22 collection, Tom Ford offset a monochrome color palette with sumptuous fabrications, that reinforced the desirability of the jewel box palette. Ford layered mono-colors to create depth and richness, bringing a heightened sophistication to daywear. 

• New Territories: Luxury brands are rediscovering the US and as the country gets wealthier, they are eyeing second - and even third-tier - cities as new retail hotspots. Prada is heading to Austin, Louis Vuitton will show its 2023 Cruise collection in La Jolla, California, and Kering has announced plans to expand its retail presence in Nashville and Atlanta.

2. Luxury’s new beauty codes

In our latest What’s Up US Makeup report, we highlight 10 of the latest trends for the US market, including the New Luxury Expression - a trend propelled by the buoyant US economy, ascending consumer optimism, a desire for higher sophistication, and to, quite frankly, look expensive.

The AW 22/23 catwalk season confirmed that sophistication is back. From haute hair styling to ultra-glam makeup, the luxury of freedom is being expressed through sophisticated new looks. And Americans are in the mood for a party - after months of restrictions, the return of socializing is a gift for those wanting to make a bold beauty statement.  In Beauty this manifests as a look that is equal parts Wall Street and 90s It Girl.

• Brown Brilliance: Intense chocolatey hues replace minimalist and neutral colors. Dark creamy lipsticks or coffee-and-cream nail polish are the new aesthetics to follow.

• Ultra-Comfort Matte: According to Spate, the number of searches using the term “Matte” has experienced +13,7% growth amounting to 762,4 K monthly searches. “Cream to Powder Foundation” was at +175,1% (Source: Spate NYC Tool - End March 2022 - Year Over Year).

• Monochromatic Statement: Color becomes a conduit for pleasure and self-expression, with vivid combinations and striking monochromes representing luxury’s new dynamism. Full-color looks make a bold statement, this is see-and-be-seen beauty that draws on layering mono-color to striking effect. 

This is an extract from our latest What’s Up US Beauty report for Spring 2022.

Our new What's Up report analyzes the latest evolution of the US Beauty market, decoding the societal changes and innovative paths of beauty brands, organized around ten inspirational trends.

Each trend is supported by examples of aspirational beauty archetypes, along with information on the new indie players, concepts and products that are changing the Beauty game. Every trend confirmation is backed by key data analysis provided by the Spate NYC Google search tool and Tribe Dynamics latest figures, allowing us to deliver you an even deeper level of actionable insight and market accuracy. 

Seventy pages, ten trends, unmissable insight.

contact us to ask for more information or for a quotation.

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Why brands should think more about adaptive Beauty

Photo: Ron Lash via Pexels

In a world where 15% of the population are living with some form of disability and the number of people aged over-60 is set to double by 2050, it is now critical for brands to consider Adaptive Beauty as part of their strategy.

Representing a quarter of the population in the United States, people with disabilities hold an estimated spending power of $490 billion, yet their needs continue to be overlooked by many brands. Forward-thinking companies are beginning to bring solutions with adaptive products, tools and packaging that allow those with particular needs to be part of the Beauty conversation - without any concessions or limitations. We are already seeing early signs of a new approach to Beauty taking shape, where holistic empathy for all humans and for the planet is driving new product innovation and creative expression. 

Beauty Brands can take inspiration from other industries, which are making accessibility a priority.

1. Innovation in adaptive fashion and sportswear

   In fashion, Tommy Hilfiger’s Spring 2021 Adaptive Collection was designed specifically for adults and children living with disabilities. Nike has created a handsfree sneaker in the Go FlyEase, which works due to the tensioner band and bi-stable hinge holding the shoe in a steady open position. While Gen Z brand Rebirth Garment tackles accessibility through a body non-conformist lens, creating bold wearables and accessories for people on the full spectrum of gender, size and ability. Similarly pitching at a younger demographic Intimately is a new, trend-led adaptive lingerie brand that designs for individuals with reduced hand dexterity and shoulder mobility. There is also an Intimately mobile app where members of the disabled community can connect with one another.

2. Facilitating in-store access

   Pantene have partnered with blind broadcaster and TikTokker Lucy Edwards for the launch of their new NaviLens codes on Pantene Miracles products and display shelving. NaviLens is like a next-generation QR code;. users download the NaviLens app to scan with their mobile camera to receive the distance to the product, along with the necessary information contextualized, in this instance product information including descriptions of the bottle shapes.

   A Starbucks store located inside the Seoul National University Dental Hospital sets the tone for what truly adaptive retail can look like. The entire store, including back-of-house, is fully wheelchair accessible, and all staff are trained in basic Korean Sign Language. Other features include contactless speech-to-text voice recognition through a tablet, a Braille menu, and digital signage which lets customers track the progress of their order.

   Amplifying its commitment to size and skin tone inclusivity, Savage x Fenty’s new Las Vegas flagship leverages tech to create a more inclusive and safer shopping environment. The store features Fit:Match AI technology, using an iPhone to scan a shopper’s body dimensions in a matter of seconds. The app then provides product recommendations based on the user’s size and shape, allowing them to purchase without having to try on in-store.

3. Adaptive Beauty underway

   In Beauty, inclusivity and accessibility are also moving beyond the issue of skin color. Kohl Kreatives is a post-inclusive beauty brand specialising in tools supporting individuals with motor disabilities, transgender people and individuals going through, or recovering from, cancer treatment. The Flex Collection makeup brush set is tailored towards anyone with a motor disability or disease.

   Olay has developed the open-source and unpatented Easy Open Lid to widen the accessibility of the brand’s moisturiser products. The lid has winged sides and a raised top with added texture for grip, higher-contrast product labels and Braille text. The lid was developed in consultation with physical therapists, occupational therapists, and UX experts to improve usability for people with a wide range of dexterity issues. 

Adaptive Beauty is one of the trends we highlight in our latest USA Trend Report - The New State of Being. It is also one of the key highlights or our White Paper - The age of Fluidity - Trends 2022 and beyond.

Contact us for more information.

How South Korea is challenging male beauty norms

Credit : Instagram / @laka.official

It’s raining men’s products in Korea, as the country keeps its rank of the #1 male skincare market in the world, with a +80% increase since 2010. K-men are ambitious, sophisticated connoisseurs of Beauty, moving to high end skincare and surgery to look just as beautiful as women.

DRIVERS DEFYING SOCIAL NORMS

Inspired by K-pop and social medias, men in South Korea are reportedly spending more on skincare per person than men anywhere else in the world - defying heteronormative expectations in a society rather socially conservative. Millennial males drive Beauty sales, and South Korea accounts for about one-fifth of the global market for male cosmetics. According to Euromonitor, the market for men’s skincare increased in South Korea by 80% between 2010 and 2016, and men spend $26.90 per person per year on skincare products. In the Hyundai Department Store’s, male cosmetics purchases (per capita) rose from 68,000 won in 2015 to 85,000 won last year (source: DongA.com).

The Beauty influencer Joon-Peanut / courtesy of Joon-Peanut

Online, vloggers such as Kim Seoung-Hwan (@whanonline - 125K YouTube followers), Joon-Peanut (294K YouTube followers), LeoJ - @ LeoJ Makeup (250K YouTube followers), and- K-pop stars cover makeup and have become very first Korean beauty YouTubers to try genderless makeups.

”75% of South Korean males claim to do a beauty/grooming treatment at home once a week or more, compared with just 38% in France.” - explains Lia Neophytou (Consumer Analyst at GlobalData) adds that in a Forbes article.

FROM PROMOTING WOMEN TO SELLING TO MEN

Until now, men were used as models (especially K-Pop models) to promote women’s line. Now things are shifting as brands are launching male-targeted products specifically addressed to millennial men or genderfluid individuals.

”While in Japan, brands play on a certain neutrality, now there is a competition going on which is to be as beautiful as women. So men are moving to surgery. Men want to be beautiful to achieve good positions and to be as beautiful as the k-drama stars”, explained Florence Bernardin at the MakeUp in New York event. Famous brand, Tonymoly, even launched the Camo Cream, a 4 color camouflage compact marketed to military servicemen in South Korea.

The Camo Cream by Tonymoly / courtesy of the brand

PRETTY BOY

The new man openly grooms himself and doesn’t hesitate to share on social media. In skincare, Su:m 37 added a new line, Dear Homme, targeting a higher end consumer. The group LG, who also owns Belif, relaunched its men’s line, Manology, and reduced the number of all in one products from five to two to meet more sophisticated demands of consumers. Missha launched an all-in-one Essence Skin Care, which consists of four types of ampoules, water, cream, and toning to help men manage their skin according to their specific skin troubles.

Credits : courtesy of the brand

In makeup, LAKA became the first Gender Neutral Makeup line in Korea, that released 12 shades of sheer lipstick lines with videos to ease application. The colors are for both men and women, emphasizing that one can create their own image.

Credit : Instagram / @laka.official

Launched last summer in Korea, Boy de Chanel, represents the first international premium line to target male cosmetics. The line includes a matte moisturizing lip balm, a tinted fluid, and an eyebrow pencil, all in four different shades. Driven by Korea, men in China have also increased their beauty consumption. According to the China Industrial Information Network, 60% of Chinese urban men use cosmetics every day. The proportion of men buying cosmetics increased by 36% from the previous year and the ratio of men and women increased from 6 to 4 (Source CosKorea.com).

Credits : ze-mag

Twice a year, the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency edits its What’s Up Seoul, a condensed trend report dedicated to the hottest trend in K-Beauty. For more information, contact us.

RAISING THE BAR OF CLEAN BEAUTY

Photo Credits: Airony Haut / Unsplash

Much like clean eating, clean beauty has recently taken the industry by storm. Yet, as the wellness movement continues to influence industry, more and more clean beauty products are being dropped into a market where there are no recognized clean-certified labels.

Initially driven by safety concerns, the clean beauty movement originally focused on what was NOT in a product, rather than what was. Today, as consumers want more, clean beauty is taking a new turn. From niche to mainstream, new clean products are not just “safe”; they are becoming increasingly sensorial and luxurious.

WHEN FEAR TURNS TO LOVE

Like many beauty trends, it all started with food. The #cleaneating hashtag has garnered over 42 million mentions on Instagram, to the point where it has its very own eating disorder, orthorexia.

Like many wellness trends (from organic to cruelty-free and green), a blend of fear and love has driven this new clean beauty movement, as much like food, cosmetics are meant to be both indulgent, but safe for consumers. Worn close to the body and against the skin, beauty products have always symbolized a soulful sense of love, self-care and intimacy.

In contrast, fear has been fueled by the opaque nature of beauty industry messaging, especially when it comes to ingredients, how products are made and the fear consumers have that they are simply being marketed to. . Knowing what’s in their product and learning how to read a label has become a top priority for consumers who are now buying with a digital driven mindset. According to a survey by Label Insight, 46% of consumers admit to using a smartphone to research product information in-store, with as many as 56% of Millennials admitting to doing so. With the arrival of Gen Z in the marketplace, future waves of consumers are more likely to be receptive to a clean approach to Beauty.

Photo - Lawrson Pinson / Unsplash

They are also less likely to respond to greenwashing, thanks to self-empowering digital tools and a new access to information. Especially given the rise in availability of label deciphering apps for smartphones such as Clean Beauty, Yuka, 화해(Hwahae), Inci Beauty, Pharmapocket, CosmEthics, Healthy Living or Beat the Microbead, all designed to break down what products actually contain.

So, according to the apps what are the clean rules?

Here is the thing: “clean” is more about what isn’t in the product rather than what is. Think: a policy of including “no nasties”, or in other words, beauty enemies including chemicals and artificial ingredients. Just like new French Beauty brand Seasonly puts it in its motto “the skin you want, minus the ingredients you might not.”

THE BEAUTY BRANDS DEFINING CLEAN BEAUTY

While some ingredients are banned for use in beauty products (more so in Europe than in the US), the legal definition of clean is still very much up for debate. All the same, clean usually means that a product is made in a safe lab using non-toxic ingredients, is made mindfully, free from synthetic materials and has been enriched with specially sourced ingredients. This is where indie brands thrive, as by virtue of having a small staff who can produce small batches, they are more likely to be perceived as clean beauty labels.

For clean brands, giving their own precise definition of what they consider to be “Clean Beauty” is key in their manifesto. Goop, one of the leaders in the clean movement writes:

“At Goop, we are creating a new standard of beauty. Clean, for us, is quite intense: It means a non-toxic product that is made without a long, ever-evolving list of ingredients linked to harmful health effects from hormone disruption, to cancer, to plain-old skin irritation. To name just a few: parabens, phthalates, PEGs, ethanolamines, chemical sunscreens, synthetic fragrance, BHT, BHA. “

Credit: courtesy of Goop

Tata Harper, one of the founding mother of the trend back in 2010, takes non-toxicity and traçeability to heart. “Every single product we make is a Complex Formula. We pack the most ingredients at the highest levels of concentration to deliver maximum results—without a single drop of artificial chemicals.” As such, the brand declares all of its products to be free from GMO, toxins, fillers, artificial colors, artificial fragrances and synthetic chemicals. Today, the Tata Harper brand is recognized as one of the most successful premium clean brands, boasting sales approaching $68 million dollars (source: WWD).

Photo credits: @_seasonly

FROM CLEAN RETAILERS TO MAINSTREAM RETAILERS’ SHIFT TO CLEAN

In the US, The Detox Market is a pioneer within the clean movement and a major actor in all things green beauty. Its focus has always been discovering and incubating new brands, and in showcasing brand founders’ stories that reflect a passion for non-toxic beauty choices. The retailer took a “safety pledge” promising to only sell products that are free from the banned ingredients featured on a comprehensive, continuously updated list that includes most parabens, synthetic fragrances, PEGS and petrochemicals -- among others.

Credo, the other big player in the Clean Beauty game, first started in 2015 in San Francisco and now boasts more than 8 shops and shops/spa across the US. The retailer displays a “dirty list” of toxic ingredients on its website, including aluminium powder, EDTA, petrolatum, paraffin, phthalates, colorants, glycols, lanolin, keratin etc.

Another shining example, the new kid on the Manhattan block, is Follain, a company which cultivates deep relationships with women, offers customers package-free options (such as refillable soaps) and a slew of clean alternatives via niche brands including French Girl, Osea, Rahua, Pai and Tata Harper. The retailer even goes as far as to claim that “less than 20% of cosmetics ingredients have been tested for safety”, with an impressive list of restricted ingredients.

Mainstream retailers in the US have also joined the clean beauty movement via initiatives such as the “Clean at Sephora” label. With this label, the retail giant promises to curate “clean stuff only”, under the motto “the beauty you want, minus the ingredients you might not.” This applies to products free from sulfates, SLS and SLES, parabens, formaldehyde, mineral oils, retinyl palmitate, oxybenzone, coal tar, hydroquinone, triclosan, and triclocarban. They also pledge that products will contain less than one percent synthetic fragrance. 

Photo credits: @thedetoxmarket

While Clean beauty is becoming mainstream in the USA, Europe and Asia trends are more towards “natural beauty” and “green beauty”.

 In France, le Printemps Department store just opened a « Green Market », a beauty corner dedicated to natural and sustainable beauty. In Japan, Cosme-Kitchen has become the "Natural & Organic” retailer with several point of sales featuring Japanese and international beauty brands.  

In a nutshell, the emergence of Green Beauty is worldwide, becoming more premiumized, and is the beginning of a mainstream movement that will impact the future of beauty: a safe, reassuring yet highly sensorial new chapter of Clean Beauty is underway.

Want to know more about clean beauty? Not only has The Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency just released a new Skincare Edition of its US trend report, but it will be hosting the "Rise of the Natural & Clean Movement" roundtable discussion at the upcoming Makeup In L.A. conference. For a copy of Beauty Focus on Clean Beauty, prices and conditions, feel free to contact the agency.