MEET THE FOUNDER: DANESSA MYRICKS TALKS ARTISTRY AND INCLUSION

At MakeUp in New York 2024, our Chief Inspiration Officer Leila Rochet sat down for an exclusive conversation with acclaimed beauty brand CEO and Founder, Danessa Myricks. 

Renowned for its artistry, innovation, and comprehensive approach to inclusivity, Danessa Myricks Beauty has quickly gained recognition from global beauty fans. Rooted in creativity, the brand champions individuality and self-expression, chiming with the values of today’s Gen Z.

For these hedonistic beauty fans, makeup is integral to a new treat-based culture. The boom in concert makeup, couture-inspired makeovers, and character-driven narratives on social media, signals a new era of creativity as pleasure becomes a key driver for thrill-seeking consumers. This culture shift is enticing consumers to experiment with bold looks, explore new personas, and indulge in lavish artistry.

Discussing the trend for self-treating as a polycrisis coping mechanism, Leila and Danessa explored the imperative for joy in makeup and the rising call for sensory considerations when it comes to NPD. 

“Danessa’s infectious passion for beauty and her intuitive understanding of the transformative power of makeup resonate deeply with today’s consumers. Her autodidactic approach has given her a unique perspective, allowing her to create products that are intimately attuned to the needs and desires of real people, regardless of their gender, age, or skin story. In Danessa’s world, makeup is not a mask but a tool of empowerment – an opportunity to celebrate one’s individuality and unleash creativity.”
— Leila Rochet, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation

Leila: Could you start by telling us a bit about your journey into this industry? 

Danessa: I’m an accidental makeup artist, an accidental brand founder, and even an accidental photographer. I was simply living my life and adapting as things happened. At 30, I was a displaced worker; the company I worked for shut down. As a single mother with a newborn and a 7-year-old, I had to rethink my life. I was working at a publishing company that produced beauty magazines. The lives of the makeup artists and photographers there seemed exciting, while my job was just to feed my kids—nothing that sparked inspiration. My relationship with beauty was complicated; the industry wasn’t welcoming for someone like me. But seeing the artists in that space made me want to be creative. I decided to teach myself makeup in my basement. I worked for free for about a year, then landed my first commercial job, and the rest just unfolded from there. It’s been about saying “yes” to opportunities and having the courage to step into them.

Leila: What were the biggest challenges you faced as a self-taught artist? I imagine it wasn’t easy reaching the success you enjoy today.

Danessa: Oh, definitely not easy. The biggest challenge was my lack of knowledge. I was figuring things out as I went. But, honestly, I’m grateful for that ignorance because it allowed me to carve a different path without being told what was “possible” or “impossible.” I learned by dreaming and experimenting, and I had to overcome fear at every stage. Even now, every day feels challenging and a bit scary, but I keep moving forward with courage.

Leila: What was the social and political backdrop like at the time you started? Did it influence your vision?

Danessa: Absolutely. My brand is very personal; it’s a reflection of my story and the stories of the people I encounter. It’s deeply connected to the social and political climate. I create with a focus on solving problems people face and addressing what they feel is missing. So, yes, the backdrop has always influenced my brand’s vision.

“My inspiration comes from those who came before me—like my parents, whose struggles were far greater than mine. I feel a responsibility to keep going and make space for others who look like me. Every success, every “yes” I achieve, creates room for someone else to thrive in this industry”
— Danessa Myricks, MakeUp in New York 2024

Leila: Your brand is recognized for its inclusivity and versatility. How do you ensure that your products cater to such a diverse range of skin tones and types?

Danessa: My brand is about people’s stories. It’s about creating a space where everyone feels seen and represented. When I think about developing a product, I literally close my eyes and think about all types of people. My team represents the world, and we’re constantly listening to customers’ stories. The challenge has been finding partners who share our commitment to inclusivity, especially since some formulations are not designed to work across all skin tones. For example, certain base formulas are pure white, which can look great on lighter skin but doesn’t work for everyone. So, we’ve had to search for partners who understand our goal to create for everyone.

Leila: Makeup has become a form of self-expression, especially with “treat culture” gaining popularity. Consumers now see beauty as a source of creativity and comfort. How does that influence your brand’s vision?

Danessa: It’s everything. Makeup is about problem-solving, but it’s also about joy. I remember my mom introducing me to blue eyeliner, which made my eyes pop. Makeup has this incredible ability to make people feel something. So, when we develop products, we focus on how it affects all the senses. The goal is to bring joy inside and out. It’s not just about confidence; it’s about amplifying who you believe you are.

Leila: Speaking of product development, can you share some insights into your innovation process? How do you come up with new ideas, like the latest palette?

Danessa: We dream big. Our development process starts with what we call “DREAM”—D is for “Dreaming”, R is for “Reimagining”, E is for “Ease of Use”, A is for “Accessibility”, and M is for “Magic”. We create with everyone in mind. Each product is designed by dreaming and reimagining, and we focus on accessibility to make sure it’s available to everyone. It’s about creating things that didn’t exist before and approaching them from a new perspective.

Leila: That’s inspiring! Let’s talk about the future. What’s next for Danessa Myricks Beauty?

Danessa: Oh, I have big plans! We’re reimagining what skincare and makeup could be. Could they be one and the same? Do routines need to stay as they are? I want to explore new ways for people to experience skin and complexion products.

KEY STATS - DANESSA MYRICKS BEAUTY

  • +61.5% increase year-over-year in TikTok searches (1)

  • +25.9% increase year-over-year in UK Google searches (2)

  • #38 ranking in EMV, representing a +56%  year-over-year increase (3)

Sources: (1) Spate NY Tool - US TIkTok views - from Sep 10, 2023 to Sep 8, 2024 vs. Sep 11, 2022 to Sep 10, 2023

(2) Spate NY Tool - US Google searches - from Sep 2023 to Aug 2024 vs. Sep 2022 to Aug 2023

(3) Tribe Dynamics - Jan 2024-Aug 2024

THE CIC TAKE 

Our What’s Up #21 report (out now) explores the rise of feel-good makeup and the desire for beauty that brings glimmers of joy to the daily routine. The surging popularity of Danessa Myricks Beauty demonstrates the necessity for brands to expand access to artistry to all consumers, as self-celebration becomes a key driver for Gen Z consumers. Contact the team today for more information.

EXTRA-VAGANCE: BRINGING THE EXTRA-ORDINARY INTO THE EVERYday, MAKEUP IN LOS ANGELES 2024

As TikTok’s influence over beauty continues to ascend, luxury brands are adapting viral trends to their house codes, while enshrining the levels of exclusivity and innovation that set them apart. Joining Leïla Rochet to decode the evolution of luxury beauty was Eileen Kim, Head of US Innovation and Research at Chanel for one of Cosmetics IC Beauty Talks hosted in MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024.

Source: Leila Rochet / Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation - MakeUp In Los Angeles 2024 / Eileen Kim

Thanks to their worldwide innovation centers, Chanel's scientific team is challenged to push back its limits and seek to develop new technologies and innovations. Motivated by the different regulations on which they depend in the creation and formulation of their products, particularly in terms of sustainability, but also by the needs and ideas of new generations, Chanel is keen to push their research to an even higher level and believes in the continuous drive to do better.

Leïla Rochet: Can you explain a little bit more about your role at Chanel?

Eileen Kim: Chanel has innovation centers across the world. I have the pleasure of leading the US Innovation and Research Center. Our mission overall is to seek out new technologies and to also push innovation for future skincare and makeup products, worldwide. We also partner with universities, startups, and industry experts, who can help us to seek out new technologies.

Leïla: Chanel is known for its unique texture, exceptional formulation, and very high-quality finish. What are the primary challenges when it comes to reaching those performance levels?

Eileen: We have regulations now that impact the products we create, and the ingredients that we use. This helps us to find new solutions. Another wonderful challenge is the new generation of consumers and their ideas. It’s so important for us to empathize with them, to understand their needs, their values, and what influences what they're going to buy and how they're going to use it. And of course, we have sustainability and CSR - that's a wonderful challenge that is at the heart of innovation today.

Leïla: Could you talk a little about one of your most recent product launches?

Eileen: The 31 launch is a beautiful example because it captures the essence of Chanel. The product packaging was inspired by the iconic staircase at 31 rue Cambon, while the refillable case is a new innovation. The formula itself has been carefully designed with different ingredients, including Gardenia oil that is specific to Chanel, and an active that brings skincare benefits to the lips. The beautiful packaging is a part of Chanel that you can keep, and pass down. It's a really nice example of innovation, legacy, and creation.

Leïla: How do you keep up with the trends and stay ahead of the latest innovations?

Eileen: That's a big challenge! We have a team of scientists who are experts in chemistry, and they go out and seek new technology and envision what this technology can bring. It’s important that we not only look at the beauty industry but at pharma, food, and agriculture… Inspiration can come from anywhere.

Leïla: How do you envision the future? You’ve talked about naturals and sustainability - how do you see that market evolving?

Eileen: I think sustainability regulations are having a really positive impact on our industry. We have to find advanced solutions to create the next generation of products, so sustainability and CSR are really pushing innovation forward. This is causing scientists like us to find new solutions that will be more efficient, better for the environment, better for people. I feel regulations will bring our products to a new level, and we can be proud of that.

We see lots of AI tools. I hope it will advance how we work, how we discover. And then there’s Gen Z and Gen Alpha. I think they're a very interesting generation, and luxury will be a way for them to self-express. I think what the beauty industry has always been, is purposeful. I'm really happy that I am part of that and I'm looking forward to seeing where it goes in the future.



KEY TAKEAWAYS

  • TikTok should be a core element of your brand strategy as a source of inspiration for future innovation, and increasingly as a retail outlet

  • Authenticity is key when it comes to social media virality and meaningful engagement

  • Social media users are interested in products and brands linked to luxury moments, events, and experiences (concerts, red carpets, etc)

  • Gen Z are ingenious at finding ways to feed their appetite for luxury on a budget (e.g., dupes and ‘repotting’ into luxury brand packaging)

  • Explore ways of introducing novel luxury gestures into consumers lives - from keepsake packaging to extravagant new applications (e.g., teeth gems, hair makeup)

Beauty Soundbites: Higher Futures, MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024

For MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024, Cosmetics IC hosted a series of four Beauty Talks to highlight the agency’s predictions for the year ahead. We will be highlighting the key talking points from some of our sessions and sharing a snapshot of the interviews that took place with a panel of top industry players, here on the Cosmetic Seeds blog. A full summary of all four talks, including in-depth interviews, key products and takeaways, is available now.

Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation - Leila Rochet / Capsum - Sébastien Bardon / Haus Labs by Lady Gaga - Gloria Ryu

The Beauty Talk: Higher Futures - The transformative impact of a science-centric approach to beauty

Exploring the axis of artistry and science, performance and sensation, Higher Futures represents the agency’s analysis of the transformative power of a science-centric approach to beauty. The arrival of new technologies presents brands with bold opportunities to innovate and meet the rising expectations for exceptional solutions and elevated experiences. 

“There is a growing demand for very emotionally compelling and liberating physical experiences. Consumers are looking for groundbreaking experiences, groundbreaking innovation, extraordinary performance levels. It is beyond what they were looking for in the past, especially in the performance arena, but also in sensoriality.”  Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, Cosmetics IC

This desire for elevated experiences has been building since COVID, and in today’s polycrisis era, it has become an even more essential facet of the beauty routine. Consumers’ need for enhanced performance inspired a refocus of Lady Gaga’s Haus Labs in 2020, as the brand switched to a science-led innovation strategy. Critically, Haus Lab’s shift also introduced a new level of sensoriality into the beauty experience. This is a key facet of the work of Capsum - a contract manufacturer that specializes in microfluidic encapsulation technology, which makes it possible to assemble ingredients in a radically new way, controlling stability and heightening the sensory effect.  Joining Leila to discuss how a science-centric approach is transforming the world of beauty was Sebastien Bardon, CEO and co-founder of Capsum and Gloria Ryu, Chief Product Officer at Haus Labs By Lady Gaga.

Read on for a snapshot of Leila’s wide-ranging interview with Sebastien and Gloria from February 2024:

Leïla Rochet: Gloria, can you tell us about the decision to relaunch Haus Labs with a scientific approach?

Gloria Ryu: Our patented Fermented Arnica was born while experimenting with one of our R&D partners. Sarah Tanno, who is our Global Artistry Director, Lady Gaga, and the rest of the team were in the lab brainstorming on what we could do from a material perspective, and how to build products from the inside out - very much starting from the raw material phase. With our foundation, it's been marketed that we spent 10,000 hours in the lab, developing that product, an insane number of hours! It's very interesting because our pillars are artistry, science, and inclusivity and for us, it's about the intersection of those three. 

Leïla: Sébastien, you introduced microfluidic technology to the Beauty industry. Can you explain what that is?

Sébastien Bardon: When you develop custom products you use between 10 and 50 ingredients, and as you do in your kitchen, you mix them all together, right? But what we do is that we separate them into different phases, which can be up to five different phases, and then we produce the product one drop at a time. So we're making millimeter-sized drops of oil, containing the perfume and actives, that are going to be dropped into the hydrophilic formula. 

The reason we decided to apply microfluidics to Beauty is because you can bring multiple benefits. I think the simplest benefit is the visual aspect - we create products that are beautiful, and that helps brands differentiate one from the other. 

Leïla: Gloria, how do you see the skinification shift in relation to Haus Labs?

Gloria: I love the fact that our consumers and our community are so much more savvy, and really push brands to elevate from a higher standard of quality, execution, and performance. So it challenges us to push our partners to figure out that delicate balance between artistry, and performance.

Leïla: And what does skinification mean to Capsum?

Sébastien: It is obviously about adding active ingredients to your makeup, but it's also about bringing a new skin feel to makeup. We have achieved this with some brands, making makeup products that have a really nice skin feel, and freshness. They also speak for themselves because they have encapsulated pigments, and as a consumer, you understand very clearly this product is going to give you a makeup effect.

Leïla: Gloria, as head of PD, can you tell us a little more about the challenges in creating makeup that is both artistic and skincare-driven?

Gloria: Lady Gaga is an incredible futurist and visionary and her team has such a high standard of excellence in terms of performance. It’s got to withstand her dancing and performing two hours on stage, and when she takes it off her skin shouldn’t be red or irritated. It's a very fluid approach, it's the art and science synergy.

The Cosmetics IC Take

Haus Labs and Capsum demonstrate how science and technology can be applied beyond performance to elevate the artistry and sensoriality of a product, placing innovation at the heart of product storytelling. A science-centric approach is now an essential strategy for brands to meet consumers’ ever-evolving expectations for sustainability, performance and sensoriality.

Contact the team today for a full summary and transcript of our session with Gloria and Sebastian, and all of the Beauty Talks presented exclusively at MakeUp in Los Angeles, available as one comprehensive report. Our 2024 trend white book, The Age of Thrill, is also available now.

MakeUp in Paris 2023 - Key Innovations From The Show

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This year’s edition of MakeUp in Paris, held at the Carrousel du Louvre on June 14 and 15 2023, provided a typically insightful two days. Exhibitors, spanning the global colour cosmetics sector, showed formulations and packaging that overall emphasised sustainability and technological innovation, promising to propel Beauty into a far more responsible and progressive space. 

Thank you to everyone who stopped by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation booth - whether it was introducing you to the work of the agency or catching up with existing clients and old friends - it was an absolute pleasure. Inbetween hosting our Inspiration Bar we took the opportunity to scout the show for the latest innovations and soak up inspiration from the lively conference schedule. 

From eco-lipstick cases to next-gen bio-blenders and formulas which champion hybridisation and sensoriality read on to discover the agency’s key highlights and takeaways from this year’s event.


Innovation Winners

Day #1 kicked off with the Innovation and Trend (IT) Awards - where a jury of 10 industry professionals honoured the most innovative products and tools being showcased at the event. Here are this year’s winners:

Ticking boxes on sustainability, adaptability and on-the-go functionality, the Multi-Intensity Brush from Texen allows users to create complete makeup looks with a single brush. A rotating mechanism allows users to adjust the length and density of the tuft to accommodate a number of different applications. The brush’s tuft, handle and ferrule can also be customised in terms of shape and material, and the product can also be developed for eyes and lips.

Formulated with 99% natural origin ingredients and exclusively certified natural cosmos raw materials, this injectable powder marries ultra-sensoriality with sustainability. The powders have been developed without the use of microplastics, talc, silicones and my synthetic film-forming agents. The result is a high-touch, high-performance creamy texture that delivers a high-impact shine.

Within the same category, Aircos (Anjac Health & Beauty Group) received a special commendation for their Hypnotic Very Noir compact eyeshadow. Featuring a creamy-powdery texture and an intense, golden-black metallic effect, the shadow.

This highly sensorial blush doubles down on delivering skincare benefits, thanks to the infusion of watermelon pulp and seed oil. Creamy and ultra-blendable, the blush has a delicate watermelon fragrance. The innovative case, designed by Belotti, also features floating pigments and active ingredients inside the base, resembling watermelon seeds. A great example of how to create a playful product packed with functionality. 

Receiving a special mention for technical innovation, Chromavis Fareva for Maya, features a new technology enabling multi-colour heat-cast visuals with high relief and definition down to 1 centimetre. It was presented in a cast texture formulated with 94% natural ingredients, extra slippery, creamy and enveloping, contrasting with the vibrant, deep colours and 3D relief.

The environmental impact of this product is two-fold - the case is 100% aluminum (including the cap and shell) while the refillable mechanism adds a further facet of sustainability. The case itself can be customised with a range of finishes. 

The CIC Take

If you dropped by our booth during the show and would like to continue the conversation, drop us a line today to discuss how we can bring our Inspiration Bar directly to you, stocked with products to your specification!

The next edition of MakeUp in Paris will be held on May 29-30 2024

Pleasure Dosing – The New Beauty Rapture

Photo: People Images

At Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation we have been tracking the beauty-as-empowerment trend, noting the elemental need for products that bring wellness through joy. A quick dopamine hit goes a long way in a post-crisis society, and consumers are discovering new ways in which to access pleasure through makeup and boldly express their individuality. 

 We’ve been following the upsurge in TikTokers creatively articulating a sense of unfiltered joy through bold and colorful looks applied with incredible artistry.  In recent months we have watched nail art grow from a niche into a mainstream form of self-expression, and we have traced the latest revolution of luxury color from understated to exaggerated.

 Consumers are Pleasure Dosing their way to wellness with products that approach the art of beauty as an act of self-expression. Brilliant neons, chameleonic colors, face stickers, nail art and body adornments - are all rising on the consumer radar. Spate data shows an uptick in searches for Glitter Eyeliner (+41,8%), Rhinestone Nails (+26,3%) and Eye Gems ( +38,4%). Bold lip and eye colors are also on the up - searches for Orange Lipstick are +161,6% and Green is up +38,2%. 

 Freed from restrictions there is a deep desire to revel in color and creativity, and use makeup as a tool of transformation. Brands must develop products that deliver an instant shot of happiness, and meet the demand for unrestrained glamor.

We see Pleasure Dosing developing in three distinct pathways: 

●      Dopamine Reality: Superbrights popped at NYFW, where designers played with autumn-winter conventions to deliver collections packed with saturated hues. There was brilliant yellow and citrus orange, Yves Klein blue and hot purple - colors that are resonating with pleasure-seeking consumers. Neon eyeliners, ultra-pigmented candy-colored lipsticks and punchy, one-swipe eye products can deliver the beauty dopamine hit that consumers are craving.

●      Luxury Reinvented: Consumers are creating an aesthetic diversion from the At Home lifestyle of the last two years. Mastering sophisticated looks with new beauty accents, inventive finishes and alluring enhancements, luxury is reinvented for the new “Age of Hedonism”. With searches for “Glam Makeup Look” up +76.3% (1), consumers are opting for saturated lip colours, glitter cut creases, high shimmer complexions and metallic chrome finishes - Studio 54 filtered through a Y2K lens. Features are enhanced and turned up to the max, with volumizing and plumping products that deliver ultimate sophistication and look-at-me moments. And as the masks come off, lips are once again the focus.

●      Festival of Fakery:  Freedom unleashes the beauty peacocks, who are taking the opportunity to express themselves with a maximalist’s approach armed with lavish adornments, including face stickers, body gems and false, embellished nails. This is the armory of pleasurable transformation, enabling consumers to creatively switch up their looks whenever the urge takes hold.  These products are also interesting in the context of an increasingly 2D, digitalized world, reintroducing three-dimensional color, opulence and texture into our daily lives. 

 

Don’t miss the conference/ workshop of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation at the MakeUp in Paris on June 16-17 (to be confirmed), 2022. In this conference, Leila Rochet, founder and Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation, will decode the Pleasure Dosing trend and what it means for the industry, and share examples from the latest international launches. Leila will be joined by Julien Lutz of Spate, the partner company of the agency, who will share the latest market data from the Spate research tool.

Conference of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation with the participation of Spate.

 

Source: (1) Spate - Google Searches in the U.S. Year Over Year ending April 2022