As TikTok’s influence over beauty continues to ascend, luxury brands are adapting viral trends to their house codes, while enshrining the levels of exclusivity and innovation that set them apart. Joining Leïla Rochet to decode the evolution of luxury beauty was Eileen Kim, Head of US Innovation and Research at Chanel for one of Cosmetics IC Beauty Talks hosted in MakeUp in Los Angeles 2024.
Source: Leila Rochet / Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation - MakeUp In Los Angeles 2024 / Eileen Kim
Thanks to their worldwide innovation centers, Chanel's scientific team is challenged to push back its limits and seek to develop new technologies and innovations. Motivated by the different regulations on which they depend in the creation and formulation of their products, particularly in terms of sustainability, but also by the needs and ideas of new generations, Chanel is keen to push their research to an even higher level and believes in the continuous drive to do better.
Leïla Rochet: Can you explain a little bit more about your role at Chanel?
Eileen Kim: Chanel has innovation centers across the world. I have the pleasure of leading the US Innovation and Research Center. Our mission overall is to seek out new technologies and to also push innovation for future skincare and makeup products, worldwide. We also partner with universities, startups, and industry experts, who can help us to seek out new technologies.
Leïla: Chanel is known for its unique texture, exceptional formulation, and very high-quality finish. What are the primary challenges when it comes to reaching those performance levels?
Eileen: We have regulations now that impact the products we create, and the ingredients that we use. This helps us to find new solutions. Another wonderful challenge is the new generation of consumers and their ideas. It’s so important for us to empathize with them, to understand their needs, their values, and what influences what they're going to buy and how they're going to use it. And of course, we have sustainability and CSR - that's a wonderful challenge that is at the heart of innovation today.
Leïla: Could you talk a little about one of your most recent product launches?
Eileen: The 31 launch is a beautiful example because it captures the essence of Chanel. The product packaging was inspired by the iconic staircase at 31 rue Cambon, while the refillable case is a new innovation. The formula itself has been carefully designed with different ingredients, including Gardenia oil that is specific to Chanel, and an active that brings skincare benefits to the lips. The beautiful packaging is a part of Chanel that you can keep, and pass down. It's a really nice example of innovation, legacy, and creation.
Leïla: How do you keep up with the trends and stay ahead of the latest innovations?
Eileen: That's a big challenge! We have a team of scientists who are experts in chemistry, and they go out and seek new technology and envision what this technology can bring. It’s important that we not only look at the beauty industry but at pharma, food, and agriculture… Inspiration can come from anywhere.
Leïla: How do you envision the future? You’ve talked about naturals and sustainability - how do you see that market evolving?
Eileen: I think sustainability regulations are having a really positive impact on our industry. We have to find advanced solutions to create the next generation of products, so sustainability and CSR are really pushing innovation forward. This is causing scientists like us to find new solutions that will be more efficient, better for the environment, better for people. I feel regulations will bring our products to a new level, and we can be proud of that.
We see lots of AI tools. I hope it will advance how we work, how we discover. And then there’s Gen Z and Gen Alpha. I think they're a very interesting generation, and luxury will be a way for them to self-express. I think what the beauty industry has always been, is purposeful. I'm really happy that I am part of that and I'm looking forward to seeing where it goes in the future.
KEY TAKEAWAYS
TikTok should be a core element of your brand strategy as a source of inspiration for future innovation, and increasingly as a retail outlet
Authenticity is key when it comes to social media virality and meaningful engagement
Social media users are interested in products and brands linked to luxury moments, events, and experiences (concerts, red carpets, etc)
Gen Z are ingenious at finding ways to feed their appetite for luxury on a budget (e.g., dupes and ‘repotting’ into luxury brand packaging)
Explore ways of introducing novel luxury gestures into consumers lives - from keepsake packaging to extravagant new applications (e.g., teeth gems, hair makeup)