Seoul - The Retail Creative Hub

Leila Rochet August 9, 2022

All aboard the Seoul Train!

In July we were finally able to resume our Seoul Inspiration Tour - our expert-curated guide to the beauty capital, created in partnership with South Korean retail experts, Latitude37.

We couldn’t have been happier to guide clients through a packed itinerary that covered K-beauty hot spots, pop-ups, cult brands, cool cafes, must-see exhibitions and the trendiest bars. Every single destination was selected by us, along with Latitude 37, with the sole aim to fire inspiration.

Below, is just a small taster of the type of retail hot spots you can expect from a week’s itinerary in the K-beauty capital.

1/ Dior Pop-Up - Luxury Redefined

location: 7, Yeonmujang 5-gil, Seongsu-dong

product: RTW, accessories, cafe

dates: Until 2025

dior.com

Redefining the very idea of a pop-up, Dior goes BIG for Seoul, with a three-year plan to bring experiential luxury retail to the city’s trendy Seongsu-dong district. The facade of the vast 1,700 sqm building features a metal mesh structure with a glass roof, recalling the company’s newly renovated headquarters at 30 Avenue Montaigne. The multi-storey boutique also features a cafe, where visitors can sup in front of a large digital screen that reproduces a trompe l’oeil replica of the gardens of Christian Dior’s childhood home in Granville, Normandy.

2/ Ader Space 3.0 - Sci-fi leap into the future

Ader Space - Photo by Latitude 37 for Cosmetics IC

location: 518-11 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu

product: contemporary streetwear, accessories , cafe

adererror.com

Known for bold and ultra-creative in-store experiences and conceptual fashions, Ader’s latest store, in the Sinsa-dong area of Gangnam district, takes a sci-fi leap into the future of multi-reality store design. Part retail store, part art gallery, Ader Error 3.0 is dedicated to the brand’s progressive vision and challenges customers to interact with their surroundings. A changing room can double as a noraebang singing room, another opens to a room with a bunk bed, fixtures and fittings move on demand, and to reach the cafe, visitors have to walk through a hotel-like hallway.

3/ Uncommon - Cashless redesigned

Credit: Uncommon store - Photo Yongjoon Choi

location: The Hyundai Seoul, 108 Yeoui-daero, Sixth Floor

product: convenience store

@uncommonstore_official

The ultimate convenience store- cashless, staffless and all app-controlled, Uncommon comes from local architecture and design studio Archi@Mosphere. Before entering the store, consumers download an app, and then scan their phones at the entrance. They can then shop snacks, drinks, fresh fruits and a selection of toiletries with the app taking control of all payments. The store interior is a mash-up of minimalist futurism with retro signage.

Our Inspiration Tours

We tailor every Inspiration Tour to our client’s exacting needs, so drop us a line today to take the next step on your inspiration journey.

Every tour is guided and comes with a complete book with description, addresses and inspiration seeds.

US X FR: Lip and Eye Product Trends

CATRIN DAVIES July 4, 2022

Photo Credit - Dominik Kielbasa via Unsplash

At the recent MakeUp in Paris event, Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer, was joined by Spate’s Analytical Lead, Julien Lutz, to decode the latest search data coming out of the US and France. Based on analysis of over 20 billion beauty-related search signals, Spate, the agency’s Partner Agency, decipher the rising trends and consumer behaviors emerging from the two Beauty powerhouses.

Read on to discover the major differences between US and French consumers when it comes to searches for lip and eye makeup products.

EYE MAKEUP - CREATIVITY ON THE RISE

In the US, products with a creative arc are coming out on top; with artistic eyeliner and eyeshadow experiencing a search volume of +1.2M. In comparison, French consumers are engaging with trends that focus on making the lashes pop; searches for fake eyelashes are at 291.2K, mascara at 103.8K and eyeliner at 9.8K. Products that define and enhance the eye and lashes dominate the French top ten, and include eyebrow tint (47.9K), eyelash glue (23.4K) and eyebrow definer (15.1K).

However, data shows that French consumers have a growing interest in creative eye looks; eye glitter is the top growing makeup product (+57.7%), followed by liquid eyeliner (+36.2%). ‘Waterproof’ is a trending category in both the US and France, where searches for waterproof eyeliner are at 29.7%, and US consumer searches for waterproof eyeshadow are +658.9%. Also breaking through in the US are searches for eye gloss at +120.4% and eyebrow stencil at +115.9%.

Creative expression continues to dominate US tastes when it comes to eye color too; silver (+91.8%), taupe (+72.8%) and coral (+70.6%) are the top trending colors, while French consumers are more interested in the classics, with white (+20.7%), brown (+14.8%) and plum (+5.7%) making the top three. The top trending eye makeup products coming out of the US are Urban Decay’s Naked Eyeshadow Palette with +66.9K average monthly searches, followed by GrandeLASH MD Lash Enhancing Serum (+36K) and NYX’s Micro Brow Pencil(+12.4K). In France, as socialization returns, consumers are searching for longwear and waterproof eye products; Essence Mascara (+2.1K), Maybelline Great Lash Waterproof Mascara (+488) and MAC Cosmetics Brushstroke 24-HR Liner (+301) are the top trending eye makeup products.

LIP MAKEUP - RED, LIP ENHANCEMENT & COLOR

Clinique - Almost Lipstick Black Honey - Source Facebook

US and French consumers are aligned in their love for lipstick, especially red lipstick. US consumer searches for red lipstick are at 77.9K, while in France it is the second most-searched-for lip product overall, with a search volume of 59.3K. Search analysis shows French consumer interest in lip enhancing products - lip plumping gloss is the most-searched-for product at +108%, followed by lip plumper (+16.2%) and lip gloss (+0.3%). US search data highlights an interest in more creative lip play; searches for lip shimmer is at +461.9%, lipstick palette at +259% and sheer lipstick is at +183.8%.

The top lipstick colors by growth coming out of the US are plum (+306.8%), chocolate (+162.3%) and orange (+143%). The classics reign in France, with consumers increasingly searching for coral (+64.9%), maroon (+48.6%) and pink (+44.6%). Lip products with staying power are trending with US consumers; Clinique’s Pop Lip Color + Primer and Maybelline’s Super Stay Matte Ink Liquid Lipstick are at +47.k and 14.22K average monthly searches, respectively. The top trending product by search growth in the US is Clinique’s Almost Lipstick, at +245.9K average monthly searches. The top trending lip makeup products amongst French consumers are NYX's Butter Gloss at +515, closely followed by Guerlain Lipstick at +513, and NYX’s Soft Matte Lip Cream at +319.

CIC TAKE

The US still leads the way for creative and audacious expressions, but France is rapidly following suit.
With rising inflation, mass-market brands that demonstrate creativity and affordability will draw attention, and luxury brands will need to reinforce value-driven innovations to justify price.
Expect an increasing thirst for creative independence in the future, with an impact on color, application and texture.

To download the full report from Spate, just click on the link.

#insights. Beauty & Biodiversity: consumer's awareness is on the rise

Guest User July 26, 2018

On June 19, 2018, the UEBT* (Union for Ethical BioTrade) celebrated the 10th year of annual research dedicated to biodiversity awareness and sourcing with respect. Good news: according to their latest numbers, consumers’ awareness towards sustainability is on the rise.

Led in over 16 different countries since 2009 and commissioned by the UEBT, the results of the Biodiversity Barometer have contribute to have contributed to raise awareness amongst companies and organizations all around the world on the importance of biodiversity in our industries. The results of the latest 2018 Biodiversity Barometer (survey in 5 countries, 5000 consumers) speak for themselves: awareness and understanding of biodiversity are globally growing. An increase in the understanding of biodiversity over the past 10 years has been important in all countries. More significantly, consumers expect transparency, proofs and concrete actions from brands are clearly expected by a consumer that is more conscious than ever. Moreover, a massive 80% of consumers feel that "biodiversity conservation is important for their personal well-being", with a strong notion of transmission for generations to come (85%).

Moreover, respecting biodiversity is now fundamentally connected to personal well-being with a massive 80% of consumers feeling that "biodiversity conservation is important for their personal well-being" , with a strong notion of transmission for generations to come (85%).

When Personal Involvement Is at Stake

Protecting biodiversity has become important for consumers as 80% of those surveyed say "it is important for them to personally contribute to conserving biodiversity". Protecting biodiversity has thus become a personal quest as the awareness of this mainstream subject has increased since 2009 with the highest increase occurring among youth (+ 19 points) and among lower earners (+ 13 points).

A Key Insight: the "Human Factor"

In 2009, our blog, Cosmeticseeds, (French version) underlined the importance of protecting biodiversity, "a diversity of fauna, flora and overall wild life that makes the rich complexity of our ecosystems". The fragile eco-system that needs to be protected from the excesses of our society. Human activities endanger the complex balance – but not only.

What’s at stake here? On one hand, a respectful sourcing from the industry who needs to access ressources without damaging the environment. On the other hand, a mindful sourcing of human "know-hows", which implies respecting local workers as well as their traditional knowledge and expertise. "Developing countries", rich in biodiversity and traditional knowledge, face this major twofold issue.

"Nature inspires Cosmetics thanks to its hedonism", says Leïla Rochet. "But paradoxically, Nature’s ressources are finite. Protecting nature and respecting communities involved with biodiversity are now more and more at the center of consumers’ preoccupations and brands need to get more ethically involved."

Words Mean Action: The "Walk the Talk" Factor

In our contemporary society, consumers are informed and conscious of the damage done to the environment. Empowered by digital tools and social conversations, consumers show unprecedented expectations towards brands. Educated with tools to detect "green washing" techniques, consumers expect actions that matter more than words. Brands are experiencing a trust crisis, especially in the area of respectful sourcing. The Biodiversity Barometer shows that only 37% of respondents think that companies pay attention to respectful sourcing, dropping to 25% in France. Today, brands should focus on building trust as consumers expect more transparency and authenticity.

With internet access at the palm of their hands, consumers can quickly check the brand’s credibility and love to engage with brands that they trust to "do good" . To become a "good" brand, they must behave in such ways that convinces consumers, beyond just words, and through actions. Meaning ethically, no harm is done to animals (the new "cruelty-free" or "vegan" labels) and respecting the humans involved (fair wages, dignified working conditions, gender equality in the workplace etc.) in a sustainable way and transparent way (origin of ingredients, fair wages, etc.).

A New Collective Humanization: The "Me to We" Factor

This new "me to we", as coined by Anne Bahr Thompson, author of DO GOOD and one of the keynote speaker at the June 19 Conference, is a transition towards an aware consumer, eager to find brands which can improve both the world and global living conditions. " Customers expect brands to truly care about them, their values, and the world at large. People want to see companies engage in fair employment practices, social responsibility, and charitable giving. In addition, they want companies to advocate on their behalf and make them feel that they are part of a larger community or grander mission," explained Anne Bahr Thompson at the UEBT conference.

The "me to we" doesn’t include sustainability only, but overall wellbeing: 74% of those surveyed say they feel good about buying products that respect people and biodiversity, and 79% feel that companies have a moral obligation to assure that they have a positive impact on people and biodiversity. Finally, a massive 57% say they buy products from companies that respect biodiversity and people.

Presentation of the UEBT Barometer by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency

Challenges for Brands, but also Opportunities

Needless to say, the Beauty industry now has to address these upcoming challenges, but this is also the main opportunity for brands to go beyond a natural positioning and become actors of change. Social media provides a unique opportunity for brands to engage with a more involved and conscious consumer and share their progress in an authentic and transparent way.

The rise of "niche brand" who only 'do good'; as highlighted by the Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation agency in its new trend book Freedom Beauty – Inspiration From the USA, might also undermine the position of Legacy brands who need to stay up to date by improving their status on sustainability.

Partners of the UEBT since 2009, Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation is proud to have worked with the UEBT on the 2018 Biodiversity Barometer’s website conception, interpretation and creation.

Want to know more? Contact the agency

Discover their latest trend book Freedom Beauty – Inspiration From the USA

*UEBT (Union For Ethical BioTrade) is a non-profit association that promotes sourcing with respect. They support and verify companies’ commitments to innovation and sourcing that contribute to a world in which people and biodiversity thrive.

Their website: www.uebt.org