White Book 2024: The Age of Thrill

Death to Stock - Photo by Fanette Guilloud

As technology and science become integral facets of our always-evolving lifestyles, a growing demand emerges for elevated and indulgent experiences.  Our latest White Book explores The Age of Thrill, an era energized by radical innovations that will deliver extraordinary sensations and take performance levels to extreme new heights.

In an era marked by uncertainties and polycrisis, there is a growing demand for emotionally compelling and exhilarating physical experiences, especially with our ever-evolving lifestyles. Consumers are now invigorated by groundbreaking innovations that offer extra-ordinary sensations while elevating performance to unprecedented levels.” Leila Rochet, Chief Inspiration Officer of Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation.

The agency has identified the following five trends for 2024 and beyond, which represent the need for brands to meet heightened expectations around performance, creativity, and sustainability. 

1/ HIGHER FUTURE: The transformative impact of science-centric approaches 

In the future, all experiences will be hybrid, and product innovation will be committed to maximizing performance. New technologies and scientific discoveries, forefronted by Artificial Intelligence, will transform consumers' expectations, taking results-focused beauty to even higher levels. 

  • AI will revolutionize retail experiences and services. In the summer of 2023, Ulta Beauty partnered with Haut AI to bring personalized skincare diagnostics to the in-store experience. Haut AI has also developed SkinGPT - a skincare platform that uses generative AI to visually simulate the effects of products over time, based on a combination of a personalized quiz, uploaded images, and clinical data.

  • AI-powered bots will become a familiar feature outside of the professional salon space, meeting the demand for faster and budget-friendly options. Offering quick and affordable nail polish applications ($10) the mani-bot Clockwork is growing its presence across the US with a strategic focus on residential complexes and airports.

  • In beauty, a mindset rooted in science and focused on solutions is making waves and is being embraced by consumers driven by tangible outcomes. Amorepacific’s latest innovation, the Lipcure Beam (CES Innovation Award 2024 – Korea) employs precision sensor and diagnostic technology to deliver next-level care.  The device’s cap diagnoses the moisture levels and condition of the lips, while a brush-like applicator emits customized visible light to aid in lip care.

2/ TRANSIENT UTOPIA: Revisiting the codes of lifestyle

Beauty adapts to always-on-the-move lifestyles, as the thirst for leisure and the rising nomad economy drive innovation. The travel surge calls for refreshed routines and simpler, smarter formats that reimagine the practical nature of makeup. 

  • At PFW SS24, (September 2023 - France) Miu Miu presented a collection inspired by the future omni-traveler. Workwear was mixed with beachwear, sportswear was paired with eveningwear, as the brand played with the concept of “prototypical fashion”, reflecting the growing eclecticism of people’s daily lives. 

  • Climatic changes will continue to impact choices and behaviors, calling for new cooling sensations and soothing textures. Like those offered by the After Sun Gel from cult suncare brand Vacation (April 2023), which is primed to cool and soothe the skin after sun exposure.

  • Demand for intelligent SPF hybrids will rise as daily defense becomes central to the preparation for a better future. Combining a cooling sensation with SPF 50+, the TIRTIR Off The Sun Air Mousse SPF 50+ (April 2023 - Korea) features 2% Zero-Cooling Complex which is proven to reduce skin temperature by -4.8 degrees Celsius.

3/EXTRA-VAGANCE: Bringing the extraordinary into the everyday

Consumers are turning to lavish indulgences and grandiose gestures as a riposte to the daily grind of the recession. A new cohort of thrill-seekers are maxing out on experiences and eschewing convention to party through the permacrisis, exemplified by the monumental economic success of Taylor Swift’s Eras Tour.

  • Every aspect of Beyonce’s wardrobe and makeup for her Renaissance tour was analyzed and dissected on social media (#renaissancetour has garnered 3.9B views on TikTok), triggering a flurry of copycat looks and giving wings to the concept of #concertmakeup.

  • Celebratory looks are rising, and consumers are looking to their favorite idols for inspiration on how to introduce lavish gestures into their every day. In Korea, crystal nose-bridge embellishments have become a new way to wear face gems, thanks to fans spotting them on K-pop idols Jennie and Rosé from Blackpink during their Coachella performance. The look went viral on social media, with fans rushing to recreate the distinctive look.

  • Unseen Beauty (UK) is one brand that is driven to deliver extraordinary experiences, bringing unexpectedly luxe finishes to makeup. The  SPECTRA Eye Colour contains glass microspheres, half-coated with aluminum to transform the product into a bright, reflective silver under a phone camera's flash. Making it the ideal accompaniment to a night out.

4/ SYMBIOTIC EDEN: Adapting for a better future

Value is being rapidly redefined by consumers who are demanding greater environmental responsibility, driving brands to consider the future implications of products. As the climate crisis continues to unfold, innovation will come to the foreground of beauty as consumers look for solutions to increasingly prominent issues caused by environmental deterioration. 

  • Waste solutions will continue to rise, and will be encircled into new retail concepts. Greez (February 2023 - France) is a resale platform for unsold cosmetics, while This is Beauty (June 2023 – US) is an online retailer that works with global brands to keep products with damaged packaging away from landfill.

  • The acceleration of vertical farming (employed to great success by Ulé and Caudalie), opens up new territories of tech-driven sustainable sourcing. German brand Gezeiten worked with marine biologists and biotechnologists to study over a hundred compounds to develop Earth Marine CellTech Complex® - a combination of patented marine extracts and a mineral-rich submarine water concentrate. The complex is at the core of its new Face Cream (April 2023), which is packed with active biotech ingredients.

  • Plastic-free solutions will continue to rise with packaging companies like Verity (US) proposing metal as a solution for beauty, or Notpla (UK) which is exploring the potential of regenerative packaging(UK).

5/ EXPANDED CARE: Emotional-bonding beauty

As stress levels continue to rise in this period of permacrisis (61% of Americans say their stress is at an all-time high, while 89% of Chinese adults are actively seeking ways to reduce stress), emotional-bonding becomes essential in daily behavior.

  • In beauty, this manifests in the rise of comfort-boosting textures and new psychodermatalogical narratives, which are propelled by TikTok. The issue of skin sensitivity and barrier protection presents a new opportunity for brands to innovate from the perspective of emotional care.  The success of Rare Beauty (expected to exceed $300 million in sales in 2023 according to Fast Company), opens the path to more emotion-infused beauty products. 

  • Circadian beauty will continue to flourish as consumers look to align their well-being goals with their skincare ambitions. Complimentary skincare and supplement brand You’re Looking Well (UK)  has developed the Night Pill & Night Cream (August 2023) to help users optimize their sleep. Infused with ingredients to prepare the body for rest and help the skin recover, the two products work in tandem with the skin’s circadian rhythm to deliver a well-rested glow and a clear mind.

  • Clariant has been exploring the potential of neurocosmetics primed to tackle the effects of lack of sunlight exposure on the mood, and the skin.  In a presentation titled, "An Innovative Light-biomimetic Solution Stimulating Feel-good Hormones and Cognitive Relaxation to Tackle Lack of Sunlight Exposure and Dull Skin" Mathilde Frechet of Clariant outlined how the butterfly plants rich tormentic acid content enhances cognitive relaxation and skin complexion by amplifying the vitamin D pathway and hormonal production. 

The Cosmetics IC Take

This culture of thrill-seeking will impact our vision of beauty, awakening a more pluriversal mindset and establishing next-level expectations, propelling beauty in a Protopian trajectory.

For the full version of our White Book, or for more information on any of our innovation and forecasting services, drop us a line today.